Analysis, modelling and design of a groin as coastal protection structure at Lido di Dante, Ravenna

An analysis and a subsequent solution is here presented. This document is about a groin design able to contrast the erosion actions given by waves in Lido di Dante. Advantages will be visible also for Fiumi Uniti's inlet, in the north side of the shoreline. Beach future progression and growth will be subjected to monitoring actions in the years after groin construction. The resulting effects of the design will have a positive impact not only on the local fauna and environment, but also, a naturalistic appeal will increase making new type of tourists coming not only for recreational purposes. The design phase is focused on possible design alternatives and their features. Particular interest is given to scouring phenomena all around the groin after its construction. Groin effects will impact not only on its south side, instead they will cause an intense erosion process on the downdrift front. Here, many fishing hut would be in danger, thus a beach revetment structure is needed to avoid any future criticality. In addiction, a numerical model based on a generalized shoreline change numerical model, also known as GENESIS, has been applied to the study area in order to perform a simplistic analysis of the shoreline and its future morphology. Critical zones are visible in proximity of the Fiumi Uniti's river inlet, where currents from the sea and the river itself start the erosion process that is affecting Lido di Dante since mid '80s, or even before. The model is affected by several assumptions that make results not to be interpreted as a real future trend of the shore. Instead the model allows the user to have a more clear view about critical processes induced by monochromatic inputed waves. In conclusion, the thesis introduce a wide analysis on a complex erosion process that is affecting many shoreline nowadays. A groin design is seen as a hard solution it is considered to be the only means able to decrease the rate of erosion.

Effects of artificial defences and flooding on coastal habitats and assemblages

Since large stretches of European coasts are already retreating and projected scenarios are worsening, many artificial structures, such as breakwaters and seawalls, are built as tool against coastal erosion. However artificial structures produce widespread changes that alter the coastal zones and affect the biological communities. My doctoral thesis analyses the consequences of different options for coastal protection, namely hard engineering ‘artificial defences’ (i.e. impact of human-made structures) and ‘no-defence’ (i.e. impact of seawater inundation). I investigated two new aspects of the potential impact of coastal defences. The first was the effect of artificial hard substrates on the fish communities structure. In particular I was interested to test if the differences among breakwaters and natural rocky reef would change depending on the nature of the surrounding habitat of the artificial structure (prevalent sandy rather than rocky). The second was the effect on the native natural sandy habitats of the organic detritus derived from hard-bottom species (green algae and mussels) detached from breakwaters. Furthermore, I investigated the ecological implication of the “no-defend” option, which allow the inundation of coastal habitats. The focus of this study was the potential effect of seawater intrusion on the degradation process of marine, salt-marsh and terrestrial detritus, including changes on the breakdown rates and the associated macrofauna. The PhD research was conducted in three areas along European coasts: North Adriatic sea, Sicilian coast and South-West England where different habitats (coastal, estuarine), biological communities (soft-bottom macro-benthos; rocky-coastal fishes; estuarine macro-invertebrates) and processes (organic enrichment; assemblage structure; leaf-litter breakdown) were analyzed. The research was carried out through manipulative and descriptive field-experiments in which specific hypothesis were tested by univariate and multivariate analyses.

Use of a scrapped ship as a floating breakwater for shore protection

The purpose of this research is to assess the effectiveness of a ship used as a detached floating breakwater for coastal protection and forming salients of sand or tombolos. Floating breakwaters have been extensively used as port or coastal protection structures and display advantages in terms of construction and ecology, amongst others. However, the greatest problem these structures present is the limited range of wave heights and periods for which they are really effective. Furthermore, ships may be considered as floating structures which, used as breakwaters, would keep the advantages of floating breakwaters and would increase their range of applicability. The possibility of using ships at the conclusion of their useful life for this purpose would also involve greater economic and environmental advantages. Tests were carried out to assess the ship’s effectiveness as a detached floating breakwater using a scaled down physical model to determine the vessel’s transmission coefficient (Kt) as to regular waves with significant periods of 5 sec to 12 sec and significant wave heights of 1.5 m to 4 m at depths from 20 m to 35 m. The ship proves effective for waves up to 4 m significant height and significant periods up to 9 sec. Hanson and Kraus and Pilarzyk’s analytical models, which take transmission coefficients into account, were used to analyse the shore’s response to the breakwater protection. The results obtained show that salients form for waves with periods between 6 sec and 9 sec. It is also concluded that the depths tested are far different from the more usual shallow water involved in constructing detached breakwaters and the shore’s response is therefore scarce.

Coastal modelling studies for forecasting and remediation solutions

The coastal area along the Emilia-Romagna (ER), in the Italian side of the northern Adriatic Sea, is considered to implement an unstructured numerical ocean model with the aim to develop innovative tools for the coastal management and a forecasting system for the storm surge risk reduction. The Adriatic Sea has been the focus of several studies because of its peculiar dynamics driven by many forcings acting at basin and local scales. The ER coast is particularly exposed to storm surge events. In particular conditions, winds, tides and seicehs may combine and contribute to the flooding of the coastal area. The global sea level rise expected in the next decades will increase even more the hazard along the ER and Adriatic coast. Reliable Adriatic and Mediterranean scale numerical ocean models are now available to allow the dynamical downscaling of very high-resolution models in limited coastal areas. In this work the numerical ocean model SHYFEM is implemented in the Goro lagoon (named GOLFEM) and along the ER coast (ShyfER) to test innovative solutions against sea related coastal hazards. GOLFEM was succesfully applied to analyze the Goro lagoon dynamics and to assess the dynamical effects of human interventions through the analysis of what-if scenarios. The assessment of storm surge hazard in the Goro lagoon was carried out through the development of an ensemble storm surge forecasting system with GOLFEM using forcing from different operational meteorological and ocean models showing the fundamental importance of the boundary conditions. The ShyfER domain is used to investigate innovative solutions against storm surge related hazard along the ER coast. The seagrass is assessed as a nature-based solution (NBS) for coastal protection under present and future climate conditions. The results show negligible effects on sea level but sensible effects in reducing bottom current velocity.

Feasibility study on multifunctional artificial reefs for the Azores

Tese de Doutoramento, Geografia (Ordenamento do Território), 25 de Novembro de 2013, Universidade dos Açores.

Trazas de metales en agua, sedimento y organismos bentónicos en bancos naturales de las Regiones Tacna y Moquegua

En septiembre del 2009 se evaluó el contenido de trazas de metales en los bancos naturales de Meca-Lozas (Tacna), Tancona y Punta Coles (Moquegua), en un ámbito donde la temperatura fue inferior al patrón estacional y en presencia de Aguas Costeras Frías en toda la columna de agua. Las trazas de cobre, plomo y cadmio contenidos en agua de los tres bancos naturales, no superaron los Estándares de Calidad Ambiental para Conservación del Ambiente Acuático (Grupo 4). Las trazas de cobre, plomo, cadmio y cinc para sedimentos, no superó al Probable Nivel de Efecto estipulado en la Tabla de Protección Costera de los EE UU, a excepción del cobre que superó el estándar en una estación (136,99 μg/g) de Meca-Las Lozas. Sólo las concentraciones traza de cobre en los tres bancos naturales y en los cuerpos eviscerados de caracol negro (Thaisella chocolata), lapa (Fissurella sp.), chanque (Concholepas concholepas) y choro (Aulacomya atra) superaron el límite máximo permisible internacional estipulado por la FAO, siendo la mayor concentración de 1782,27 μg/g en la especie Fissurella sp. muestreada en Meca-Lozas, por lo que se concluye que las especies que bioacumulan más trazas de cobre son Fissurella sp., Thaisella chocolata, Concholepas concholepas y Aulacomya atra.

Calidad ambiental de las bahías Samanco y Tortuga, Áncash, Perú: 2010-2011

Se efectuaron estudios en junio y octubre-noviembre 2010 y en julio y noviembre-diciembre 2011. Se hicieron muestreos por mar para determinar parámetros físicos, químicos y microbiológicos, empleando protocolos y metodologías nacionales e internacionales (USEPA, APHA). En Samanco el oxígeno disuelto varió entre 7,00 y 8,20 mg/L; en Tortuga de 6,46 a 7,42 mg/L. Los sólidos suspendidos totales en Samanco fueron 37,00 mg/L y en Tortuga 33,28 mg/L; aceites y grasa fueron >1,00 mg/L superando los Estándares Nacionales de Calidad Ambiental (ECA) categoría 4. Los valores de demanda bioquímica de oxígeno (DBO5) fueron <10,00 mg/L. Las concentraciones de cadmio (4,21 μg/g) y plomo (30,24 μg/g) en sedimento no sobrepasaron los valores de Protección Costera y Restauración (USA). Se detectó que la bahía Samanco presenta mayor grado de impacto ambiental que la bahía Tortuga.

Triterpenoids as Biomarkers of Mangrove Organic Matter in Cochin Estuarine System

This thesis entitled triterpenoids as biomarkers of mangrove organic matter in cochin estuarine system.Mangrove forests, known as rainforests of the sea are one of the most important coastal ecosystems in the world in terms of primary production and coastal protection.Estuaries, the important areas of world’s coastal zones link the carbon cycle of the oceans to the continents.Three mangrove ecosystems and three estuarine stations around Cochin region, southwest coast of India were selected for the present study. The thesis is divided into five chapters. Chapter 1 is the Introduction and it deals with the aim and scope of the present study. Chapter 2 is Materials and Methods. This chapter deals with the nature and general geographical features of the study area. It also contains the details of the sampling and analytical methodology.the present study. Chapter 3 is Geochemistry and it includes the seasonal and spatial variations of the geochemical parameters in the surface sediments.Chapter 4 is Biochemical Composition. It covers the biochemical composition of organic matter in the surface sediments to examine the quality and quantity of organic matter.Chapter 5, Triterpenoid Biomarkers in Sediments, characterize the organic matter in the sediments of the mangrove and estuarine ecosystems under study, to assess the possible sources with the help of triterpenoid biomarkers along with other lipid biomarkers.

An Integrated Assessment of changes in the thermohaline circulation

This paper discusses the risks of a shutdown of the thermohaline circulation (THC) for the climate system, for ecosystems in and around the North Atlantic as well as for fisheries and agriculture by way of an Integrated Assessment. The climate model simulations are based on greenhouse gas scenarios for the 21st century and beyond. A shutdown of the THC, complete by 2150, is triggered if increased freshwater input from inland ice melt or enhanced runoff is assumed. The shutdown retards the greenhouse gas-induced atmospheric warming trend in the Northern Hemisphere, but does not lead to a persistent net cooling. Due to the simulated THC shutdown the sea level at the North Atlantic shores rises by up to 80 cm by 2150, in addition to the global sea level rise. This could potentially be a serious impact that requires expensive coastal protection measures. A reduction of marine net primary productivity is associated with the impacts of warming rather than a THC shutdown. Regional shifts in the currents in the Nordic Seas could strongly deteriorate survival chances for cod larvae and juveniles. This could lead to cod fisheries becoming unprofitable by the end of the 21st century. While regional socioeconomic impacts might be large, damages would be probably small in relation to the respective gross national products. Terrestrial ecosystem productivity is affected much more by the fertilization from the increasing CO2 concentration than by a THC shutdown. In addition, the level of warming in the 22nd to 24th century favours crop production in northern Europe a lot, no matter whether the THC shuts down or not. CO2 emissions corridors aimed at limiting the risk of a THC breakdown to 10% or less are narrow, requiring departure from business-as-usual in the next few decades. The uncertainty about THC risks is still high. This is seen in model analyses as well as in the experts’ views that were elicited. The overview of results presented here is the outcome of the Integrated Assessment project INTEGRATION.

Performance Optimization of a Floating Breakwater Model Using SPH Method, with a Practical Application

Máster en Oceanografía

Hydrodynamic induced by an array of wave energy converters. Experimental and numerical analysis

The thesis analyses the hydrodynamic induced by an array of Wave energy Converters (WECs), under an experimental and numerical point of view. WECs can be considered an innovative solution able to contribute to the green energy supply and –at the same time– to protect the rear coastal area under marine spatial planning considerations. This research activity essentially rises due to this combined concept. The WEC under exam is a floating device belonging to the Wave Activated Bodies (WAB) class. Experimental data were performed at Aalborg University in different scales and layouts, and the performance of the models was analysed under a variety of irregular wave attacks. The numerical simulations performed with the codes MIKE 21 BW and ANSYS-AQWA. Experimental results were also used to calibrate the numerical parameters and/or to directly been compared to numerical results, in order to extend the experimental database. Results of the research activity are summarized in terms of device performance and guidelines for a future wave farm installation. The device length should be “tuned” based on the local climate conditions. The wave transmission behind the devices is pretty high, suggesting that the tested layout should be considered as a module of a wave farm installation. Indications on the minimum inter-distance among the devices are provided. Furthermore, a CALM mooring system leads to lower wave transmission and also larger power production than a spread mooring. The two numerical codes have different potentialities. The hydrodynamics around single and multiple devices is obtained with MIKE 21 BW, while wave loads and motions for a single moored device are derived from ANSYS-AQWA. Combining the experimental and numerical it is suggested –for both coastal protection and energy production– to adopt a staggered layout, which will maximise the devices density and minimize the marine space required for the installation.

Future storm surge impacts on insurable losses for the North Sea region

The influence of climate change on storm surges including increased mean sea level change and the associated insurable losses are assessed for the North Sea basin. In doing so, the newly developed approach couples a dynamical storm surge model with a loss model. The key element of the approach is the generation of a probabilistic storm surge event set. Together with parametrizations of the inland propagation and the coastal protection failure probability this enables the estimation of annual expected losses. The sensitivity to the parametrizations is rather weak except when the assumption of high level of increased mean sea level change is made. Applying this approach to future scenarios shows a substantial increase of insurable losses with respect to the present day. Superimposing different mean sea level changes shows a nonlinear behavior at the country level, as the future storm surge changes are higher for Germany and Denmark. Thus, the study exhibits the necessity to assess the socio-economic impacts of coastal floods by combining the expected sea level rise with storm surge projections.

Mangrove cover in the Red Sea (1972-2013)

Across the Earth, mangroves play an important role in coastal protection, both as nurseries and carbon sinks. However, due to various human and environmental impacts, the coverage of mangroves is declining on a global scale. The Red Sea is in the northern-most area of the distribution range of mangroves. Little is known about the surface covered by mangroves at this northern limit or about the changes experienced by Red Sea mangroves. We sought to study changes in the coverage of Red Sea mangroves by using multi-temporal Landsat data (1972, 2000 and 2013). Interestingly, our results show that there has been no decline in mangrove stands in the Red Sea but rather a slight increase. The area covered by mangroves is about 69 km**2 along the African shore and 51 km**2 along the Arabian Peninsula shore. From 1972 to 2013, the area covered by mangroves increased by about 0.29%/y. We conclude that the trend exhibited by Red Sea mangroves departs from the general global decline of mangroves. Along the Red Sea, mangroves expanded by 12% over the 41 years from 1972 to 2013. Losses to Red Sea mangroves, mostly due to coastal development, have been compensated by afforestation projects.

Wave height (regular and irregular waves) reduction in 2m water depth over a 40-m-long salt marsh test section in a large scale laboratory flume

Coastal communities around the world face increasing risk from flooding as a result of rising sea level, increasing storminess, and land subsidence. Salt marshes can act as natural buffer zones, providing protection from waves during storms. However, the effectiveness of marshes in protecting the coastline during extreme events when water levels and waves are highest is poorly understood. Here, we experimentally assess wave dissipation under storm surge conditions in a 300-m-long wave flume that contains a transplanted section of natural salt marsh. We find that the presence of marsh vegetation causes considerable wave attenuation, even when water levels and waves are high. From a comparison with experiments without vegetation, we estimate that up to 60% of observed wave reduction is attributed to vegetation. We also find that although waves progressively flatten and break vegetation stems and thereby reduce dissipation, the marsh substrate remained remarkably stable and resistant to surface erosion under all conditions.The effectiveness of storm wave dissipation and the resilience of tidal marshes even at extreme conditions suggest that salt marsh ecosystems can be a valuable component of coastal protection schemes.