Uses of airborne scanning laser altimetry for river flood modelling and coastal geomorphology

Two ongoing projects at ESSC that involve the development of new techniques for extracting information from airborne LiDAR data and combining this information with environmental models will be discussed. The first project in conjunction with Bristol University is aiming to improve 2-D river flood flow models by using remote sensing to provide distributed data for model calibration and validation. Airborne LiDAR can provide such models with a dense and accurate floodplain topography together with vegetation heights for parameterisation of model friction. The vegetation height data can be used to specify a friction factor at each node of a model’s finite element mesh. A LiDAR range image segmenter has been developed which converts a LiDAR image into separate raster maps of surface topography and vegetation height for use in the model. Satellite and airborne SAR data have been used to measure flood extent remotely in order to validate the modelled flood extent. Methods have also been developed for improving the models by decomposing the model’s finite element mesh to reflect floodplain features such as hedges and trees having different frictional properties to their surroundings. Originally developed for rural floodplains, the segmenter is currently being extended to provide DEMs and friction parameter maps for urban floods, by fusing the LiDAR data with digital map data. The second project is concerned with the extraction of tidal channel networks from LiDAR. These networks are important features of the inter-tidal zone, and play a key role in tidal propagation and in the evolution of salt-marshes and tidal flats. The study of their morphology is currently an active area of research, and a number of theories related to networks have been developed which require validation using dense and extensive observations of network forms and cross-sections. The conventional method of measuring networks is cumbersome and subjective, involving manual digitisation of aerial photographs in conjunction with field measurement of channel depths and widths for selected parts of the network. A semi-automatic technique has been developed to extract networks from LiDAR data of the inter-tidal zone. A multi-level knowledge-based approach has been implemented, whereby low level algorithms first extract channel fragments based mainly on image properties then a high level processing stage improves the network using domain knowledge. The approach adopted at low level uses multi-scale edge detection to detect channel edges, then associates adjacent anti-parallel edges together to form channels. The higher level processing includes a channel repair mechanism.

Coastal geomorphology, processes and erosion at the tourist destination of Ferryland, Newfoundland and Labrador

The community of Ferryland is located on the southeastern coast of the Avalon Peninsula. The town traditionally relied on a fishing-based economy until the collapse of the fishery in the early 1990s. The present economy emphasizes sustainable development in the tourism sector with focus on archaeology, geotourism and other recreational uses. This paper discusses coastal erosion and impacts on sites and infrastructure using methods including: local knowledge, Real Time Kinematic (RTK) surveying and other survey techniques, seawater level measurement, meteorological data from a locally-installed station, custom-made drifter tube buoys, photography, HD video, and investigation using various modes of transport including inflatable boat. The major findings of the study include that the residents and stakeholders are genuinely interested in and knowledgeable of coastal erosion. The causes of coastal erosion include: large waves, surge, longshore currents, harbour oscillations, mass wasting, and location of infrastructure causing alterations of these processes. Freeze-thaw Cycles (FTC), rainfall, and gravity loosen and transport rock, till, and fill materials downslope. Large waves and currents transport the materials alongshore or into the nearshore. Harbour oscillations causing high velocity currents (> 2 m/s) are responsible for shoreline erosion and damage to property in The Pool. Historical resources such as gun batteries and ordnance pieces which date to the 1700s are being lost or threatened through coastal erosion of till and rock cliffs. Improper drainage and maintenance is responsible for erosion of roads and supporting shoulders, necessitating mitigation measures. Sediment transport and deposition during and after large wave and surge events lead to undercutting of infrastructure and increased risk of washover of existing infrastructure. Erosion is ongoing at Bois Island and Ferryland Head Isthmus through slope processes and undercutting; The Pool and the lower Colony of Avalon site through harbour oscillations and related undermining; the tombolo and the main breakwater through wave attack; and Meade’s Cove including the East Coast Trail through wave attack and undercutting. The floor of the latrine in the lower Colony of Avalon site indicates that sea level was approximately 1.25m below present in the 1620s, a relative sea level rise rate of 3.2 mm/y. The recommendations include suggested mitigation to reduce impacts specific to each site.

Sea Level Variations during the Late Quaternary and Coastal Evolution along the Northern Kerala, South West of India

In the present investigation, an attempt is made to document various episodes of transgression and regression during the late Quaternary period from the study of coastal and shelf sequences extending from the inland across the beach to the shelf domain. Shore parallel beach ridges with alternating swales and occurrence of strand line deposits on the shelf make the northern Kerala coast an ideal natural laboratory for documenting the morpho-dynamic response of the coast to the changing sea level. The objectives of the study are lithographic reconstruction of environments of deposition from the coastal plain and shelf sequences; documentation of episodes of transgression and regression by studying different coastal plain sequences and shelf deposits and evolve a comprehensive picture of late Quaternary coastal evolution and sea level changes along the northern Kerala coast by collating morphological, lithological and geochronological evidences from the coastal plain and shelf sequences. The present study is confined to two shore-normal east-west trending transects, Viz. Punjavi and Onakkunnu, in the northern Kerala coast.

Coastal Upwelling of the South Eastern Arabian Sea - An Integrated Approach

Upwelling regions occupies only a small portion of the global ocean surface. However it accounts for a large fraction of the oceanic primary production as well as fishery. Therefore understanding and quantifying the upwelling is of great importance for the marine resources management. Most of the coastal upwelling zones in the Arabian Sea are wind driven uniform systems. Mesoscale studies along the southwest coast of India have shown high spatial and temporal variability in the forcing mechanism and intensity of upwelling. There exists an equatorward component of wind stress as similar to the most upwelling zones along the eastern oceanic boundaries. Therefore an offshore component of surface Ekman transport is expected throughout the year. But several studies supported with in situ evidences have revealed that the process is purely recurring on seasonal basis. The explanation merely based on local wind forcing alone is not sufficient to support the observations. So, it is assumed that upwelling along the South Eastern Arabian Sea is an effect of basin wide wind forcing rather than local wind forcing. In the present study an integrated approach has been made to understand the process of upwelling of the South Eastern Arabian Sea. The latitudinal and seasonal variations (based on Sea Surface Temperature, wind forcing, Chlorophyll a and primary production), forcing mechanisms (local wind and remote forcing) and the factors influencing the system (Arabian Sea High Saline Water, Bay of Bengal water, runoff, coastal geomorphology) are addressed herewith.

Shore Shapers: Introducing children and the general public to biogeomorphological processes and geodiversity

Coastal processes and wildlife shape the coast into a variety of eye-catching and enticing landforms that attract people to marvel at, relax and enjoy coastal geomorphology. These landforms also influence biological communities by providing habitat and refuge. There are very few field guides to explain these processes to the general public and children. In contrast, there is a relative wealth of resources and organised activities introducing people to coastal wildlife, especially on rocky shores. These biological resources typically focus on the biology and climatic controls on their distribution, rather than how the biology interacts with its physical habitat. As an outcome of two recent rock coast biogeomorphology projects (detailed at: www.biogeomorph.org/coastal) a multi disciplinary team produced the first known guide to understanding how biogeomorphological processes help create coastal landforms. The ‘Shore Shapers’ guide (shoreshapers.org) is designed to: a. bring biotic geomorphic interactions (how animals, algae and microorganisms protect and shape rock) to life and b. introduce some of the geomorphological and geological controls on biogeomorphic processes and landform development. The guide provides scientific information in an accessible and interactive way – to help sustain children’s interest and extend their learning. We tested a draft version of the guide with children,the general public and volunteers on rocky shore rambles using social science techniques and present the findings, alongside initial results of an evaluation of a newer version of the guide and interactive workshops taking place throughout 2014.

Cartografia e avaliação geotécnica de blocos rochosos em plataformas costeiras (Gaia, NW Portugal)

Mestrado em Engenharia Geotécnica e Geoambiente

Caracterização geomorfológica e modelagem de dados espaciais na plataforma continental rasa do RN nos limites da folha Touros

This work focuses the geomorphological characterization and spatial data modeling in the shallow continental shelf within the Folha Touros limits (SB-25-CV-II), based on bathymetric data analysis and remote sensing products interpretation. The Rio Grande do Norte state is located in northeastern Brazil and the work area is located at the transition region between the eastern and northern portions of their coast. The bathymetric surveys were conduced between march and may 2009, using a 10 meters long vessel and 0.70 meters draught, equipped with global positioning system and echo sounder (dual beam, 200KHz , 14°). The fieldwork resulted in 44 bathymetric profiles espaced 1.5 km and 30 km average length. The bathymetric data amount were 111,200 points and were navigated 1395.7 km within na area about 1,850 km2. The bathymetric data were corrected for the tide level, vessel draught and were subsequently entered into a geographic information system for further processing. Analysis of remote sensing products was carried out using Landsat 7/ETM + band 1, from november 1999. The image was used for visualization and mapping submerged features. The results showed the presence of geomorphological features within the study area. Were observed, from the analysis of local bathymetry and satellite image, seven types of geomorphological features. The channels, with two longitudinals channels (e. g. San Roque and Cioba channels) and other perpendicular to the coast (e. g. Touros, Pititinga and Barretas). Coastal reef formations (Maracajaú, Rio do Fogo and Cioba). Longitudinal waves, described in the literature as longitudinal dunes. The occurrence of a transverse dune field. Another feature observed was the oceanic reefs, an rock alignment parallel to the coast. Were identified four riscas , from north to south: risca do Liso, Gameleira, Zumbi, Pititinga (the latter being described for the first time). Finally, an oceanic terrace was observed in the deepest area of study. Image interpretation corroborated with the in situ results, enabling visualization and description for all features in the region. The results were analysed in an integrating method (using the diferent methodologies applied in this work) and it was essential to describe all features in the area. This method allowed us to evaluate which methods generated better results to describe certain features. From these results was possible to prove the existence of submerged features in the eastern shallow continental shelf of Rio Grande do Norte. In this way, the conclusions was (1) this study contributed to the provision of new information about the area in question, particularly with regard to data collection in situ depths, (2) the method of data collection and interpretation proves to be effective because, through this, it was possible to visualize and interpret the features present in the study area and (3) the interpretation and discussion of results in an integrated method, using different methodologies, can provide better results

Palaeotsunami imprints in the near-coast sedimentary records of the Gulfs of Lakonia and Argolis (Peloponnese, Greece)

From historical accounts it is well-known that the coasts of the Gulfs of Lakonia and Argolis (southern and eastern Peloponnese, Greece) have been repeatedly affected by tsunamis during historical times. It is assumed that these palaeotsunamis left sedimentological and geomorphological traces in the geological record which are still detectable these days. As both gulfs are located within one of the seismically most active regions in whole western Eurasia in particular the nearby Hellenic Trench is regarded as the main trigger for tsunami generation. Against this background, selected near-coast sedimentary archives were studied by means of sedimentological, geomorphological, geophysical, geochemical and microfaunal investigations in order to detect signatures of Holocene palaeotsunamigenic activity. The investigations revealed allochthonous sediment layers featuring distinctive sedimentary characteristics of marine high-energy event deposits in most of the investigated study areas. In order to differentiate between the geomorphodynamic driving mechanisms for the deposition of the associated marine high-energy event layers, a multi-method approach was used. The detected high-energy marine deposits are suggested to be of tsunamigenic origin. Radiocarbon dating results allowed establishing local event geo-chronostratigraphies and correlations on a local and regional scale as well as correlations with already described palaeotsunami findings on a supra-regional scale. The geochronological dataset attests repeated tsunamigenic activity at least since the 5th millennium BC up to the 17th century AD. For the studied areas in southeastern Lakonia up to four palaeotsunami event generations were identified, for central Lakonia three and for the investigated areas around the Argolis Gulf also up to four. Comparing the findings with literature data, chronological correlations were found with palaeotsunami deposits detected in near-coast geological archives of Akarnania, of the southwestern, the western and northwestern Peloponnese, with event deposits found on Crete and on the Ionian Islands of Cefalonia and Lefkada as well as with findings from southeastern Sicily (Italy) and Cesarea (Israel). By the identification of multiple palaeotsunami event layers, disturbing autochthonous near-coast sedimentary records of the Gulfs of Lakonia and Argolis during the last seven millennia, a significant tsunami frequency is attested for these regions.

Geology and geomorphology of Florida's coastal marshes

(PDF contains 16 pages.)

Adapting to climate change: Combining economics and geomorphology in coastal policy

How is climate change affecting our coastal environment? How can coastal communities adapt to sea level rise and increased storm risk? These questions have garnered tremendous interest from scientists and policy makers alike, as the dynamic coastal environment is particularly vulnerable to the impacts of climate change. Over half the world population lives and works in a coastal zone less than 120 miles wide, thereby being continuously affected by the changes in the coastal environment [6]. Housing markets are directly influenced by the physical processes that govern coastal systems. Beach towns like Oak Island in North Carolina (NC) face severe erosion, and the tax assesed value of one coastal property fell by 93% in 2007 [9]. With almost ninety percent of the sandy beaches in the US facing moderate to severe erosion [8], coastal communities often intervene to stabilize the shoreline and hold back the sea in order to protect coastal property and infrastructure. Beach nourishment, which is the process of rebuilding a beach by periodically replacing an eroding section of the beach with sand dredged from another location, is a policy for erosion control in many parts of the US Atlantic and Pacific coasts [3]. Beach nourishment projects in the United States are primarily federally funded and implemented by the Army Corps of Engineers (ACE) after a benefit-cost analysis. Benefits from beach nourishment include reduction in storm damage and recreational benefits from a wider beach. Costs would include the expected cost of construction, present value of periodic maintenance, and any external cost such as the environmental cost associated with a nourishment project (NOAA). Federal appropriations for nourishment totaled $787 million from 1995 to 2002 [10]. Human interventions to stabilize shorelines and physical coastal dynamics are strongly coupled. The value of the beach, in the form of storm protection and recreation amenities, is at least partly capitalized into property values. These beach values ultimately influence the benefit-cost analysis in support of shoreline stabilization policy, which, in turn, affects the shoreline dynamics. This paper explores the policy implications of this circularity. With a better understanding of the physical-economic feedbacks, policy makers can more effectively design climate change adaptation strategies. (PDF contains 4 pages)

Maps of coastal and marine geomorphology between Albenga and Savona (NW Mediterranean Sea, Italy)

In this paper, we present a map describing the main geomorphological features of the coastal and marine area between the towns of Albenga and Savona (Ligurian Sea, NW Mediterranean) corresponding to a coastal stretch of ~40 km. To produce this map, we collated data from the literature, orthophotos, perspective photos, multibeam and side scan sonar data, and undertook direct surveys to ground truth data obtained using indirect techniques. We divided the information into nine thematic layers, including bathymetry, natural coastal types, geomorphological elements, seafloor coverage (both geological and biological), coastal and nearshore dynamics, human influence on coastal and marine environments, coastal occupation and protected areas.