Use of HEPG2 cells to assay the safety of cosmetic active substances

The importance of this study is based on the need to obtain simple and efficient in vitro models to predict the in vivo toxicity of cosmetics, aiming not to use animals as experimental model. Here, we proposed the use of HepG2 cells, which are widely applied to simulate the hepatic function of the human organism in vitro. This cell line was chose since recent studies have shown that the liver is potentially the most frequently targeted organ by cosmetic ingredients, and beyond that, considering the widely application of in vitro assays to test the cutaneous permeation of cosmetic products, including the assays applying modified Franz cells, this technique becomes indispensable. Three different cosmetic active substances were used, and the toxicity to HepG2 cells was assessed by the MTT method. The treatment with hyaluronic acid showed no toxicity to HepG2 cells. Treating the cells with P. guajava L. extract were verified that increasing the amount of the extract in the media, the cellular viability decreased, and finally, the treatment of alpha-lipoic acid showed a cytoprotective effect in relation to the treatment with propylene glycol. The study demonstrated the suitability in using HepG2 cells to assess the safety of cosmetic active substances, helping in the prediction of if the substance could be hepatotoxic if could reach the bloodstream

Effects of Micelles and Vesicles on the Oximolysis of p-Nitrophenyl Diphenyl Phosphate: A Model System for Surfactant-Based Skin-defensive Formulations against Organophosphates

The rates of oximolysis of p-nitrophenyl diphenyl phosphate (PNPDPP) by Acetophenoxime; 10-phenyl-10-hydi-oxyiminodecanoic acid; 4-(9-carboxynonanyl)-1-(9-carboxy-1-hydroyiminononanyl) benzene; 1-dodecyl-2-[(hydroxyimino)methyl]-pyridinium chloride (IV) and N-methylpyridinium-2-aldoxime chloride were determined in micelles of N-hexadecyl-N,N,N-trimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), N-hexadecyl-N,N-dimethylammonium propanesulfonate and dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride (DODAC) vesicles. The effects of CTAC micelles and DODAC vesicles on the rates of oxymolysis of O,O-Diethyl O-(4-nitrophenyl) phosphate (paraoxon) by oxime IV were also determined. Analysis of micellar and vesicular effects on oximolysis of PNPDPP, using pseudophase or pseudophase with explicit consideration of ion exchange models, required the determination of the aggregate`s effects on the pK(a), of oximes and on the rates of PNPDPP hydrolysis. All aggregates increased the rate of oximolysis of PNPDPP and the results were analyzed quantitatively. In particular, DODAC vesicles catalyzed the reaction and increased the rate of oximolysis of PNPDPP by IV several million fold at pH`s compatible with pharmaceutical formulations. The rate increase produced by DODAC vesicles on the rate of oximolysis paraoxon by IV demonstrates the pharmaceutical potential of this system, since the substrate is used as an agricultural defensive agent and the surfactant is extensively employed in cosmetic formulations. (C) 2008 Wiley-Liss, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 98:1040-1052, 2009

Prospective study for the development of emulsion systems containing natural oil products

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

T-cell recognition of chemicals, protein allergens and drugs: towards the development of in vitro assays

Chemicals can elicit T-cell-mediated diseases such as allergic contact dermatitis and adverse drug reactions. Therefore, testing of chemicals, drugs and protein allergens for hazard identification and risk assessment is essential in regulatory toxicology. The seventh amendment of the EU Cosmetics Directive now prohibits the testing of cosmetic ingredients in mice, guinea pigs and other animal species to assess their sensitizing potential. In addition, the EU Chemicals Directive REACh requires the retesting of more than 30,000 chemicals for different toxicological endpoints, including sensitization, requiring vast numbers of animals. Therefore, alternative methods are urgently needed to eventually replace animal testing. Here, we summarize the outcome of an expert meeting in Rome on 7 November 2009 on the development of T-cell-based in vitro assays as tools in immunotoxicology to identify hazardous chemicals and drugs. In addition, we provide an overview of the development of the field over the last two decades.

Caracterização físico-química e analítica de fibras capilares e ingredientes cosméticos para proteção

Com o aumento dos tratamentos químicos e/ou físicos nos cabelos aos quais são realizados mediante o uso de dispositivos térmicos, há uma maior preocupação a respeito dos danos causados aos cabelos por estes tipos de tratamentos. O conhecimento dos efeitos, benefícios e/ou malefícios, de ingredientes cosméticos em cabelos torna-se necessário, pois facilita a busca por produtos baseada no tipo de cabelo. O principal objetivo do trabalho foi a caracterização físico-química, analítica e térmica de mechas de cabelo de diferentes etnias (caucasiano, oriental e afro-étnico virgem e brasileiro virgem e descolorido) antes e após o uso de ingredientes cosméticos seguido de um tratamento térmico (utilizando piastra) e intercalando com lavagens. O estudo das amostras de cabelo e de uma amostra de queratina animal envolveu a utilização das técnicas de TG/DTG, DSC, análise elementar, FTIR, MEV e técnicas de avaliação de eficácia, como tensão/deformação, penteabilidade e quebra por escovação. A partir da TG/DTG, foi possível avaliar as etapas de decomposição térmica das amostras de cabelo virgem e de queratina animal e estas apresentaram um comportamento térmico semelhante entre si. O estudo cinético não isotérmico por TG mostrou que, dos diferentes tipos de amostras de cabelo virgem, o afro-étnico apresentou menor estabilidade térmica e o oriental foi o mais estável termicamente. Os resultados de DSC corroboraram os obtidos por TG, demonstrando que a amostra de cabelo afro-étnico apresentou temperatura de desnaturação térmica das cadeias de α-queratina menor (TD = 223°C) do que as amostras dos outros tipos de cabelo (TD = 236°C). As mechas de cabelo virgem e clareadas foram tratadas com formulações cosméticas contendo silicones e avaliadas quanto a eficiência destes na proteção térmica dos cabelos. Algumas delas mostraram eficiência na proteção térmica das cadeias de α-queratina, diminuindo o seu grau de desnaturação. Foi possível observar que a associação do calor da piastra com as lavagens sucessivas causou danos tanto à cutícula (conforme resultados de FTIR e MEV), como também, ao córtex dos cabelos (conforme resultados de DSC). Em alguns casos, os danos causados foram tão graves que as camadas mais superficiais da cutícula sofreram descamações. O estudo mostrou, também, que a eficiência da proteção térmica nos cabelos depende do tipo da formulação cosmética em que estes protetores estão incorporados e do estado em que os cabelos se encontram. A DSC permitiu a avaliação da modificação termicamente induzida das cadeias de α-queratina e sua posterior desnaturação. O estudo envolvendo a associação das diferentes técnicas apresentou-se viável na avaliação tanto dos danos causados aos cabelos quanto na eficiência dos ingredientes cosméticos na proteção térmica dos mesmos.

The use of non-animal alternatives in the safety evaluations of cosmetics ingredients by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)

In Europe, the safety evaluation of cosmetics is based on the safety evaluation of each individual ingredient. Article 3 of the Cosmetics Regulation specifies that a cosmetic product made available on the market is to be safe for human health when used normally or under reasonably foreseeable conditions. For substances that cause some concern with respect to human health (e.g. colorants, preservatives, UV-filters), safety is evaluated at the Commission level by a scientific committee, presently called the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). According to the Cosmetics Regulations, in the EU, the marketing of cosmetics products and their ingredients that have been tested on animals for most of their human health effects, including acute toxicity, is prohibited. Nevertheless, any study dating from before this prohibition took effect is accepted for the safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients. The in vitro methods reported in the dossiers summited to the SCCS are here evaluated from the published reports issued by the scientific committee of the Directorate General of Health and Consumers (DG SANCO); responsible for the safety of cosmetics ingredients. The number of studies submitted to the SCCS that do not involve animals is still low and in general the safety of cosmetics ingredients is based on in vivo studies performed before the prohibition.

Fine Needle Aspiration Cytology In The Diagnosis Of Perioral Adverse Reactions To Cosmetic Dermal Fillers.

Facial cosmetic procedures are increasingly requested, and dermal filler materials have been widely used as a nonsurgical option since the 1980s. However, injectable fillers have been implicated in local adverse reactions. Therefore, the aim of this article was to describe the use of fine needle aspiration cytology (FNAC) in the diagnosis of foreign-body reactions to the perioral injection of dermal fillers. A 69-year-old woman presented with a painful nodule on her right nasolabial fold. Intraoral FNAC was performed, and cytologic smears were examined under optical and polarized light microscopy, showing birefringent microspheres, confirming the diagnosis of an adverse reaction caused by polymethyl methacrylate filler. FNAC is a less invasive method to confirm the diagnosis of adverse reactions caused by perioral cosmetic dermal fillers.

In Vitro Evaluation Of Sun Protection Factor And Stability Of Commercial Sunscreens Using Mass Spectrometry.

Sunlight exposure causes several types of injury to humans, especially on the skin; among the most common harmful effects due to ultraviolet (UV) exposure are erythema, pigmentation and lesions in DNA, which may lead to cancer. These long-term effects are minimized with the use of sunscreens, a class of cosmetic products that contains UV filters as the main component in the formulation; such molecules can absorb, reflect or diffuse UV rays, and can be used alone or as a combination to broaden the protection on different wavelengths. Currently, worldwide regulatory agencies define which ingredients and what quantities must be used in each country, and enforce companies to conduct tests that confirm the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and the UVA (Ultraviolet A) factor. Standard SPF determination tests are currently conducted in vivo, using human subjects. In an industrial mindset, apart from economic and ethical reasons, the introduction of an in vitro method emerges as an interesting alternative by reducing risks associated to UV exposure on tests, as well as providing assertive analytical results. The present work aims to describe a novel methodology for SPF determination directly from sunscreen formulations using the previously described cosmetomics platform and mass spectrometry as the analytical methods of choice.

Apparent digestibility coefficients of selected feed ingredients for dourado Salminus brasiliensis

The excellence of its flesh and fast growth makes the dourado, Salminus brasiliensis, a carnivorous fish native to the Prata basin, a potential candidate for intensive fish farming. This study evaluated the apparent digestibility coefficients (ADC) of energy and nutrients of animal and plant protein sources for the carnivorous Characin dourado S. brasiliensis. Fish (19.5 +/- 5.0 g) were stocked in plastic cages (80-L) and fed pelleted test diets containing 30% of the test ingredient [fish meal (FM), poultry by-product meal (PBM), soybean meal (SBM), and corn gluten meal (CGM) plus 70% of a reference diet (481.4 g kg(-1) of crude protein and 18.63 kJ of gross energy per gram]. After the last daily meal, cages were transferred to cylindrical, conical-bottomed aquarium (200-L) where faeces were collected by sedimentation in a refrigerated container. Except for ADC of protein and energy, all other ADC of nutrients showed significant differences (P < 0.01). ADC values were: 94.3%, 91.3%, 93.1%, and 93.5% for crude protein; 91.0%, 90.3%, 87.8%, and 88.8% for gross energy; 92.1%, 84.5%, 80.6%, and 79.3% for ash; 83.9%, 80.3%, 84.3%, and 84.6% for dry matter; 97.4%, 96.7%, 93.3%, and 91.5% for lipid for FM, PBM, SBM, and CGM, respectively. The average amino acid ADC was: 93.6%, 90.0%, 92.1%, and 92.5% of FM, PBM, SBM, and CGM, respectively. All test ingredients were efficiently used and can partially replace FM in diets for carnivorous dourado.

Influence of Urea, Isopropanol, and Propylene Glycol on Rutin In Vitro Release from Cosmetic Semisolid Systems Estimated by Factorial Design

Rutin, one of the major flavonoids found in an assortment of plants, was reported to act as a sun protection factor booster with high anti-UVA defense, antioxidant, antiaging, and anticellulite, by improvement of the cutaneous microcirculation. This research work aimed at evaluating the rutin in vitro release from semisolid systems, in vertical diffusion cells, containing urea, isopropanol and propylene glycol, associated or not, according to the factorial design with two levels with center point. Urea (alone and in association with isopropanol and propylene glycol) and isopropanol (alone and in association with propylene glycol) influenced significant and negatively rutin liberation in diverse parameters: flux (g/cm2.h); apparent permeability coefficient (cm/h); rutin amount released (g/cm2); and liberation enhancement factor. In accordance with the results, the presence of propylene glycol 5.0% (wt/wt) presented statistically favorable to promote rutin release from this semisolid system with flux = 105.12 8.59 g/cm2.h; apparent permeability coefficient = 7.01 0.572 cm/h; rutin amount released = 648.80 53.01 g/cm2; and liberation enhancement factor = 1.21 0.07.

Quantitative Determination of Dimethylaminoethanol in Cosmetic Formulations by Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy

A nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopic method was validated for the quantitative determination of dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) in cosmetic formulations. The linearity in the range from 0.5000 to 1.5000 g (DMAE salt/mass maleic acid) presents a correlation coefficient > 0.99 for all DMAE salts. The repeatability (intraday), expressed as relative standard deviation, ranged from 1.08 to 1.44% for samples and 1.31 to 1.88% for raw materials. The detection limit and quantitation limit were 0.0017 and 0.0051 g for DMAE, 0.0018 and 0.0054 g for DMAE bitartrate, and 0.0023 and 0.0071 g for DMAE acetamidobenzoate, respectively. The proposed method is simple, precise, and accurate and can be used in the quality control of raw materials and cosmetic gels containing these compounds as active substances.

Physical, physicochemical and chemical characterization of turf, sulphur mud and fango for cosmetic application

Focusing on the therapeutic and cosmetic potentials of the thermal water, several processes were developed to achieve a raw material known as fango which presents in its constitution water, clay and organic soil. This research work aimed at characterizing turf, sulphur mud and fango from Araxa, MG, Brazil, through physical, physicochemical, inorganic and organic assessments for cosmetic and topical product proposes. The characterization permitted the determination of relevant parameters to suggest the efficacy (presence, of ions) and safety (absence of toxic metals) of those raw materials for cosmetic and pharmaceutical utilization.