In vitro evaluation of the safety profile of cosmeceuticals containing growth factors and their analogues

Introduction: Aging skin is a condition that affects (or will affect) all people, and its treatment is considered a clinical challenge. Growth factors and their analogues are emerging as a promising therapeutic option. Objectives: To evaluate the safety profile of some dermocosmetic products with formulations based on growth factors - or their analogs intended for that purpose - using in vitro human skin cell culture models. Methods: Two types of cell cultures were studied, and the effects of the study products on the proliferation of melanoma cells and normal human fibroblasts were evaluated. Results: No significant morphological alterations were found in the cultured human melanoma, and no significant decrease in the number of healthy cells was verified in the normal fibroblasts culture. In some cases there was even a proliferation of those cells. Conclusions: These preliminary data demonstrate that cosmeceutical products containing growth factors as an active principle can be considered safe for topical application.

Carotenoids and polyphenols in nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals

The market for cosmeceuticals continues with significant annual growth, but today consumers are more aware of nutritional products that contribute to both skin health and disease prevention. In the last 10 years, pharmacists, chemists, nutritionists, and physicians have been working together to develop new nutritional applications to satisfy peoples needs and demands. As a recent result of convergence phenomenon between cosmetics and food industries, nutricosmetics is a blurry area unfamiliar to many consumers and sometimes even to foods and cosmetics experts. Characterized by oral supplementation of nutrients, nutricosmetics are also known as beauty pills,beauty from within, and even oral cosmetics. The major claim is the antiaging effect, reducing wrinkles by fighting free radicals generated by solar radiation. Among the ingredients used in nutricosmetics, antioxidants represent the most crucial. The best-known antioxidants are carotenoids (beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin) and polyphenols (anthocyanidins, catechins, flavonoids, tannins, and procyanidins). This study presents an overview about the concept of nutricosmetics and gives us information about the difference between nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. The article also discusses about carotenoids and polyphenols, two classes of ingredients often employed in such products.

Patient safety and beyond: what should we expect from microneedle arrays in the transdermal delivery arena?

Research based upon microneedle (MN) arrays has intensified recently. While the initial focus was on biomolecules, the field has expanded to include delivery of conventional small-molecule drugs whose water solubility currently precludes transdermal administration. Much success has been achieved, with peptides, proteins, vaccines, antibodies and even particulates delivered by MN in therapeutic/prophylactic doses. Recent innovations have focused on enhanced formulation design, scalable manufacture and extension of exploitation to minimally invasive patient monitoring, ocular delivery and enhanced administration of cosmeceuticals. Only two MN-based drug/vaccine delivery products are currently marketed, partially due to limitations with older MN designs based upon silicon and metal. Even the more promising polymeric MN have raised a number of regulatory and manufacturability queries that the field must address. MN arrays have tremendous potential to yield real benefits for patients and industry and, through diligence, innovation and collaboration, this will begin to be realised over the next 3-5 years.

Microneedle Technology

Microneedles (MNs) are minimally invasive devices consisting of numerous micron-sized projections amassed on a baseplate, designed to enhance transdermal drug delivery. When applied to the skin, the needles puncture the outermost layer, the stratum corneum, forming aqueous conduits through which drugs can diffuse to the dermal microcirculation. With an average length of 50-900 μm, MNs are short enough to avoid stimulation of dermal nerves and do not induce bleeding, yet gain access to the skin's rich microcirculation for drug delivery. MNs have been extensively investigated for drug and vaccine delivery, demonstrating their efficacy at increasing the number of compounds amenable to delivery through the skin. This chapter discusses the materials and fabrication methods involved in MN production, alongside the different types of MN arrays and their delivery capabilities. The field has expanded to consider novel applications of MNs including minimally invasive patient monitoring, ocular delivery and enhanced administration of cosmeceuticals. Patient usage and effects on the skin are also considered in terms of safety, efficacy and acceptability. The next steps in MN development are to focus on the scale-up of manufacturing processes, a challenge considering the number of small-scale methods detailed in the literature. Regulatory guidance is awaited to direct this, alongside provision of clearer patient instruction for safe and effective use of MN devices. MNs have tremendous potential to yield real benefits for patients and industry and with continued research in the key areas highlighted, this will begin to be realised over the next number of years.

Volatile profile of Spanish Cistus plants as sources of antimicrobials for industrial applications

Cistus is a plant genus traditionally used in folk medicine as remedy for several microbial disorders and infections. The abundance of Cistus spp. in the Iberian Peninsula together with their ability to renew after wildfire contribute to their profitability as suppliers of functional ingredients. The aim of this study was to provide a comprehensive characterization of the volatile profile of different Cistus plants grown in Spain:Cistus ladanifer L., Cistus albidus L., Cistus salviifolius L., and Cistus clusii Dunal (the latter has not been studied before). A system combining headspace solid-phase microextraction and gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HS-SPME-GC–MS) was implemented; thereby, the volatile compounds were extracted and analyzed in a fast, reliable and environment-friendly way. A total of 111 volatile compounds were identified, 28 of which were reported in Cistus for the first time. The most abundant components of the samples (mono and sesquiterpenes) have been previously reported as potent antimicrobial agents. Therefore, this work reveals the potential use of the Cistus spp. studied as natural sources of antimicrobial compounds for industrial production of cosmeceuticals, among other applications.

Desenvolvimento e caracterização de um sabonete contendo borras de café

Desde da antiguidade que o ser humano se preocupa com a sua aparência externa, em especial com a pele. Para além do desenvolvimento de cosméticos, surgiram também produtos mais complexos, os cosmecêuticos, que diferem dos cosméticos devido a poderem influenciar a função biológica da pele, causando modificações positivas e duráveis. O conceito de sustentabilidade é usado para definir ações e atividades humanas que visam suprir as necessidades atuais dos seres humanos, sem comprometer o futuro das próximas gerações. Ou seja, a sustentabilidade está diretamente relacionada ao desenvolvimento económico e material sem agredir o meio ambiente, utilizando os recursos naturais de forma inteligente para que eles se mantenham no futuro. Seguindo estes parâmetros, a humanidade pode garantir o desenvolvimento sustentável. As borras de café são consideradas como um subproduto alimentar, sem grande reutilização, o que promove danos no impacto ambiental. Por outro lado, as borras de café podem exercer grandes benefícios para a pele, pois são consideradas excelentes exfoliantes naturais com propriedades refirmantes. Os produtos à base de cafeína são aliados no combate à celulite, na estimulação da regeneração celular e da circulação sanguínea, bem como, no rejuvenescimento e revitalização da pele. Este trabalho consistiu no desenvolvimento de um sabonete, contendo borras de café, como forma de reaproveitamento de um subproduto alimentar rico em cafeína, com o intuito de obter produtos com boas propriedades cosméticas e elevada estabilidade física e química. As borras de café foram analisadas em termos da sua estabilidade física e química através de ensaios de estabilidade acelerada por centrifugação, textura, reologia e doseamento do teor de cafeína por HPLC. Os resultados obtidos através do controlo físico-químico dos sabonetes, da determinação do potencial irritante cutâneo e da análise sensorial efectuada em voluntários humanos, demonstraram que é possível preparar sabonetes de borra de café com boa estabilidade físico-química, boa tolerância cutânea e com características sensoriais adequadas, utilizando uma base de sabão constituída pelos ingredientes (INCI): Sodium Palmate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Aqua (water), Glycerine, Fragância de café, Sodium Chloride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (Shea Butter), CI 778911 (Titanium Dioxide), Tetrasodium EDTA, CI 77499, Linalool e à qual foi adicionada 5% de borras de café.