Designing cnc knit for hybrid membrane and bending active structures

Recent advances in computation allow for the integration of design and simulation of highly interrelated systems, such as hybrids of structural membranes and bending active elements. The engaged complexities of forces and logistics can be mediated through the development of materials with project specific properties and detailing. CNC knitting with high tenacity yarn enables this practice and offers an alternative to current woven membranes. The design and fabrication of an 8m high fabric tower through an interdisciplinary team of architects, structural and textile engineers, allowed to investigate means to design, specify, make and test CNC knit as material for hybrid structures in architectural scale. This paper shares the developed process, identifies challenges, potentials and future work.

Antibacterial activity of textiles for wound treatment

Major advances in the development and use of antimicrobial textiles to control bacterial proliferation on wound beds continue. However, wound dressings are, in general, not included in standardized regimens for measuring and monitoring their antimicrobial effectiveness. This work adapts these methods to assess the antibacterial activity of textiles designed for wound healing purposes. Environmental conditions representative of those present at the wound site (i.e., moisture levels, infection, and available nutrients) were evaluated. This work shows that moisture levels were the environmental factor that had the greatest influence on the antimicrobial agent activities tested. These results suggest that it is possible to use the more representative environmental conditions present on the wound bed for in vitro screening of textile antimicrobial activity.

Enzymatic biofinishes for synthetic textiles

Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia, Grant SFRH/BPD/46515/2008. Jiajia Fu acknowledges the support of Jiangsu Provincial Natural Science Foundation of China (No. BK2012112) and the National Natural Science Foundation of China under Grant No. 3120113

Children's work in Spanish textiles during the 19th and 20th Centuries

This essay deals with the reasons explaining children s work in 19th century textile factories and their removal during the first part of the 20th century. The inadequacy of the structure of incomes and expenditures of the household and the very low economic incentives to educate children can explain why children were in the factories and not in the school. Moreover, the marginal economic contribution to the economy of the household of a child was the same as that of his mother. This normally implied that women and children were perfect substitutes. When the family had a child at working age this allowed to replace the paid work input of the mother. With the beginnings of the 20th century a set of changes leading to the increase of women s productivity and hourly real wages, switched the situation and involved the new incorporation of women into paid work and the investment in children s human capital.

L'application de la spectroscopie Raman en criminalistique pour l'analyse du colorant des fibres textiles en acrylique, coton et laine

RESUME La méthode de la spectroscopie Raman est une technique d'analyse chimique basée sur l'exploitation du phénomène de diffusion de la lumière (light scattering). Ce phénomène fut observé pour la première fois en 1928 par Raman et Krishnan. Ces observations permirent à Raman d'obtenir le Prix Nobel en physique en 1930. L'application de la spectroscopie Raman a été entreprise pour l'analyse du colorant de fibres textiles en acrylique, en coton et en laine de couleurs bleue, rouge et noire. Nous avons ainsi pu confirmer que la technique est adaptée pour l'analyse in situ de traces de taille microscopique. De plus, elle peut être qualifiée de rapide, non destructive et ne nécessite aucune préparation particulière des échantillons. Cependant, le phénomène de la fluorescence s'est révélé être l'inconvénient le plus important. Lors de l'analyse des fibres, différentes conditions analytiques ont été testées et il est apparu qu'elles dépendaient surtout du laser choisi. Son potentiel pour la détection et l'identification des colorants imprégnés dans les fibres a été confirmé dans cette étude. Une banque de données spectrale comprenant soixante colorants de référence a été réalisée dans le but d'identifier le colorant principal imprégné dans les fibres collectées. De plus, l'analyse de différents blocs de couleur, caractérisés par des échantillons d'origine inconnue demandés à diverses personnes, a permis de diviser ces derniers en plusieurs groupes et d'évaluer la rareté des configurations des spectres Raman obtenus. La capacité de la technique Raman à différencier ces échantillons a été évaluée et comparée à celle des méthodes conventionnelles pour l'analyse des fibres textiles, à savoir la micro spectrophotométrie UV-Vis (MSP) et la chromatographie sur couche mince (CCM). La technique Raman s'est révélée être moins discriminatoire que la MSP pour tous les blocs de couleurs considérés. C'est pourquoi dans le cadre d'une séquence analytique nous recommandons l'utilisation du Raman après celle de la méthode d'analyse de la couleur, à partir d'un nombre de sources lasers le plus élevé possible. Finalement, la possibilité de disposer d'instruments équipés avec plusieurs longueurs d'onde d'excitation, outre leur pouvoir de réduire la fluorescence, permet l'exploitation d'un plus grand nombre d'échantillons. ABSTRACT Raman spectroscopy allows for the measurement of the inelastic scattering of light due to the vibrational modes of a molecule when irradiated by an intense monochromatic source such as a laser. Such a phenomenon was observed for the first time by Raman and Krishnan in 1928. For this observation, Raman was awarded with the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1930. The application of Raman spectroscopy has been undertaken for the dye analysis of textile fibers. Blue, black and red acrylics, cottons and wools were examined. The Raman technique presents advantages such as non-destructive nature, fast analysis time, and the possibility of performing microscopic in situ analyses. However, the problem of fluorescence was often encountered. Several aspects were investigated according to the best analytical conditions for every type/color fiber combination. The potential of the technique for the detection and identification of dyes was confirmed. A spectral database of 60 reference dyes was built to detect the main dyes used for the coloration of fiber samples. Particular attention was placed on the discriminating power of the technique. Based on the results from the Raman analysis for the different blocs of color submitted to analyses, it was possible to obtain different classes of fibers according to the general shape of spectra. The ability of Raman spectroscopy to differentiate samples was compared to the one of the conventional techniques used for the analysis of textile fibers, like UV-Vis Microspectrophotometry (UV-Vis MSP) and thin layer chromatography (TLC). The Raman technique resulted to be less discriminative than MSP for every bloc of color considered in this study. Thus, it is recommended to use Raman spectroscopy after MSP and light microscopy to be considered for an analytical sequence. It was shown that using several laser wavelengths allowed for the reduction of fluorescence and for the exploitation of a higher number of samples.