Beach Profiles: Complying with the EU Directive

Interpretación realizada por las alumnas en prácticas de la Facultad de Traducción e Interpretación, Danaide Rodríguez Hernández, Esther Ramírez Millares y Estíbaliz López-Leiton Trujillo, ,

Runup variability due to time dependence and stochasticity in the beach profiles: two extreme cases of the Spanish coast

Equations for extreme runup worked out from several experimental studies are compared. Infragraviatory oscillations dominate the swash in a dissipative state but not in intermediate - reflective states. Therefore two kinds of equation depending on either significant wave height, H-0, or the Iribarren number, xi(0), should be used. Through a sand bed physical model with a uniform sand bed slope, equations are proposed for both beach states, and results are compared with precedent field and physical model experiments. Once the equations are chosen, the time-longshore variability in a medium - long term time scale of the foreshore slope is evaluated in two extreme cases relating to the Spanish coast. The Salinas beach on the North coast (Bay of Biscay) displayed a permanent dissipative beach state with small variations in the beach foreshore slope both along the shore and in time, so foreshore slope deviations in a medium-long term period were irrelevant and extreme runup is predicted with the wave height worked out from the design return period. Peniscola beach on the East coast (Mediterranean sea) displayed an intermediate state. If only time variations are analysed, variations in determining extreme runup are irrelevant. In contrast, significant differences were found when the longshore variations were studied in this Mediterranean beach.

New methodology for describing the equilibrium beach profile applied to the Valencia's beaches

Mathematical models used for the understanding of coastal seabed morphology play a key role in beach nourishment projects. These projects have become the fundamental strategy for coastal maintenance during the last few years. Accordingly, the accuracy of these models is vital to optimize the costs of coastal regeneration projects. Planning of such interventions requires methodologies that do not generate uncertainties in their interpretation. A study and comparison of mathematical simulation models of the coastline is carried out in this paper, as well as elements that are part of the model that are a source of uncertainty. The equilibrium profile (EP) and the offshore limit corresponding to the depth of closure (DoC) have been analyzed taking into account different timescale ranges. The results have thus been compared using data sets from three different periods which are identified as present, past and future. Accuracy in data collection for the beach profiles and the definition of the median grain size calculation using collected samples are the two main factors that have been taken into account in this paper. These data can generate high uncertainties and can produce a lack of accuracy in nourishment projects. Together they can generate excessive costs due to possible excess or shortage of sand used for the nourishment. The main goal of this paper is the development of a new methodology to increase the accuracy of the existing equilibrium beach profile models, providing an improvement to the inputs used in such models and in the fitting of the formulae used to obtain seabed shape. This new methodology has been applied and tested on Valencia's beaches.

Caracterização morfodinâmica do litoral Norte Fluminense, RJ, Brasil

A morfologia das praias é reflexo da ação hidrodinfunica com o tipo de sedimento disponível. Esta interação se dá a partir da base de ação das ondas, tornando-se mais efetiva na zona de arrebentação onde a energia é dissipada, originando na zona de surfe que se estende em direção à linha de costa até Q limite do espraiamento na face de praia. O objetivo deste trabalho é apresentar as características morfodinâmicas do litoral NE do Estado do Rio de Janeiro, baseando-se na análise da variação espaço Hemporal de perfis de praia, na morfologia da plataforma continental e em fotos aéreas. Os perfis de praia foram levantados durante cinco anos pela PETROBRÁS S/A, em oito estações ao longo do litoral. O comportamento morfodinâmico distinto de setores do litoral estudado é função do padrão de ondas e direção da linha de costa, morfologia da plataforma interna controlando a extensão da zona de surfe e o número de zonas de arrebentação, características dos sedimentos e gradiente da face de praia. Foram reconhecidos quatro compartimentos morfodinâmicos distintos, com base na morfologia dos perfis praiais e plataforma interna, no índice de mobilidade da linha de praia, granulometria x gradiente da face de praia e o parâmetro Q. Os quatro compartimentos são: Atafona/Foz do Rio Paraíba do Sul - estágio morfodinâmico intermediário a dissipativo, com o maior índice de mobilidade e elevada taxa de erosão; Sul de Atafona-Cabo de São Tomé - estágio intermediário a refletivo com baixo índice de mobilidade da praia; Cabo de São Tomé - estágio refletivo a intermediário com alto índice de mobilidade da praia; Cabo de São Tomé-Cabiúnas - estágio refletivo com baixo índice de mobilidade.

Monitoramento por dgps e análise dos processos erosivos da linha de costa na praia de Pirangi do Norte - Parnamirim / RN

Through out the course of a steady increase in search and recovery of space in the coastal zone, there is also an expanding concern about the erosion processes of this area. The main problem in coastal areas is that urbanization occurs in a disorderly fashion and unsustainable, further aggravating the problems of coastal dynamics. The study area of this work is located on the southern coast of Pirangi do Norte beach to about 20km south of Natal, capital of Rio Grande do Norte in the Parnamirim City. This area has the length of approximately 1km, divided into three sections (Western, Central and Eastern) with a morphology consisting of a tableland at the top, sea cliffs in the West and Central parts and sand dunes in the Eastern section, both vegetated, and a coastal plain on the inferior part associated with the presence of beach rocks. This study aimed to analyze the erosion processes operating in the excerpt of Pirangi do Norte beach and assess the feasibility of their monitoring making use of DGPS (Global Positioning System Differential mode). During the work it was carried out a physical description of the area through photo-interpretation and site survey after measurement of the shoreline in the period between November 2004 and November 2009 and beach profiles between August 2005 and July 2006. The analysis of the results of the annual surveys showed the occurrence of variations of the shoreline along the stretch traveled. Sites are identified in advancement coast from the sea and it was verified in loco the presence of erosion with deposition of materials on the lower part of the coastal bluff, the former position of the shoreline, showing a false notion of advancing it. This leads to the conclusion that the data collected in a survey of the shoreline should always be accompanied by photographic records of the local area and with the highest rate of erosion, thus avoiding the mistake of treating the deposit materials as evidence of progress coast. At the end of the study, after a review of various works to mitigate the erosion in the coastal zone, it is recommended to the area of study the adoption of an artificial feeding of the beach, aiming the minimization of the erosive effects of the tides. Moreover, it is suggested that even the continuity of monitoring, maintenance of existing vegetation and control of the occupation on the edge of sea cliffs

Morfologia e sedimentologia da plataforma continental brasileira adjacente a São Bento do Norte e Caiçara do Norte-RN/NE-Brasil

This dissertation the results of a research developed in the area of São Bento do Norte and Caiçara do Norte, northern coast of the State of Rio Grande do Norte, during the period of June of 2000 to August of 2001, in the ambit of the projects MAMBMARÉ (CNPq/CTPETRO) and PROBRAL (CAPES/DAAD). The objective principal of this research was the characterization of the sedimentary dynamics of this coast, with base in data of coastal process (winds, currents, waves and tides), with topographical risings (beach profiles and dunes), satellite images and sedimentary analyses. The more specific objectives were accomplished the coastal monitoring of this coast, to verify the maintenance of an erosive tendency or progradacional after the groynes construction for contention of the erosion in the beach of Caiçara do Norte, as well as to verify the influence of the features of bottom of the platform interns adjacent on the pole petroliferous of Guamaré. The executed monitoramento allowed to identify that the movement of the sediments, along the year, in that area, is cyclical, reaching the largest oscillations during the months of winter (deposition) and they will summer (erosion). The sedimentologic studies indicated a general tendency for sands quartzosas, with gravel presence, moderately to good selected, with asymmetry predominantly negative. In agreement with the parameter of Dean (1957), used in the identification of the state morfodinâmico of the beaches, monitored beaches, are basically reflectivas with tendency to middlemen, what frames that space of the coast norte-riograndense, as a space strongly vulnerable to erosive processes. The studies developed in the platform, it interns of this area, allowed to visualize for the first time, in large scale, the distribution of the features of the submarine bottom to the batométrico coat of 25 meters. Being pointed out the presence of a high one topographical submerged, with about 5 meters of height, 1 km of width and more than 24 meters of extension, located in the platform it interns in front of São Bento do Norte; coincident with the trend of the system of flaws of Carnaubais. This feature relay an important paper on the control of the sedimentary processes and oceanographic, as well as in the coastal evolution of this area of the RN state, and they affect the area of the pole petroliferous of Guamaré directly. These results contribute to a better knowledge of the processes in the area, and consequently as subsidies implantation of measures of coastal and environmental protection for the cities of São Bento do Norte and Caiçara do Norte, as well as to understand how the geological-sedimentary processes and oceanographic, in this area, are influencing the characteristics geoambientais of the pole petroliferous of Guamaré

Caracterização da dinâmica ambiental da região costeira do município de Galinhos, litoral setentrional do Rio Grande do Norte

This doctorate thesis concerning on the Characterization of the Environmental Dynamics of the Coastal Area of the Municipal district of Galinhos, Septentrional Coast of Rio Grande do Norte State, is located in the influence area of the Guamaré Petroliferous Pole, having as general objective the understanding of the active coastal dynamics in the region of Galinhos, whose specific objectives were: To study the variation of the coast line in the decades of 1954, 1967,1988, 1996, 2000, from remote sensing products; To elucidate the hypothesis of the region of Galinhos to have been an old system of islands barriers, using as basic tool the penetration radar in the soil - GPR; To monitor and to characterize the coastal dynamics of the study area starting from monthly data of beach profiles, sedimentological analysis, hydrodynamic data and environmental characterization data; which were used to feed the database of the N-NE network of Environmental Monitoring of Areas under Influence of the Petroliferous Industry;(REDE05/FINEP/CNPq/CTPETRO/ PETROBRAS). This research is justified, of the environmental point of view, by involving the mangrove ecosystem considered one of the most delicated environments of the State. From the viewpoint of the petroleum exploration, the systems of islands barriers are favorable for hydrocarbons reservoirs and, consequently important targets to the oil and gas industry, becoming this region attractive in comparison with similar lithified environments. With the results of the variability study in the position of the coast line in the Municipal district of Galinhos/RN from the analysis of remote sensing images, it was possible to investigate the changes in the coast line in temporal scale; the use of directional filters allowed to emphasize linings in the direction NE and to identify submerged features such as sandwaves. The use of GPR enabled the confirmation of paleochannels existence and thus confirmed the hypothesis that the Galinhos spit was formed from an old system of islands barriers. The results of the granulometric analyses indicated that in the summer period the sediments in the profiles A and B in the foreshore portion were classified with the granulometry of sand with scattered gravel and in the shoreface were constituted by sand, but in the winter period these same morphologic compartments were constituted by sand with sparse gravel and siltic sand respectively. In the profile C, in the summer and in the winter, the shoreface and foreshore compartments presented predominantly constituted by sand with sparse gravel. The hydrodynamic results showed that the largest wave heights were registered in the month of February (62 cm) and the highest period of 1,00 m/s in the month of May, the sense of the coastal currents was kept among the quadrants SW and NW, and the winds coming from NE were predominant. The analysis of the beach profiles demonstrated that in the profile A, although it had occurred erosion and deposition during the monitored months, the morphology of the referred profile was kept constant. In the profiles B and C, there were abrupt changes in the morphology, during the monitored months, having been identified a cyclic pattern in the features of the foreshore zone sometimes forming longitudinal sandy bars and in other times forming berm. These results evidenced, therefore, that studies of this nature are of fundamental importance for the coastal zoning, aiming subsidies to the organs managers in the closing of decisions as for the implantation of enterprises in the area, and for the industry of the petroleum through generation of information that subsidize the implementation and location of petroliferous structures adequate to this environment

Dinâmica Costeira dos Campos petrolíferos Macau/Serra, litoral setentrional do Estado do Rio Grande do Norte

This thesis describes the general behavior of the northern shore of the State of Rio Grande do Norte relating beach profile morphology with hydrodynamic and sedimentological parameters. The Macau and Serra Oil Field are inserted on this area and are under accelerated coastal erosion. At these oil fields are installed oil wells from PETROBRAS, nowadays located directly in the shoreline, under constant attacks of coastal processes (e.g. waves, tides and currents), which promote an intense morphodynamic variability of this sandy coast. The area was monitored for 24 months in three different stations (P01, P02 and P03). The methodology applied involved current techniques of beach profiles, hydrodynamical processes, remote sensing and geophysics. A synthesis of results obtained through the use of different time scales (monthly, lunar cycle, seasonal, annual) from a coastal dynamics study is presented. The average wind direction corresponded to 77ºAz (NE). The steepness of the berm and of the shoreface, as well as coastal current direction, do not present major changes, with an average of 36º for the steepness of the berm, 15º for the shoreface and 15º for the coastal current direction. This data set allows us to infer that the months of larger coastal erosion were November/2000 and April/2001, because of the largest wave parameter during this time. The months of worse coastal erosion in this area are related with the increasing wavy energy. This in turn, seems to be related to seasonal climatic variations, with the wave energy and tide currents speed increasing during months of minor precipitations (June to January). The months of worse coastal erosion were September and November, when the largest wave parameters and speed currents are measured in the area. Since these months are included on the period of minor precipitations, we related the coastal erosion to seasonal climatic variations. The results obtained during these 24 months of monitoring confirms a situation of accentuated erosion, mainly in Profile 03 (Barra do Corta-Cachorro), where the wave height, period, and coastal current speed are always larger than the values found in Profile 02 (Macau5). Probably these values are more expressive in Profile 03, because it does not present any natural structure of protection against the wave impacts, as the barrier island located at Ponta do Tubarão, or the sand banks in front of Macau5. The transport of the sediments occurs from East to West, and the sand accumulation is more pronounced on Profile 03 intertidal zone, where there are embrionary dunes in dryer months. The tidal currents speed, on the other hand, is more accentuated in the Macau5 area (Profile 02). At Ponta do Tubarão, the tidal currents presented a preferential direction for NE, at times of flood, currents and for NW, at times of ebb current; at Barra do Corta-Cachorro the direction of the currents were predominantly for NW, independent of the tide phase, coinciding with the preferential direction of the longshore current. This currents inversion at Ponta do Tubarão is attributed to the presence of the Ponta do Tubarão island barrier and by the communication channel of the lagoon with the sea. The tide currents are better observed in protected areas, as in the Ponta do Tubarão, when they present inversion in their direction accordingly to the flood and ebb tide. In open areas, as in Barra do Corta-Cachorro, the tide currents are overprinted by the longshore currents. Sediment analysis does not show important modifications in grain size related to seasonality (dry- and rainy seasons). On the foreshore and backshore zones, the sediments vary from fine to medium sand, while in the shoreface they very from fine to very sands. The grains are mostly spheres, varying from sub rounded to sub angled. Quartz is the main component alongside Feldspat and heavy minerals as accessory components. Biogenic content is also present and mainly represented by mollusks fragments. The calculated sediment transport show values around 100 m3/day. The morphodynamic studies indicated that this is a reflexive area from October to April, and intermediate from May to September. The Relative Tide Range-RTR for this area is 4 < RTR < 15, and so classified in the mixed wave-tide group. Having this exposed we can affirm that the more active natural factors in this area are the currents, followed by the tides and the winds. The anthropic factors are exclusively local and punctual (Macau and Serra Oil Field). Taking in account the economic importance of the area, as well as the intensity of coastal processes acting on this shore, it is important a continuity of the monthly environmental monitoring looking for variations on longer-period cycles. These data have been stored on the geo-referenced database of the projects MARPETRO and PETRORISCO (REDE 05), aiming to model the coastal and sea environment, susceptible to oil spills and their derivatives

Monitoramento ambiental da costa do Rio Grande do Norte com base em sensoriamento remoto e geodésia de precisão

This paper presents models of parameters of Sea Surface Layer (SSL), such as chlorophyll-a, sea surface temperature (SST), Primary Productivity (PP) and Total Suspended Matter (TSM) for the region adjacent to the continental shelf of Rio Grande do Norte (RN), Brazil. Concentrations of these parameters measured in situ were compared in time quasi-synchronous with images AQUA-MODIS between the years 2003 to 2011. Determination coefficients between samples in situ and bands reflectance sensor AQUA-MODIS were representative. From that, concentrations of SSL parameters were acquired for the continental shelf of the RN (eastern and northern) analyzing the geographic distribution of variation of these parameters between the years 2009-2012. Geographical and seasonal variations mainly influenced by global climate phenomena such as El Niño and La Niña, were found through the analysis of AQUA-MODIS images by Principal Components Analysis (PCA). Images show qualitatively the variance and availability of TSM in the regions, as well as their relationship with coastal erosion hotspots, monitored along the coast of the RN. In one of the areas identified as being of limited availability of TSM, we developed a methodology for assessment and evaluation of Digital Elevation Models (DEM) of beach surfaces (emerged and submerged sections) from the integration of topographic and bathymetric data measured in situ and accurately georeferenced compatible to studies of geomorphology and coastal dynamics of short duration. The methodology consisted of surveys with GNSS positioning operated in cinematic relative mode involved in topographic and bathymetric executed in relation to the stations of the geodetic network of the study area, which provided geodetic link to the Brazilian Geodetic System (GBS), univocal , fixed, and relatively stable over time. In this study Ponta Negra Beach, Natal / RN, was identified as a region with low variance and availability of MPS in the region off, as characterized by intense human occupation and intense coastal erosion in recent decades, which presents potential of the proposed methodology for accuracy and productivity, and the progress achieved in relation to the classical methods of surveying beach profiles

Estudo evolutivo das condições ambientais da região costeira do município de Guamaré - RN

The work concerns on the evolutionary study of the environmental conditions of the coastal area of Guamaré-RN, where was investigated the geo-environmental transformation occourred in this region, whose primordial purpose was to diagnose the changes verified in the temporary space of five decades (1950 to 2001). With the objective of evaluanting the action of the active coastal processes (currents, waves, tides and winds), in order to understand the generating mechanisms of the erosion/sedimentation, evidenced by constant morphologic changes. The adopted methodological procedure consisted of a succession of stages, involving bibliographical and cartographic study, aereal photographs study, digital treatment of images, field work (sample collection, beaches profiles, characterization of the beach environment and morfodynamics), mapping correction and laboratory analyses (granulometry). The evolutionary study of the morphologic features indicated significant variations in the studied period, mainly, in the dunes, sea terraces, variation of the shore line and tidal flat, evidencing the largest transformations in the temporary space between 1988 and 2001. The analyses of the beach profiles showed a sedimentation tendency in the area of the profiles P1, P2 and P3, however in the monitored pediod, it was observed in the referred profiles, erosive and depositionals intervals evidencing a need of more effective monitoring. The results of the granulometric analyses indicate a predominance of mean to coarse sand in the backshore and estirancy area, as in the shoreface, the analyses indicated medium to fine sand. The morfodynamic state, showed that beach of Minhoto is intermediate state, with alternancy to reflective. The areas of larger vulnerability and sensibility are the tidal flat, shore line, barrier island and mobile dunes, that actually is suffering great environmental impact with expansion of the carcinoculture, urban presence and natural impacts (erosion of the shoreline)

Monitoramento costeiro das praias de São Bento do Norte e Caiçara do Norte RN: implicações para o pólo petrolífero de Guamaré

This dissertation the results of a research developed in the area of São Bento do Norte and Caiçara do Norte, northern coast of the State of Rio Grande do Norte, during the period of June of 2000 to August of 2001, in the ambit of the projects MAMBMARÉ (CNPq/CTPETRO) and PROBRAL (CAPES/DAAD).The objective principal of this research was the characterization of the sedimentary dynamics of this coast, with base in data of coastal process (winds, currents, waves and tides), with topographical risings (beach profiles and dunes), satellite images and sedimentary analyses. The more specific objectives were accomplished the coastal monitoring of this coast, to verify the maintenance of an erosive tendency or progradacional after the groynes construction for contention of the erosion in the beach of Caiçara do Norte, as well as to verify the influence of the features of bottom of the platform interns adjacent on the pole petroliferous of Guamaré. The executed monitoramento allowed to identify that the movement of the sediments, along the year, in that area, is cyclical, reaching the largest oscillations during the months of winter (deposition) and they will summer (erosion). The sedimentologic studies indicated a general tendency for sands quartzosas, with gravel presence, moderately to good selected, with asymmetry predominantly negative. In agreement with the parameter of Dean (1957), used in the identification of the state morfodinâmico of the beaches, monitored beaches, are basically reflectivas with tendency to middlemen, what frames that space of the coast norteriograndense, as a space strongly vulnerable to erosive processes. The studies developed in the platform, it interns of this area, allowed to visualize for the first time, in large scale, the distribution of the features of the submarine bottom to the batométrico coat of 25 meters. Being pointed out the presence of a high one topographical submerged, with about 5 meters of height, 1 km of width and more than 24 meters of extension, located in the platform it interns in front of São Bento do Norte; coincident with the trend of the system of flaws of Carnaubais. This feature relay an important paper on the control of the sedimentary processes and oceanographic, as well as in the coastal evolution of this area of the RN state, and they affect the area of the pole petroliferous of Guamaré directly. These results contribute to a better knowledge of the processes in the area, and consequently as subsidies implantation of measures of coastal and environmental protection for the cities of São Bento do Norte and Caiçara do Norte, as well as to understand how the geological-sedimentary processes and oceanographic, in this area, are influencing the characteristics geoambientais of the pole petroliferous of Guamaré

Monitoramento da dinâmica costeira da praia de Ponta Negra

This dissertation includes the monitoring of coastal environmental dynamics at three points distinct from Ponta Negra beach, located on the South Coast of Natal, capital of Rio Grande do Norte, in the period June 2012 to May, 2013. For this, the following hypotheses were developed: Which actors morphodynamic and/or anthropogenic responsible for the changes in the study area? And yet, the configuration of the morphodynamic state of the beach, dissipative, reflective or intermediate? Faced with these questions , studies on the beach environment has its relevance as they may clarify the risks and responsibilities of anthropogenic intervention and also assist managers in more targeted action regarding the protection of praiais systems, since once committed, it is very difficult recover the environmental framework of the area, being greatly more feasible the development of multidisciplinary work plans that can guide human actions possible in search of an understanding to the harmonious interaction between society and the beach system. Its main goal is the understanding of the processes of coastal dynamics, methodological procedures that supported the implementation of this research were based on the object of study related literature associated with the collection of data resulting from beach profiles made monthly in spring tides (full moon), the hydrodynamic data and statistical quantification data (%) and size classification of sediment sediment after laboratory analysis. The results obtained from annual comparative tables of beach profiles, associated sedimentological analysis, indicated a positive sediment budget, tending to equilibrium for Point 01 and Point 02 negative. Have to Step 03 were added to the hydrodynamic data, which allowed also on a comparative framework, the perception of a depositional dynamics, with a tendency to decrease the accumulation of material at the end of the annual cycle. These data also allowed for the point 03, the calculation of the volume of material transported by the longshore current was around 104.280 m³/m, plus the Dean parameter which established a morphological state of the dissipative beach with specific prevalences for point 03. Thus, given the results presented in this work in a timely monitoring of coastal dynamics is expected that managers and public authorities can articulate multidisciplinary work plans, always aiming actions that seek understanding and effective commitment to the recovery of the harmonious interaction between society and Ponta Negra beach environment

Transporte longitudinal de sedimento na zona costeira de Natal/RN

The longshore sediment transport (LST) is determinant for the occurrence of morphological changes in coastal environments. Understanding their movement mechanisms and transport is an essential source of information for the project design and coastal management plans. This study aims to characterize, initially, the active hydrodynamic circulation in the study area, comprised of four beach sectors from the south coast of Natal, assessing the average annual LST obtained through three proven equations (CERC, Kamphuis and Bayram et al.), defining the best formulation for the study area in question, and analyze the seasonal variability and the decadal transport evolution. The coastal area selected for this work constitutes one of the main tourist corridors in the city, but has suffered serious damage resulting from associated effects of hydrodynamic forcings and their disorderly occupation. As a tool was used the Coastal Modelling System of Brazil (SMC-Brazil), which presents integrated a series of numerical models and a database, properly calibrated and validated for use in developing projects along the Brazilian coastline. The LST rates were obtained for 15 beach profiles distributed throughout the study area. Their extensions take into account the depth of closure calculated by Harllermeier equation, and regarding the physical properties of the sediment, typical values of sandy beaches were adopted, except for the average diameter, which was calculated through an optimization algorithm based on equilibrium profile formulation proposed by Dean. Overall, the results showed an intensification of hydrodynamic forcings under extreme sea wave conditions, especially along the headlands exist in the region. Among the analyzed equations, Bayram et al. was the most suitable for this type of application, with a predominant transport in the south-north direction and the highest rates within the order of 700.000 m3 /year to 2.000.000 m3 /year. The seasonal analysis also indicated a longitudinal transport predominance in the south to north, with the highest rates associated with the fall and winter seasons. In these periods are observed erosive beach states, which indicate a direct relationship between the sediment dynamics and the occurrence of more energetic sea states. Regarding the decadal evolution of transportation, it was found a decrease in transport rate from the 50’s to the 70’s, followed by an increase until the 2000’s, coinciding with the beginning of urbanization process in some stretches of the studied coastline.

31 ground-penetrating radar lines of Area 3 - Beach ridge plain (high wave energy) from Maxwell Bay, King George Island, Antarctic Peninsula

During a field campaign in the Austral spring 2012 the sedimentary architecture of a polar gravel-beach system at the southern coast of Potter Peninsula (Area 3) was revealed using ground-penetrating radar (GPR, Geophysical Survey Systems, Inc. SIR-3000). 31 profiles were collected using a mono-static 200 MHz antenna operated in common offset mode. Trace increment was set to 0.05 m. A differential global-positioning system (dGPS, Leica GS09) was used to obtain topographical information along the GPR lines. GPR data are provided in RADAN-Format, dGPS coordinates are provided in ascii format; projection is UTM (WGS 84, zone 21S).

Radar profiles from South Shetland Islands/Western Antarctic Peninsula

The sedimentary architecture of polar gravel-beach ridges is presented and it is shown that ridge internal geometries reflect past wave-climate conditions. Ground-penetrating radar (GPR) data obtained along the coasts of Potter Peninsula (King George Island) show that beach ridges unconformably overlie the prograding strand plain. Development of individual ridges is seen to result from multiple storms in periods of increased storm-wave impact on the coast. Strand-plain progradation, by contrast, is the result of swash sedimentation at the beach-face under persistent calm conditions. The sedimentary architecture of beach ridges in sheltered parts of the coast is characterized by seaward-dipping prograding beds, being the result of swash deposition under stormy conditions, or aggrading beds formed by wave overtopping. By contrast, ridges exposed to high-energy waves are composed of seaward- as well as landward-dipping strata, bundled by numerous erosional unconformities. These erosional unconformities are the result of sediment starvation or partial reworking of ridge material during exceptional strong storms. The number of individual ridges which are preserved from a given time interval varies along the coast depending on the morphodynamic setting: sheltered coasts are characterized by numerous small ridges, whereas fewer but larger ridges develop on exposed beaches. The frequency of ridge building ranges from decades in the low-energy settings up to 1600 years under high-energy conditions. Beach ridges in the study area cluster at 9.5, 7.5, 5.5, and below 3.5 m above the present-day storm beach. Based on radiocarbon data, this is interpreted to reflect distinct periods of increased storminess and/or shortened annual sea-ice coverage in the area of the South Shetland Islands for the times around 4.3, c. 3.1, 1.9 ka cal BP, and after 0.65 ka cal BP. Ages further indicate that even ridges at higher elevations can be subject to later reactivation and reworking. A careful investigation of the stratigraphic architecture is therefore essential prior to sampling for dating purposes.