997 resultados para Beach Surf Zone


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To understand the mechanisms that trigger changes in chlorophyll a and species composition in the phytoplankton of the surf-zone at Cassino Beach (RS), we performed two short nutrient-enrichment experiments (4–5 days each) during the summer and winter of 2010. Seawater was incubated under controlled conditions of temperature (summer 25± 3 °C, winter 18±1 °C), salinity (summer 28, winter 26) and irradiance (100 μmol m−2 s−1 ). Dissolved inorganic nutrients were added in various concentrations in the summer (silicate, Si; nitrate, N; phosphate, P) and winter (N, P) experiments. Samples were taken daily for cell counts and chlorophyll a analysis. In both experiments, chlorophyll a values and cell density showed a significant increase (mainly diatoms) in the treatments with nitrate addition, regardless of the proportion added. In the summer experiment, the largest chlorophyll a increase, approximately threefold (31.5 to 89.5 μg L−1 ), was observed in the NP treatment due to the growth of Asterionellopsis glacialis (Castracane) Round, Skeletonema tropicum Cleve, Thalassiosira sp. Cleve and Pseudo-nitzschia spp. Peragallo. The maximum growth was obtained in the SiNP treatment for S. tropicum (μ=0.7), Thalassiosira (μ= 1.9) and Pseudo-nitzschia (μ= 1.3) and in the SiN treatment for A. glacialis (μ= 1.0). In the winter experiment, the chlorophyll a content increased 4.2 and 5.5 times, respectively, in the N and NP treatments (maxima 38.8 μg L−1 and 31.5 μg L−1 ), where A. glacialis (μ= 1.7–1.9) and Cylindrotheca closterium (Ehrenberg) Reimann & J.C. Lewin (μ= 1.0–1.96) showed the highest amount of growth. These results indicate that nitrate is the most important nutrient controlling phytoplankton chlorophyll a at sandy Cassino Beach. However, the responses of different species to enrichment during the summer and winter indicated that other factors also played a role. A. glacialis, present during both seasons, presented the highest growth rate during the winter, whereas during the summer it was independent of nutrient enrichment but coincided with the lowest growth of S. tropicum. This finding suggested the occurrence of allelopathic interactions between these species. During the summer, multi-enrichment (SiNP) favoured the best growth of S. tropicum, Pseudo-nitzschia spp. and Thalassiosira sp. These results indicated that the phytoplankton composition and diversity in the surf zone of Cassino Beach are shaped by the availability of silicate and phosphorus as well as by the availability of nitrate.

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Sediment transport in the nearshore areas is an important process in deciding the coastline stability. The design and effective maintenance of navigable waterways, harbours and marine structures depend on the stability of the sediment substrate and the nature of sedimentation in the nearshore zone. The nearshore zone is a complex environment and the exact relationships existing between water motions and the resulting sediment transports are not well understood. During the rough weather season, when the sediment movement is considerable, processes occurring in the nearshore area are much less understood. Moreover, there is a general lack of field measurements, especially during the time of severe storm conditions. The increasing pressures and the concern on the preservation of the valuable coastal environment have led to the development of shore protection programmes. Conservation not only demands knowledge of what needs to be done, but also requires the basic processes to be fully understood. Considering the fragile nature of barrier beaches and intense occupancy of these areas by man, these coastal features have long been a subject of study by coastal oceanographers, geomorphologists and engineers. The present study is an attempt to understand the sediment movement in relation to beach dynamics, especially in the surf zone, along some part of Kerala coast and the response of the beaches to various forcing functions over different seasons

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Mode of access: Internet.

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Recent aircraft measurements, primarily in the extratropics, of the horizontal variance of nitrous oxide (N2O) and ozone (O3) in the middle stratosphere indicate that horizontal spectra of the tracer variance scale nearly as k−2, where k is the spatial wavenumber along the aircraft flight track [Strahan and Mahlman, 1994; Bacmeister et al., 1996]. This spectral scaling has been regarded as inconsistent with the accepted picture of stratospheric tracer motion; large-scale quasi-two-dimensional tracer advection typically yields a k−1 scaling (i.e., the classical Batchelor spectrum). In this paper it is argued that the nearly k−2 scaling seen in the measurements is a natural outcome of quasi-two-dimensional filamentation of the polar vortex edge. The accepted picture of stratospheric tracer motion can thus be retained: no additional physical processes are needed to account for deviations from the Batchelor spectrum. Our argument is based on the finite lifetime of tracer filaments and on the “singularity spectrum” associated with a one-dimensional field composed of randomly spaced jumps in concentration.

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New insights about nearshore dynamics came from studying the effects of regular storms in South Australia on drifting marine macrophytes, consequent wrack accumulation and associated fauna in beach surf zones across three different regions. This study examined whether the influence of storms may be more pronounced in sheltered coastal waters compared to more exposed coastlines where biota could have adaptations to persist in larger swell conditions. There were obvious regional differences for wrack species richness, abundances and assemblages that matched the attached floral subtidal landscape in each region. Consequently, invertebrates also differed amongst regions, which highlight the close affinity that some invertebrates have with drifting macrophytes. Fish were not so closely aligned to the regional patterns identified for wrack or invertebrates suggesting that many fish are using wrack accumulations as habitat but, being highly mobile, they may actively and constantly move into, out of and within these habitat features. Well-known beach-type models focused upon beach morphology may be more pertinent to the ecology of the surf zones offshore than previously thought, being the most consistent indicator of wrack accumulations and their fauna. This new evidence on the ecology of nearshore waters during storm versus calm weather in multiple regions and the subsequent influence on wrack-fauna associations in sandy-beach surf zones are important for future beach management, particularly when and where large wrack accumulations occur.

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"September 1984."

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"September 1982."

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New dredge-disposal techniques may serve the dual role of aiding sand by-passing across coastal inlets, and beach nourishment, provided the dredged sediments placed seaward of the surf zone move shoreward into that zone. During the summer of 1976, 26,750 cubic meters of relatively coarse sediment was dredged from New River Inlet, North Carolina, moved down coast by a split-hull barge, and placed in a 215-meter coastal reach between the 2- and 4-meter depth contours. Bathymetric changes on the disposal piles and in the adjacent beach and nearshore area were studied for a 13-week period (August to November 1976) to determine the modification of the surrounding beach and nearshore profile, and the net transport direction of the disposal sediment. The sediment piles initially created a local shoal zone with minimum depths of 0.6 meter. Disposal sediment was coarser (Mn = 0.49 millimeter) than the native sand at the disposal site (Mn = 0.14 millimeter) and coarser than the composite mean grain size of the entire profile (Mn = 0.21 millimeter). Shoaling and breaking waves caused rapid erosion of the pile tops and a gradual coalescing of the piles to form a disposal bar located seaward (= 90 meters) of a naturally occurring surf zone bar. As the disposal bar relief was reduced, the disposal bar-associated breaker zone was restricted to low tide times or periods of high wave conditions.

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This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

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Study of batch profile evolution and scouring effect due to the wave and current impacts in the coastal zone has been one of the most important issues in coastal engineering research projects during the past decades .to construct the coastal protective structures such piers, breakwaters and seawalls, it is necessary to estimate the scouring depth and bed level changes in the vicinity of such structures. Furthermore, the time - dependent changes in the equilibrium profile of the surf zone can be of great importance in designing coastal structures. Because of the importance of coastal engineering study in Iran due to the existence of two important coastal area located in the north and south parts of the country, and due to the lack of classified data in this respect (particularly the effect of sea level rise on coastal morphology) in the present study, based on the available data of Bandar Anzali region, an analysis of the coastal zone behavior is made. Bed level elevations are measured and compared with the theoretical equilibrium profile. It is shown that the behavior of the coastal zone in the region is consistent with the dean (equilibrium profile . In the next stage, following extensive investigations, the bed level changes due to a rise in sea level at different locations in the surf zone are estimated. Finally based on the results obtained for profile evolution due to sea level rise, the conclusion is made for design of coastal structures located in the study area. The results obtained from the present study indicate that the sea level rise can have a significant effect on beach profile and resulting erosion in the study area. The results are graphically presented with can be used for design purposes and establishing a data base for the coastal zone in the study region. It is believed that the present work can be regarded as a contribution to the existing knowledge of coast process in the study area and referred to as a basis for the future coastal research projects.

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The framework of sediment budget concepts provides a formalized procedure to account for the various components of sediment flux and the changes of volume that occur within a given region. Sediment budget methodology can be useful in a number of coastal engineering and research applications, including: inferring the amount of onshore sediment transport for a nearshore system that contains an "excess of sediment", determining sediment deficits to downdrift beaches as a result of engineering works at navigational entrances, evaluating the performance of a beach nourishment project, inferring the distribution of longshore sediment transport across the surf zone, etc. This chapter reviews briefly the governing equations for sediment budget calculations, considers various measurement and other bases for determining the sediment flux components necessary to apply the sediment budget concept and finally for illustration purposes, applies the sediment budget concept to several examples. (PDF contains 52 pages.)

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A estrutura da comunidade fitoplanctônica da praia da Princesa (Ilha de Maiandeua) foi estudada durante um ciclo nictemeral nos meses de novembro/08, março/09, junho/09 e setembro/09, de modo a verificar os efeitos de algumas variáveis ambientais sobre esta comunidade. O microfitoplâncton da praia da Princesa esteve representado por 98 táxons, com predomínio das diatomáceas, seguidas dos dinoflagelados e cianofíceas. Nas amostras qualitativas, Coscinodiscus perforatus Ehrenberg se destacou como abundante nos meses de março (45,6%) e junho (45,1%), enquanto que a análise quantitativa revelou Dimeregramma minor (Gregory) Ralfs como dominante, principalmente, em novembro (82,0%) e setembro (83,0%). A biomassa fitoplanctônica (clorofila-a) foi significativamente mais elevada em março (U= 0,0; p<0,05). Os valores médios de densidade fitoplanctônica total foram significativamente mais elevados no período chuvoso (F= 6,2; p<0,05), principalmente em junho (1223 ± 110 x 103 céls L-1). As curvas de K-dominância revelaram um declínio gradual na diversidade ao longo do período seco. A análise de ordenação (MDS) evidenciou a formação de três grupos, enquanto que a análise de componentes principais (PCA) mostrou a salinidade e a turbidez como as principais variáveis que definiram os componentes. A praia da Princesa é um ambiente dinâmico, onde os processos de ressuspensão promovem o intercâmbio entre populações fitoplanctônicas e fitobênticas. A elevada precipitação e o maior aporte fluvial, carreando elevadas concentrações de nutrientes, favoreceram o maior desenvolvimento do fitoplâncton, principalmente, durante o período chuvoso.