Mechanistic modelling of pilling. Part II: Individual-fibre computational model

A one-dimensional computational model of pilling of a fibre assembly has been created. The model follows a set of individual fibres, as free ends and loops appear as fuzz and arc progressively withdrawn from the body of the assembly, and entangle to form pills, which eventually break off or are pulled out. The time dependence of the computation is given by ticks, which correspond to cycles of a wear and laundering process. The movement of the fibres is treated as a reptation process. A set of standard values is used as inputs to the computation. Predictions arc given of the change with a number Of cycles of mass of fuzz, mass of pills, and mass removed from the assembly. Changes in the standard values allow sensitivity studies to be carried out.

Fibre slippage in cyclically perturbed fibrous assemblies

The dynamics of fibre slippage within general non-bonded fibrous assemblies is studied in the situation where the assembly is subjected to general small cyclic loads. Two models are proposed. The first is applicable when the general cyclic loading is complemented by an occasional tugging force on one end of a fibre, which causes it to gradually withdraw from the assembly, such as might occur during the pilling of a textile. The second considers the situation in which the cyclic perturbations act around a constant background load applied to the assembly. The dynamics is reminiscent of self-organized critical behaviour. This model is applied to predict the progressive elongation of a single yarn during weaving.

Mechanistic modelling of pilling. Part I: Detailing of mechanisms

Mechanistic models of pilling are discussed in general terms, and a framework for pilling simulations is thereby created. A fundamental flaw in earlier models of pilling is revealed. A more comprehensive model of fibre diffusion and withdrawal from the fabric is proposed, and this is solved in general terms to find the rate of fuzz growth. Fuzz wear-off and entanglement into pills are discussed. Fibre fatigue is introduced, and it is demonstrated that this potentially increases the rate of withdrawal of anchor fibres.

Eri silk fibre attributes and sliver preparation

Eri silk produced by Philosamia cynthia ricini silkworm is a fibre not well-known to the silk industry, in spite of the fact that Eri silk is finer, softer, and has better mechanical and thermal properties than most animal fibres. Eri silk has a high commercial potential, as the host plants of Eri silk worms are widespread in diverse geographical locations, and the worms also have a higher degree of disease resistance than most other silk worms. Mills are often not aware of the properties of Eri for designing appropriate end products. Thus, Eri silk yarn is traditionally produced by hand spinning, and Eri silk usually ends up as material for handwoven shawls. The potential for bulk fibre processing and the development of soft luxurious novel Eri silk products is yet to be discovered. To better understand the material and its processing behaviour, Eri silk was characterised and cocoons were processed into tops through degumming, opening, and cutting filaments into different lengths, followed by a worsted spun silk processing route. Fibre properties such as fineness, crimp, strength and length at different processing stages up to combed tops were measured. The results indicate that staple Eri silk can be processed via the worsted topmaking route, using a cut length of 200 mm or 150 mm for filament sheets prepared from degummed cocoons.

Depolymerisation and biodegradation of a synthetic tanning agent by activated sludges, the bacteria Arthrobacter globiformis and Comamonas testosteroni, and the fungus Cunninghamella polymorpha

Degradation of a synthetic tanning agent CNSF (a condensation product of 2-naphthatenesulfonic acid (2-NSA) and formaldehyde) by four activated sludges, two previously characterised bacterial strains, Arthrobacter sp. 2AC and Comamonas sp. 4BC, and the fungus Cunninghamella polymorpha, was studied in batch culture at 25 degrees C by determining the changes in the concentrations of CNSF and its component monomers and oligomers (n2-n11). The loss of individual oligomers was correlated with the length of the NSA-CH2 chain. Approximately 25% of the total CNSF was degraded (i.e. mineralised) by the microbes contained in the four activated sludges and by the two bacterial isolates but with different lag phases and at different overall rates. The decline in CNSF concentration was due almost entirely to the biodegradation of the monomers (34.3% of CNSF) and, in particular, 2-NSA (27% of CNSF). There was no change in the n2-n 11 components. The growth of C. polymorpha, on the other hand, arose from extracellular depolymerisation of CNSF oligomers and the biodegradation of the lower molecular mass products. Between 38% and 42% of total CNSF was degraded by C. polymorpha at 25 degrees C. The order of oligomer degradation was inversely related to degree of polymerisation. Eighty percent and 90% of the n4 and n5 and 100% oligomers n6-n11 were degraded after 120 h. At a higher temperature (37 degrees C) oligomers n4-n11 were degraded completely after 120 h. A combination of biodegradation (75%) and sorption to fungal biomass (25%) accounted for the measured loss of all oligomers from the solution phase. The CNSF degradation rates and the volume of fungal biomass produced (and therefore the extent of biosorption) were dependent on the presence of a second carbon source (both optimum at glucose 5 g/l). This is the first report that identifies and distinguishes between depolymerisation, sorption and biodegradation processes in the removal of CNSF and its component oligomers. The use of combinations of the depolymerising fungus C. polymorpha, and the monomer-degrading bacteria, Arthrobacter sp. 2AC and Comamonas sp. 4BC, have potential for wastewater treatment.

Biodegradation of naphthalene-2-sulfonic acid present in tannery wastewater by bacterial isolates Arthrobacter sp 2AC and Comamonas sp 4BC

Two bacterial strains, 2AC and 4BC, both capable of utilizing naphthalene-2-sulfonic acid (2-NSA) as a sole source of carbon, were isolated from activated sludges previously exposed to tannery wastewater. Enrichments were carried out in mineral salt medium (MSM) with 2-NSA as the sole carbon source. 16S rDNA sequencing analysis indicated that 2AC is an Arthrobacter sp. and 4BC is a Comamonas sp. Within 33 h, both isolates degraded 100% of 2-NSA in MSM and also 2-NSA in non-sterile tannery wastewater. The yield coefficient was 0.33 g biomass dry weight per gram of 2-NSA. A conceptual model, which describes the aerobic transformation of organic matter, was used for interpreting the biodegradation kinetics of 2-NSA. The half-lives for 2-NSA, at initial concentrations of 100 and 500 mg/l in MSM, ranged from 20 h (2AC) to 26 h (4BC) with lag-phases of 8 h (2AC) and 12 h (4BC). The carbon balance indicates that 75-90% of the initial TOC (total organic carbon) was mineralized, 5-20% remained as DOC (dissolved organic carbon) and 3-10% was biomass carbon. The principal metabolite of 2-NSA biodegradation (in both MSM and tannery wastewater) produced by Comamonas sp. 4BC had a MW of 174 and accounted for the residual DOC (7.0-19.0% of the initial TOC and 66% of the remaining TOC). Three to ten percent of the initial TOC (33% of the remaining TOC) was associated with biomass. The metabolite was not detected when Arthrobacter sp. 2AC was used, and a lower residual DOC and biomass carbon were recorded. This suggests that the two strains may use different catabolic pathways for 2-NSA degradation. The rapid biodegradation of 2-NSA (100 mg/l) added to non-sterile tannery wastewater (total 2-NSA, 105 mg/l) when inoculated with either Arthrobacter 2AC or Comamonas 4BC showed that both strains were able to compete with the indigenous microorganisms and degrade 2-NSA even in the presence of alternate carbon sources (DOC in tannery wastewater = 91 mg/l). The results provide information useful for the rational design of bioreactors for tannery wastewater treatment.

Image processing and pattern recognition in textiles

Image processing and pattern recognition have been successfully applied in many textile related areas. For example, they have been used in defect detection of cotton fibers and various fabrics. In this work, the application of image processing into animal fiber classification is discussed. Integrated into / with artificial neural networks, the image processing technique has provided a useful tool to solve complex problems in textile technology. Three different approaches are used in this work forfiber classification and pattern recognition: feature extraction with image process, pattern recognition and classification with artificial neural networks, and feature recognition and classification with artificial neural network. All of them yieldssatisfactory results by giving a high level of accuracy in classification.

Processing and quality of cashmere tops for ultra-fine wool worsted blend fabrics

This study has focussed on three main areas. First, an evaluation of the physical attributes of cashmere tops available to commercial spinners; second, the influence of processing variables on the efficiency of producing cashmere tops from raw Australian cashmere; and third, the influence of design of cashmere ultrafine wool blends on the fibre curvature of tops. Testing the physical attributes of cashmere tops from traditional and new sources of supply, was followed by statistical analyses based on factors of origin, processor and other determinants. The analyses demonstrated important processor effects and also that cashmere from different origins shows commercially important variations in fibre attributes. It was possible to efficiently produce Australian cashmere tops with Hauteur, tenacity, extension, softness and residual guard hairs quality attributes equivalent to those observed in the best cashmere tops. The blending of cashmere with wool resulted in a reduction of the mean fibre curvature of the blend compared with the unblended wool. The present work demonstrated that the fibre curvature properties of blended low crimp ultrafine wool tops were closer to the properties of pure cashmere tops than were tops made from blended standard high crimp ultrafine wool. The attributes of textiles made from the relatively rare Australian low curvature cashmere could enhance the marketability of both Australian cashmere and low curvature wool.

Properties, processing and performance of rare and natural fibres : a review and interpretation of existing research results

A substantial up-to-date reference manual has been prepared which documents important issues for the supply chain of rare natural animal fibres. New developments in textiles have been included. Cashmere, mohair and camelid fibres have special properties of softness, smoothness and lustre, when compared with sheep wool. They also have other attributes which affect market prices and consumer perceptions, such as being rare and exotic luxuries, and are associated with expensive, comfortable and exclusive garments. These fibres add to the range of wool processing, and add value to wool textiles. Generally, knowledge about these animal fibres is limited, and research effort small compared with research into wool and other natural and man-made fibres. Compared with wool, rare natural animal fibres are more difficult and costly to process. Knowledge about processing these fibres is kept guarded as industrial knowledge. There are problems with clearly identifying rare natural animal fibres when goods are traded or fibres are blended, and fraud is a major concern for textile manufacturers and industry groups. Prickle discomfort in mohair and alpaca next-to-skin wear is a major concern for consumers and textile manufacturers. Natural colours, whiteness and yellowness of rare natural animal fibres are important fibre attributes for dyers and consumers, and the current products have both positive and negative colour attributes for processors. Past investments by RIRDC have made substantial gains in knowledge about fundamental and applied areas of knowledge on the properties, testing and processing performance of rare natural animal fibres.

Effects of food processing and fibre content on the digestibility, energy intake and biochemical parameters of Blue-and-gold macaws (Ara ararauna L. - Aves, Psittacidae)

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