Influence of stocking rate and mixed grazing of Angora goats and Merino sheep on animal and pasture production in southern Australia : 3 : mohair and wool production and quality

The effects of animal species (AS; Angora goats, Merino sheep, mixed-grazed goats and sheep at the ratio of 1:1) and stocking rate (SR; 7.5, 10 and 12.5 animals/ha) on fibre production and quality were determined in a replicated experiment on improved annual temperate pastures in southern Australia from 1981 to 1984. Separately grazed sheep produced the most total clean fibre/ha at each SR. Mixed-grazed treatments produced amounts of clean fibre/ha similar to the arithmetic mean of sheep and goat treatments at 7.5/ha (21.9 versus 21.3 kg/ha), 10% more at 10/ha (28.3 versus 25.3 kg/ha, P < 0.05) and 7% more at 12.5/ha (31.6 versus 29.6 kg/ha, P < 0.10). Clean wool production/head was affected by AS and SR but not year. Clean mohair production was affected by SR and year but not AS. Variation in mean fibre diameter (MFD) accounted for 67 and 71%, respectively, of the variation in clean wool and clean mohair production/head. There was an AS SR interaction for clean fibre production/t pasture. Growth rate of mohair was highest in autumn and least in summer. In each season, an increase in the SR reduced the clean mohair growth rate. Growth rate of wool was highest in spring and least in summer. Wool and mohair MFD were affected by an AS SR interaction. Mohair MFD was also affected by year and season. At 10/ha, wool from mixed-grazed sheep had a greater MFD than wool from separately grazed sheep (20.2 versus 18.9 μm) and mixed-grazed goats grew mohair 1 μm coarser than separately grazed goats. At 12.5/ha mixed-grazed goats grew mohair 1.9 μm finer than separately grazed goats. Mohair MFD was predicted by a multiple regression that included average liveweight for the period of fleece growth, season of growth (summer 1 μm finer than winter) and year (range 1.27 μm). Mohair MFD increased 4.7 μm/10 kg increase in average fleece-free liveweight (P = 6.4 10-14). Fleece-free liveweight alone accounted for 76.4% of the variation in mohair MFD. There was an AS SR interaction for the incidence of kemp and medullated fibres; under severe grazing pressure their incidence was suppressed. This experiment indicated that the principles associated with the effects of SR on wool production on annual temperate pastures apply to mohair production. Mixed grazing of Merino sheep and Angora goats produced complementary and competitive effects depending on the SR. Angora goats should not be grazed alone or mixed-grazed with sheep on annual temperate pastures at SR greater than that recommended for Merino sheep.

A correlation study of subjective sensorial evaluation and objective softness measurement of wool fabrics

Comfort is one of the most important aspects of clothing, especially for next-to-skin garments such as shirts and trousers for summer. Sensorial comfort has a strong relationship with both the mechanical and surface properties of apparel fabric. A comfortable textile material should have properties of softness, smooth surface or texture, be pleasant to touch and very flexible. When assessing fabric handle subjectively, the assessor usually strokes the fabric surface with one or several fingers and squash the fabric gently in hand. Thus, the perception of such handle includes complex parameters of compression, tactile sensation and textural effect. In this work, we attempted to use a simple technique of objectively evaluating fabric softness related properties, by measuring the force required to pull a fabric strip through a series of parallel pins (the pulling force). We also subjectively rated the fabric handle. The correlation analysis showed very good agreement between the fabric pulling force and subjective hand rating.

An investigation into the ion-exchange properties of chemically modified wool for use in water treatment and chromatography

This study was undertaken to investigate the suitability of natural and chemically treated wool fibres for use in water treatment and in the separation of constituents for monitoring contaminants in water.

Experimental work was carried out to determine the ability of natural and treated wool fibres to remove these constituents from water,

This study provided information on the characteristics of the wool fibre as a medium in water treatment.

Blend films of natural wool and cellulose prepared from an ionic liquid

Natural wool/cellulose blends were prepared in an ionic liquid green solvent, 1-butyl-3-methylimidazolium chloride (BMIMCl) and the films were formed subsequently from the coagulated solutions. The wool/cellulose blend films show significant improvement in thermal stability compared to the coagulated wool and cellulose. Moreover, the blend films exhibited an increasing trend of tensile strength with increase in cellulose content in the blends which could be used for the development of wool-based materials with improved mechanical properties, and the elongations of the blends were considerably improved with respect to the coagulated films of wool and cellulose. It was found that there was hydrogen bonding interaction between hydroxyl groups of wool and cellulose in the coagulated wool/cellulose blends as determined by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The ionic liquid was completely recycled with high yield and purity after the blend film was prepared. This work presents a green processing route for development of novel renewable blended materials from natural resource with improved properties.

Measuring colour and photostability of small fleece wool samples

A convenient method for measuring the clean colour (Y and Y-Z) and photostability Δ(Y-Z) of small samples of fleece wool (0.5 g) is described. Scoured wool samples are compressed to a constant density in disposable polymethyl methacrylate spectrophotometer cells and the wool colour is measured using a standard textile laboratory reflectance spectrophotometer. Packing scoured wool into cells ensures that the irradiated fibre surface is robust and individual fibres are unable to move relative to one another during irradiation and measurement. A UVB (280–320 nm) source was used to ensure all samples regardless of initial yellowness were yellowed following exposure and photobleaching was avoided. An apparatus capable of irradiating up to 48 scoured wool samples in one batch is described. The precision of photostability measurements was assessed and the relative error in Δ(Y-Z) was 5.7%. An initial study on 75 fleece wool samples with a high range of initial yellowness showed a moderate linear correlation (R² = 0.68) between initial yellowness and Δ(Y-Z).

Sunlight exposure caused yellowing and increased mineral content in wool

This study determines how levels of various trace metals in wool and the colour of the fibre change as a result of sunlight exposure and treatment with chelating compounds during wool growth. Twenty-four yearling Merino sheep were clipped on the shoulders and rumps and fitted with sheep coats modified with transparent patches. Patches over the shoulder wool (one per sheep) were either polyethylene (PE) that transmits ultraviolet light or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) that excludes ultraviolet light. The rump wool on each sheep was treated either with a copper chelator treatment (kojic acid or methyl gentisate in aqueous alcohol) or aqueous alcohol only. For 12 of the sheep the rumps were exposed to sunlight through PE patches while rump wool on the other sheep was covered by the sheep coat. Wool was harvested after 11 weeks’ growth with yellowness (Y-Z) and individual mineral contents measured using the same clean wool sample. Sunlight exposure through PE patches caused a mean increase in Y-Z to 9.1 (shoulder) or 9.5–10.1 (rump) from a base level of 7.1–7.2 (shoulder) or 7.0–7.6 (rump) in wool protected by the sheep coat. In contrast, there was no significant change in Y-Z for the PVC patch (shoulder). Therefore, it appears that ultraviolet light damage caused the increased Y-Z. Most of the trace metals analysed increased in the shoulder wool exposed to sunlight but the paired differences for PVC were lower than PE. It appears that changes in fibre caused by sunlight exposure (especially ultraviolet light) facilitate adsorption of minerals from the environment, including the animal’s own suint. Application of the chelating compounds to the rump wool caused pronounced yellowing of the wool with Y-Z increase being most pronounced for kojic acid. Copper levels in the wool were reduced by kojic acid and methyl gentisate while calcium levels were increased by kojic acid and reduced by methyl gentisate. It is not clear from these findings whether minerals and copper in particular contribute to yellowing of wool. However, the different effects of sunlight and chelation on mineral contents in wool shown may well relate to alternative mechanisms of discoloration (i.e. photoyellowing versus bacterial).

Study into the ultrasonic cleaning of wool

This research studied the use of ultrasonic irradiation during wool cleaning with an aim to improve the cleaning process and reduce its impact on the environment. The research found that ultrasonic cleaning reduced energy, detergent and chemicals consumption, reduced fibre entanglement and had no significant effect on fibre properties.

Dyeing properties of PVA/superfine wool powder blend filaments

Polyvinyl alcohol/superfine wool powder blend filaments were prepared to improve teh dyeing properties of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) filaments. The average size of superfine wool powder was 2.01 um. SEM microphotgraphs showed good compatibility between superfine wool powder and PVA matrix. The PVA/superfine wool powder blend solution showed good spinningability. With the incerease in superfine wool powder content, the dye uptake, a* value and K/S value of PVA/superfine wool powder blend filaments increased steadily. It was worth noting that the dyeing properties of blend filaments were almost similar with that of superfine wool powder when powder content was 33.3%

Photochromic wool fabric by sol-gel coating and photochromism

The application of photochromism in textiles has potential to create new opportunities to develop fancy colour-changing effects in fashionable textiles, as well as smart garments capable of protecting wearers from the effects of UV irradiation and responding to environmental changes. This book presents a coating method for achieving quick and obvious photochromic effects on wool fabrics using conventional photochromic dyes and hybrid silicas. It covers details about fabricating different types of photochromic dye-silica coatings, measuring their optical performance, assessing some physical characterisations of the coatings, and measuring the effects of the coatings on fabric performance.

Prediction of wool knitwear pilling propensity using data mining techniques

This thesis examined the application of data mining techniques to the issue of predicting pilling propensity of wool knitwear. Using real industrial data, a pilling propensity prediction tool with embedded trained support vector machines is developed to provide high accuracy prediction to wool knitwear even before the yarn is spun!

Ultrasonic treatment of wool

These ultrasonic cleaning trial results for stain removal and fibre property changes look at wool scouring and laundering, and examine the use of ultrasonic irradiation during wool cleaning with an aim to improve the cleaning process and reduce its impact on the environment. It contains fibre images, single fibre tensile and bending abrasion results.

Use of low-level plasma for enhancing the shrink resistance of wool fabric treated with a silicone polymer

This study examines the effects of an atmospheric pressure plasma (APP) pre-treatment on the shrink resistance of wool fabric treated subsequently, by the pad/dry method, with an aqueous emulsion of the amino-functional polydimethylsiloxane, SM 8709. Optimal shrink resistance (with no impairment of fabric handle) was obtained after a low-level plasma treatment (1-3 s exposure time), using 5% of the polymer emulsion. Higher levels of silicone polymer could be used to achieve shrink resistance in the absence of a plasma pre-treatment, but the fabric handle would be adversely affected. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) studies showed that the bulk of the covalently bound surface lipid layer was removed after a plasma exposure time of 30 s. For treatment times of 3 s or less, however, the removal was incomplete, suggesting that optimum shrink resistance (after treatment with the silicone polymer) was associated with the modification of the surface layer rather than its complete destruction. Scanning electron micrographs (SEMs) revealed that the plasma pre-treatment did not lead to any physical modifications (such as smoothening of the scale edges), even for long exposure times, and had no significant impact on the extent or nature of the inter-fibre bonding of the polymer. Confocal microscopy showed uniform spread of polymer on single fibres. It is concluded that the main impact of the plasma pre-treatment was to enhance the distribution of polymer both on and between fibres and to improve adhesion of polymer to the fibre.

Ultrasonic scouring of wool and its effects on fibre breakage during carding

Ultrasonics has shown the potential to reduce the cost and environmental impact of textile processing. This work investigates the impact of ultrasonic scouring on fibre entanglement caused during the scouring process. Levels of fibre entanglement were quantified by measuring fibre length using OFDA4000 after carding. A significant reduction in fibre entanglement after ultrasonic scouring was observed and this was due to a reduced fibre migration in the wash bath when compared with the mechanical agitation seen in conventional scouring process. Fibre cuticle scale damage resulting from the ultrasonic irradiation may also have contributed to the reduction in fibre entanglement. A reduced level of fibre entanglement from ultrasonic wool scouring leads to a reduction in fibre breakage during carding.