Auxetic effect of natural fiber knitted fabrics

Since they present a negative Poisson's radio, auxetic materials are different from conventional ones. These materials present an unusual behaviour: when stretched (elongated in the longitudinal direction), their cross-section is increased. There are two different ways to obtain auxetic materials: through polymers or through structures. It is possible to affirm that those obtained through fibrous structures are very recent and that few authors have been dedicated to their study. The main objective of this work is to study the effect of the negative Poisson

Acabamentos químicos em tecidos

Dissertação de mestrado em Técnicas de Caracterização e Análise Química

Contribution to an efficient transmission of information to the textile fashion consumer and the influence in sustainable attitudes

The concepts involved in sustainable textile fashion, demanding good knowledge about raw materials, processes, end use properties and circuits amongst others, are able to determine the way the textile product is designed and the behavior of the consumer, regarding life style and buying decisions. The textile product`s life integrates raw materials, their processing, distribution, use by the consumer and destination of the product after useful lifetime, this is, his complete life cycle. It is very important to recognize the power of the consumer to influence parameters related to sustainability, namely when he decides how, when and why he buys and afterwards by the attitudes taken during and after use. The conscious act of consumption involves ethical, ecological and technical knowledge in which the concern is overall lifecycle of the fashion product and not exclusively aesthetic and symbolic values strongly related with its ephemeral nature. The present work proposes the classification of textile products by means of an innovative label aiming to establish a rating related to the Life of Fashion Products, by using parameters considered with especial impact in lifecycle, as textile fibers, processing conditions, generated wastes, commercialization circuits, durability and cleaning procedures. This label for sustainable fashion products aims to assist the stakeholders with informed attitudes and correct decisions in order to promote the objectives of sustainable fashion near designers, consumers and industrial experts.

Degradación de efluentes de las industrias del cuero y textil mediante procesos fotocatalíticos heterogéneos empleando la luz solar. Degradation of effluents from the leather and textile industries through heterogeneous photocatalytic processes using sunlight.

El creciente desarrollo de la industria del cuero y textil en nuestro país, y específicamente en la provincia de Córdoba, ha hecho resurgir en los ultimos años una problemática aún no resuelta que es la elevada contaminación de los recursos hídricos. En ambas industrias, la operación de teñido involucra principalmente colorantes de tipo azoico los cuales son "no biodegradables" y se fragmentan liberando aminas aromáticas cancerígenas. Para abordar esta problemática, la fotocatálisis heterogénea aparece como una nueva tecnología que permitiría la completa mineralización de estos colorantes. A través de radiación y un fotocatalizador sólido adecuado se pueden generan radicales libres eficientes para la oxidación de materia orgánica (colorantes) en medio acuoso. En este sentido, se proponen tamices moleculares mesoporosos modificados con metales de transición (MT) como fotocatalizadores potencialmente aptos para la degradación de estos contaminantes. El propósito principal de este proyecto es el diseño, síntesis, caracterización y evaluación de materiales mesoporosos que presenten actividad fotocatalítica ya sea mediante la modificación de su estructura con diversos metales fotosensibles y/o empleándolos como soporte de óxido de titanio. Se pretende evaluar estos materiales en la degradación de colorantes intentando desplazar su fotosensibilidad hacia la radiación visible para desarrollar nuevas tecnologías con menor impacto ambiental y mayor aprovechamiento de la energía solar. Para ello se sintetizarán materiales del tipo MCM-41 modificados con distintos MT tales como Fe, Cr, Co, Ni y Zn mediante incorporación directa del ión metálico o impregnación. Al mismo tiempo, tanto estos últimos materiales como el MCM-41 silíceo serán empleados como soporte de TiO2. Sus propiedades fisicoquímicas se caracterizarán mediante distintas técnicas instrumentales y su actividad fotocatalítica se evaluará en la degradación de colorantes azoicos bajo radiación visible. Se seleccionará el catalizador más eficiente y se estudiarán los diversos factores que afectan el proceso de fotodegradación. Así mismo, el análisis de la concentración del colorante y los productos presentes en el medio en función del tiempo de reacción permitirá inferir sobre la cinética de la decoloración y postular posibles mecanismos de fotodegradación. Con esta propuesta se espera contribuír al desarrollo de un sector industrial importante en nuestra provincia como es el de las industrias del cuero y textil, mediante la generación de nuevas tecnologías que empleen la energía solar para la degradación de sus efluentes (colorantes). En este sentido, se espera desarrollar nuevos materiales optimizados para lograr la mayor eficiencia fotocatalítica. Esto conduciría entonces hacia la remediación de un problema ambiental de alto impacto tanto para nuestra provincia y nuestro país como para la población mundial, como es la contaminación de los recursos hídricos. Finalmente, con este proyecto se contribuirá a la formación de dos doctorandos y un maestrando, cuyos temas de tesis están vinculados con nuestro objeto de estudio. The increasing development of the textile and leather industries in our country, and specifically in Córdoba, has revived an unresolved problem that is the high contamination of water resources. In both industries, the dyeing involves mainly type azoic dyes which are not biodegradable and break releasing carcinogenic aromatic amines. Heterogeneous photocatalysis appears as a new technology that would allow the complete mineralization of these pollutants. Through radiation and a suitable solid it is possible to generate free radicals for efficient oxidation of organic matter (dyes) in aqueous medium. In this respect, mesoporous molecular sieves modified with transition metals are proposed as potential photocatalysts. The main purpose of this project is the synthesis of mesoporous materials having photocatalytic activity for the degradation of dyes. We will try to move their photosensitivity to visible radiation to develop new technologies with lower environmental impact and greater use of solar energy. Materials MCM-41 modified with metals (Fe, Cr, Co, Ni and Zn) will be synthesized by direct incorporation or impregnation. These materials and the siliceous MCM-41 will be then employed as support of TiO2. The materials will be evaluated in the photocatalytic degradation of azoic dyes under visible radiation. The influence of different factors on the photodegradation proccess will be studied. Kinetic studies will be carried out and a possible reaction way will be proposed. Thus, this work will contribute to the advancement of an important industrial sector and the remediation of an environmental problem with high impact for our province and our country. Moreover, this proyect will contribute to the development of two doctoral tesis and one magister tesis which are vinculated with our study subject.

In search of a language textile and text in contemporary women's art

This research uses the textile/text axis concept as a conceptual tool to investigate the role of textile and text in contemporary women’s art practice and theorizing, investigating textile as a largely hitherto unacknowledged element in women’s art practice of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Textile and text share a common etymological root, from the Latin textere to weave, textus a fabric. The thesis illuminates the pathways whereby textile and text played an important role in women reclaiming a speaking voice as creators of culture and signification during a revolutionary period of renewal in women’s cultural contribution and positioning. The methodological approach used in the research consisted of a comprehensive literature review, the compilation of an inventory of relevant women artists, developing a classificatory system differentiating types of approaches, concerns and concepts underpinning women’s art practice vis a vis the textile/text axis and a series of three in-depth case studies of artists Tracey Emin, Louise Bourgeois and Faith Ringgold. The thesis points to the fact that contemporary women artists and theorists have rounded their art practice and aesthetic discourse in textile as prime visual metaphor and signifier, turning towards the ancient language of textile not merely to reclaim a speaking voice but to occupy a ground breaking locus of signification and representation in contemporary culture. The textile/text axis facilitated women artists in powerfully countering a culturally inscribed status of Lacanian ‘no-woman’ (a position of abjection, absence and lack in the phallocentric symbolic). Turning towards a language of aeons, textile as fertile wellspring, the thesis identifies the methodologies and strategies whereby women artists have inserted their webs of subjectivities and deepest concerns into the records and discourses of contemporary culture. Presenting an anatomy of the textile/text axis, the thesis identifies nine component elements manifesting in contemporary women’s aesthetic practice and discourse. In this cultural renaissance, the textile/text axis, the thesis suggests, served as a complex lexicon, a system of labyrinthine references and signification, a site of layered meanings and ambiguities, a body proxy and a corporeal cartography, facilitating a revolution in women’s aesthetic praxis.

The Discrimination of Colored Acrylic, Cotton, and Wool Textile Fibers Using Micro-Raman Spectroscopy. Part 1 : In Situ Detection and Characterization of Dyes

Raman spectroscopy has been applied to characterize fiber dyes and determine the discriminating ability of the method. Black, blue, and red acrylic, cotton, and wool samples were analyzed. Four excitation sources were used to obtain complementary responses in the case of fluorescent samples. Fibers that did not provide informative spectra using a given laser were usually detected using another wavelength. For any colored acrylic, the 633-nm laser did not provide Raman information. The 514-nm laser provided the highest discrimination for blue and black cotton, but half of the blue cottons produced noninformative spectra. The 830-nm laser exhibited the highest discrimination for red cotton. Both visible lasers provided the highest discrimination for black and blue wool, and NIR lasers produced remarkable separation for red and black wool. This study shows that the discriminating ability of Raman spectroscopy depends on the fiber type, color, and the laser wavelength.

An introductory review on gravitational-deformation induced structures, fabrics and modeling

Recent studies have pointed out a similarity between tectonics and slope tectonic-induced structures. Numerous studies have demonstrated that structures and fabrics previously interpreted as of purely geodynamical origin are instead the result of large slope deformation, and this led in the past to erroneous interpretations. Nevertheless, their limit seems not clearly defined, but it is somehow transitional. Some studies point out continuity between failures developing at surface with upper crust movements. In this contribution, the main studies which examine the link between rock structures and slope movements are reviewed. The aspects regarding model and scale of observation are discussed together with the role of pre-existing weaknesses in the rock mass. As slope failures can develop through progressive failure, structures and their changes in time and space can be recognized. Furthermore, recognition of the origin of these structures can help in avoiding misinterpretations of regional geology. This also suggests the importance of integrating different slope movement classifications based on distribution and pattern of deformation and the application of structural geology techniques. A structural geology approach in the landslide community is a tool that can greatly support the hazard quantification and related risks, because most of the physical parameters, which are used for landslide modeling, are derived from geotechnical tests or the emerging geophysical approaches.

Quantifying rock fabrics: a test of autocorrelation of the spatial distribution of cristals

A novel test of spatial independence of the distribution of crystals or phases in rocksbased on compositional statistics is introduced. It improves and generalizes the commonjoins-count statistics known from map analysis in geographic information systems.Assigning phases independently to objects in RD is modelled by a single-trial multinomialrandom function Z(x), where the probabilities of phases add to one and areexplicitly modelled as compositions in the K-part simplex SK. Thus, apparent inconsistenciesof the tests based on the conventional joins{count statistics and their possiblycontradictory interpretations are avoided. In practical applications we assume that theprobabilities of phases do not depend on the location but are identical everywhere inthe domain of de nition. Thus, the model involves the sum of r independent identicalmultinomial distributed 1-trial random variables which is an r-trial multinomialdistributed random variable. The probabilities of the distribution of the r counts canbe considered as a composition in the Q-part simplex SQ. They span the so calledHardy-Weinberg manifold H that is proved to be a K-1-affine subspace of SQ. This isa generalisation of the well-known Hardy-Weinberg law of genetics. If the assignmentof phases accounts for some kind of spatial dependence, then the r-trial probabilitiesdo not remain on H. This suggests the use of the Aitchison distance between observedprobabilities to H to test dependence. Moreover, when there is a spatial uctuation ofthe multinomial probabilities, the observed r-trial probabilities move on H. This shiftcan be used as to check for these uctuations. A practical procedure and an algorithmto perform the test have been developed. Some cases applied to simulated and realdata are presented.Key words: Spatial distribution of crystals in rocks, spatial distribution of phases,joins-count statistics, multinomial distribution, Hardy-Weinberg law, Hardy-Weinbergmanifold, Aitchison geometry

Geographical effects on the accuracy of textile trade data:an international approach for 1913

Foreign trade statistics are the main data source to the study of international trade.However its accuracy has been under suspicion since Morgernstern published hisfamous work in 1963. Federico and Tena (1991) have resumed the question arguing thatthey can be useful in an adequate level of aggregation. But the geographical assignmentproblem remains unsolved. This article focuses on the spatial variable through theanalysis of the reliability of textile international data for 1913. A geographical biasarises between export and import series, but because of its quantitative importance it canbe negligible in an international scale.

Wage structures and family economies in the Catalan textile industry in an age of nascent capitalism

This paper deals with changes in managerial practices in Catalonia in anage of nascent capitalism (1830-1925) and adaptive family strategies inorder to face the absence of state welfare. During the 19 t h Century andin the absence of recorded labor contracts, human resources of the firmwere organized by means of implicit contracts and informal labor markets.With the advent of scientific organization of labor, wage per hour workedbegan to be recorded. This is why in the 1920s the perfect competitionmodel applies to our case. On the other hand, in the same period, and inthe absence of state welfare, ideas stemming from cooperative game theoryapply to the pattern of household income formation. Kin related networkswere used to improve the living standards of the household. In thisparticular direction we also show that there was a demonstration effectby means of which migrant s living standards were higher than those ofnatives.

Labour market in the Catalan cotton textile sector: Employment and fertility (1850-1913)

This paper deals whit the dynamics of the Catalan textile labour market (theSpanish region that concentrated most of the industrial and factory activity duringthe 19 Century) and offers hypotheses and results on the impact it had on livingstandards and fertility levels. We observe the formation of an uneven labourmarket in which male supply for labour (excluding women and children) grewmuch faster than the demand. We stress the fact that labour supply is verydependant on institutional factors liked to the transmition of household propertybetween generations. Instead the slow path of growth of adult males demand forlabour is witnessing the limits of this industry to expand and to compete ininternational markets. The strategy of working class families to adapt to scarceopportunities of employment we document here is the diminution of legitimatefertility levels. Fertility control is the direct instrument we think workers have tocontrol their number in a situation that was likely to create labour surpluses in theshort and mid run.

Cotton manufacturers as bankers: the textile trade and credit in spain, 1840-1913

[cat] La historiografia ha assenyalat que en el segle XIX el crèdit que els fabricants cotoners catalans oferien als seus clients era de caràcter informal i, per tant, impossible de ser transferit al sistema bancari. Això hauria tingut un efecte negatiu en la rendibilitat de les empreses cotoneres. A partir de l’anàlisi de diversos arxius empresarials, així com de fonts judicials i notarials, aquest treball confirma aquesta descripció dels fets però proposa una interpretació més optimista. Els fabricants feien de banquers dels seus clients perquè eren els millor situats per a exercir aquesta funció. Havien construït una bona estructura d’informació, gestionaven eficientment el risc creditici i obtenien beneficis d’aquesta activitat.