994 resultados para Surface waves (Oceanography)


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The sea state of the Beaufort and Chukchi seas is controlled by the wind forcing and the amount of ice-free water available to generate surface waves. Clear trends in the annual duration of the open water season and in the extent of the seasonal sea ice minimum suggest that the sea state should be increasing, independent of changes in the wind forcing. Wave model hindcasts from four selected years spanning recent conditions are consistent with this expectation. In particular, larger waves are more common in years with less summer sea ice and/or a longer open water season, and peak wave periods are generally longer. The increase in wave energy may affect both the coastal zones and the remaining summer ice pack, as well as delay the autumn ice-edge advance. However, trends in the amount of wave energy impinging on the ice-edge are inconclusive, and the associated processes, especially in the autumn period of new ice formation, have yet to be well-described by in situ observations. There is an implicit trend and evidence for increasing wave energy along the coast of northern Alaska, and this coastal signal is corroborated by satellite altimeter estimates of wave energy.

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Turbulent fluctuations in the vicinity of the water free surface along a flat, vertically oriented surface-piercing plate are studied experimentally using a laboratory-scale experiment. In this experiment, a meter-wide stainless steel belt travels horizontally in a loop around two rollers with vertically oriented axes, which are separated by 7.5 meters. This belt device is mounted inside a large water tank with the water level set just below the top edge of the belt. The belt, rollers, and supporting frame are contained within a sheet metal box to keep the device dry except for one 6-meter-long straight test section between rollers. The belt is launched from rest with an acceleration of up to 3-g in order to quickly reach steady state velocity. This creates a temporally evolving boundary layer analogous to the spatially evolving boundary layer created along a flat-sided ship moving at the same velocity, with a length equivalent to the length of belt that has passed the measurement region since the belt motion began. Surface profile measurements in planes normal to the belt surface are conducted using cinematic Laser Induced Fluorescence and quantitative surface profiles are extracted at each instant in time. Using these measurements, free surface fluctuations are examined and the propagation behavior of these free surface ripples is studied. It is found that free surface fluctuations are generated in a region close to the belt surface, where sub-surface velocity fluctuations influence the behavior of these free surface features. These rapidly-changing surface features close to the belt appear to lead to the generation of freely-propagating waves far from the belt, outside the influence of the boundary layer. Sub-surface PIV measurements are performed in order to study the modification of the boundary layer flow field due to the effects of the water free surface. Cinematic planar PIV measurements are performed in horizontal planes parallel to the free surface by imaging the flow from underneath the tank, providing streamwise and wall-normal velocity fields. Additional planar PIV experiments are performed in vertical planes parallel to the belt surface in order to study the bahvior of streamwise and vertical velocity fields. It is found that the boundary layer grows rapidly near the free surface, leading to an overall thicker boundary layer close to the surface. This rapid boundary layer growth appears to be linked to a process of free surface bursting, the sudden onset of free surface fluctuations. Cinematic white light movies are recorded from beneath the water surface in order to determine the onset location of air entrainment. In addition, qualitative observations of these processes are made in order to determine the mechanisms leading to air entrainment present in this flow.

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Among the many types of noise observed in seismic land acquisition there is one produced by surface waves called Ground Roll that is a particular type of Rayleigh wave which characteristics are high amplitude, low frequency and low velocity (generating a cone with high dip). Ground roll contaminates the relevant signals and can mask the relevant information, carried by waves scattered in deeper regions of the geological layers. In this thesis, we will present a method that attenuates the ground roll. The technique consists in to decompose the seismogram in a basis of curvelet functions that are localized in time, in frequency, and also, incorporate an angular orientation. These characteristics allow to construct a curvelet filter that takes in consideration the localization of denoise in scales, times and angles in the seismogram. The method was tested with real data and the results were very good

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This dissertation aims at developing advanced analytical tools able to model surface waves propagating in elastic metasurfaces. In particular, four different objectives are defined and pursued throughout this work to enrich the description of the metasurface dynamics. First, a theoretical framework is developed to describe the dispersion properties of a seismic metasurface composed of discrete resonators placed on a porous medium considering part of it fully saturated. Such a model combines classical elasticity theory, Biot’s poroelasticity and an effective medium approach to describe the metasurface dynamics and its coupling with the poroelastic substrate. Second, an exact formulation based on the multiple scattering theory is developed to extend the two-dimensional classical Lamb’s problem to the case of an elastic half-space coupled to an arbitrary number of discrete surface resonators. To this purpose, the incident wavefield generated by a harmonic source and the scattered field generated by each resonator are calculated. The substrate wavefield is then obtained as solutions of the coupled problem due to the interference of the incident field and the multiple scattered fields of the oscillators. Third, the above discussed formulation is extended to three-dimensional contexts. The purpose here is to investigate the dynamic behavior and the topological properties of quasiperiodic elastic metasurfaces. Finally, the multiple scattering formulation is extended to model flexural metasurfaces, i.e., an array of thin plates. To this end, the resonant plates are modeled by means of their equivalent impedance, derived by exploiting the Kirchhoff plate theory. The proposed formulation permits the treatment of a general flexural metasurface, with no limitation on the number of plates and the configuration taken into account. Overall, the proposed analytical tools could pave the way for a better understanding of metasurface dynamics and their implementation in engineered devices.

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We investigated convection caused by surface cooling and mixing attributable to wind shear stress and their roles as agents for the transport of phytoplankton cells in the water column by carrying out two daily surveys during the stratified period of the Sau reservoir. Green algae, diatoms, and cryptophyceae were the dominant phytoplankton communities during the surveys carried out in the middle (July) and end (September) of the stratified period. We show that a system with a linear stratification and that is subject to weak surface forcing, with weak winds , < 4 m S (-1) and low energy dissipation rate values of the order of 1028 m2 s23 or lower, enables the formation of thin phytoplankton layers. These layers quickly disappear when water parcels mix because there is a medium external forcing (convection) induced by the night surface cooling, which is characterized by energy dissipation rates on the order of , 5x10(-8)m2s(-3). During both surveys the wind generated internal waves during the entire diurnal cycle. During the day, and because of the weak winds, phytoplankton layers rise in the water column up to a depth determined by both solar heating and internal waves. In contrast, during the night phytoplankton mixes down to a depth determined by both convection and internal waves. These internal waves, together with the wind-driven current generated at the surface, seem to be the agents responsible for the horizontal transport of phytoplankton across the reservoir.

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The causal mechanism and seasonal evolution of the internal wave field in a deep, warm, monomictic reservoirare examined through the analysis of field observations and numerical techniques. The study period extends fromthe onset of thermal stratification in the spring until midsummer in 2005. During this time, wind forcing wasperiodic, with a period of 24 h (typical of land–sea breezes), and the thermal structure in the lake wascharacterized by the presence of a shallow surface layer overlying a thick metalimnion, typical of small to mediumsized reservoirs with deep outtakes. Basin-scale internal seiches of high vertical mode (ranging from mode V3 toV5) were observed in the metalimnion. The structure of the dominant modes of oscillation changed asstratification evolved on seasonal timescales, but in all cases, their periods were close to that of the local windforcing (i.e., 24 h), suggesting a resonant response. Nonresonant oscillatory modes of type V1 and V2 becamedominant after large frontal events, which disrupted the diurnal periodicity of the wind forcing

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The present study on upper ocean responses to atmospheric forcing (associated with cyclone passage) in North Indian Ocean revealed significant variability between AS and BoB. The analysis of cyclone frequency during 1947 to 2006 exhibited lesser frequency of cyclones in AS than that of BoB. The analysis also revealed significant reduction in cyclone frequency after the year 1976 with substantial reduction during monsoon season. The long term SST data at selected points in AS and BoB could not reveal any relation with reduction in cyclone frequency. However the SLP at same locations exhibited considerable increase during mid 1970’s, which could have contributed to the observed reduction in cyclone frequency after the year 1976.The response in waves during cyclone passage exhibited significant asymmetry on either side of the track in AS and BoB and the response is observed at 100’s of kilometers away from the track. The significant clockwise rotation in wave direction is observed on the right side of the track starting from near the track to far away locations, which existed for a longer duration. However, the anticlockwise rotation in wave direction is observed over a shorter distance on the left side of the track and dissipated immediately.Inertial oscillation is observed in surface current and in the mixed layer temperature associated with cyclone passage, which revealed the role of relative location(s) on either side of the track. The inertial peak closer to the local inertial period indicates maximum transfer of energy during the cyclone passage in both AS and BoB. The absence of strong inertial oscillation even with clockwise rotation in surface current and wind indicates the dominant role of duration of strong wind in generating inertial oscillation.The oceanic response associated with cyclone passage reveal the variable response(s) which depends on cyclone intensity, the proximity to track and cyclone translation speed. It is observed that resonance with wind generates higher response in surface current, wave and SST on the right side of the track and it lasts for a longer duration. The maximum oceanic response is observed at a few kilometers away on right side of the track. However lesser rightward bias in the location of maximum cooling is observed for cyclones with low cyclone translation speed. The response on the left side of the track is less and is limited over a shorter distance and dissipates immediately. It is observed that the ocean response, in general, increases with intensity of cyclones. However the differential cooling produced by the same intensity cyclones in AS and in BoB indicates the dominant role of low cyclone translation speed in oceanic response.The surface cooling exhibited strikingly differential responses between AS and BoB. The TMI-SST and buoy observations exhibited significant cooling for a longer duration in AS compared to that of BoB. The spatial extent of cooling is also much higher in AS than that of BoB. The wide spread cooling associated with cyclone passage in AS indicates the dominant role of thermal structure in oceanic response in AS than that of BoB.

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This thesis entitled seasonal and interannual variability of sea level and associated surface meteorological parameters at cochin.The interesting aspect of studying sea level variability on different time scales can be attributed to the diversity of its applications.Study of tides could perhaps be the oldest branch of physical oceanography.The thesis is presented in seven chapters. The first chapter gives, apart from a general introduction, a survey of literature on sea level variability on different time scales - tidal, seasonal and interannual (geological scales excluded), with particular emphasis on the work carried out in the Indian waters. The second chapter is devoted to the study of observed tides at Cochin on seasonal and interannual time scales using hourly water level data for the period 1988-1993. The third chapter describes the long-term climatology of some important surface oceanographic and meteorological parameters (at Cochin) which are supposed to affect the sea level. The fourth chapter addresses the problem of seasonal forecasting of the meteorological and oceanographic parameters at Cochin using autoregressive, sinusoidal and exponentially weighted moving average techniques and testing their accuracy with the observed data for the period 1991-1993. The fifth chapter describes the seasonal cycles of sea level and the driving forces at 16 stations along the Indian subcontinent. It also addresses the observed interannual variability of sea level at 15 stations using available multi-annual data sets. The sixth chapter deals with the problem of coastal trapped waves between Cochin and Beypore off the Kerala coast using sea level and atmospheric pressure data sets for the year 1977. The seventh and the last chapter contains the summary and conclusions and future outlook based on this study.

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In this study, the processes affecting sea surface temperature variability over the 1992–98 period, encompassing the very strong 1997–98 El Niño event, are analyzed. A tropical Pacific Ocean general circulation model, forced by a combination of weekly ERS1–2 and TAO wind stresses, and climatological heat and freshwater fluxes, is first validated against observations. The model reproduces the main features of the tropical Pacific mean state, despite a weaker than observed thermal stratification, a 0.1 m s−1 too strong (weak) South Equatorial Current (North Equatorial Countercurrent), and a slight underestimate of the Equatorial Undercurrent. Good agreement is found between the model dynamic height and TOPEX/Poseidon sea level variability, with correlation/rms differences of 0.80/4.7 cm on average in the 10°N–10°S band. The model sea surface temperature variability is a bit weak, but reproduces the main features of interannual variability during the 1992–98 period. The model compares well with the TAO current variability at the equator, with correlation/rms differences of 0.81/0.23 m s−1 for surface currents. The model therefore reproduces well the observed interannual variability, with wind stress as the only interannually varying forcing. This good agreement with observations provides confidence in the comprehensive three-dimensional circulation and thermal structure of the model. A close examination of mixed layer heat balance is thus undertaken, contrasting the mean seasonal cycle of the 1993–96 period and the 1997–98 El Niño. In the eastern Pacific, cooling by exchanges with the subsurface (vertical advection, mixing, and entrainment), the atmospheric forcing, and the eddies (mainly the tropical instability waves) are the three main contributors to the heat budget. In the central–western Pacific, the zonal advection by low-frequency currents becomes the main contributor. Westerly wind bursts (in December 1996 and March and June 1997) were found to play a decisive role in the onset of the 1997–98 El Niño. They contributed to the early warming in the eastern Pacific because the downwelling Kelvin waves that they excited diminished subsurface cooling there. But it is mainly through eastward advection of the warm pool that they generated temperature anomalies in the central Pacific. The end of El Niño can be linked to the large-scale easterly anomalies that developed in the western Pacific and spread eastward, from the end of 1997 onward. In the far-western Pacific, because of the shallower than normal thermocline, these easterlies cooled the SST by vertical processes. In the central Pacific, easterlies pushed the warm pool back to the west. In the east, they led to a shallower thermocline, which ultimately allowed subsurface cooling to resume and to quickly cool the surface layer.

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The structure of turbulence in the ocean surface layer is investigated using a simplified semi-analytical model based on rapid-distortion theory. In this model, which is linear with respect to the turbulence, the flow comprises a mean Eulerian shear current, the Stokes drift of an irrotational surface wave, which accounts for the irreversible effect of the waves on the turbulence, and the turbulence itself, whose time evolution is calculated. By analysing the equations of motion used in the model, which are linearised versions of the Craik–Leibovich equations containing a ‘vortex force’, it is found that a flow including mean shear and a Stokes drift is formally equivalent to a flow including mean shear and rotation. In particular, Craik and Leibovich’s condition for the linear instability of the first kind of flow is equivalent to Bradshaw’s condition for the linear instability of the second. However, the present study goes beyond linear stability analyses by considering flow disturbances of finite amplitude, which allows calculating turbulence statistics and addressing cases where the linear stability is neutral. Results from the model show that the turbulence displays a structure with a continuous variation of the anisotropy and elongation, ranging from streaky structures, for distortion by shear only, to streamwise vortices resembling Langmuir circulations, for distortion by Stokes drift only. The TKE grows faster for distortion by a shear and a Stokes drift gradient with the same sign (a situation relevant to wind waves), but the turbulence is more isotropic in that case (which is linearly unstable to Langmuir circulations).

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Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

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We show that a surface solitary wave governed by the Korteweg-de Vries equation can develop in a fluid acted upon by fluxes of heat and of a second diffusive element. This solitary wave appears as a manifestation of a hydrodynamical instability which sets in only when a certain relation involving the parameters of the system is satisfied.

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The effects of a temperature dependent viscosity in surface nonlinear waves propagating in a shallow fluid heated from below are investigated. It is shown that the (2+1)-dimensional Burgers equation may appear as the equation governing the upper free surface perturbations of a Bénard system, even when the viscosity is assumed to depend on temperature. The critical Rayleigh number for the appearance of waves governed by the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation, however, will be smaller than R=30, which is the critical number obtained for a constant viscosity. © 1992.

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Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)