Dinâmica Costeira dos Campos petrolíferos Macau/Serra, litoral setentrional do Estado do Rio Grande do Norte

This thesis describes the general behavior of the northern shore of the State of Rio Grande do Norte relating beach profile morphology with hydrodynamic and sedimentological parameters. The Macau and Serra Oil Field are inserted on this area and are under accelerated coastal erosion. At these oil fields are installed oil wells from PETROBRAS, nowadays located directly in the shoreline, under constant attacks of coastal processes (e.g. waves, tides and currents), which promote an intense morphodynamic variability of this sandy coast. The area was monitored for 24 months in three different stations (P01, P02 and P03). The methodology applied involved current techniques of beach profiles, hydrodynamical processes, remote sensing and geophysics. A synthesis of results obtained through the use of different time scales (monthly, lunar cycle, seasonal, annual) from a coastal dynamics study is presented. The average wind direction corresponded to 77ºAz (NE). The steepness of the berm and of the shoreface, as well as coastal current direction, do not present major changes, with an average of 36º for the steepness of the berm, 15º for the shoreface and 15º for the coastal current direction. This data set allows us to infer that the months of larger coastal erosion were November/2000 and April/2001, because of the largest wave parameter during this time. The months of worse coastal erosion in this area are related with the increasing wavy energy. This in turn, seems to be related to seasonal climatic variations, with the wave energy and tide currents speed increasing during months of minor precipitations (June to January). The months of worse coastal erosion were September and November, when the largest wave parameters and speed currents are measured in the area. Since these months are included on the period of minor precipitations, we related the coastal erosion to seasonal climatic variations. The results obtained during these 24 months of monitoring confirms a situation of accentuated erosion, mainly in Profile 03 (Barra do Corta-Cachorro), where the wave height, period, and coastal current speed are always larger than the values found in Profile 02 (Macau5). Probably these values are more expressive in Profile 03, because it does not present any natural structure of protection against the wave impacts, as the barrier island located at Ponta do Tubarão, or the sand banks in front of Macau5. The transport of the sediments occurs from East to West, and the sand accumulation is more pronounced on Profile 03 intertidal zone, where there are embrionary dunes in dryer months. The tidal currents speed, on the other hand, is more accentuated in the Macau5 area (Profile 02). At Ponta do Tubarão, the tidal currents presented a preferential direction for NE, at times of flood, currents and for NW, at times of ebb current; at Barra do Corta-Cachorro the direction of the currents were predominantly for NW, independent of the tide phase, coinciding with the preferential direction of the longshore current. This currents inversion at Ponta do Tubarão is attributed to the presence of the Ponta do Tubarão island barrier and by the communication channel of the lagoon with the sea. The tide currents are better observed in protected areas, as in the Ponta do Tubarão, when they present inversion in their direction accordingly to the flood and ebb tide. In open areas, as in Barra do Corta-Cachorro, the tide currents are overprinted by the longshore currents. Sediment analysis does not show important modifications in grain size related to seasonality (dry- and rainy seasons). On the foreshore and backshore zones, the sediments vary from fine to medium sand, while in the shoreface they very from fine to very sands. The grains are mostly spheres, varying from sub rounded to sub angled. Quartz is the main component alongside Feldspat and heavy minerals as accessory components. Biogenic content is also present and mainly represented by mollusks fragments. The calculated sediment transport show values around 100 m3/day. The morphodynamic studies indicated that this is a reflexive area from October to April, and intermediate from May to September. The Relative Tide Range-RTR for this area is 4 < RTR < 15, and so classified in the mixed wave-tide group. Having this exposed we can affirm that the more active natural factors in this area are the currents, followed by the tides and the winds. The anthropic factors are exclusively local and punctual (Macau and Serra Oil Field). Taking in account the economic importance of the area, as well as the intensity of coastal processes acting on this shore, it is important a continuity of the monthly environmental monitoring looking for variations on longer-period cycles. These data have been stored on the geo-referenced database of the projects MARPETRO and PETRORISCO (REDE 05), aiming to model the coastal and sea environment, susceptible to oil spills and their derivatives

Uma discussão sobre as densidades de energia em ondas mecânicas unidimensionais

Estudam-se as médias temporais das densidades das energias cinética e potencial em ondas mecânicas unidimensionais. Demonstra-se que o movimento harmônico simples dos elementos do meio não é condição suficiente nem necessária para que aquelas médias sejam iguais. Isso contradiz as abordagens em textos de Halliday et al. e Nussenzveig.

Circulação recente de sedimentos costeiros nas praias de santos durante eventos de tempestades: Dados para a gestão de impactos físicos costeiros

The beachs of Santos are situated in Santos Bay, central portion of paulista coast, in São Paulo state. This beachs are frequently affected by cold fronts with winds and currents from the South. These fronts are responsible for the removal and transport of sediments (sand) in Santos beaches. In order to quantify this sedimentation the channels of Santos were analysed, due to their function as box colectors of sediments during storm events. The channels are filled by sands, which volume in channels 1 to 6 was estimated, by using the length, width and height of sand sedimented in the channels, in the event of 22-27 april 2005. The chanels 2, 3 and 1 presented the larger volumes of sands, confirming that the central and SW portion of the beaches of Santos present higher levels of sedimentation or re-sedimentation. That is due to the transport by ocean waves and currents and currents from the Channel of the Port of Santos. This central portion suffer invasion of marine water over street and buildings, caracterizated of geological rise area.

Um estudo da dependência do índice de refração linear com a composição dos vidros teluretos dos sistemas TeO2-Li2O-TiO2 e TeO2-Li2O-WO3

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Mapeamento de sensibilidade a derramamentos de petróleo do Parque Estadual da Ilha do Cardoso - PEIC e áreas do entorno

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Condições oceanográficas, ocupação territorial e problemas ambientais na praia do Atalaia (nordeste do Pará, Brasil)

A conservação e gestão da zona costeira da região amazônica merecem atenção especial, devido à riqueza de seus recursos naturais. O presente estudo visa avaliar os impactos dos eventos naturais e atividades humanas na praia de Atalaia, situada no estado do Pará (Brasil), e o desenvolvimento de diretrizes para a implementação de programas de gestão costeira. Os dados foram coletados entre novembro/2008 e novembro/2010. Quatro conjuntos de variáveis foram avaliados: (i) variáveis físicas (climatologia, hidrodinâmica e morfodinâmica), (ii) variáveis hidrológicas (temperatura da água, salinidade, pH, turbidez, oxigênio dissolvido e nutrientes inorgânicos dissolvidos, clorofila a e níveis de coliformes termotolerantes), (iii) desenvolvimento urbano e (iv) distribuição espacial de serviços e infraestrutura. Os resultados indicam que o clima e as condições hidrodinâmicas foram os principais fatores responsáveis pelas flutuações na qualidade de água, turbidez, oxigênio dissolvido, nutrientes inorgânicos dissolvidos e concentrações de clorofila a. A descarga de esgoto doméstico não tratado foi responsável pela contaminação bacteriológica, embora a rápida turbulência decorrente da alta energia hidrodinâmica do ambiente tenha limitado a contaminação por coliformes termotolerantes. Esta alta energia hidrodinâmica, principalmente durante as marés equinociais de sizígia e a falta de planejamento urbano gera outros problemas, tais como a erosão costeira. A área de estudo é caracterizada por altas taxas pluviométricas (> 1900 mm durante a estação chuvosa), ventos de NE com velocidades médias mensais superiores a 4,36 m/s na estação seca e 3,06 m/s na estação chuvosa, condições de macromaré (alcance da maré > 4,0 m), velocidades moderadas de correntes de maré (superior a 0,5 m/s) e alturas de ondas significantes superior a 1,5 m. Em março e junho (meses chuvosos), a corrente de maré vazante alcançou um máximo de 0,4 m/s. O ciclo de maré foi fracamente assimétrico com a maré vazante durando mais de 6 horas e 40 minutos. A energia das ondas foram fracamente moduladas pela maré baixa devido à atenuação das ondas em bancos de areia. A temperatura da água foi relativamente homogênea (27,4°C a 29,3°C). A salinidade variou de 5,7 (junho) a 37,4 (novembro). A água foi bem oxigenada (superior a 9,17 mg/L), turva (superior a 118 NTU), alcalina (acima de 8,68) e eutrófica (máximo de 2,36 μmol/L para nitrito, 24,34 μmol/L para nitrato, 0,6 μmol/L para fosfato e 329,7 μmol/L para silicato), além de apresentar altas concentrações de clorofila a (acima de 82 mg/m³). As condições naturais observadas no presente estudo indicam a necessidade de uma revisão dos critérios hidrológicos usados para avaliação de praias por agências nacionais e internacionais e sua adaptação para a realidade da costa amazônica. A falta de sistema de saneamento público levou a contaminação bacteriológica e a perda da qualidade da água. Com relação ao estado morfodinâmico, as condições dissipativas foram encontradas durante alta a moderada energia hidrodinâmica (condições equinociais e não-equinociais), porém em novembro as maiores alturas de ondas geraram características de barred dissipative, enquanto nos outros meses características nonbarred foram dominantes. Desta forma, o modelo proposto por Masselink & Short (1993) parece não ser ideal para ser aplicado em praias com características similares a praia de Atalaia, na qual a energia das ondas é modulada pela presença de bancos de areia durante algumas fases da maré.

Unidades de relevo em zona costeira estuarina: municípios de Colares e Santo Antônio do Tauá

Este trabalho tem por objetivo identificar e discutir as unidades de relevo dos municípios de Colares e Santo Antônio do Tauá, Estado do Pará, Brasil. Apresenta como objeto de estudo a compartimentação do relevo. A área de estudada se localiza na parte oriental do Golfão Marajoara, porção nordeste da baía de Marajó, em um trecho tipicamente estuarino da zona costeira. A pesquisa foi realizada com base em revisão de literatura, levantamento cartográfico, tratamento, interpretação e vetorização de imagens orbitais e trabalhos de campo. Duas escalas de análise foram trabalhadas. A primeira escala referiu-se à Zona Costeira Amazônica (ZCA), caracterizada por ser uma costa baixa, predominantemente sedimentar, sujeita a regime de macromarés em sua maior parte e fortemente influenciada pelas descargas fluviais condicionadas pelo clima úmido. A formação regional desta costa deve-se às flutuações do nível relativo do mar, oscilações climáticas e à neotectônica, atuantes ao longo do Cenozóico Superior. A porção oriental do Golfão Marajoara é constituída pelo estuário do rio Pará, que se comporta como um tidal river ou estuário dominado por correntes fluviais, apesar da influência das marés. As descargas fluviais são o fator principal da hidrodinâmica estuarina, constituição sedimentar e organização da biota. Trata-se de um ambiente costeiro mais protegido da ação de ondas e da deriva litorânea, em comparação com o litoral atlântico do Nordeste do Pará. Na segunda escala de trabalho foram identificadas 8 unidades de relevo: leito estuarino arenoso; banco lamoso de intermaré; planície de maré lamosa; praia estuarina; cordão arenoso; planície aluvial sob influência de maré; planície aluvial; tabuleiro. Apenas a unidade do tabuleiro é considerada como relevo erosivo. A seguir, discutiu-se a distribuição espacial das unidades de relevo, que mostrou a presença de dois setores específicos. O setor 1, situado a oeste, é amplamente influenciado por marés, e nele predominam formas de relevo de acumulação, com destaque para as planícies aluviais sob influência de maré, que ocupam maior área, fato que revela um esquema de transição entre o domínio marinho e o flúviocontinental. As várzeas sucedem os mangues para o interior, à medida que diminui a influência da água salgada. O esquema básico de distribuição sedimentar é representado por areias de fundo de canal e lamas depositadas nas margens durante a maré baixa. As praias são reduzidas, o que se explica pela menor atuação de ondas, e pelo papel decisivo das correntes de maré e das vazantes na dinâmica costeira. Cordões arenosos localizados no interior da planície costeira são o testemunho da progradação da linha de costa. Neste setor, os tabuleiros encontramse muito fragmentados, em consequência da erosão e sedimentação por marés, canais e águas das chuvas. O setor 2, a leste, não sofre influência de marés, e apresenta um relevo menos compartimentado, com tabuleiros seccionados pela rede de drenagem. A dissecação fluvial forma vales com estreitas planícies aluviais, fato que revela uma superfície erosiva mais ampla.

Estudo da viabilidade de implantação de plantas para conversão de energia térmica do oceano (OTEC) no Brasil

Pós-graduação em Engenharia Mecânica - FEIS

Uso das ondas de Lamb e Scholte para caracterização de líquidos

Pós-graduação em Engenharia Elétrica - FEIS

POPULATION BIOLOGY AND DIET OF THE SOUTHERN KINGCROAKER Menticirrhus americanus (LINNAEUS, 1758) (PERCIFORMES: SCIAENIDAE) IN CARAGUATATUBA BAY, SOUTHEASTERN BRAZIL

This study evaluated the spatio-temporal distribution, population biology and diet of Menticirrhus americanus in Caraguatatuba Bay. Samples were taken monthly between August 2003 and October 2004, by trawling in two previously selected areas. The northern area is more exposed to wave activity and is influenced by a river, functioning as a small estuary. In contrast, the southern area is relatively sheltered from wave energy and influenced to a lesser degree by smaller rivers. The fishes' length was measured, and the sex and gonadal stage macroscopically identified. The abundance of this species was compared between areas and among months. The diet was identified and quantified. M. americanus occurred in equal proportions in the two study areas, being most abundant in April 2004, followed by December 2003 and January 2004. The population was dominated by small immature individuals. The few individuals in maturation or mature that were captured showed no seasonal pattern of distribution. This species had a varied diet, feeding on worms (nemerteans, sipunculans and echiurans), mollusks (bivalves and cephalopods), polychaetes, crustaceans and fish. The presence of intact nematodes in the intestine suggests that these are parasites. The results demonstrated that M. americanus has a homogeneous spatial and temporal distribution in Caraguatatuba Bay, being uniformly distributed between the south and north areas as well as across the months. This species can be considered a carnivorous predator, showing a preference for consuming benthic sandy-beach species such as glycerids and other polychaetes, crustaceans, and bivalve siphons.

Records of sedimentary dynamics in the continental shelf and upper slope between Aveiro-Espinho (N Portugal)

The sedimentary unconsolidated cover of the Aveiro-Espinho continental shelf and upper slope (NW Portugal) records a complex interplay of processes including wave energy and currents, fluvial input, sediment transport alongshore and cross-shelf, geological and oceanographic processes and sediment sources and sinks. In order to study this record, a set of surface sediment samples was studied. Sediment grain size and composition, as well as the mineralogical composition (by XRD) of the fine (<63 mu m) and clay (<2 mu m) fractions and benthic microfaunal (foraminifera) data were analysed. Cluster analysis applied to the sedimentological data (grain size, sediment composition and mineralogy) allowed the establishment of three main zones corresponding to the: inner-, mid- and outer-shelf/upper slope. On the inner-shelf, the sedimentary coverture is composed of siliciclastic fine to very fine sand, essentially comprising modern (immature) terrigenous particles. The sediment grain size, as well as mineralogical and microfaunal composition, denote the high energetic conditions of this sector in which the alongshore transport of sand is predominantly southward and occurs mostly during the spring-summer oceanographic regime, when the main river providing sediments to this area, the River Douro, undergoes periods of drought. This effect may emphasize the erosive character of this coastal sector at present, since the Ria de Aveiro provides the shelf with few sediments. On the mid-shelf, an alongshore siliciclastic band of coarse sand and gravel can be found between the 40 m and 60 m isobaths. This gravelly deposit includes relic sediments deposited during lower sea-level stands. This structure stays on the surface due to the high bottom energy, which promotes the remobilization of the fine-grained sediments, and/or events of sediments bypassing. Benthic foraminifera density and "Benthic Foraminifera High Productivity" (BFHP) proxy values are in general low, which is consistent with the overall small supply of organic matter to the oceanic bottom in the inner- and mid-shelf. However, the Ria de Aveiro outflow, which delivers organic matter to the shelf, leaves its imprint mainly on the mid-shelf, identifiable by the increase in foraminifera density and BFHP values in front of the lagoon mouth. The higher values of BFHP along the 100 m isobath trace the present position of an oceanic thermal front whose situation may have changed in the last 3/5 ka BP. This zone marks a clear difference in the density, diversity and composition of benthic foraminifera assemblages. Here, in addition, sediment composition changes significantly, giving rise to carbonate-rich fine to medium sand in the deeper sector. The low bottom energy and the small sedimentation rate of the outer-shelf contributed to the preservation of a discontinuous carbonate-rich gravel band, between the 100 m and 140 m isobaths, also related to paleo-littorals, following the transgression that has occurred since the Last Glacial Maximum. The winter oceanographic regime favours the transport of fine grained sediments to the outer-shelf and upper slope. The inner- and mid-shelf, however, have low amounts of this kind of sediment and the Cretacic carbonated complexes Pontal da Galega and Pontal da Cartola, rocky outcrops located at the mid- and outer-shelf, act as morphological barriers to the cross-shelf transport of sediments. Thus a reduced sedimentation rate occurs in these deeper sectors, as indicated by the lower abundance of detrital minerals, which is compensated for the high sedimentary content of biogenic carbonates. The relatively high BFHP and Shannon Index values indicate water column stratification, high supply of organic matter and environmental stability, which provide favourable conditions for a diversified benthic fauna to flourish. These conditions also encourage authigenic chemical changes, favourable to glauconite formation, as well as illite and kaolinite degradation. Benthic foraminifera and clay mineral assemblages also reveal the effect of the internal waves pushing upward, and downslope losses of the sediments on the outer-shelf and upper slope.

Population biology and diet of the southern kingcroaker Menticirrhus americanus (Linnaeus, 1758) (Perciformes: Sciaenidae) in Caraguatatuba Bay, southeastern Brazil

This study evaluated the spatio-temporal distribution, population biology and diet of Menticirrhus americanus in Caraguatatuba Bay. Samples were taken monthly between August 2003 and October 2004, by trawling in two previously selected areas. The northern area is more exposed to wave activity and is influenced by a river, functioning as a small estuary. In contrast, the southern area is relatively sheltered from wave energy and influenced to a lesser degree by smaller rivers. The fishes' length was measured, and the sex and gonadal stage macroscopically identified. The abundance of this species was compared between areas and among months. The diet was identified and quantified. M. americanus occurred in equal proportions in the two study areas, being most abundant in April 2004, followed by December 2003 and January 2004. The population was dominated by small immature individuals. The few individuals in maturation or mature that were captured showed no seasonal pattern of distribution. This species had a varied diet, feeding on worms (nemerteans, sipunculans and echiurans), mollusks (bivalves and cephalopods), polychaetes, crustaceans and fish. The presence of intact nematodes in the intestine suggests that these are parasites. The results demonstrated that M. americanus has a homogeneous spatial and temporal distribution in Caraguatatuba Bay, being uniformly distributed between the south and north areas as well as across the months. This species can be considered a carnivorous predator, showing a preference for consuming benthic sandy-beach species such as glycerids and other polychaetes, crustaceans, and bivalve siphons.

Evolución de la transmisión de la energía del oleaje a través de un rompeolas flotante empleando un método SPH

[ES] Debido a la necesidad de proponer estructuras de protección costera que sean ambientalmente viables y operacionalmente efectivas, se propone como estructura para proteger el muelle de la Estación de Guardacostas de Santa Marta, Colombia, un Rompeolas Flotante; empleando para su diseño y validación un modelo en numérico de partículas en 2D, conocido como Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics. Desarrollando todo el proceso de validación y análisis de los casos para obtener resultados confiables y que permitan proponer un Rompeolas Flotante con dimensiones concretas, que atenúe el efecto del oleaje incidente en el muelle.

Performance Optimization of a Floating Breakwater Model Using SPH Method, with a Practical Application

Máster en Oceanografía

Two fluid numerical model for coastal applications

Wave breaking is an important coastal process, influencing hydro-morphodynamic processes such as turbulence generation and wave energy dissipation, run-up on the beach and overtopping of coastal defence structures. During breaking, waves are complex mixtures of air and water (“white water”) whose properties affect velocity and pressure fields in the vicinity of the free surface and, depending on the breaker characteristics, different mechanisms for air entrainment are usually observed. Several laboratory experiments have been performed to investigate the role of air bubbles in the wave breaking process (Chanson & Cummings, 1994, among others) and in wave loading on vertical wall (Oumeraci et al., 2001; Peregrine et al., 2006, among others), showing that the air phase is not negligible since the turbulent energy dissipation involves air-water mixture. The recent advancement of numerical models has given valuable insights in the knowledge of wave transformation and interaction with coastal structures. Among these models, some solve the RANS equations coupled with a free-surface tracking algorithm and describe velocity, pressure, turbulence and vorticity fields (Lara et al. 2006 a-b, Clementi et al., 2007). The single-phase numerical model, in which the constitutive equations are solved only for the liquid phase, neglects effects induced by air movement and trapped air bubbles in water. Numerical approximations at the free surface may induce errors in predicting breaking point and wave height and moreover, entrapped air bubbles and water splash in air are not properly represented. The aim of the present thesis is to develop a new two-phase model called COBRAS2 (stands for Cornell Breaking waves And Structures 2 phases), that is the enhancement of the single-phase code COBRAS0, originally developed at Cornell University (Lin & Liu, 1998). In the first part of the work, both fluids are considered as incompressible, while the second part will treat air compressibility modelling. The mathematical formulation and the numerical resolution of the governing equations of COBRAS2 are derived and some model-experiment comparisons are shown. In particular, validation tests are performed in order to prove model stability and accuracy. The simulation of the rising of a large air bubble in an otherwise quiescent water pool reveals the model capability to reproduce the process physics in a realistic way. Analytical solutions for stationary and internal waves are compared with corresponding numerical results, in order to test processes involving wide range of density difference. Waves induced by dam-break in different scenarios (on dry and wet beds, as well as on a ramp) are studied, focusing on the role of air as the medium in which the water wave propagates and on the numerical representation of bubble dynamics. Simulations of solitary and regular waves, characterized by both spilling and plunging breakers, are analyzed with comparisons with experimental data and other numerical model in order to investigate air influence on wave breaking mechanisms and underline model capability and accuracy. Finally, modelling of air compressibility is included in the new developed model and is validated, revealing an accurate reproduction of processes. Some preliminary tests on wave impact on vertical walls are performed: since air flow modelling allows to have a more realistic reproduction of breaking wave propagation, the dependence of wave breaker shapes and aeration characteristics on impact pressure values is studied and, on the basis of a qualitative comparison with experimental observations, the numerical simulations achieve good results.