Interim report on sea and swell forecasting /

Mode of access: Internet.

An introduction to sea state forecasting /

Item 275.

Guide to sea state, wind, and clouds.

Shipping list no.: 95-0073-P.

Wind, sea and swell : theory of relations for forecasting /

Mode of access: Internet.

A sea symphony; for soprano and baritone soli, chorus and orchestra. Words by Walt Whitman.

Words printed as text : p. ii-iv.

Relative sea-level history of Marguerite Bay, Antarctic Peninsula derived from optically stimulated luminescence-dated beach cobbles

Calmette Bay within Marguerite Bay along the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula contains one of the most continuous flights of raised beaches described to date in Antarctica. Raised beaches extend to 40.8 m above sea level (masl) and are thought to reflect glacial isostatic adjustment due to the retreat of the Antarctic Peninsula Ice Sheet. Using optically stimulated luminescence (OSL), we dated quartz extracts from cobble surfaces buried in raised beaches at Calmette Bay. The beaches are separated into upper and lower beaches based on OSL ages, geomorphology, and sedimentary fabric. The two sets of beaches are separated by a prominent scarp. One of our OSL ages from the upper beaches dates to 9.3 thousand years ago (ka; as of 1950) consistent with previous extrapolation of sea-level data and the time of ice retreat from inner Marguerite Bay. However, four of the seven ages from the upper beaches date to the timing of glaciation. We interpret these ages to represent reworking of beaches deposited prior to the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM) by advancing and retreating LGM ice. Ages from the lower beaches record relative sea-level fall due to Holocene glacial-isostatic adjustment. We suggest a Holocene marine limit of 21.7 masl with an age of 5.5-7.3 ka based on OSL ages from Calmette Bay and other sea-level constraints in the area. A marine limit at 21.7 masl implies half as much relative sea-level change in Marguerite Bay during the Holocene as suggested by previous sea-level reconstructions. No evidence for a relative sea-level signature of neoglacial events, such as a decrease followed by an increase in RSL fall due to ice advance and retreat associated with the Little Ice Age, is found within Marguerite Bay indicating either: (1) no significant neoglacial advances occurred within Marguerite Bay; (2) rheological heterogeneity allows part of the Antarctic Peninsula (i.e. the South Shetland Islands) to respond to rapid ice mass changes while other regions are incapable of responding to short-lived ice advances; or (3) the magnitude of neoglacial events within Marguerite Bay is too small to resolve through relative sea-level reconstructions. Although the application of reconstructing sea-level histories using OSL-dated raised beach deposits provides a better understanding of the timing and nature of relative sea-level change in Marguerite Bay, we highlight possible problems associated with using raised beaches as sea-level indices due to post-depositional reworking by storm waves.

(Table1) Frequency of well defined bioturbation in sediments of the Eckernförder Bay, Western Baltic Sea

The lamination and burrowing patterns in 17 box cores were analyzed with the aid of X-ray photographs and thin sections. A standardized method of log plotting made statistical analysis of the data possible. Several 'structure types' were established, although it was realized that the boundaries are purely arbitrary divisions in what can sometimes be a continuous sequence. In the transition zone between marginal sand facies and fine-grained basin facies, muddy sediment is found which contains particularly well differentiated, alternating laminae. This zone is also characterized by layers rich in plant remains. The alternation of laminae shows a high degree of statistical scattering. Even though a small degree of cyclic periodicity could be defined, it was impossible to correlate individual layers from core to core across the bay. However, through a statistical handling of the plots, zones could be separated on the basis of the number of sand layers they contained. These more or minder sandy zones clarified the bottom reflections seen in the records of the echograph from the area. The manner of facies change across the bay, suggests that no strong bottom currents are effective in the Eckernförde Bay. The marked asymmetry between the north and south flanks of the profile can be attributed to the stronger action of waves on the more exposed areas. Grain size analyses were made from the more homogeneous units found in a core from the transition-facies zone. The results indicate that the most pronounced differences between layers appear in the silt range, and although the differences are slight, they are statistically significant. Layers rich in plant remains were wet-sieved in order to separate the plant detritus. This was than analyzed in a sediment settling balance and found to be hydrodynamically equivalent to a well-sorted, finegrained sand. A special, rhythmic cross-bedding type with dimensions in the millimeter range, has been named 'Crypto-cross-lamination' and is thought to represent rapid sedimentation in an area where only very weak bottom currents are present. It is found only in the deepest part of the basin. Relatively large sand grains, scattered within layers of clayey-silty matrix, seem to be transported by flotation. Thin section examination showed that the inner part of Eckernförder Bay carbonate grains (e. g. Foraminifera shells) were preserved throughout the cores, while in the outer part of the bay they were not present. Well defined tracks and burrows are relatively rare in all of the facies in comparision to the generally strongly developed deformation burrowing. The application of special measures for the deformation burrowing allowed to plot their intensity in profile for each core. A degree of regularity could be found in these burrowing intensity plots, with higher values appearing in the sandy facies, but with no clear differences between sand and silt layers in the transition facies. Small sections in the profiles of the deepest part of the bay show no bioturbation at all.

Air-sea transfer of gas phase controlled compounds

Gases in the atmosphere/ocean have solubility that spans several orders of magnitude. Resistance in the molecular sublayer on the waterside limits the air-sea exchange of sparingly soluble gases such as SF6 and CO2. In contrast, both aerodynamic and molecular diffusive resistances on the airside limit the exchange of highly soluble gases (as well as heat). Here we present direct measurements of air-sea methanol and acetone transfer from two open cruises: the Atlantic Meridional Transect in 2012 and the High Wind Gas Exchange Study in 2013. The transfer of the highly soluble methanol is essentially completely airside controlled, while the less soluble acetone is subject to both airside and waterside resistances. Both compounds were measured concurrently using a proton-transfer-reaction mass spectrometer, with their fluxes quantified by the eddy covariance method. Up to a wind speed of 15 m s-1, observed air-sea transfer velocities of these two gases are largely consistent with the expected near linear wind speed dependence. Measured acetone transfer velocity is ~30% lower than that of methanol, which is primarily due to the lower solubility of acetone. From this difference we estimate the "zero bubble" waterside transfer velocity, which agrees fairly well with interfacial gas transfer velocities predicted by the COARE model. At wind speeds above 15 m s-1, the transfer velocities of both compounds are lower than expected in the mean. Air-sea transfer of sensible heat (also airside controlled) also appears to be reduced at wind speeds over 20 m s-1. During these conditions, large waves and abundant whitecaps generate large amounts of sea spray, which is predicted to alter heat transfer and could also affect the air-sea exchange of soluble trace gases. We make an order of magnitude estimate for the impacts of sea spray on air-sea methanol transfer.

Air-sea transfer of gas phase controlled compounds

Gases in the atmosphere/ocean have solubility that spans several orders of magnitude. Resistance in the molecular sublayer on the waterside limits the air-sea exchange of sparingly soluble gases such as SF6 and CO2. In contrast, both aerodynamic and molecular diffusive resistances on the airside limit the exchange of highly soluble gases (as well as heat). Here we present direct measurements of air-sea methanol and acetone transfer from two open cruises: the Atlantic Meridional Transect in 2012 and the High Wind Gas Exchange Study in 2013. The transfer of the highly soluble methanol is essentially completely airside controlled, while the less soluble acetone is subject to both airside and waterside resistances. Both compounds were measured concurrently using a proton-transfer-reaction mass spectrometer, with their fluxes quantified by the eddy covariance method. Up to a wind speed of 15 m s-1, observed air-sea transfer velocities of these two gases are largely consistent with the expected near linear wind speed dependence. Measured acetone transfer velocity is ~30% lower than that of methanol, which is primarily due to the lower solubility of acetone. From this difference we estimate the "zero bubble" waterside transfer velocity, which agrees fairly well with interfacial gas transfer velocities predicted by the COARE model. At wind speeds above 15 m s-1, the transfer velocities of both compounds are lower than expected in the mean. Air-sea transfer of sensible heat (also airside controlled) also appears to be reduced at wind speeds over 20 m s-1. During these conditions, large waves and abundant whitecaps generate large amounts of sea spray, which is predicted to alter heat transfer and could also affect the air-sea exchange of soluble trace gases. We make an order of magnitude estimate for the impacts of sea spray on air-sea methanol transfer.

Breaking Waves on the Ocean Surface

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Washington, 2016-08

On the sound waves propagation in the Persian Gulf

In this research I focused on the propagation of acoustic rays in shallow water areas then I selected the Persian Gulf and described sound transmission in this region with emphasize on physical properties of water masses and of sediments. Finally I studied on the sound speed variations and sound attention with data collected from this area (NE of Farsi Island & 50 kilometers south of Delware). Sound speed deviation in western part of Strait of Hormuz in winter is between 20-30 m/s and it is between 5-20 m/s in the Oman Sea. Minimum sound speed deviation is at 23-24 degree north & 60-62 degree east. In spring, this deviation varies from 25-35 m/s, which is greater than in winter. In winter, at east of 56 degree east, greater speed are in shallow water coastal areas. In summer, sound speeds are greater than in spring and vary from 35 to 55 m/s at western part of Strait of Hormuz and 20 to 40 m/s in Oman Sea. Finally in autumn, sound speed deviation is 30-45 m/s west of 56 degree east and in Oman Sea is the same. The greatest attenuation rate caused by absorption in Bandar Dayer is between 17 to 27 meters depth, which is from water masses with different densities.

Study and analysis of the waves and currents interaction phenomena

Interaction of ocean waves, currents and sea bed roughness is a complicated phenomena in fluid dynamic. This paper will describe the governing equations of motions of this phenomena in viscous and nonviscous conditions as well as study and analysis the experimental results of sets of physical models on waves, currents and artificial roughness, and consists of three parts: First, by establishing some typical patterns of roughness, the effects of sea bed roughness on a uniform current has been studied, as well as the manning coefficient of each type is reviewed to find the critical situation due to different arrangement. Second, the effect of roughness on wave parameters changes, such as wave height, wave length, and wave dispersion equations have been studied, third, superimposing, the waves + current + roughness patterns established in a flume, equipped with waves + currents generator, in this stage different analysis has been done to find the governing dimensionless numbers, and present the numbers to define the contortions and formulations of this phenomena. First step of the model is verified by the so called Chinese method, and the Second step by the Kamphius (1975), and third step by the van Rijn (1990) , and Brevik and Ass ( 1980), and in all cases reasonable agreements have been obtained. Finally new dimensionless parameters presented for this complicated phenomena.

Interaction between wind waves and swell in the Persian Gulf

The effect of swell on wind wave growth has been a topic of active research for many years with inconsistent results. The details are often contradictory among investigations. Further more, there remain a variety of competing theories to explain these phenomena. In this research, we consider waves and wind and temperature data in the Persian Gulf (Busher region) in years 1995, 1996 and 1999. This study provides estimations of wave conditions and the atmosphere stability that has an influence on wind wave. Results are also compared with data that have been recorded by a buoy in Caspian Sea (Neka region) during 1989. In the second part of this work we estimate non- dimensional energy and non-dimensional peak frequencies as a function of the non- dimensional fetch and Bulk Richardson numbers for the Persian Gulf (Busher region).This results also agree well with similar results for the Caspian Sea. The acquired relations can be used to compute the wind wave parameters. Also the results for the Persian Gulf show that the relationship of non-dimensional energy to as a function of wave age is independent of presence of swell. Finally the WAM model was run for the Persian Gulf during 3-8 September of 2002. The results show that swell on the Persian Gulf reduces the energy density of wind waves by up to 10%, but the growth rate at peak frequency is only reduced by up to 4%, and the spectral peak frequency is increased by only 1%.

Wind wave prediction in the Caspian Sea

In this thesis, wind wave prediction and analysis in the Southern Caspian Sea are surveyed. Because of very much importance and application of this matter in reducing vital and financial damages or marine activities, such as monitoring marine pollution, designing marine structure, shipping, fishing, offshore industry, tourism and etc, gave attention by some marine activities. In this study are used the Caspian Sea topography data that are extracted from the Caspian Sea Hydrography map of Iran Armed Forces Geographical Organization and the I 0 meter wind field data that are extracted from the transmitted GTS synoptic data of regional centers to Forecasting Center of Iran Meteorological Organization for wave prediction and is used the 20012 wave are recorded by the oil company's buoy that was located at distance 28 Kilometers from Neka shore for wave analysis. The results of this research are as follows: - Because of disagreement between the prediction results of SMB method in the Caspian sea and wave data of the Anzali and Neka buoys. The SMB method isn't able to Predict wave characteristics in the Southern Caspian Sea. - Because of good relativity agreement between the WAM model output in the Caspian Sea and wave data of the Anzali buoy. The WAM model is able to predict wave characteristics in the southern Caspian Sea with high relativity accuracy. The extreme wave height distribution function for fitting to the Southern Caspian Sea wave data is obtained by determining free parameters of Poisson-Gumbel function through moment method. These parameters are as below: A=2.41, B=0.33. The maximum relative error between the estimated 4-year return value of the Southern Caspian Sea significant wave height by above function with the wave data of Neka buoy is about %35. The 100-year return value of the Southern Caspian Sea significant height wave is about 4.97 meter. The maximum relative error between the estimated 4-year return value of the Southern Caspian Sea significant wave height by statistical model of peak over threshold with the wave data of Neka buoy is about %2.28. The parametric relation for fitting to the Southern Caspian Sea frequency spectra is obtained by determining free parameters of the Strekalov, Massel and Krylov etal_ multipeak spectra through mathematical method. These parameters are as below: A = 2.9 B=26.26, C=0.0016 m=0.19 and n=3.69. The maximum relative error between calculated free parameters of the Southern Caspian Sea multipeak spectrum with the proposed free parameters of double-peaked spectrum by Massel and Strekalov on the experimental data from the Caspian Sea is about 36.1 % in spectrum energetic part and is about 74M% in spectrum high frequency part. The peak over threshold waverose of the Southern Caspian Sea shows that maximum occurrence probability of wave height is relevant to waves with 2-2.5 meters wave fhe error sources in the statistical analysis are mainly due to: l) the missing wave data in 2 years duration through battery discharge of Neka buoy. 2) the deportation %15 of significant height annual mean in single year than long period average value that is caused by lack of adequate measurement on oceanic waves, and the error sources in the spectral analysis are mainly due to above- mentioned items and low accurate of the proposed free parameters of double-peaked spectrum on the experimental data from the Caspian Sea.

Experimental and numerical studies of hydrodynamic interaction of two bodies in waves

This thesis focuses on experimental and numerical studies of the hydrodynamic interaction between two vessels in close proximity in waves. In the model tests, two identical box-like models with round corners were used. Regular waves with the same wave steepness and different wave frequencies were generated. Six degrees of freedom body motions and wave elevations between bodies were measured in a head sea condition. Three initial gap widths were examined. In the numerical computations, a panel-free method based seakeeping program, MAPS0, and a panel method based program, WAMIT, were used for the prediction of body motions and wave elevations. The computed body motions and wave elevations were compared with experimental data.