Integrated coastal geoengineering approach for maritime environments

This dissertation introduces several methodological approaches which integrate a proposed coastal management model in an interdisciplinary perspective. The research presented herein is displayed as a set of publications comprising different thematic outlooks. The thesis develops an integrated coastal geoengineering approach which is intrinsically linked to the studied maritime environments. From sandy coasts and marine works to rocky platforms and sea cliffs, this study includes field work between Caminha – Figueira da Foz (NW Portugal) and Galicia (NW Spain). The research also involves an analysis and geological-geotechnical characterisation of natural rock (armourstone) and artificial units (concrete blocks) applied to coastal structures. The main goal is to contribute to the characterisation and re-evaluation of georesources and to determine armourstone suitability and availability from its source (quarry). It was also important to diagnose the geomaterials in situ concerning their degradation/deterioration level on the basis of the current status of the coastal protection works in order to facilitate more efficient monitoring and maintenance, with economic benefits. In the rocky coast approach the coastal blocks were studied along the platform, but also the geoforms were studied from a coastal morphodynamics point of view. A shoreline evolution analysis was developed for sandy coasts through Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) extension. In addition, the spatial and statistical analysis applied to sea cliffs allowed the establishment of susceptibility zones to erosion and hazardous areas. All of these studies have different purposes and results however, there is a common denominator – GIS mapping. Hence, apart from the studied coastal environment, there is an integrated system which includes a sequence of procedures and methodologies that persisted during the research period. This is a step forward in the study of different coastal environments by using almost the same methodologies. This will allow the characterisation, monitoring and assessment of coastal protection works, rocky coasts, and shore platforms. With such data, it is possible to propose or recommend strategies for coastal and shoreline management based on several justifications in terms of social, economic, and environmental questions, or even provide a GIS-based planning support system reinforced by geocartographic decisions. Overall the development of the applied cartography embraces six stages which will allow the production of detailed maps of the maritime environment: (1) high-resolution aerial imagery surveys; (2) visual inspection and systematic monitoring; (3) applied field datasheet; (4) in situ evaluation; (5) scanline surveying; and (6) GIS mapping. This thesis covers fundamental matters that were developed over the course of scientific publication and as a consequence they represent the results obtained and discussed. The subjects directly related to the thesis architecture are: (i) cartography applied to coastal dynamics (including an art historical analysis as a tool to comprehend the coastal evolution and the littoral zone); (ii) georesources assessment (the role of cartography in georesources zoning, assessment and armourstone durability); (iii) coastal geoengineering applications and monitoring (Espinho pilot site in NW Portugal as an experimental field); (iv) rocky coast and shore platform studies and characterisation; (v) sandy and mixed environment approaches; (vi) coastal geosciences GIS mapping and photogrammetric surveying (coastal geoengineering); and (vii) shoreline change mapping and coastal management strategies (the CartGalicia Project as an example – NW Spain). Finally, all of these thematic areas were crucial to generate the conceptual models proposed and to shape the future of integrated coastal coastal geoengineering management.

Application of LOICZ DPSIR framework to South asia Basins and developing typology for coastal vulnerability in South Asia

Dissertação de Mestrado, Gestão da Água e da Costa, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Universidade do Algarve, 2007

Autocyclic erosion in tidal marshes

A common mode whereby destruction of coastal lowlands occurs is frontal erosion. The edge cliffing, nonetheless, is also an inherent aspect of salt marsh development in many northwest European tidal marshes. Quite a few geomorphologists in the earlier half of the past century recognized such edge erosion as a definite repetitive stage within an autocyclic mode of marsh growth. A shift in research priorities during the past decades (primarily because of coastal management concerns, however) has resulted in an enhanced focus on sediment-flux measurement campaigns on salt marshes. This, somewhat "object-oriented" strategy hindered any further development of the once-established autocyclic growth concept, which virtually has gone into oblivion in recent times. This work makes an attempt to resurrect the notion of autocyclicity by employing its premises to address edge erosion in tidal marshes. Through a review of intertidal morphosedimentology the underlying framework for autocyclicity is envisaged. The phenomenon is demonstrated in the Holocene salt marsh plain of Moricambe basin in NW England that displays several distinct phases of marsh retreat in the form of abandoned clifflets. The suite of abandoned shorelines and terraces has been identified in detailed field mapping that followed analysis of topographic maps and aerial photographs. Vertical trends in marsh plain sediments are recorded in trenches for signs of past marsh front movements. The characteristic sea level history of the area offers an opportunity to differentiate the morphodynamic variability induced in the autocyclic growth of the marsh plain in scenarios of rising and falling sea level and the accompanied change in sediment budget. The ideas gathered are incorporated to construct a conceptual model that links temporal extent of marsh erosion to inner tidal flat sediment budget and sea level tendency. The review leads to recognition of the necessity of adopting an holistic approach in the morphodynamic investigations where marshes should be treated as a component within the "marsh-mudflat system" as each element apparently modulates evolution of the other, with an eventual linkage to subtidal channels. (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Granitic coastal geomorphology: Applying integrated terrestrial and bathymetric LiDAR with multibeam sonar to examine coastal landscape evolution

Coasts composed of resistant lithologies such as granite are generally highly resistant to erosion. They tend to evolve over multiple sea level cycles with highstands acting to remove subaerially weathered material. This often results in a landscape dominated by plunging cliffs with shore platforms rarely occurring. The long-term evolution of these landforms means that throughout the Quaternary these coasts have been variably exposed to different sea level elevations which means erosion may have been concentrated at different elevations from today. Investigations of the submarine landscape of granitic coasts have however been hindered by an inability to accurately image the nearshore morphology. Only with the advent of multibeam sonar and aerial laser surveying can topographic data now be seamlessly collected from above and below sea level. This study tests the utility of these techniques and finds that very accurate measurements can be made of the nearshore thereby allowing researchers to study the submarine profile with the same accuracy as the subaerial profile. From a combination of terrestrial and marine LiDAR data with multibeam sonar data, it is found that the morphology of granite domes is virtually unaffected by erosion at sea level. It appears that evolution of these landscapes on the coast is a very slow process with modern sea level acting only to remove subaerially weathered debris. The size and orientation of the joints determines the erosional potential of the granite. Where joints are densely spaced (<2 m apart) or the bedrock is highly weathered can semi-horizontal surfaces form.

Policy Brief: an assessment of the economic and social impacts of climate change on the coastal and marine sector in the Caribbean

Caribbean policymakers are faced with special challenges from climate change and these are related to the uncertainties inherent in future climate projections and the complex linkages among climate change, physical and biological systems and socioeconomic sectors. The impacts of climate change threaten development in the Caribbean and may well erode previous gains in development as evidenced by the increased incidence of climate migrants internationally. This brief which is based on a recent study conducted by the Economic Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean (LC/CAR/L.395)1 provides a synthesis of the assessment of the economic and social impacts of climate change on the coastal and marine sector in the Caribbean which were undertaken. It provides Caribbean policymakers with cutting-edge information on the region’s vulnerability and encourages the development of adaptation strategies informed by both local experience and expert knowledge. It proceeds from an acknowledgement that the unique combination of natural resources, ecosystems, economic activities, and human population settlements of the Caribbean will not be immune to the impacts of climate change, and local communities, countries and the subregion as a whole need to plan for, and adapt to, these effects. Climate and extreme weather hazards related to the coastal and marine sector encompass the distinct but related factors of sea level rise, increasing coastal water temperatures, tropical storms and hurricanes. Potential vulnerabilities for coastal zones include increased shoreline erosion leading to alteration of the coastline, loss of coastal wetlands, and changes in the abundance and diversity of fish and other marine populations. The study examines four key themes in the analysis: climate, vulnerability, economic and social costs associated with climate change impacts, and adaptive measures.

An assessment of the economic impact of climate change on the coastal and marine sector in the British Virgin Islands

Owing to their high vulnerability and low adaptive capacity, Caribbean islands have legitimate concerns about their future, based on observational records, experience with current patterns and consequences of climate variability, and climate model projections. Although emitting less than 1% of global greenhouse gases, islands from the region have already perceived a need to reallocate scarce resources away from economic development and poverty reduction, and towards the implementation of strategies to adapt to the growing threats posed by global warming (Nurse and Moore, 2005). The objectives of this Report are to conduct economic analyses of the projected impacts of climate change to 2050, within the context of the IPCC A2 and B2 scenarios, on the coastal and marine resources of the British Virgin Islands (BVI). The Report presents a valuation of coastal and marine services; quantitative and qualitative estimates of climate change impacts on the coastal zone; and recommendations of possible adaptation strategies and costs and benefits of adaptation. A multi-pronged approach is employed in valuing the marine and coastal sector. Direct use and indirect use values are estimated. The amount of economic activity an ecosystem service generates in the local economy underpins estimation of direct use values. Tourism and fisheries are valued using the framework developed by the World Resources Institute. Biodiversity is valued in terms of the ecological functions it provides, such as climate regulation, shoreline protection, water supply erosion control and sediment retention, and biological control, among others. Estimates of future losses to the coastal zone from climate change are determined by considering: (1) the effect of sea level rise on coastal lands; and (2) the effect of a rise in sea surface temperature (SST) on coastal waters. Discount rates of 1%, 2% and 4% are employed to analyse all loss estimates in present value terms. The overall value for the coastal and marine sector is USD $1,606 million (mn). This is almost 2% larger than BVI’s 2008 GDP. Tourism and recreation comprise almost two-thirds of the value of the sector. By 2100, the effects of climate change on coastal lands are projected to be $3,988.6 mn, and $2,832.9 mn under the A2 and B2 scenarios respectively. In present value terms, if A2 occurs, losses range from $108.1-$1,596.8 mn and if B2 occurs, losses range from $74.1-$1,094.1 mn, depending on the discount rate used. Estimated costs of a rise in SST in 2050 indicate that they vary between $1,178.0 and $1,884.8 mn. Assuming a discount rate of 4%, losses range from $226.6 mn for the B2 scenario to $363.0 mn for the A2 scenario. If a discount rate of 1% is assumed, estimated losses are much greater, ranging from $775.6-$1,241.0 mn. Factoring in projected climate change impacts, the net value of the coastal and marine sector suggests that the costs of climate change significantly reduce the value of the sector, particularly under the A2 and B2 climate change scenarios for discount rates of 1% and 2%. In contrast, the sector has a large, positive, though declining trajectory, for all years when a 4% discount rate is employed. Since the BVI emits minimal greenhouse gases, but will be greatly affected by climate change, the report focuses on adaptation as opposed to mitigation strategies. The options shortlisted are: (1) enhancing monitoring of all coastal waters to provide early warning alerts of bleaching and other marine events; (2) introducing artificial reefs or fish-aggregating devices; (3) introducing alternative tourist attractions; (4) providing retraining for displaced tourism workers; and (5) revising policies related to financing national tourism offices to accommodate the new climatic realities. All adaptation options considered are quite justifiable in national terms; each had benefit-cost ratios greater than 1.

Structural and strain analysis in the Late Paleozoic coastal accretionary wedge of central Chile

Abstract In this study structural and finite strain data are used to explore the tectonic evolution and the exhumation history of the Chilean accretionary wedge. The Chilean accretionary wedge is part of a Late Paleozoic subduction complex that developed during subduction of the Pacific plate underneath South America. The wedge is commonly subdivided into a structurally lower Western Series and an upper Eastern Series. This study shows the progressive development of structures and finite strain from the least deformed rocks in the eastern part of the Eastern Series of the accretionary wedge to higher grade schist of the Western Series at the Pacific coast. Furthermore, this study reports finite-strain data to quantify the contribution of vertical ductile shortening to exhumation. Vertical ductile shortening is, together with erosion and normal faulting, a process that can aid the exhumation of high-pressure rocks. In the east, structures are characterized by upright chevron folds of sedimentary layering which are associated with a penetrative axial-plane foliation, S1. As the F1 folds became slightly overturned to the west, S1 was folded about recumbent open F2 folds and an S2 axial-plane foliation developed. Near the contact between the Western and Eastern Series S2 represents a prominent subhorizontal transposition foliation. Towards the structural deepest units in the west the transposition foliation became progressively flat lying. Finite-strain data as obtained by Rf/Phi and PDS analysis in metagreywacke and X-ray texture goniometry in phyllosilicate-rich rocks show a smooth and gradual increase in strain magnitude from east to west. There are no evidences for normal faulting or significant structural breaks across the contact of Eastern and Western Series. The progressive structural and strain evolution between both series can be interpreted to reflect a continuous change in the mode of accretion in the subduction wedge. Before ~320-290 Ma the rocks of the Eastern Series were frontally accreted to the Andean margin. Frontal accretion caused horizontal shortening and upright folds and axial-plane foliations developed. At ~320-290 Ma the mode of accretion changed and the rocks of the Western Series were underplated below the Andean margin. This basal accretion caused a major change in the flow field within the wedge and gave rise to vertical shortening and the development of the penetrative subhorizontal transposition foliation. To estimate the amount that vertical ductile shortening contributed to the exhumation of both units finite strain is measured. The tensor average of absolute finite strain yield Sx=1.24, Sy=0.82 and Sz=0.57 implying an average vertical shortening of ca. 43%, which was compensated by volume loss. The finite strain data of the PDS measurements allow to calculate an average volume loss of 41%. A mass balance approximates that most of the solved material stays in the wedge and is precipitated in quartz veins. The average of relative finite strain is Sx=1.65, Sy=0.89 and Sz=0.59 indicating greater vertical shortening in the structurally deeper units. A simple model which integrates velocity gradients along a vertical flow path with a steady-state wedge is used to estimate the contribution of deformation to ductile thinning of the overburden during exhumation. The results show that vertical ductile shortening contributed 15-20% to exhumation. As no large-scale normal faults have been mapped the remaining 80-85% of exhumation must be due to erosion.

Reefs shift from net accretion to net erosion along a natural environmental gradient

Coral reefs persist in an accretion-erosion balance and ocean acidification resulting from anthropogenic CO2 emissions threatens to shift this balance in favor of net reef erosion. Corals and calcifying algae, largely responsible for reef accretion, are vulnerable to environmental changes associated with ocean acidification, but the direct effects of lower pH on reef erosion has received less attention, particularly in the context of known drivers of bioerosion and natural variability. This study examines the balance between reef accretion and erosion along a well-characterized natural environmental gradient in Kane'ohe Bay, Hawai'i using experimental blocks of coral skeleton. Comparing before and after micro-computed tomography (µCT) scans to quantify net accretion and erosion, we show that, at the small spatial scale of this study (tens of meters), pH was a better predictor of the accretion-erosion balance than environmental drivers suggested by prior studies, including resource availability, temperature, distance from shore, or depth. In addition, this study highlights the fine-scale variation of pH in coastal systems and the importance of microhabitat variation for reef accretion and erosion processes. We demonstrate significant changes in both the mean and variance of pH on the order of meters, providing a local perspective on global increases in pCO2. Our findings suggest that increases in reef erosion, combined with expected decreases in calcification, will accelerate the shift of coral reefs to an erosion-dominated system in a high-CO2 world. This shift will make reefs increasingly susceptible to storm damage and sea-level rise, threatening the maintenance of the ecosystem services that coral reefs provide.

Grain entrainment and transport rates of magnetic minerals of coastal sediment samples from the Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

Heavy (magnetic & non-magnetic) minerals are found concentrated by natural processes in many fluvial, estuarine, coastal and shelf environments with a potential to form economic placer deposits. Understanding the processes of heavy mineral transport and enrichment is prerequisite to interpret sediment magnetic properties in terms of hydro- and sediment dynamics. In this study, we combine rock magnetic and sedimentological laboratory measurements with numerical 3D discrete element models to investigate differential grain entrainment and transport rates of magnetic minerals in a range of coastal environments (riverbed, mouth, estuary, beach and near-shore). We analyzed grain-size distributions of representative bulk samples and their magnetic mineral fractions to relate grain-size modes to respective transport modes (traction, saltation, suspension). Rock magnetic measurements showed that distribution shapes, population sizes and grain-size offsets of bulk and magnetic mineral fractions hold information on the transport conditions and enrichment process in each depositional environment. A downstream decrease in magnetite grain size and an increase in magnetite concentration was observed from riverine source to marine sink environments. Lower flow velocities permit differential settling of light and heavy mineral grains creating heavy mineral enriched zones in estuary settings, while lighter minerals are washed out further into the sea. Numerical model results showed that higher heavy mineral concentrations in the bed increased the erosion rate and enhancing heavy mineral enrichment. In beach environments where sediments contained light and heavy mineral grains of equivalent grain sizes, the bed was found to be more stable with negligible amount of erosion compared to other bed compositions. Heavy mineral transport rates calculated for four different bed compositions showed that increasing heavy mineral content in the bed decreased the transport rate. There is always a lag in transport between light and heavy minerals which increases with higher heavy mineral concentration in all tested bed compositions. The results of laboratory experiments were validated by numerical models and showed good agreement. We demonstrate that the presented approach bears the potential to investigate heavy mineral enrichment processes in a wide range of sedimentary settings.

Coastal retreat at the northern Baltic Sea between Flensburg and Travemünde

Long-term surveys of the coast bordering the western Baltic Sea in Schleswig-Holstein yielded extensive information over the retreat and condition of active cliffs. 181 cliffs with a total length of 148 km are present along the 55 km coastline including Fehmarn lsland and the Schlei Fjord. Depending on their temporal and spatial evolution, and geomorphological stability, the cliffs are subdivided in three separate classes - actively retreating escarpments, cliff Segments with potential for retreat and stable cliffs. 85 sections of the coastline with a total length of 59 km are classified as ,,active cliffs" that are undergoing retreat through natural erosion, collapse, and disintegration.

Coastal shapes. Geentic clasification 1973 - 2010

An analysis of a stretch of coastline shows multiple alterations through environmental climate actions. The narrow, fragile line displays singularities due to three basic causes. The first is the discontinuity in feed or localised loss of solid coastal material. Called massics, their simplest examples are deltas and undersea canyons. The second is due to a brusque change in the alignment of the shoreline’s edge, headlands, groins, harbour and defence works. Given the name of geometric singularities, their simplest uses are artificial beaches in the shelter of a straight groin or spits. The third is due to littoral dynamics, emerged or submerged obstacles which diffract and refract wave action, causing a change in the sea level’s super-elevation in breaker areas. Called dynamics, the simplest examples are salients, tombolos and shells. Discussion of the causes giving rise to variations in the coastline and formation of singularities is the raison d’être of investigation, using actual cases to check the suitability of the classification proposed, the tangential or differential action of waves on the coastal landscape in addition to possible simple, compound and complex shapes detected in nature, both in erosion and deposit processes

Coastal Impacts Around Guadiaro River Mouth (Spain)

The “Port of Sotogrande” Beach (San Roque, Cadiz, Spain) has suffered significant erosion and changes since the construction of the marina and port of Sotogrande (San Roque, Cadiz, Spain). This paper reviews the dynamical processes on Guadiaro front and establishes relationship between them. It sets from a comparative evolution of the Alboran Sea Coast outlets and bays since the Little Ice Age, which shows that the Guadiaro estuary has remained functional while all other Alboran fluvial estuaries silted to son. The study shows the evidences of the coastal impacts around the mouth, even further than mouth littoral barriers, of the port infrastructures; and it provides new elements to understand the dynamical processes on the mouth and surroundings as well. That should be fundamental for shore protection along the whole coastal stretch