The Wool ComfortMeter and the Wool HandleMeter, new opportunities for wool

Two instruments have been developed by the Sheep CRC that provide the tools for a new standard in comfort and handle for the next generation of next-to-skin wool knitwear. The Wool ComfortMeter and Wool HandleMeter provide a rapid, accurate and objective measure of two important characteristics of wool knitwear that are currently determined by subjective assessment. The Wool HandleMeter allows the prediction of a set of handle attribute values that can quantify the hand feel of a lightweight jersey fabric. The instrument uses the principle of pushing a fabric sample through a ring. The force displacement curve associated with the fabric test is characterised and used to define each fabric. These values were then compared to the average handle values, as determined by a group of experts, of a large set of lightweight knitted fabrics. Algorithms were developed that enable the instrument to more accurately predict each of seven handle attributes than an individual expert. The Wool ComfortMeter provides a measure of the fibres that are protruding from the surface of the fabric that are responsible for the itchy sensation caused by some knitwear. The results from the instrument have been compared to the results from extensive wearer trials to provide an understanding of the relationship between the instrument value and the comfort perceptions of wearers. The results have shown a very clear relationship between the instrument and wearer trials.

Fibre properties affecting the softness of wool and other keratins

The emerging market for next-to-skin knitwear requires wool to satisfy the consumer’s tactile requirements for softness. The role of the fibre’s surface and physical properties on fibre and fabric softness was examined. The fibre’s cuticle properties were found to have a greater influence on softness than the fibre’s mechanical properties.

Thermal management of cotton fabrics by surface coating

Thermal management of cotton fabrics by applying thermal conductive and insulative coatings has been done successfully.

Relationships between sleeve trial and wearer trial assessment of discomfort and objective measurements

The relationships were investigated between the prickle discomfort scores, assessed by human response from wearer trial garment assessment, and sleeve trial, Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) and Wool HandleMeter (WHM) assessments of fabrics, and fiber diameter characteristics including mean fiber diameter (MFD). Sleeve trial assessment followed exercise, the use of a control sleeve to reduce participant variance and four sensory traits. WHM provides eight handle parameters calibrated against a panel of experts. Four scenarios were evaluated: sleeve trial assessment with MFD; sleeve trial assessment with MFD and WCM; sleeve trial assessment with MFD, WCM and WHM parameters; and sleeve trial assessment with WCM and WHM parameters. Data were analyzed using correlation and forward stepwise general linear modeling. There was no evidence that the incidence of fibers coarser than 30 µm aided the prediction of prickle discomfort once MFD had been accounted for in the models. There were significant correlations between the WCM measurement and each sleeve trial attribute. There was no significant correlation between WHM parameters and sleeve trial assessments. The sleeve trial attribute of ‘skin feel’ offers potential to improve the predictions made of wearer trial prickle discomfort when used in association of the WCM with or without data on fabric MFD. There was little evidence to support using WHM parameters with or without the WCM in predicting wearer assessed prickle discomfort of fabrics. These results indicate that the rapid evaluation of fabrics using sleeve trial assessment can provide cost effective ranking of consumer preferences.

Visible and UV functionality of TiO2 ternary nanocomposites on cotton

This research intends to increase the photocatalytic efficiency of cotton fabrics coated with TiO2-based nanocomposites under illumination particularly visible light. The fabrics were functionalized using a low-temperature sol-gel method of TiO2/Metal/SiO2 nanocomposite systems. Integrating silica and noble metals into TiO2 sol was put forth for boosting its functionality. Three noble metals (gold (Au), platinum (Pt) and silver (Ag)) with four different concentrations were employed. The photocatalytic activity of the functionalized fabrics was assessed through coffee stain-removal test and photodecomposition of methylene blue (MB) under UV and visible light. The impact of coating layers on fabrics' hydrophilicity was analyzed through measuring the water contact angle as well as the water absorption time. The fabrics were characterized using XRD, SEM and EDS. It was corroborated that the presence of silica enhanced the self-stain-removal capability of fabrics under UV. Moreover, the self-cleaning property of fabrics improved under both UV and visible light after integrating the metals into the colloids. In the same line, the self-cleaning activity threshold of fabrics was shifted to visible region.

Recent research and developments on yarn hairiness

Hairiness is an important quality parameter of spun yarns. It not only affects the quality of yarns, but also the weaving and knitting performance of yarns as well as the quality of the resultant fabrics. Various developments regarding yarn hairiness have been reported in the last decade. These cover aspects such as hairiness measurement, modeling, simulation, spinning modifications and post spinning treatments to reduce hairiness. This study is an attempt to critically review all significant recent developments regarding yarn hairiness. Further possibilities of research and future work are also briefly discussed.

Associations between the physiological basis of fabric-evoked prickle, fiber and yarn characteristics and the Wool ComfortMeter value

The association between the incidents counted by the measurement wire of the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) and the previously published neurophysiological basis for fabric-evoked prickle have been investigated for lightweight knitted woolen fabrics. The fiber lengths and diameters capable of triggering the fabric-evoked prickle sensation were calculated using Euler’s buckling formula, and it is suggested that fibers as fine as 10 mm are capable of triggering the prickle response if they have a short enough free length protruding from the surface. Good agreement was found between the sensory assessed human prickle sensation and the wearer prickle response predicted using the WCM outputs, especially when the latter were transformed using Stevens’s Psychophysical Power Law.

Physical properties of novel co-woven-knitted fabrics

 Co-woven-knitted (CWK) fabrics have been reported previously. Historically these unique structures have been used to develop composite and shielding fabrics. In this study, novel CWK structures with unique appearances was developed with a modified machine using wool and polyester yarns. The physical properties of these fabrics were compared with conventional woven and knitted fabrics. The thickness of the CWK fabrics was similar to knits. The fabrics showed a unique tensile strength, with higher bending rigidity, and performed better in abrasion resistance.

The Art of Wool

An edited volume that examines the place of wool in the artistic imagination of Australia and considers visual relationships between art and fashion.Part of a wider curatorial project that brings together garments from the International Woolmark Prize archive with works from the Howard Hinton and Chandler Coventry Collections at New England Regional Art Museum. Editor's Introduction:Tanya Zoe Robinson'Introduction: stories of wool'Essay authors:Margaret Maynard, Honorary Research Consultant, Queensland University'Wool fashions: comfort, tactility, innovation'Adam Geczy, Senior Lecturer, Sydney College of the Arts'The art-fashion crossover'Christine France OAM'Wool in the artistic imagination of Australia'

A study of the feasibility of wool bonded polyurethane for sportswear applications

This study investigates if surface modification, in conjunction with thermal transfer, will improve the adhesion of polyurethane films onto a wool fabric surface for sportswear application. Atmospheric pressure plasma and hydrogen peroxide treatments were used to enhance the surface energy of the wool fabric. Polyurethane polymer films were transferred onto the surface of treated fabrics using a hot press method. The effectiveness of different treatments to improve the adhesion of the film onto the wool surface was tested by washing fastness and the stretch recovery of polyurethane bonded fabrics. The results confirmed improvement on adhesion properties of wool bonded fabrics after different treatments.

Preventing wool photoyellowing with inorganic UV absorbers

 Novel nano-structured inorganic UV absorbers have been fabricated in this work to protect wool against wool photoyellowing. These inorganic UV absorbers also can be used in other field for UV protection.

Research on the influence of yarn parameters on the ultraviolet protection of yarns

Considering both the yarn parameters and the light interaction (reflectance and transmittance) between two adjacent yarns, an optical model was presented to understand the ultraviolet (UV) light penetrating a single undyed yarn and a lot of yarns. The optical model was verified with results of diffuse reflectance spectra measurement on wool yarn samples. This optical model was used to predict the factors influencing UV protection, including fibre diameter, yarn linear density, yarn twist, transmittance index and refractive index. The statistical predictive model was also set up to show the relationship between the yarn parameters and the UV protection (UPF values) of the yarns. Yarns with the fine diameter, large yarn linear density and low yarn twist had the high UV protection.

Photochromic fabrics with improved durability and photochromic performance

Previously, we have reported a method for producing photochromic wool fabric by applying a thin layer of hybrid silica-photochromic dye onto the wool surface. While the photochromic coating showed a very fast optical response and had little influence on the fabric handle, its durability was poor. In this study, the durability of the photochromic coating layer was improved by introducing epoxy groups into the silica matrix via co-hydrolysis and co-condensation of an alkyl trialkoxysilane compound (ATAS) and 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane (GPTMS). The presence of epoxy groups in the silica enhanced both washing and abrasion durability or fastness. In addition, the optical response speed was slightly increased as well. Effects of the type of alkyl silane and the GPTMS/alkyl silane ratio on the coating durability, fabric handle and optical response were examined.

Social fabrics

Existing wearable computing research and indeed commercial products, have explored how to control phones and music players in pockets. They have typically relied on interaction via simple flexible button sensors. This thesis proposes, design and develops new ways of interacting which explore the potential of clothes, such as pulling or stretching. Its aim to present and demonstrate the value of embodied and intuitive inputs based on standard clothing elements such as zips, fasteners, beads, Velcro and magnets. Individual interactions for each are described and discussed before a final combination application, the MusicHoodie, which is developed to control an MP3 player. A simple usability test on this system reveals a range of interesting and promising results about which were the most acceptable and understandable inputs. This thesis closes with a discussion of the implications and contributions of the work it presents.