An artificial neural network-based hairiness prediction model for worsted wool yarns

This study evaluated the performance of multilayer perceptron (MLP) and multivariate linear regression (MLR) models for predicting the hairiness of worsted-spun wool yarns from various top, yarn and processing parameters. The results indicated that the MLP model predicted yarn hairiness more accurately than the MLR model, and should have wide mill specific applications. On the basis of sensitivity analysis, the factors that affected yarn hairiness significantly included yarn twist, ring size, average fiber length (hauteur), fiber diameter and yarn count, with twist having the greatest impact on yarn hairiness.

The limiting irregularity of single wool fibers

Fiber irregularity affects fiber mechanical properties. This study has, for the first time, introduced the concept of limiting irregularity to single wool fibers. The limiting irregularity is the minimum variation in fiber cross sectional area that can be expected of a single wool fiber, assuming a random length-wise distribution of its constituent cortical cells. Cortical cells were extracted from merino wool fibers and their dimensions were measured from SEM images to calculate their cross sectional area variations both between cortical cells and within cortical cells, and to work out the average number of cortical cells in the cross section of wool fibers of a given diameter. Single wool fibers were also measured at 5 µm interval along length for fiber diameter variations. These variations were found to be larger than that based on fiber limiting irregularity.

Effects of leveling agent on the uptake of reactive dyes by untreated and plasma-treated wool

Atmospheric-pressure plasma treatment of wool fabric produced a significantly higher level of adsorbed fiber-reactive dye when applied at 50 °C (pH 3.0–6.0) in the absence of any organic leveling agent. In addition, color yields indicated that dye was more uniformly adsorbed by the plasma-treated fabric compared with the untreated material. When untreated fabric was dyed in the presence of a leveling agent (Albegal B), the extent and levelness of dye sorption were enhanced. These enhancements were, however, relatively small on the plasma-treated wool compared with those on untreated wool. A ‘surface’ mechanism, similar to that proposed when plasma-treated wool is dyed in the absence of leveling agent, can explain the leveling ability of Albegal B under adsorption conditions. Increasing the dyebath temperature to 90 °C resulted in dye penetration of the fibers. Under these conditions, any enhancements of dye uptake produced by the plasma treatment, as well as the use of Albegal B, were relatively small, in contrast to the behavior at 50 °C. Improvements in the uniformity of dye sorption observed at 50 °C were, however, maintained at the higher temperature. It is concluded that the inability of reactive dyes to migrate (and so promote leveling and uniformity) once they have reacted with the fiber, means that differences in the uniformity of dye sorbed at 50 °C are still apparent at equilibrium.

Effects of plasma treatment of wool on the uptake of sulfonated dyes with different hydrophobic properties

A wool fabric has been subjected to an atmospheric-pressure treatment with a helium plasma for 30 seconds. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry confirmed removal of the covalently-bound fatty acid layer (F-layer) from the surface of the wool fibers, resulting in exposure of the underlying, hydrophilic protein material. Dye uptake experiments were carried out at 50 ºC to evaluate the effects of plasma on the rate of dye uptake by the fiber surface, as well as give an indication of the adsorption characteristics in the early stages of a typical dyeing cycle. The dyes used were typical, sulfonated wool dyes with a range of hydrophobic characteristics, as determined by their partitioning behavior between water and n-butanol. No significant effects of plasma on the rate of dye adsorption were observed with relatively hydrophobic dyes. In contrast, the relatively hydrophilic dyes were adsorbed more rapidly (and uniformly) by the plasma-treated fabric. It was concluded that adsorption of hydrophobic dyes on plasma-treated wool was influenced by hydrophobic interactions, whereas electrostatic effects predominated for dyes of more hydrophilic character. On heating the dyebath to 90 ºC in order to achieve fiber penetration, no significant effect of the plasma treatment on the extent of uptake or levelness of a relatively hydrophilic dye was observed as equilibrium conditions were approached.

The photostability of wool doped with photocatalytic titanium dioxide

Photoyellowing of wool is a serious problem for the wool industry. This study assessed the role of photocatalytic nanocrystalline titanium dioxide (P-25) as a potential antagonist or catalyst in the photoyellowing of wool. Untreated, bleached and bleached and fluorescent-whitened wool slivers were processed into fine wool powders for the purpose of even and intimate mixing with the TiO2 nanoparticles in the solid state. Pure wool and wool/TiO2 mixtures were then compressed into solid discs for a photoyellowing study under simulated sunlight and under UVB and UVC radiations. Yellowness and photo-induced chemiluminescence (PICL) measurements showed that nanocrystalline TiO2 could effectively reduce the rate of photoyellowing by inhibiting free radical generation in doped wool, and that a higher concentration of TiO2 contributed to a lower rate of photooxidation and reduced photoyellowing. Hence nanocrystalline TiO2 acts primarily as a UV absorber on wool in dry conditions and not as a photocatalyst.

Thermoplastic film from superfine wool powder

In this paper a research work is described in which superfine wool powder was plasticised by glycerol and hot-pressed into a kind of thermoplastic film. SEM photos show that the powder is moulded into a smooth surface and is conglutinated into a continuous phase in the cross-section of the film. The glycerol content, moulding pressure, temperature and moulding time were changed in the moulding process. The sizes and thickness aw well as tensile strength, modulus, breaking elongation and breaking energy of the films were also tested to investigate the thermoplasticity and mechanical properties of the films. The best moulding techniques included a glycerol content of 30%, a moulding pressure of 5 MPa, a temperature of 160 °C and a moulding time of 5 minutes.

Role of water and surfactant in the solvent milling of wool

Unlike other fibres, wool felts readily when agitated in the presence of water. For this reason, only the minimum necessary quantity of water is used when the garments are drycleaned. However, wool fibres are often deliberately felted to obtain a warm bulky handle by controlled addition of water to the solvent. This process is known as solvent milling and recently, it has become a popular alternative to the traditional milling in water alone. Although the factors which influence milling in solvent are known, the relationships between them are not well defined. A comprehensive study of the relationship between water distribution and milling shrinkage during agitation of wool in perchloroethylene has been carried out in this thesis. The Karl Fischer method of determination was used throughout to establish the distribution of water between the wool fibre and the solvent liquor. The emphasis was placed on practical production variables. The role of surfactant in affecting milling shrinkage through its effect on the transport of water to the fibre from the solvent was examined. The ability of a suitable surfactant in promoting even and rapid sorption of water by the fibre was related to the colloidal properties of the milling liquor.

A comparison of the ICI Pillbox and the Random Tumble Methods is assessing pilling and appearance change of worsted spun cashmere and cashmere-wool blend knitwear

This study evaluated the differences between two international test methods on the assessment of pilling and appearance change of worsted spun cashmere and superfine wool knitwear and their blends. Differences between the standard ICI Pill Box Method and the Random Tumble Method were found in both the significance and magnitude of resistance to pilling and appearance change and the amount of fabric mass loss of worsted spun cashmere and cashmere superfine wool blend knit fabrics. The ICI Pill Box Method differentiated to a greater extent the effects of wool type and blend ratio of cashmere and wool compared with the Random Tumble Method. Generally the addition of cashmere or low crimp superfine wool resulted in fabrics being more resistance to pilling and appearance change compared with fabrics made from high crimp superfine wool. This was associated with increased fabric mass loss when assessed by the ICI Pill Box Method but not with the Random Tumble Method. KEYWORDS: Cashmere, crimp, wool, pilling, appearance change, knitwear

Processing and quality of cashmere tops for ultra-fine wool worsted blend fabrics

This study has focussed on three main areas. First, an evaluation of the physical attributes of cashmere tops available to commercial spinners; second, the influence of processing variables on the efficiency of producing cashmere tops from raw Australian cashmere; and third, the influence of design of cashmere ultrafine wool blends on the fibre curvature of tops. Testing the physical attributes of cashmere tops from traditional and new sources of supply, was followed by statistical analyses based on factors of origin, processor and other determinants. The analyses demonstrated important processor effects and also that cashmere from different origins shows commercially important variations in fibre attributes. It was possible to efficiently produce Australian cashmere tops with Hauteur, tenacity, extension, softness and residual guard hairs quality attributes equivalent to those observed in the best cashmere tops. The blending of cashmere with wool resulted in a reduction of the mean fibre curvature of the blend compared with the unblended wool. The present work demonstrated that the fibre curvature properties of blended low crimp ultrafine wool tops were closer to the properties of pure cashmere tops than were tops made from blended standard high crimp ultrafine wool. The attributes of textiles made from the relatively rare Australian low curvature cashmere could enhance the marketability of both Australian cashmere and low curvature wool.

The effect of pH on wool fiber diameter and fabric dimensions

Wool fabrics are often treated under conditions of varying pH in dyeing and finishing processes. It is known that in air the dimensions of wool fabrics change with the amount of fiber swelling at different regain. In this work, it has been shown that a similar relationship between fiber swelling and fabric dimensions existed in water at different pH values. The diameters of Merino and Corriedale wool fibers in water at different pH values were measured with an OFDA 2000 fiber diameter analyzer, fitted with a specially constructed accessory liquid cell. The results showed that the mean diameters of swollen wool fibers in water varied with pH. Minimum swelling was obtained in the range pH 5-7. It was found that the dimensions of wool fabric in water were dependent on the pH. The changes in fiber diameter in water could be attributed to changes in ionic interactions between charged acid and basic groups in wool protein with variations in pH.