Effect of nonlinear wave-current interaction on flow fields and hydrodynamic forces

A fifth-order theory for solving the problem of interaction between Stokes waves and exponential profile currents is proposed. The calculated flow fields are compared with measurements. Then the errors caused by the linear superposition method and approximate theory are discussed. It is found that the total wave-current field consists of pure wave, pure current and interaction components. The shear current not only directly changes the flow field, but also indirectly does sx, by changing the wave parameters due to wave-current interaction. The present theory can predict the wave kinematics on shear currents satisfactorily. The linear superposition method may give rise to more than 40% loading error in extreme conditions. When the apparent wave period is used and the Wheeler stretching method is adopted to extrapolate the current, application of the approximate theory is the best.

非平整运动海底上n层流动中波浪传播的Hamilton逼近

在海洋水域，界面波对大尺度变化流的作用是一种典型的分层流动现象。考虑一不可压缩、无黏的分层势流运动，建立了一个在非平整运动海底上的n层流体演化系统，并对其进行了Hamilton描述。每层流体具有各自的常密度、均匀流水平速度，其厚度由未扰动和扰动部分构成。相对于顶层流体的自由表面，刚性、运动的海底具有一般地形变化特征。在明确指出n层流体运动的控制方程和各层交界面上的运动学、动力学边界条件（包含各层交界面上张力效应）后，对该分层动力系统进行了Hamilton构造，即给出其正则方程和其下述的正则变量：各交界面位移和各交界面上的动量势密度差。

非平整、多孔介质海底上波浪传播的复合方程

为了反映近岸区域实际存在的多孔介质海底效应,并且考虑到波浪在刚性海底上传播模型的最新研究进展,运用Green第二恒等式建立了波浪在非平整、多孔介质海底上传播的复合方程.假设水深和多孔介质海底层厚度均由两种分量组成:慢变分量,其水平变化的长度尺度大于表面波的波长;快变分量,其水平变化的长度尺度与表面波的波长等阶,但其振幅小于表面波的振幅.另外,多孔介质层下部边界的快变分量比水深的快变分量小1个量级.针对水体层和多孔介质层,选择Green第二恒等式方法给出了波浪传播和渗透的复合方程,它在交接面上满足压力和垂直渗透速度的连续性条件,可充分考虑波数变化的一般连续性,并包含了某些著名的扩展型缓坡方程.

A New Model for Sediment Transport

The problem of predicting sediment transportation by water waves is treated analytically with the rate of wave energy dissipation or wave damping. With resorting to the theory of shallow water waves and the basis of Yamamoto’s Coulomb-damped poroelastic model, the Boussinesq-type equation has been derived over a variation depth bed. For convenience Cnoidal wave is just discussed, The Cnoidal wave with complex wave length and wave velocity, which are as a function of wave frequency, water depth, permeability, Poisson’s ratio and complex elastic moduli of bed soil, is applied to analyse the rate of sediment transportation. Considering the sediment transportation depended on the shear stress near-bed or the horizontal velocity, the conclusion of Yamamoto’s experiment in clay bed has been extended to general situation. It could be figured out that the model should provide a method to avoid the undistinguishable factors during sediment transport processes and relate mass transport with the sediment peculiarities.

海床对水表面波动态响应的研究

在设计各种各样的海工结构物时，必须考虑海洋波浪引起的海床变形乃至失稳问题。本文旨在通过波浪作用下海洋土动态响应的研究，对海洋土在各种加载条件下所呈现的动力学特点做全面细致的了解，揭示一些现象的力学机制，为工程设计提供可参考的科学依据。系统地研究了线性波和有限深底床相互作用下底床土层的动态响应。应用弱非弹性多孔介质模型，针对波浪衰减、底床中应力场分布以及土骨架位移等问题，进行了详细地分析。预测了在不同的波参数和土参数下，土床可能发生破坏的最大深度，分别分析了粗，细砂土床中渗滤作用和土颗粒之间的库仑摩擦对底床稳定性所带来的影响。通过对不同土质底床在波浪作用下所表现的动态特征，讨论了粉土床发生共振液化的力学机制，提出了共振液化发生的必要条件。考虑了非线性波和弱非弹性多孔介质的耦合，推导了在弱非弹性多孔介质上传播的浅水波方式，得到了依赖于土参数的椭圆余弦波波面方程，以及土床应力场和土骨架位移的关系式。根据浅水波相速度和衰减率的计算结果，分析了浅水波在不同土质底床上的传播特性，具体讨论了在椭圆余弦波作用下土床中孔隙水压力随波高和周期的变化关系，通过和线性波结果的比较分析，给出了该理论的适用范围，并得到他人实验结果的验证。分析了短峰和底床相互作用所引起的防波提失稳问题。给出了非完全反射防波堤前土床中的应力场分布，对短峰波所引起的底床液化势及剪切破坏进行了详细地讨论。针对不同土质底床，计算了底床最大破坏深度以及破坏区域随加载波周期、水深及入射角的变化关系。参照实际工程，讨论了考虑防波堤自重情况下防波堤的失稳，给出了敏感区域。

Tsunamis - a model of their generation and propagation

A general solution is presented for water waves generated by an arbitrary movement of the bed (in space and time) in a two-dimensional fluid domain with a uniform depth. The integral solution which is developed is based on a linearized approximation to the complete (nonlinear) set of governing equations. The general solution is evaluated for the specific case of a uniform upthrust or downthrow of a block section of the bed; two time-displacement histories of the bed movement are considered.

An integral solution (based on a linear theory) is also developed for a three-dimensional fluid domain of uniform depth for a class of bed movements which are axially symmetric. The integral solution is evaluated for the specific case of a block upthrust or downthrow of a section of the bed, circular in planform, with a time-displacement history identical to one of the motions used in the two-dimensional model.

Since the linear solutions are developed from a linearized approximation of the complete nonlinear description of wave behavior, the applicability of these solutions is investigated. Two types of non-linear effects are found which limit the applicability of the linear theory: (1) large nonlinear effects which occur in the region of generation during the bed movement, and (2) the gradual growth of nonlinear effects during wave propagation.

A model of wave behavior, which includes, in an approximate manner, both linear and nonlinear effects is presented for computing wave profiles after the linear theory has become invalid due to the growth of nonlinearities during wave propagation.

An experimental program has been conducted to confirm both the linear model for the two-dimensional fluid domain and the strategy suggested for determining wave profiles during propagation after the linear theory becomes invalid. The effect of a more general time-displacement history of the moving bed than those employed in the theoretical models is also investigated experimentally.

The linear theory is found to accurately approximate the wave behavior in the region of generation whenever the total displacement of the bed is much less than the water depth. Curves are developed and confirmed by the experiments which predict gross features of the lead wave propagating from the region of generation once the values of certain nondimensional parameters (which characterize the generation process) are known. For example, the maximum amplitude of the lead wave propagating from the region of generation has been found to never exceed approximately one-half of the total bed displacement. The gross features of the tsunami resulting from the Alaskan earthquake of 27 March 1964 can be estimated from the results of this study.

Applications of improved 2-D numerical wave tanks in wave breaking

Song and Banner (2002, henceforth referred to as SB02) used a numerical wave tank (developed by Drimer and Agnon, and further refined by Segre, henceforth referred to as DAS) to study the wave breaking in the deep water, and proposed a dimensionless breaking threshold that based on the behaviour of the wave energy modulation and focusing during the evolution of the wave group. In this paper, two modified DAS models are used to further test the SB02's results, the first one (referred to MDAS1) corrected many integral calculation errors appeared in the DAS code, and the second one (referred to MDAS2) replaced the linear boundary element approximation of DAS into the cubic element on the free surface. Researches show that the results of MDAS1 are the same with those of DAS for the simulations of deep water wave breaking, but, the different values of the wavemaker amplitude, the breaking time and the maximum local average energy growth rate delta(max) for the marginal breaking cases are founded by MDAS2 and MDAS1. However, MDAS2 still satisfies the SB02' s breaking threshold. Furthermore, MDAS1 is utilized to study the marginal breaking case in the intermediate water depth when wave passes over a submerged slope, where the slope is given by 1 : 500, 1 : 300, 1 : 150 or 1 : 100. It is found that the maximum local energy density U increases significantly if the slope becomes steeper, and the delta(max) decreases weakly and increases intensively for the marginal recurrence case and marginal breaking case respectively. SB02's breaking threshold is still valid for the wave passing over a submerged slope gentler than 1 : 100 in the intermediate water depth.

大型反倾岩体变形破坏机制及稳定性分析———以金沙江宽谷坝址龙蟠边坡为例

A large number of catastrophic accidents were aroused by the instability and destruction of anti-dip rock masses in the worldwide engineering projects, such as hydropower station, mine, railways and so on. Problems in relation to deformation and failure about anti-dip rock slopes are significant for engineering geology research. This dissertation takes the Longpan slope in the Jinsha River as a case to study the deformation mechanism of large-scale anti-dip rock masses and the slope stability analysis method. The primary conclusions are as follows. The Dale Reach of Jinsha River, from Longpan to the debouchment of Chongjiang tributary, is located in the southeastern margin of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Longpan slope is the right embankment of Dale dam, it is only 26 km to the Shigu and 18 km to Tiger Leaping Gorge. The areal geology tectonic structures here area are complicated and blurry. Base on the information of geophysical exploration (CSAMT and seismology) and engineering geological investigation, the perdue tectonic pattern of Dale Reach is put forward for the first time in this paper. Due to the reverse slip of Longpan fault and normal left-rotation of Baihanchang fault, the old faulted valley came into being. The thick riverbed sediments have layered characters of different components and corresponding causes, which attribute to the sedimentary environments according with the new tectonic movements such as periodic mountain uplifting in middle Pleistocene. Longpan slope consists of anti-dip alternate sandstone and slate stratums, and the deformable volume is 6.5×107m3 approximately. It was taken for an ancient landslide or toppling failure in the past so that Dale dam became a vexed question. Through the latest field surveying, displacement monitoring and rock masses deforming characters analyses, the geological mechanism is actually a deep-seated gravitational bending deformation. And then the discrete element method is used to simulate the deforming evolution process, the conclusion accords very well with the geo-mechanical patterns analyses. In addition strength reduction method based on DEM is introduced to evaluate the factor of safety of anti-dip rock slope, and in accordance with the expansion way of the shear yielding zones, the progressive shear failure mechanism of large-scale anti-dip rock masses is proposed for the first time. As an embankment or a close reservoir bank to the lower dam, the stability of Longpan slope especially whether or not resulting in sliding with high velocity and activating water waves is a key question for engineering design. In fact it is difficult to decide the unified slip surface of anti-dip rock slope for traditional methods. The author takes the shear yielding zones acquired form the discrete element strength reduction calculation as the potential sliding surface and then evaluates the change of excess pore pressure and factor of stability of the slope generated by rapid drawdown of ponded water. At the same time the dynamic response of the slope under seismic loading is simulated through DEM numerical modeling, the following results are obtained. Firstly the effective effect of seismic inertia force is resulting in accumulation of shear stresses. Secondly the discontinuous structures are crucial to wave transmission. Thirdly the ultimate dynamic response of slope system takes place at the initial period of seismic loading. Lastly but essentially the effect of earthquake load to bringing on deformation and failure of rock slope is the coupling effect of shear stresses and excess pore water pressure accumulation. In view of limitations in searching the critical slip surface of rock slope of the existing domestic and international software for limit equilibrium slope stability analyses, this article proposes a new method named GA-Sarma Algorithm for rock slope stability analyses. Just as its name implies, GA-Sarma Algorithm bases on Genetic Algorithm and Sarma method. GA-Sarma Algorithm assumes the morphology of slip surface to be a broken line with traceability to extend along the discontinuous surface structures, and the slice boundaries is consistent with rock mass discontinuities such as rock layers, faults, cracks, and so on. GA-Sarma Algorithm is revolutionary method that is suitable for global optimization of the critical slip surface for rock slopes. The topics and contents including in this dissertation are closely related to the difficulties in practice, the main conclusions have been authorized by the engineering design institute. The research work is very meaningful and useful for the engineering construction of Longpan hydropower station.

Hydraulics of stepped chutes: experimental-numerical-theoretical study

O estudo de escoamentos turbulentos em descarregadores em degraus tem sido um desafio para os investigadores. A macro-rugosidade do leito, a ondulação da superfície livre, a intermitência da localização da secção inicial de entrada de ar e o escoamento bi-fásico a jusante da secção inicial de entrada de ar fazem com que a caracterização do escoamento deslizante sobre turbilhões em descarregadores em degraus não seja simples. Actualmente, é possível combinar técnicas de medição fiáveis com simulações numéricas e análise teórica. Nesta dissertação, o estudo experimental baseia-se em resultados experimentais obtidos em duas instalações experimentais: a instalação A, do Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil (LNEC), dotada de um descarregador em degraus com declive de 1V:0.75H e a instalação B, do Instituto Superior Técnico (IST), dotada de um descarregador em degraus com declive de 1V:2H. Uma sonda de ar, um tubo de Pitot modificado e vários hidrómetros permitiram o estudo do escoamento deslizante sobre turbilhões mono- e bifásico ao longo do descarregador em degraus da instalação A. Na bacia de dissipação de energia, a observação visual do escoamento foi auxiliada pelas leituras efectuadas em tomadas de pressão localizadas na soleira da bacia e pelas leituras da altura do escoamento efectuadas em réguas graduadas localizadas nas paredes da bacia. Na instalação B foram utilizados um tubo de Pitot e vários hidrómetros para estudar a região não arejada do escoamento deslizante sobre turbilhões no descarregador em degraus. O estudo numérico é baseado em simulações numéricas da região não arejada do escoamento deslizante sobre turbilhões sobre descarregadores em degraus com o código comercial de CFD FLOW-3D® de modo a reproduzir as condições ensaiadas experimentalmente. As simulações beneficiaram da técnica de blocos múltiplos (multi-block) num sistema de coordenadas cartesianas, da determinação da superfície livre pelo método TruVOF e da utilização de dois modelos de turbulência: os modelos k- e RNG k-. Por último, o estudo teórico consistiu em desenvolver um modelo simplificado 1D para determinar as características hidráulicas principais do trecho não arejado do escoamento deslizante sobre turbilhões em descarregadores em degraus. O modelo foi desenvolvido a partir das equações de Navier-Stokes, conjuntamente com resultados experimentais e numéricos. Os resultados apresentados nesta dissertação contribuem para o conhecimento do escoamento deslizante sobre turbilhões em descarregadores em degraus, nomeadamente na região não arejada, na secção inicial de entrada de ar e na região arejada. A hidráulica dos dissipadores de energia a jusante de descarregadores em degraus, em particular das bacias tipo III do USBR, é também objecto de estudo. Em relação à região não arejada do escoamento em descarregadores com declive acentuado, e com base em resultados experimentais e numéricos, são propostas expressões para estimar o desenvolvimento da altura equivalente de água, da espessura da camada limite, da concentração média de ar, do coeficiente de energia cinética, da dissipação de energia, do factor de resistência e do coeficiente n da fórmula de Manning. São ainda propostas expressões adimensionais para a energia cinética turbulenta e sua dissipação. Para declives moderados, são propostas expressões para estimar o desenvolvimento da altura equivalente de água, do coeficiente de energia cinética e da energia específica residual. São ainda apresentados valores do expoente 1/N da expressão adimensional da distribuição de velocidades, quer para descarregadores com declive acentuado quer com declive moderado. Em conformidade com outros estudos centrados em escoamentos de parede e com derivações teóricas, para a região não arejada do escoamento em descarregadores em degraus de acentuado declive, observa-se que o factor de resistência depende da macro-rugosidade criada pelos degraus e da geometria da secção transversal e que o coeficiente n da fórmula de Manning aumenta com a rugosidade. A descrição estatística da turbulência do escoamento é igualmente explorada, contribuindo para o conhecimento da estrutura do escoamento. Observou-se que para números de Reynolds rugoso não superiores a 6.8x104 a energia cinética turbulência e a sua dissipação cumprem leis de semelhança. Estas expressões adimensionais estão de acordo com os resultados obtidos por outros autores para escoamentos completamente desenvolvidos em canais abertos e no escoamento em rios com leito de gravilha. Em acréscimo, a taxa de dissipação de energia, quer para descarregadores de declive acentuado quer de moderado declive, é baixa. Por último, observa-se que os valores da média temporal da concentração de ar entre 0 e 1 medidos na região não arejada do escoamento dizem respeito não só ao ar capturado entre ondas de água, na zona de ondulação da superfície livre, mas também ao ar emulsionado no escoamento, i.e., sob a forma de bolhas de ar, quando perto da secção média inicial de entrada de ar, devido à diferença entre localizações instantânea e média temporal. Foram revistas metodologias e fórmulas para estimar a localização da secção inicial de entrada de ar e apresentadas expressões para estimar a concentração média de ar e a altura equivalente de água nessa secção. Relativamente à região de escoamento arejado em descarregadores em degraus com declive acentuado, os resultados experimentais apresentados nesta dissertação permitiram estimar a influência da definição da superfície livre nos parâmetros hidráulicos da região do escoamento arejado e estimar a máxima elevação do escoamento nesta região do escoamento. Com base nos resultados experimentais obtidos na bacia de dissipação de energia do tipo III do USBR localizada a jusante do descarregador em degraus da instalação A, observou-se que os perfis da altura piezométrica e da altura do escoamento tendem a seguir o perfil recomendado pelo USBR para bacias tipo III. A excepção ocorre à entrada da bacia, onde as alturas piezométricas apresentadas nesta dissertação excedem largamente as apresentadas pelo USBR. É ainda observado que, tal como entre as bacias tipo I e tipo III do USBR, o ressalto hidráulico estabiliza muito mais rapidamente numa bacia tipo III a jusante de um descarregador em degraus do que uma bacia tipo I a jusante do mesmo descarregador em degraus. Finalmente, observa-se que os blocos de amortecimento a colocar no descarregador não têm influência visível nos resultados da altura piezométrica nem da altura do escoamento ao longo da bacia. Relativamente às simulações numéricas do escoamento não arejado, a proximidade entre resultados experimentais e numéricos permite validar o modelo teórico e a integração numérica usados no FLOW-3D®. As simulações desenvolvidas também mostraram que o modelo de turbulência k- permite representar as características do escoamento não arejado em descarregadores em degraus, uma vez que não foram observadas diferenças significativas entre as simulações com este modelo e com o modelo RNG k-. Finalmente, observou-se que o modelo de entrada de ar usado no FLOW-3D® é válido para estimar a localização da secção inicial de entrada de ar. Por último, a proximidade entre os resultados obtidos da aplicação do modelo teórico desenvolvido no âmbito desta dissertação e os resultados experimentais indica que as hipóteses e simplificações consideradas no desenvolvimento do modelo são adequadas.

Wave Height Ano Speotral Transformation In The Shallow Waters Of Kerala Ooast And Their Preoiotion

There are basically two methods for prediction of shallow water waves, viz. the graphical method and the numerical method. The numerical methods are being widely used, now—a—days, because they are fast, accurate and are especially useful when the prediction over a large spatial frame is required. Practically little has been done on the development of numerical models for the prediction of height and spectral transformation of waves as applicable to our coasts. Synchronized deep and shallow water wave measurements which are essential for study of wave transformation are very much lacking for our coasts. Under these circumstances, a comprehensive study of the wave transformation in the shallow waters of our coast was felt very important and is undertaken in the present investigation.

Numerical Modelling of Tsunami Propagation in the South East Arabian Sea (SEAS) and Inundation along the Kerala Coast

Tsunamis are water waves generated by a sudden vertical displacement of the water surface. They are waves generated in the ocean by the disturbance associated with seismic activity, under sea volcanic eruptions, submarine landslides, nuclear explosion or meteorite impacts with the ocean. These waves are generated in the ocean and travel into coastal bays, gulfs, estuaries and rivers. These waves travel as gravity waves with a velocity dependent on water depth. The term tsunami is Japanese and means harbour (tsu) and wave (nami). It has been named so because such waves often develop resonant phenomena in harbours after offshore earthquakes.

A geometric approach to generalized Stokes conjectures

We consider the Stokes conjecture concerning the shape of extreme two-dimensional water waves. By new geometric methods including a nonlinear frequency formula, we prove the Stokes conjecture in the original variables. Our results do not rely on structural assumptions needed in previous results such as isolated singularities, symmetry and monotonicity. Part of our results extends to the mathematical problem in higher dimensions.

Understanding the tsunami with a simple model

In this paper, we use the approximation of shallow water waves (Margaritondo G 2005 Eur. J. Phys. 26 401) to understand the behaviour of a tsunami in a variable depth. We deduce the shallow water wave equation and the continuity equation that must be satisfied when a wave encounters a discontinuity in the sea depth. A short explanation about how the tsunami hit the west coast of India is given based on the refraction phenomenon. Our procedure also includes a simple numerical calculation suitable for undergraduate students in physics and engineering.

Métodos analíticos, numéricos e experimentais para o cálculo de ondas de impacto em meios líquidos

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)