Wool industry : a decade of turbulence : an examination of some of the factors contributing to the crisis within Australia's wool industry, and the resulting economic, social and demographic effects on a small isolated rural community

A central issue of this thesis has been an examination of the effects that the current wool crisis has had on the Balmoral district, an area almost solely devoted to the production of wool and wool sheep. Examines the methods being utilised to try to alleviate some of these effects.

Study on the antibacterial properties of superfine wool powder part I : experiment

The superfine wool-powder was prepared by ball and jet milling. According to FZ/T 01021-92 method the bacteriostatic property of the wool-powder was tested. The results showed that wool-powder had excellent antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli (E. coli) and Staphylococcus (MRSA), and the antibacterial rate of E. coli could reach 85% and the MRSA could exceed 70%. The IR spectroscopy and X-ray diffraction analysis were used to discuss the antibacterial properties of superfine wool-powder.

Ultrasonic scouring of wool and its effects on fibre breakage during carding

Ultrasonics has shown the potential to reduce the cost and environmental impact of textile processing. This work investigates the impact of ultrasonic scouring on fibre entanglement caused during the scouring process. Levels of fibre entanglement were quantified by measuring fibre length using OFDA4000 after carding. A significant reduction in fibre entanglement after ultrasonic scouring was observed and this was due to a reduced fibre migration in the wash bath when compared with the mechanical agitation seen in conventional scouring process. Fibre cuticle scale damage resulting from the ultrasonic irradiation may also have contributed to the reduction in fibre entanglement. A reduced level of fibre entanglement from ultrasonic wool scouring leads to a reduction in fibre breakage during carding.

Influence of trace-metals on the colour and photostability of wool

This study expands the knowledge of the mechanisms that cause wool to yellow. It established that metals in wool influence the production of free radicals and the extent of degradation and yellowing of photo-irradiated wool. It also examined the relationship between the colour and trace metal content of fleece wool.

Effects of pH on the stress-strain properties of wool fabric

In wool dyeing and finishing processes, fabric is often treated under conditions of different pHs and is subjected to a variety of physical and chemical environments. This work investigates fabric tensile properties at three different fabric pHs. Wool fabric extensibility under a 5 N/cm load was observed to be greatest at the wool isoelectric point of pH 4.8 and lower at both pH 2.1 and pH 7.2. The impact of pH on fabric extensibility was found to be similar to the variation in fabric hygral expansion previously observed. Fabric stress–strain curves at different pHs showed that for a given fabric extension level, the work required to stretch a fabric was less at pH 2.1 than at pH 4.8. These results suggest that the strength of wool fabric is at maximum when the pH of the fibres is close to the wool isoelectric point and that for consistency, the pH of fabric should be adjusted before standard strength tests are carried out.

Effect of surface treatment and knit structure on comfort properties of wool fabrics

The comfort properties of the pique and single jersey knitted wool fabrics were investigated using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM). The fabrics were knitted in three cover factors and treated with either plasma or a silicone softening agent and were compared with untreated fabrics. Plasma treatment did not show significant effects on the comfort value. However, silicone polymer significantly reduced WCM values suggesting that the silicone coating reduced the number of protruding fibres on the fabric surface. Regardless of treatment used, pique fabrics showed a lower WCM value, and therefore were perceived to be more comfortable than the single jersey structure. While the effect of cover factor was not significant, in fitted model to predict the WCM value of fabrics, mass/unit area and fabric thickness were significant predictors along with fabric structure and finishing treatment.

Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability

Felting is a unique attribute of animal fibres used for the production of a range of industrial and apparel textiles. Felting can be an adverse attribute as a consequence of dimensional shrinkage during laundering. As there is little objective information regarding the feltability of rare animal fibres or the factors which may affect felting three investigations were undertaken. A survey (n = 114) of the feltability of cashmere from different origins of production, cashgora, quivet, camel hair, llama, guanaco, bison wool, cow fibre and yak wool quantified the large variation between and within these fibre types. Cashmere from some origins and cashgora produced higher feltball density than the other fibres. Different nutritional management of cashmere goats (n = 35) showed that cashmere grown by poorly fed goats had a lower propensity to felt compared with cashmere grown by better fed goats. A consequence of the progressive blending of cashmere (n = 27) with a low propensity to felt superfine wool (high fibre curvature) increased the propensity of the blend to felt, but when the same cashmere was blended with low curvature superfine wool, there was little or no effect on feltability. The mechanisms which lead to variance in feltability of these fibres were quantified with multiple regression modelling. The mechanisms were similar to those reported for wools, namely variations in the resistance to compression, fibre curvature and mean fibre diameter, with likely effects of fibre crimp form. It is possible to source cashmere and other animal fibres which have different propensities to felt and therefore to produce textiles which are likely to have different textile properties.

Effects of site of assessment and variation in wool quality traits on the tactile assessment of textural greasy wool handle

Variation in textural greasy wool handle across the fleece of Merino sheep was explored. Results demonstrate that there were significant differences across nine sites on the fleece. The inclusion of the covariates fibre diameter, fibre diameter co-efficient of variation, staple length, dust penetration, staple structure, greasy wool colour and resistance to compression, helped to explain some of the variation in textural greasy wool handle between sites such that site of assessment was no longer a significant factor (P ≤ 0.065). However, in practice, those involved with clip preparation or sheep selection based on textural greasy wool handle assessment are unlikely to have these measurements available. The results highlight the importance of nominating a site of assessment when recording textural greasy wool handle. © CSIRO 2014.

Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

Previous investigations have shown that prickle discomfort sensations of wool fabrics are primarily determined by the mean fiber diameter of the wool. It is also known that differences in wool fiber curvature (crimp) affect softness of handle of greasy wool and of wool textiles. In a replicated experiment, we investigated if wearers could detect the effect of using 17 µm superfine wool of low (74°/mm) or high (114°/mm) fiber curvature, and when the wools were blended with 17 µm cashmere (fiber curvature 49°/mm) in differing proportions, on four comfort sensations. Eight single jersey knitted fabrics were assessed under a controlled protocol using forearm sleeves made of the test fabric and a control fabric. Data (37 sensorial assessments of high curvature wool fabrics; 38 sensorial assessments of low curvature wool fabrics) were analyzed using linear mixed model analysis (restricted maximum likelihood), which included fixed effects for wool type and blend ratio and a random effect for participant. The use of a control sleeve fabric reduced variance due to participant effects by providing an anchor for each sensation over time. Wool fiber curvature affected participant assessment of breathability, comfort, feel after exercise (damp/dry) and skin feel (prickly/soft), with preferred values associated with high curvature (crimp) superfine wool. Increasing the proportion of cashmere in fabrics increased skin feel (better assessed softness). Skin feel was strongly associated with the evaluation of the fabrics by the Wool ComfortMeter and with increasing hairiness of yarns.