836 resultados para Clothes factories
Resumo:
This dissertation presents a comparative study of three factories in Cork Harbour area, Sunbeam Wolsey (1927-90), Irish Steel (1939-2001) and the Ford Marina Plant (1917-84). All three factories were significant industrial employers in both a domestic (Irish) and a local (Cork) context and are broadly representative of the Irish manufacturing industry that was developed under the policies of tariff protection introduced in the 1930s and gradually phased out between the late 1950s and the mid-1980s. Sunbeam Wolsey was a textile and clothing concern located on the north side of Cork City that possessed a borderline monopoly within its economic sector and was among the largest private employers of female labour in twentieth century Ireland. Irish Steel was the country’s only steel mill, located on Haulbowline island, a brief ferry-ride from the seaside town of Cobh, and was unusual in being one of the few manufacturing concerns operated as a nationalised industry under the auspices of the state. The Ford Marina plant predated the introduction of protectionism by more than a decade and began as the centre of the Ford empire’s tractor manufacturing business, before switching to the production of private motor vehicles for the Irish market in 1932. All three industries were closed or sold off when the state withdrew support, either in the form of tariff protection (Ford, Sunbeam) or direct funding (Irish Steel). While devoting much attention to the three firms, the central concern of this dissertation is not the companies themselves (though the economic history portion of the dissertation is substantial), but the workers they employed, examining the lives of these individuals both as members of the Irish working class, and, more specifically, as employees of the three factories under consideration. The project can be best described as a comparative factory study, comparing and contrasting the three workforces, focusing primarily on industrial relation and the experience of work. This dissertation utilises both documentary evidence and a significant quantity of oral testimony, breaking new ground by making the workplace the central focus of its investigation. The principal aims of the study are: 1. To document the lives of those who worked in these factories, capturing through oral testimony their subjective experiences of social class and factory life, as well as differences among narrators in terms of gender and status. In achieving this aim, the study will provide a broader social context for its detailed analysis of work and industrial relations in each firm. 2. To analyse the three workplaces and determine how and why each developed such distinct systems of industrial relations at the factory level, as well as to compare and contrast these systems. 3. To examine the nature of work in each factory and to determine how work and industrial relations in each firm developed over time, relating these changes both to internal and external factors. Additionally, the project will provide a comparative analysis of these changes.
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Broadly speaking, axiology is the study of values. Axiologies are expressed materially in patterns of choices that are both culture-bound and definitive of different cultures. They are expressed in the language we use; in the friends we keep; in the clothes we wear; in what we read, write, and watch; in the technologies we use; in the gods we believe in and pray to; in the music we make and listen to—indeed, in every kind of activity that can be counted as a definitive element of culture. In what follows, I describe the axiological underpinnings of two closely related multimedia repository projects— Australian Creative Resources Online (ACRO) and The Canadian Centre for Cultural Innovation (CCCI)—and how these are oriented towards a potentially liberating role for digital repositories.
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Our understanding of how the environment can impact human health has evolved and expanded over the centuries, with concern and interest dating back to ancient times. For example, over 4000 years ago, a civilisation in northern India tried to protect the health of its citizens by constructing and positioning buildings according to strict building laws, by having bathrooms and drains, and by having paved streets with a sewerage system (Rosen 1993). In more recent times, the ‘industrial revolution’ played a dominant role in shaping the modern world, and with it the modern public health system. This era was signified by rapid progress in technology, the growth of transportation and the expansion of the market economy, which lead to the organisation of industry into a factory system. This meant that labour had to be brought to the factories and by the 1820s, poverty and social distress (including overcrowding and infrequent sewage and garbage disposal) was more widespread than ever. These circumstances, therefore, lead to the rise of the ‘sanitary revolution’ and the birth of modern public health (Rosen 1993). The sanitary revolution has also been described as constituting the beginning of the first wave of environmental concern, which continued until after World War 2 when major advances in engineering and chemistry substantially changed the face of industry, particularly the chemical sector. The second wave of environmental concern came in the mid to late 20th century and was dominated by the environmental or ecology movement. A landmark in this era was the 1962 publication of the book Silent Spring by Rachel Carson. This identified for the first time the dramatic effects on the ecosystem of the widespread use of the organochlorine pesticide, DDT. The third wave of environmental concern commenced in the 1980s and continues today. The accelerated rate of economic development, the substantial increase in the world population and the globalisation of trade have dramatically changed the production methods and demand for goods in both developed and developing countries. This has lead to the rise of ‘sustainable development’ as a key driver in environmental planning and economic development (Yassi et al 2001). The protection of health has, therefore, been a hallmark of human history and is the cornerstone of public health practice. This chapter introduces environmental health and how it is managed in Australia, including a discussion of the key generic management tools. A number of significant environmental health issues and how they are specifically managed are then discussed, and the chapter concludes by discussing sustainable development and its links with environmental health.
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The high moisture content of mill mud (typically 75–80% for Australian factories) results in high transportation costs for the redistribution of mud onto cane farms. The high transportation cost relative to the nutrient value of the mill mud results in many milling companies subsidising the cost of this recycle to ensure a wide distribution across the cane supply area. An average mill would generate about 100 000 t of mud (at 75% moisture) in a crushing season. The development of mud processing facilities that will produce a low moisture mud that can be effectively incorporated into cane land with existing or modified spreading equipment will improve the cost efficiency of mud redistribution to farms; provide an economical fertiliser alternative to more farms in the supply area; and reduce the potential for adverse environmental impacts from farms. A research investigation assessing solid bowl decanter centrifuges to produce low moisture mud with low residual pol was undertaken and the results compared to the performance of existing rotary vacuum filters in factory trials. The decanters were operated on filter mud feed in parallel with the rotary vacuum filters to allow comparisons of performance. Samples of feed, mud product and filtrate were analysed to provide performance indicators. The decanter centrifuge could produce mud cakes with very low moistures and residual pol levels. Spreading trials in cane fields indicated that the dry cake could be spread easily by standard mud trucks and by trucks designed specifically to spread fertiliser.
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The ISSCT Process Section workshop held in Réunion 20–23 October 2008 was attended by 51 delegates from 10 countries. The theme was Green cane impact on sugar processing. The workshop provided a valuable and timely opportunity to review and discuss the impact on factory operations and performance from a green cane supply that could include significant levels of trash. It was particularly relevant to those mills that were considering options to boost their biomass intake for increased co-generation capacity. Several of the speakers related their experiences with processing ‘whole of crop’ cane supplies through the factory. Speakers detailed the problems and increased losses that were incurred when processing cane with high trash levels. The consensus of the delegates was that the best scenario would involve a cane-cleaning plant at the factory so that only clean cane would be processed through the factory. The forum recommended that more research was required to address the issues of increased impurities in the process streams associated with high trash levels. Site visits to the two factories and a cane-delivery station were arranged as part of the workshop.
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Fermentation feedstocks in the sugar industry are based on cane juice, B molasses or final molasses. Brazil has been producing ethanol by directing sugarcane juice to fermentation directly or using lower quality juice as a diluent with B molasses to prepare the fermentation broth. One issue that has received only limited interest particularly from outside Brazil is the most appropriate conditions for clarification of the juice going to fermentation. Irrespective of whether the juice supply is the total flow from the milling tandem or a diffuser station or a part of the total flow, removal of the insoluble solids is essential. However, the standard defecation process used by sugar factories around the world to clarify juice can introduce unwanted calcium ions and remove other nutrients such as phosphorus and nitrogen that are considered essential for the fermentation process. An investigation was undertaken by SRI to assess the effects on the constituents of cane juice when subjected to the typical clarification process in an Australian factory and what conditions would be needed to provide a clarified juice suitable for fermentation. Typical juices from one factory were clarified in laboratory trials under a range of pH conditions and the resulting clarified juices analysed. The results indicated that pH had a major effect on the residual concentrations of key constituents in the clarified juice and that the selected clarification conditions are determined by the nominated quality criteria of clarified juice feedstock for fermentation. Further trials were conducted in overseas factories to confirm the results obtained in Australia. It became apparent that the preferred specifications for clarified juice going to fermentation varied from country to country. Each supplier of fermentation technology had criteria applying to clarified juice feedstock that would have a major impact on the standard of clarification required to achieve compliance with the criteria.
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Calcium oxalate (CaOX) is the most intractable scale component to remove in sugar mill evaporators by either mechanical or chemical means. The operating conditions of sugar mill evaporators should preferentially favour the formation of the thermodynamically stable calcium oxalate monohydrate (COM), yet analysis of scale deposit from different sugar factories have shown that calcium oxalate dihydrate (COD) is usually the predominant phase, and in some cases is the only hydrate formed. The effects of trans-aconitic, succinic and acetic acids, all of which are present in sugarcane juice, and ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid disodium salt (EDTA) on the growth of CaOX crystals have been examined by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), X-ray powder diffraction (XRD) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). trans-Aconitic acid, which constitutes two-thirds of the organic acid component in sugarcane juice, in the presence of sugar resulted in the formation of COD and COM in a 3:1 ratio. EDTA was the most effective acid to promote the formation of COD followed by trans-aconitic acid, then acetic acid and lastly succinic acid.
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The increase of buyer-driven supply chains, outsourcing and other forms of non-traditional employment has resulted in challenges for labour market regulation. One business model which has created substantial regulatory challenges is supply chains. The supply chain model involves retailers purchasing products from brand corporations who then outsource the manufacturing of the work to traders who contract with factories or outworkers who actually manufacture the clothing and textiles. This business model results in time and cost pressures being pushed down the supply chain which has resulted in sweatshops where workers systematically have their labour rights violated. Literally millions of workers work in dangerous workplaces where thousands are killed or permanently disabled every year. This thesis has analysed possible regulatory responses to provide workers a right to safety and health in supply chains which provide products for Australian retailers. This thesis will use a human rights standard to determine whether Australia is discharging its human rights obligations in its approach to combating domestic and foreign labour abuses. It is beyond this thesis to analyse Occupational Health and Safety (OHS) laws in every jurisdiction. Accordingly, this thesis will focus upon Australian domestic laws and laws in one of Australia’s major trading partners, the Peoples’ Republic of China (China). It is hypothesised that Australia is currently breaching its human rights obligations through failing to adequately regulate employees’ safety at work in Australian-based supply chains. To prove this hypothesis, this thesis will adopt a three- phase approach to analysing Australia’s regulatory responses. Phase 1 will identify the standard by which Australia’s regulatory approach to employees’ health and safety in supply chains can be judged. This phase will focus on analysing how workers’ rights to safety as a human right imposes a moral obligation on Australia to take reasonablely practicable steps regulate Australian-based supply chains. This will form a human rights standard against which Australia’s conduct can be judged. Phase 2 focuses upon the current regulatory environment. If existing regulatory vehicles adequately protect the health and safety of employees, then Australia will have discharged its obligations through simply maintaining the status quo. Australia currently regulates OHS through a combination of ‘hard law’ and ‘soft law’ regulatory vehicles. The first part of phase 2 analyses the effectiveness of traditional OHS laws in Australia and in China. The final part of phase 2 then analyses the effectiveness of the major soft law vehicle ‘Corporate Social Responsibility’ (CSR). The fact that employees are working in unsafe working conditions does not mean Australia is breaching its human rights obligations. Australia is only required to take reasonably practicable steps to ensure human rights are realized. Phase 3 identifies four regulatory vehicles to determine whether they would assist Australia in discharging its human rights obligations. Phase 3 then analyses whether Australia could unilaterally introduce supply chain regulation to regulate domestic and extraterritorial supply chains. Phase 3 also analyses three public international law regulatory vehicles. This chapter considers the ability of the United Nations Global Compact, the ILO’s Better Factory Project and a bilateral agreement to improve the detection and enforcement of workers’ right to safety and health.
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This paper aimed to assess the magnitude of sewage pollution in an urban lake in Dhaka, Bangladesh by using Quantitative PCR (qPCR) of sewage-associated Bacteroides HF183 markers. PCR was also used for the quantitative detection of ruminant wastewater-associated CF128 markers along with the enumeration of traditional fecal indicator bacteria, namely, enterococci. The number of enterococci in lake water samples ranged from 1.1 x 104 to 1.9 x 105 CFU/100 ml of water. From the 20 water samples tested, 14 (70%) and 7 (35%) were PCR positive for the HF183 and CF128 markers, respectively. The numbers of the HF183 and CF128 markers in lake water samples were 3.9 x 104 to 6.3 × 107 and 9.3 x 103 to 6.3 x 105 genomic units (GU)/100 ml of water, respectively. The high numbers of enterococci and the HF183 markers indicate sewage pollution and potential health risks to those who use the lake water for non-potable purposes such as bathing and washing clothes. This is the first study that investigated the presence of microbial source tracking (MST) markers in Dhaka, Bangladesh where diarrhoeal diseases is one of the major causes of childhood mortality. The molecular assay as used in this study can provide valuable information on the extent of sewage pollution, thus facilitating the development of robust strategies to minimise potential health risks.
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This article discusses the interaction between original and adaptation in the fashion system; the study also analyses, at a micro level, practices of adaptation adopted by consumers when making and re-making fashionable clothes. The article shows that the distinction between original and copy is historically determined as it grew out of the romantic notion of the authentic work of art. This article suggests that, in the impossibility to determine copyright in fashion, adaptation is a better descriptor of practices that transform garments; the concept of adaptation also abolishes trite notions of fashion as pastiche or bricolage, arguing for as a way to look at the many variations and re-contextualisations of garments historically and cross-culturally.
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There is a widely held view that architecture is very strongly and even primarily determined by the society and culture rather than geographical, technical, economic or cli-matic factors. This is especially evident in societies where rituals, customs and tradition play a significant role in the design of built forms. One such society was that of Feudal Japan under the rule of samurai warriors. The strictly controlled hierarchical society of Feudal Japan, isolated from the rest of the world for over 250 years, was able to develop the art and architecture borrowed from neighboring older cultures of China and Korea into what is now considered uniquely Japanese. One such architecture is the Sukiya style tea houses where the ritual of tea ceremony took place. This ritual was developed by the tea masters who were Zen monks or the merchants who belonged to the lowest class in the hierarchical feudal society. The Sukiya style developed from 14th to 16th century and became an architectural space that negated all the rules imposed on commoners by the samurai rulers. The tea culture had a major influence on Japanese architecture, the concept of space and aesthetics. It extended into the design of Japanese gardens, clothes, presentation of food, and their manners in day to day life. The focus of this paper is the Japanese ritual of tea ceremony, the architecture of the tea house it inspired, the society responsible for its creation and the culture that promoted its popularity and its continuation into the 21st century.
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Gait recognition approaches continue to struggle with challenges including view-invariance, low-resolution data, robustness to unconstrained environments, and fluctuating gait patterns due to subjects carrying goods or wearing different clothes. Although computationally expensive, model based techniques offer promise over appearance based techniques for these challenges as they gather gait features and interpret gait dynamics in skeleton form. In this paper, we propose a fast 3D ellipsoidal-based gait recognition algorithm using a 3D voxel model derived from multi-view silhouette images. This approach directly solves the limitations of view dependency and self-occlusion in existing ellipse fitting model-based approaches. Voxel models are segmented into four components (left and right legs, above and below the knee), and ellipsoids are fitted to each region using eigenvalue decomposition. Features derived from the ellipsoid parameters are modeled using a Fourier representation to retain the temporal dynamic pattern for classification. We demonstrate the proposed approach using the CMU MoBo database and show that an improvement of 15-20% can be achieved over a 2D ellipse fitting baseline.
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Programme: In these microlectures, developers, educators, critics, and artists give you the one piece of advice that they hold above all others. That one piece of advice: It's about the passion: Excerpt: Shades of madness - Creativity - Passion: There is something very important to observe about an industry that engages in these intense weekends. The monolithic Hollywood model is not viable, we need to scaffold the next gen of game designers, foster the passion, provide opportunity, CHANGE the model – not just dress it in new clothes
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This paper explores how the design of creative clusters as a key strategy in promoting the urban creative economy has played out in Shanghai. Creative Clusters in Europe and North America context have emerged ‘organically’. They developed spontaneously in those cities which went through a period of post-industrial decline. Creative Industries grew up in these cities as part of a new urban economy in the wake of old manufacturing industries. Artists and creative entrepreneurs moved into vacant warehouses and factories and began the trend of ‘creative clusters’. Such clusters facilitate the transfer of tacit knowledge through informal learning, the efficient sourcing of skills and information, competition, collaboration and learning, inter-cluster trading and networking. This new urban phenomenon was soon targeted by local economic development policy in charge of re-generating and re-structuralizing industrial activities in cities. Rising interest from real estate and local economic development has led to more and more planned creative clusters. In the aim of catching up with the world’s creative cities, Shanghai has planned over 100 creative clusters since 2005. Along with these officially designed creative clusters, there are organically emerged creative clusters that are much smaller in scale and much more informal in terms of the management. And they emerged originally in old residential areas just outside the CBD and expand to include French concession the most sort after residential area at the edge of CBD. More recently, office buildings within CBD are made available for creative usages. From fringe to CBD, these organic creative clusters provide crucial evidences for the design of creative clusters. This paper will be organized in 2 parts. In the first part, I will present a case study of 8 ‘official’ clusters (title granted by local govenrment) in Shanghai through which I am hoping to develop some key indicators of the success/failure of creative clusters as well as link them with their physical, social and operational efficacies. In the second part, a variety of ‘alternative’ clusters (organicly formed clusters most of which are not recongnized by the government) supplies with us the possibilities of rethinking the so-called ‘cluster development strategy’ in terms of what kind of spaces are appropriate for use by clusters? Who should manage them and in what format? And ultimately what are their relationship with the rest of the city should be defined?
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The paper presents the results of a study conducted into the relationship between dwelling characteristics and occupant activities with the respiratory health of resident women and children in Lao People’s Democratic Republic (PDR). Lao is one of the least developed countries in south-east Asia with poor life expectancies and mortality rates. The study, commissioned by the World Health Organisation, included questionnaires delivered to residents of 356 dwellings in nine districts in Lao PDR over a five month period (December 2005-April 2006), with the aim of identifying the association between respiratory health and indoor air pollution, in particular exposures related to indoor biomass burning. Adjusted odds ratios were calculated for each health outcome separately using binary logistic regression. After adjusting for age, a wide range of symptoms of respiratory illness in women and children aged 1-4 years were positively associated with a range of indoor exposures related to indoor cooking, including exposure to a fire and location of the cooking place. Among women, “dust always inside the house” and smoking were also identified as strong risk factors for respiratory illness. Other strong risk factors for children, after adjusting for age and gender, included dust and drying clothes inside. This analysis confirms the role of indoor air pollution in the burden of disease among women and children in Lao PDR.