Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Dispersion of Liposome with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Alpha-Lipoic Acid and Kinetin

The present study aimed to evaluate the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) and kinetin, as well as their effects on the hydration and viscoelastic skin properties. The photoprotection was determined in vitro (antioxidant activity) and in vivo on UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin. The hydration effects were performed with the application of the formulations under study on the forearm of human volunteers and skin conditions were analyzed before and after a single application and daily applications during 4 weeks in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture and viscoelastic properties. The raw material under study possessed free-radical scavenging activity and the formulation with it protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV damage. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the formulation under study enhanced stratum corneum skin moisture and also showed hydration effects in deeper layers of the skin. Thus, it can be concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing a dispersion of liposome with MAP, ALA and kinetin under study showed photoprotective effects in skin barrier function as well as pronounced hydration effects on human skin, which suggests that this dispersion has potential antiaging effects.

The Use of Nanotechnology in Cosmetic Formulations: The Influence of Vehicle in the Vitamin A Skin Penetration

Despite the efficacy of topical retinoic acid, skin reactions have limited its acceptance by patients. Other retinoids, like Retinyl Palmitate (RP), are considerably less irritating, but they are also less effective. In order to enhance the performance of retinoids, in this work RP has been added to cosmetic formulations such as nanoemulsions, which can provide better penetration of this active substance. Because the vehicle can directly influence the skin penetration and the effectiveness of RP, two skin care products containing 5000 UI RP have been developed and investigated, namely a nanoemulsifying system and a classic gel cream. In vitro penetration tests were conducted by using Franz diffusion cells and placing porcine ear skin and iso-propanol in the receptor compartment. The RP concentration in the skin layers was analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography, and a Zeta-Sizer system was employed for measurement of the the particle size distribution. The penetration tests revealed a large difference between the vehicles in terms of the RP concentrations in each skin layer. The classic gel cream furnished better RP penetration in both the stratum corneum and the epidermis without stratum corneum + dermis, as compared to the self-nanoemulsifying system. The two vehicles displayed the same particle size (between 100 and 200 nm). Better understanding of RP skin delivery using different vehicles has been acquired, and the importance of evaluating the efficacy of nanocosmetics. Results from the present study should also contribute to the assessment of commercial self-nanoemulsifying systems with potential application in the facile production of nanoemulsions.

Evaluation of sun protection factor of cosmetic formulations by a simple visual in vitro method mimicking the in vivo method

A new concept for in vitro visual evaluation of sun protection factor (SPF) of cosmetic formulations based on a supramolecular ultraviolet (UV) dosimeter was clearly demonstrated. The method closely parallels the method validated for in vivo evaluation and relies on the determination of the slightest perceptible bleaching of an iron-complex dye/nanocrystallinetitanium dioxide interface (UV dosimeter) in combination with an artificial skin substrate simulating the actual human skin in the presence and absence of a cosmetic formulation. The successful evaluation of SPF was ensured by the similarity of the erythema response of our dosimeter and human skin to UV light irradiation. A good linear correlation of in vitro and in vivo data up to SPF 40 confirmed the effectiveness of such a simple, cheap, and fast method. In short, here we unravel a convenient and accessible visual FPS evaluation method that can help improving the control on cosmetic products contributing to the reduction of skin cancer, one of the critical public health issues nowadays. (C) 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 101:726732, 2012

Carotenoids and polyphenols in nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals

The market for cosmeceuticals continues with significant annual growth, but today consumers are more aware of nutritional products that contribute to both skin health and disease prevention. In the last 10 years, pharmacists, chemists, nutritionists, and physicians have been working together to develop new nutritional applications to satisfy peoples needs and demands. As a recent result of convergence phenomenon between cosmetics and food industries, nutricosmetics is a blurry area unfamiliar to many consumers and sometimes even to foods and cosmetics experts. Characterized by oral supplementation of nutrients, nutricosmetics are also known as beauty pills,beauty from within, and even oral cosmetics. The major claim is the antiaging effect, reducing wrinkles by fighting free radicals generated by solar radiation. Among the ingredients used in nutricosmetics, antioxidants represent the most crucial. The best-known antioxidants are carotenoids (beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin) and polyphenols (anthocyanidins, catechins, flavonoids, tannins, and procyanidins). This study presents an overview about the concept of nutricosmetics and gives us information about the difference between nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. The article also discusses about carotenoids and polyphenols, two classes of ingredients often employed in such products.

Benefits of Combinations of Vitamin A, C and E Derivatives in the Stability of Cosmetic Formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.

Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy

Liposoluble vitamin C derivatives, such as tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (IPAA), are often used in dermocosmetic products due to their higher stability than vitamin C free form as well as its proposed effects in skin; however, there are no studies analyzing IPAA stability or its in vivo effects when present in dermocosmetic formulations. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate chemical stability and pre-clinical and clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing IPAA in skin hydration and microrelief. Chemical stability of the formulations added with 1% IPAA was evaluated by heat stress during 35 days by HPLC. For pre-clinical evaluation, experimental formulations were topically applied on hairless skin mice during 5 days and animal skins were analyzed by non-invasive biophysic techniques (water content of stratum corneum, TEWL, viscoelasticity, and microrelief) and by histopathological studies. For clinical efficacy tests, the formulations were topically applied to the forearm and face of human volunteers, and 3 h and 15 days after applications, the skins were evaluated by the same non-invasive techniques mentioned before. Results showed that formulations containing IPAA had medium stability and had pronounced moisturizing effects on stratum corneum and on viable epidermis. These formulations also improved skin microrelief especially in relation to skin smoothness and roughness. (C) 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Cosmetic Orbital Inferomedial Decompression: Quantifying the Risk of Diplopia Associated With Extraocular Muscle Dimensions

Purpose: To quantify the risk of new diplopia in inferomedial orbital decompression performed for cosmetic reasons. Methods: Retrospective analysis of 114 patients with Graves orbitopathy who underwent an inferomedial orbital decompression. No patient had diplopia in any of the gaze positions or optic neuropathy. A single coronal slice 9 mm posterior to the lateral orbital rim was employed to quantify the muscular index of the extraocular recti and of the superior complex. A control group of 56 patients imaged for other reasons were also measured. After surgery the oculomotor status of all patients who complained of diplopia and of 51 patients free of diplopia was measured with the prism and cover test in the primary and secondary gaze positions. Results: The rate of new-onset diplopia was 14.0% (16 patients). Eye deviations were confirmed in 14 patients. Of these, 10 had significant strabismus that warranted surgical or prism treatment. Most patients had esotropia associated with small vertical deviations. The size of the medial and inferior recti was significantly associated with the development of diplopia. The estimated odds for the appearance of diplopia in patients with muscle enlargement was 12.76 (medial rectus) and 5.21 (inferior rectus). Small-angle deviations were also detected in 27.4% of patients who did not experience diplopia. Conclusions: Medial and inferior recti enlargement is a strong predictor of new-onset diplopia. A large number of patients who do not report diplopia also present with small-angle deviations. (Ophthal Plast Reconstr Surg 2012;28:204-207)

Engineering Active Pharmaceutical Ingredients by Spray Drying: Effects on Physical Properties and In Vitro Dissolution

Active pharmaceutical ingredients have very strict quality requirements; minor changes in the physical and chemical properties of pharmaceuticals can adversely affect the dissolution rate and therefore the bioavailability of a given drug. Accordingly, the aim of the present study was to investigate the effect of spray drying on the physical and in vitro dissolution properties of four different active pharmaceutical ingredients, namely carbamazepine, indomethacin, piroxicam, and nifedipine. Each drug was dispersed in a solution of ethanol and water (70:30) and subjected to single-step spray drying using similar operational conditions. A complete characterization of the spray-dried drugs was performed via differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD), particle size distribution analysis, solubility analysis, and an in vitro dissolution study. The results from the thermal analysis and X-ray diffraction showed that, except for carbamazepine, no chemical modifications occurred as a result of spray drying. Moreover, the particle size distribution of all the spray-dried drugs significantly decreased. In addition, SEM images showed that most of the particles had an irregular shape. There was no significant improvement in the solubility of the spray-dried drugs compared with the unprocessed compounds; however, in general, the dissolution rates of the spray-dried drugs showed a remarkable improvement over their non-spray-dried counterparts. Therefore, the results from this study demonstrate that a single spray-drying step may lead to changes in the physical properties and dissolution characteristics of drugs and thus improve their therapeutic action.

Evaluation of alternative ingredients as fish meal replacers in on-growing diets for red porgy (Pagrus pagrus)

Programa de Doctorado: Acuicultura

Technological processes study for high value health ingredients and foods production

This PhD thesis describes set up of technological models for obtaining high health value foods and ingredients that preserve the final product characteristics as well as enrich with nutritional components. In particular, the main object of my research has been Virgin Olive Oil (VOO) and its important antioxidant compounds which differentiate it from all other vegetables oils. It is well known how the qualitative and quantitative presence of phenolic molecules extracted from olives during oil production is fundamental for its oxidative and nutritional quality. For this purpose, agronomic and technological conditions of its production have been investigated. It has also been examined how this fraction can be better preserved during storage. Moreover, its relation with VOO sensorial characteristics and its interaction with a protein in emulsion foods have also been studied. Finally, an experimental work was carried out to determine the antioxidative and heat resistance properties of a new antioxidant (EVS-OL) when used for high temperature frying such as is typically employed for the preparation of french fries. Results of the scientific research have been submitted for a publication and some data has already been published in national and international scientific journals.

[Cosmetic results after breast conserving carcinoma treatment in patients with intramammarian seromas]

INTRODUCTION: There were 373 patients irradiated after breast conserving carcinoma treatment. A planning computed tomography revealed in 97 of these patients seromas and tissue defects exceeding 2cm in diameter. The cosmetic results in those patients and the impact of seromas herein had to be evaluated. PATIENTS AND METHODS: Mean age was 59 years. A quadrant resection was performed in 17.5 percent of the patients, a segmental resection in 27.8 percent and a tumour excision in 54.6 percent. Radiation therapy was applied with the Linear accelerator and 6 MeV photons up to a total dose in the residual breast of 50 Gy followed by a boost dose to the former tumour bed of 10 Gy. A distinct evaluation and documentation of therapy related side effects and the resulting cosmesis was done in 51 patients. RESULTS: In all the examined seroma patients there were moderate acute skin reactions grade 1 to 3. As late effects in 82.3 percent scar indurations were noticed. At the skin 51 percent showed enhanced pigmentation, 68.6 percent atrophia and only 11 percent teleangiectasia. Subcutaneous fibrosis occurred in 56,9 percent of the patients, 78.4 percent of the women had breast asymmetries. In 41.2 percent there were a lymphedema subcutaneously, in 72.5 percent impaired sensibility. The overall cosmetic result documented with a 5 point score was "very good" (score 1) in 19.6 percent and "good" (score 2) in 33.3 percent, 37.3 percent were "satisfactory" (score 3) and 9.8 percent "bad" (score 4) respectively. No "very bad" results (score 5) were seen. CONCLUSIONS: The cosmetic results in the examined group of seroma and hematoma patients were inferior to those reported in the literature. We conclude that postoperative seroma and hematoma have an adverse effect on the resulting cosmesis and that their frequency and extent have to be reduced in future by the responsible surgeons.

Diet Roughage Ingredients for Newly Weaned Calves

Several commodity feeds that are high in fiber are available that may substitute for corn cobs in a complete starting ration. This study was designed to evaluate the use of soyhulls and sunflower meal as substitutes for corncobs as a roughage source for newly weaned calves. One-hundred-and-fifty calves from the ISU Rhodes Research Farm were weaned, weighed, sorted by sex, and stratified by weight to eight pens. Two pens of each sex were assigned to one of two diet treatments. Calves fed the corncob diet consumed two pounds more feed dry matter, gained 1.5 pounds more per day, and were more efficient the first 14 days on feed. The soyhull diet was quite fine in particle size, and some feed particle separation occurred in the bunk. Some compensatory performance may have occurred with the soyhull diet the second 14 days on feed, although no statistical differences existed. This suggests that palatability, feed presentation, and bunk characteristics are important considerations in selecting roughage sources for complete starting diets for newly weaned calves.