Fashion Notes ; Modebericht

F. H-K

Fashion Notes ; Modebericht

-o-

Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project

Teniendo en cuenta que no hay nada que se escape de la moda 1, y extendiendonos más allá de esta manida discusión sobre intersecciones formales, esta investigación propone la pasarela como un lugar real de mediación entre moda y arquitectura. Asumiendo esta condición, la pasarela encarna nuevos modos de producción apropiándose de su espacio y estructura, y convierténdose en una máquina capaz de generar múltiples y más bien infinitos significados. La moda es sin duda un proyecto creativo, que ha venido utilizando la pasarela como un marco para la reordenación de su narrativa visual, renovándose asi mismo como fenómeno social. Este proyecto de investigación plantea, que contrariamente las tipologías actuales de las pasarelas no nos facilitan la comprensión de una colección – que suele ser el objetivo principal. Presentan en cambio un entorno en el que se acoplan diferentes formatos visuales, -con varias capas-, conviéndolo en una compleja construcción y provocando nunerosas fricciones con el espacio-tiempo-acción durante el proceso de creación de otros territorios. Partiendo de la idea de la pasarela como un sistema, en el que sus numerosas variables pueden producir diversas combinaciones, esta investigación plantea la hipótesis por la cual un nuevo sistema de pasarela se estaría formando enteramente con capas de información. Este escenario nos conduciría a la inmersión final de la moda en los tejidos de la virtualidad. Si bien el debate sobre la relevancia de los desfiles de moda se ha vuelto más evidente hoy en día, esta investigación especula con la posibilidad del pensamiento arquitectónico y como este puede introducir metodologías de análisis en el marco de estos desfiles de moda, proponiendo una lectura de la pasarela como un sistema de procedimientos específicos inherente a los proyectos/procesos de la arquitectura. Este enfoque enlaza ambas prácticas en un territorio común donde el espacio, el diseño, el comportamiento, el movimiento, y los cuerpos son ordenados/organizados en la creación de estas nuevas posibilidades visuales, y donde las interacciones activan la generación de la novedad y los mensajes. PALABRAS CLAVES moda, sistema, virtual, información, arquitectura Considering that there is nothing left untouched by fashion2, and going beyond the already exhausted discussion about formal intersections, this research introduces the catwalk as the real arena of mediation between fashion and architecture. By assuming this condition, the catwalk embodies new modes of production that appropriates its space and turns it into a machine for generating multiple if not infinite meanings. Fashion, as a creative project, has utilized the catwalk as a frame for rearranging its visual narrative and renewing itself as social phenomena. This research disputes, however, that the current typologies of catwalks do not facilitate the understanding of the collection – as its primary goal - but, instead, present an environment composed of multi-layered visual formats, becoming a complex construct that collides space-time-action in the creation of other territories. Departing from the analysis of the catwalk as a system and how its many variables can produce diverse combinations, this research presents the hypothesis that a new system is being formed entirely built out of information. Such scenario indicates fashion´s final immersion into the fabrics of virtuality. While the discussion about the relevance of fashion shows has become more evident today, this research serves as an introductory speculation on how architectural thinking can introduce methodologies of analysis within the framework of the fashion shows, by proposing a reading of the catwalk as a system through specific procedures that are inherent to architectural projects. Such approach intertwines both practices into a common territory where space, design, behaviour, movement, and bodies are organized for the creation of visual possibilities, and where interactions are triggered in the making of novelty and messages. KEYWORDS fashion, system, virtual, information, architectural

Slow fashion and sustainability in Spain: How can local manufacturing improve sustainability and how do consumers respond?

"Slow Fashion" attempts to offset the demand for fast fashion and mass production (Fletcher, 2007). Consumers' response to sustainability-based practices is a limited discourse and studies for slow fashion concept are scarce. This study thus aims to enlighten the subject of how slow fashion concept could improve local economies and how Spanish consumers respond to such initiatives. This paper is based on an exploratory qualitative research for which focus group interviews including three group discussions with Spanish consumers were held. The data was examined by constant comparison analysis to present consumer insights. Moreover, a case study was conducted with a Spanish apparel brand. Saint Brissant was chosen since it manufactures in Spain to (i) ensure its products? high quality and (ii) to empower Spanish economy. This paper provides empirical insights. Even though local manufacturing was perceived to have a higher quality, Spanish consumers? behavioural intentions of using local brands were not high.Self-interest, mainly price and design, was recorded as the most influential purchase criteria. Furthermore, Saint Brissant case demonstrated that local manufacturing could boost local economies by creating workforce. However, governmental subsidies should be rearranged and consumers? perceptions should be improved to support local manufacturers in Spain.

Fashion in Actions on Social Media – Spanish SME Fashion Brands Case Studies

Fashion is one of the most vibrant sectors in Europe and important contributors to the European Union (EU) economy. In particular, Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) play a major part in European fashion industry (EU 2012). Just like fashion, where people¿s style has inherently meant to be shared as it is foremost a representation of one¿s self-image, social media allow the reflection of ones' personality and emotions. Although fashion practitioners have embraced social media in their marketing activities, it is still relatively few known at an academic level about the specificities of fashion industry when approaching social media marketing (SMM) strategies. This study sets out to explore fashion companies' SMM strategy and its activities. From an exploratory approach, we present case studies of two Spanish SME fashion companies, anonymously named hereafter as Company A and Company B, to deepen our understanding on how fashion brands implement their SMM strategy. Company A offers high-end fashion products while Company B produces medium fashion products. We analyzed the case studies using qualitative (interviews to companies' executives) and a mix of qualitative and quantitative (content analysis of companies' social media platform) methods. Public posts data of both companies' Facebook brand pages were used to perform the content analysis. Our findings through case studies of the two companies reveal that branding-oriented strategic objectives are the main drivers of their SMM implementations. There are significant differences between both companies. The main strategic action employed by Company A is engaging customers to participate into brand's offline social gathering events by inviting them through social media platform, while Company B focuses its effort on posting product promotion related contents and engaging influencers such as fashion bloggers. Our results are expected to serve as a basis of further investigations on how SMM strategy and strategic actions implemented by fashion brands may influence marketing outcomes.

Artefactos energéticos : de Fuller a Piñero (1961-1972) = Energetic artefacts : from Fuller to Piñero (1961-1972)

La obra de Emilio Pérez Piñero que se desarrolla entre los años 1961 y 1972 año en el que muere en un accidente de tráfico volviendo de Figueras, se centra principalmente en artefactos desplegables y desmontables, ejecutando prototipos que en el presente trabajo se han dividido en dos grupos; la cúpula reticular y la infraestructura. No pudo por tanto acudir al Congreso de 1972 de la UIA a recoger el premio Auguste Perret a la innovación tecnológica, que en años anteriores habían recibido Félix Candela, Jean Prouvé, Hans Scharoun o Frei Otto, y que en aquella ocasión tuvo que recoger su viuda. Parámetros como el de la movilidad, indeterminación, intercambiabilidad, obsolescencia y otros que se analizan en el presente trabajo, aparecen a lo largo de toda su obra ya que muchos de sus artefactos están ubicados en no-lugares y tienen un carácter itinerante y por tanto se hace indispensable su rápido montaje y desmontaje, que unas veces se resuelve mediante la desmontabilidad y otras con la plegabilidad de éstos. Aunque pueda parecer Piñero una figura autárquica, lo cierto es que durante la década donde concentra su trabajo se produce una explosión en torno a al arquetipo que será denominado de forma genérica `artefacto´, ligado conceptualmente a los parámetros que aquí se definen. Entendemos artefacto como objeto material realizado por una o varias personas para cumplir una función, es sinónimo de máquina y aparato y deriva de las palabras latinas ars o artis (técnica) y facto (hecho), para designar a los objetos cuya fabricación requiere alguna destreza. El término latino `ars´ engloba a las técnicas y a las artes, lo que no ocurre con el término castellano arte que deriva de él. Los movimientos utópicos que comparte la década con Piñero, utilizan el arquetipo infraestructural, ligero y high tech, para a través de una arquitectura más ligada a la ciencia ficción, realizar una crítica al Movimiento Moderno institucionalizado, todos ellos comparten cierta obsesión por la movilidad, ligada ésta a la idea de espacio flexible, dinámico, nómada. Este concepto de neo-nomadismo, que representa un habitar dinámico, aglutina las nuevas formas de vivir donde la movilidad social y geográfica son habituales. El nomadismo, por otra parte se entiende como sinónimo de democracia y libertad. La arquitectura pasa de ser pesada, estática, permanente a ser un elemento dinámico en continuo movimiento. A veces con connotaciones biológicas se asimilan los artefactos a organismos vivos y les confieren dichas propiedades de crecimiento y autonomía energética, acumulándose en torno a megaestructuras, donde quedan `enchufados´. En este intento de dotar movilidad a lo inmueble, se buscan estructuras vivas y modificables que crecen en una asimilación de las leyes naturales utilizando los parámetros de metamorfosis, simbiosis y cambio. Estos movimientos de vanguardia tienen también ciertas connotaciones políticas y sociales basadas en la libertad y la movilidad y reniegan del consumismo institucionalizado, de la arquitectura como instrumento de consumo, como objeto de usar en la cultura de masas. El carácter político de la autogestión, de la customización como parámetro proyectual, de la autosuficiencia energética, que anticipa la llegada de la crisis energética del año 1973. Objeto de este trabajo será relacionar los conceptos que aparecen fuertemente en el entorno de la década de los años sesenta del siglo XX, en el trabajo de Emilio Pérez Piñero. Parámetros encontrados como conceptos en los grupos de vanguardia y utopía a su vez fuertemente influenciados por las figuras del ingeniero Richard Buckminster Fuller y del arquitecto Konrad Wachsmann. Se analizará que posible influencia tiene la obra de Fuller, principalmente el prototipo denominado cúpula reticular, en la obra de Pérez Piñero y sus coetáneos analizando sus pensamientos teóricos en torno a parámetros como la energía, principalmente en las teorías relativas a Synergetics. El término inventado por Richard B. Fuller es una contracción de otro más largo que en inglés agrupa tres palabras; synergetic-energetic geometry. La definición de sinergia es la cooperación, es decir es el resultado de la acción conjunta de dos o más causas, pero con un efecto superior a la suma de estas causas. El segundo término, energetics geometry, que traducido sería geometría energética hace referencia en primer lugar a la geometría; ya que desarrolla el sistema de referencia que utiliza la naturaleza para construir sus sistemas y en segundo lugar a la energía; ya que además debe ser el sistema que establezca las relaciones más económicas utilizando el mínimo de energía. Por otro lado se analiza la repercusión del prototipo denominado Infraestructura, término acuñado por Yona Friedman y basado estructuralmente y conceptualmente en los desarrollos sobre grandes estructuras de Konrad Wachsmann. El arquitecto alemán divulga su conocimiento en seminarios impartidos por todo el mundo como el que imparte en Tokio y se denomina Wachsmann´s Seminar donde participan algunos de los componentes del grupo Metabolista que sorprenderán al mundo con sus realizaciones en la exposición de Osaka de 1970. El intervalo temporal entre 1961 hasta 1972 hace referencia a la horquilla donde Pérez Piñero realiza su obra arquitectónica, que comienza en 1961 cuando gana el concurso convocado en Londres por la UIA (Unión Internacional de Arquitectos) con el proyecto conocido como Teatro Ambulante, hasta 1972 que es cuando fallece volviendo de Figueras donde está realizando dos encargos de Salvador Dalí; la cubrición del escenario del futuro Teatro-Museo Salvador Dalí y la Vidriera Hipercúbica que debía cerrar la boca de tal escenario. Bajo el título de `Artefactos energéticos. De Fuller a Piñero (1961-1972)´, se presenta esta Tesis doctoral, que tiene la intención de vincular la obra de Emilio Pérez Piñero con la de las neo vanguardias producidas por una serie de arquitectos que operan en el ámbito internacional. Estas vinculaciones se producen de una forma general, donde a través de una serie de estrategias según la metodología que posteriormente se describe se buscan relaciones de la obra del autor español con algunos de los movimientos más significativos que aparecen en dicha década y de manera específica estableciendo relaciones con las obras y pensamientos de los autores que pertenecen a estos movimientos y donde estas relaciones se hacen más evidentes. El objeto del presente trabajo es analizar y explicar la obra del arquitecto Emilio Pérez Piñero, que espacialmente se localiza en el territorio español, desde el punto de vista de estos movimientos para posteriormente poder determinar si existen puntos en común y si el arquitecto español no solo comparte la década temporalmente sino también conceptualmente y por tanto utiliza el ideario que utilizan sus coetáneos que forman parte de las neovanguardias de los años sesenta de siglo XX. ABSTRACT ABSTRACT The Work of Emilio Perez Piñero was developed between the years 1961 and 1972 when he died in a car accident coming back from Figueres, where he was building a geodesic dome to close the building that enclose the Dali’s museum. All his Work is mainly centered in artifact that could be collapsible and removable, taking the two prototypes that are described in this work as a recurrent element in all his creation. These are the reticular dome and the infrastructure that are very influenced by the work from Richard B. Fuller and Konrad Wachsmann. Emilio Pérez Piñero could not receive the Auguste Perret Prize in 1972 awarded by the UIA that years before have received architects as Felix Candela, Jean Prouvé, Hans Scharoun or Frei Otto, and this time Pérez Piñero´s wife will accept it because of his death. Parameters like mobility, changeability, expendability, indetermination and others appear currently in his Work. All the inventions that Piñero had been patented and all of the artifacts that he created are usually located in no-places, because they do have a shifting identity. This kind of building has to be quickly set on site, and this problem has to be solved in term of foldability or demounting. In the decade where his work focuses, an explosion has occurred around this archetype to be generally called artifact that is usually linked to mobility. We understand artifact as a material object made by one or more people to work in a particular way. It is sometimes equated with the terms machinery and apparatus and it is derived from the Latin word `ars´ or `artis´, what means techniques and `facto´ (fact). And we use this term to refer to objects whose manufacture requires the same skill, in fact the Latin word `ars´ covers the techniques and arts, which does not occur with the Castillan term `arte´ that derives from it and means only art. The term neo-nomadic is a relatively new name used for a dynamic life, commonly referred to new forms of life where social and geographical mobility are common. On the other hand nomadic could be understood as a synonymous for democracy and freedom. The architecture is not going to be hard and static anymore but a dynamic element in the move. The Neo-avant-garde movement that shares the decade with Piñero uses this infrastructural archetype, which is light and high-tech, to criticize the institutionalized Modern Movement through architecture linked to science fiction. They all share an obsession with mobility, a concept that is connected to the terms `dynamic´, `nomadic´, `flexibile´, etc. Sometimes, with biological connotations, the utopian assimilate the artifacts to living organisms and give them these properties of growth and energy autonomy, and they apparently grow around megastructures where they are plugged. In this attempt to provide mobility to the inertness, living structures and possibility of change are sought in order to make them grow like a living organism and to assimilate the natural laws of growth. According to a definition from architecture provided by Fernández- Galiano who calls it `exosomatic artifact´, he understand architecture as artifact of the human environment that regulates natural energy flows and channels the energy stored in fuels for the benefit of living beings that inhabit. It is also true that during the sixties a new environmental awareness in public opinion is formed and that is due to the exploitation and disproportionate use of energy resources, acceleration of technological processes and mass consumption. Consequently a new concept is born: energy autonomy, it is very close to rational use of natural energy. Such a concept will be culturally assimilated with the requirement of independence not only in the management but also in the building construction until we arrive at energy autonomy. The individuals become energy consumer, which in turn can enter the energy produced in the system to `life in an eco-mode way´. The objectives of this research are analyzing all of these parameters and concepts that are coming into view in the surrounding of the decade and relate them with the Work of Pérez Piñero. Terms strongly present in the avant-garde movements around the decade, a young architect’s generation strongly influenced by Richard B. Fuller and Konrad Wachsmann. However, it will be analyzed how important the influence of Buckminster Fuller's Work was and his theoretical text about energy on the Work of Pérez Piñero and his fellows of the decade. The term Synergetic was invented by Fuller and came from the words synergy and energetic geometry. Synergy is the cooperation or interaction of two or more agents to produce a greater effect than the sum of their separate effects. Energetic geometry is related to the geometries that the Nature is using to build their construction but always using low energy consumption. On the other hand, the influences from Wachsmann around the prototype called Infrastructure have been analyzed. The German architect has developed knowledge around huge structures that he has spread all around the world through seminars that he has been conducted. One of these was the Wachsmann´s seminar in Tokyo, where same of the members of the Metabolist group were taking part of. Later these young architects will surprise the world with his artifacts at the World Exposition in Osaka in 1970. Between 1961 and 1972 Pérez Piñero produced his architectural work. It began in 1961 when he received the first prize with his project Mobile Theatre in the competition organized by the UIA in London. In 1972 the Auguste Perret Prize was granted by the UIA too. He could not accept it because he died before in a car accident when he was coming from Figueres, when he was designing two projects for Dali. With the title `Energetic Artifacts. From Fuller to Piñero (1961- 1972)´, this thesis relates the Work of Emilio Pérez Piñero with the neo avant-garde made by a young architects’ generation who is sharing the time with him. Several strategies have been used to formed relationships between them. They are described in the present work to set up a method that allows us to relate the work and ideas of the architects of the neo avant-garde with the ones from Piñero. This work is intended to analyze and explained the work of Pérez Piñero from the point of view of the international architects’ generation who is operating at the same time and finally to determinate if Piñero is not sharing the time with them but the concepts, ideas and architectural parameters.

Celebração midiática e cultura: o "olhar ilustrado" da Folha de S. Paulo sobre a São Paulo Fashion Week 2006

Entender o campo da moda como um universo que reflete atitudes e sentimentos da vida social do homem-comum se constitui a base desta pesquisa. Para compreender melhor de que forma a moda aparece assim configurada, faz-se necessário desvendar os adornos com os quais a mídia da cultura de massa trabalha neste campo. Com a proposta de enxergar como os valores transformadores do campo estão atuantes na mídia, a partir de uma leitura interpretativa, optamos por analisar o enfoque dado pelo caderno Ilustrada da Folha de S. Paulo ao maior evento de moda do Brasil a São Paulo Fashion Week, na sua edição de julho de 2006. Desta forma, apresentamos os aspectos da cultura de massa que estão diretamente relacionados ao campo da moda e de que maneira estes aspectos foram enquadrados nos textos da Folha, no processo de celebração do evento.(AU)

Celebração midiática e cultura: o "olhar ilustrado" da Folha de S. Paulo sobre a São Paulo Fashion Week 2006

Entender o campo da moda como um universo que reflete atitudes e sentimentos da vida social do homem-comum se constitui a base desta pesquisa. Para compreender melhor de que forma a moda aparece assim configurada, faz-se necessário desvendar os adornos com os quais a mídia da cultura de massa trabalha neste campo. Com a proposta de enxergar como os valores transformadores do campo estão atuantes na mídia, a partir de uma leitura interpretativa, optamos por analisar o enfoque dado pelo caderno Ilustrada da Folha de S. Paulo ao maior evento de moda do Brasil a São Paulo Fashion Week, na sua edição de julho de 2006. Desta forma, apresentamos os aspectos da cultura de massa que estão diretamente relacionados ao campo da moda e de que maneira estes aspectos foram enquadrados nos textos da Folha, no processo de celebração do evento.(AU)

KARP-1 is induced by DNA damage in a p53- and ataxia telangiectasia mutated-dependent fashion

The KARP-1 (Ku86 Autoantigen Related Protein-1) gene, which is expressed from the human Ku86 autoantigen locus, appears to play a role in mammalian DNA double-strand break repair as a regulator of the DNA-dependent protein kinase complex. Here we demonstrate that KARP-1 gene expression is significantly up-regulated following exposure of cells to DNA damage. KARP-1 mRNA induction was completely dependent on the ataxia telangiectasia and p53 gene products, consistent with the presence of a p53 binding site within the second intron of the KARP-1 locus. These observations link ataxia telangiectasia, p53, and KARP-1 in a common pathway.

Host factor I, Hfq, binds to Escherichia coli ompA mRNA in a growth rate-dependent fashion and regulates its stability

The stability of the ompA mRNA depends on the bacterial growth rate. The 5′ untranslated region is the stability determinant of this transcript and the target of the endoribonuclease, RNase E, the key player of mRNA degradation. An RNA-binding protein with affinity for the 5′ untranslated region ompA was purified and identified as Hfq, a host factor initially recognized for its function in phage Qβ replication. The ompA RNA-binding activity parallels the amount of Hfq, which is elevated in bacteria cultured at slow growth rate, a condition leading to facilitated degradation of the ompA mRNA. In hfq mutant cells with a deficient Hfq gene product, the RNA-binding activity is missing, and analysis of the ompA mRNA showed that the growth-rate dependence of degradation is lost. Furthermore, the half-life of the ompA mRNA is prolonged in the mutant cells, irrespective of growth rate. Hfq has no affinity for the lpp transcript whose degradation, like that of bulk mRNA, is not affected by bacterial growth rate. Compatible with our results, we found that the intracellular concentration of RNase E and its associated degradosome components is independent of bacterial growth rate. Thus our results suggest a regulatory role for Hfq that specifically facilitates the ompA mRNA degradation in a growth rate-dependent manner.

Protective anti-tumor immunity induced by vaccination with recombinant adenoviruses encoding multiple tumor-associated cytotoxic T lymphocyte epitopes in a string-of-beads fashion

Vaccines harboring genes that encode functional oncoproteins are intrinsically hazardous, as their application may lead to introduction of these genes into normal cells and thereby to tumorigenesis. On the other hand, oncoproteins are especially attractive targets for immunotherapy of cancer, as their expression is generally required for tumor growth, making the arisal of tumor variants lacking these antigens unlikely. Using murine tumor models, we investigated the efficacy of polyepitope recombinant adenovirus (rAd) vaccines, which encode only the immunogenic T cell epitopes derived from several oncogenes, for the induction of protective anti-tumor immunity. We chose to employ rAd, as these are safe vectors that do not induce the side effects associated with, for example, vaccinia virus vaccines. A single polyepitope rAd was shown to give rise to presentation of both H-2 and human leukocyte antigen-restricted cytotoxic T lymphocyte (CTL) epitopes. Moreover, vaccination with a rAd encoding H-2-restricted CTL epitopes, derived from human adenovirus type 5 early region 1 and human papilloma virus type 16-induced tumors, elicited strong tumor-reactive CTL and protected the vaccinated animals against an otherwise lethal challenge with either of these tumors. The protection induced was superior compared with that obtained by vaccination with irradiated tumor cells. Thus, vaccination with polyepitope rAd is a powerful approach for the induction of protective anti-tumor immunity that allows simultaneous immunization against multiple tumor-associated T cell epitopes, restricted by various major histocompatibility complex haplotypes.

The Perks of Playing Dress-Up: Psychological Impressions of Fashion and Feminism.

Research on the psychological impact of women's fashion has focused on fashion's negative influence over how women think and feel about themselves. Several studies have examined the relationship between fashion and women's self-appraisals (Martin & Gentry, 1997; Pinhas, Toner, Ali, Garfinkel, & Stuckless, 1999; Tiggemann, Polivy, & Hargreaves, 2009), although few investigations have explored the range of viewpoints that arise when women interact with their own personal style or with other forms of fashion media. This paper presents a narrative review of what has been written about fashion in clinical research. I briefly discuss why this is an important topic and why fashion has psychological meaning. Cognitive behavioral therapy (CBT) is considered in the exploration of fashion's impact on conjuring unproductive and productive schemas (Beck, 1976; Wright, Basco, & Thase, 2006). This discussion includes a presentation of interviews with female consultants, hypothetical examples, my own accounts, and feminist perspectives. While emphasizing the potential biases of women's interactions with fashion, I discuss matters of gender performance and reflections on clinical work. The purpose of this article is to present a pro-social defense of fashion. I do this by acquiring personal chronicles, applying those findings to the current body of research, and adding to the continued investigation of why women's fashion is still important in a postfeminist world.