Finnish buyers’ perceptions of Indian textile and clothing suppliers: Country of origin in focus

Choosing the right supplier is crucial for long-term business prospects and profitability. Thus organizational buyers are naturally very interested in how they can select the right supplier for their needs. Likewise, suppliers are interested in knowing how their customers make purchasing decisions in order to effectively sell and market to them. From the point of view of the textile and clothing (T&C) industry, regulatory changes and increasing low-cost and globalization pressures have led to the rise of low-cost production locations India and China as the world’s largest T&C producers. This thesis will examine T&C trade between Finland and India specifically in the context of non-industrial T&C products. Its main research problem asks: what perceptions do Finnish T&C industry buyers hold of India and Indian suppliers? B2B buyers use various supplier selection models and criteria in making their purchase decisions. A significant amount of research has been done into supplier selection practices, and in the context of international trade, country of origin (COO) perceptions specifically have garnered much attention. This thesis uses a mixed methods approach (online questionnaire and in-depth interviews) to evaluate Finnish T&C buyers’ supplier selection criteria, COO perceptions of India and experiences of Indian suppliers. It was found that the most important supplier selection criteria used by Finnish T&C buyers are quality, reliability and cost. COO perceptions were not found to be influential in purchasing process. Indian T&C suppliers’ strengths were found to be low cost, flexibility and a history of traditional T&C expertise. Their weaknesses include product quality and unreliable delivery times. Overall, the main challenges that need to be overcome by Indian T&C companies are logistical difficulties and the cost vs. quality trade-off. Despite positive perceptions of India for cost, the overall value offered by Indian T&C products was perceived to be low due to poor quality. Unreliable delivery time experiences also affected buyer’s reliability perceptions of Indian suppliers. The main limiting factors of this thesis relate to the small sample size used in the research. This limits the generalizability of results and the ability to evaluate the reliability and validity of some of the research instruments.

Perceptions of green branding and identity building amongst small Finnish textile producers

The textile industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. The amount of air and water pollution it causes puts a burden on the environment. There are companies who have taken the environmental and social aspects into account in the their production and chosen to operate in a green manner. This thesis studies how the phenomenon of green branding is seen from the perspectives of small Finnish textile companies. The theory used in this thesis has to do with green branding and identity building. The theory is used to analyze the results of the empirical findings. The main research question that the thesis aims to answer is how green branding is perceived within the Finnish textile industry. In order to answer the main research question, empirical data was collected from five relevant companies within the Finnish textile industry. The companies interviewed for the study were WST, Saana ja Olli, RCM, R-collection and Tiensivu. The study was conducted as a multiple case based study where multiple experts from green companies were interviewed. The experts were all owners or employees of companies that have a so-called green brand identity. The data was collected through semi-structured interviews, where the relevant experts from each company were interviewed either by themselves, in pairs or in groups. The data that was collected for this study was primary data, and the results of the study are mainly based on the experiences and opinions of the experts interviewed. The data collected does not cover the entire green textile industry within Finland, but study does however give a fairly comprehensive view of the phenomenon, as the textile industry in Finland is quite concise. The general findings of the study show that all experts from the companies interviewed agreed that a green brand identity does benefit their company in one way or the other. The findings also show contradictions with the older theory (eg. Charter et al. 1999, Pickett et al. 1995), and perhaps give a more modern view of the thoughts within the industry.

Industries et industriels français du textile face au défi international 1871-1914

Fortement liées à l’international, les industries françaises du textile ont connu une évolution erratique entre 1871 et 1914. L’adoption de tarifs hautement protectionnistes en 1892 favorise les industriels du coton au détriment de ceux travaillant la laine et la soie. Ces derniers exportent leurs marchandises luxueuses sur des marchés ouverts à la concurrence. Ils profitent peu des marchés coloniaux, moins intéressés par leurs produits. Des politiques hardies d’importation directe de la matière première permettent, notamment à Roubaix, de pallier à certains désavantages. Si plusieurs industriels incitent le gouvernement à réformer ses services commerciaux à l’étranger et à y adjoindre des spécialistes, ils retiennent peu les recommandations des experts concernant l’adoption des moyens propres à favoriser les exportations. Plusieurs carences du commerce français ont été soulignées précocement mais il a été difficile de rapidement appliquer des solutions. Dans un contexte marqué par une concurrence accrue sur les marchés extérieurs, la France s’en tire mieux qu’on a pu le penser. La flexibilité de l’appareil productif français permet d’obtenir de nombreuses commandes dans les créneaux du luxe et du demi-luxe. Son niveau d’intégration, moins élevé que dans d’autres pays, se révèle ainsi parfois être un avantage. Toutefois, l’industrie textile est handicapée par la grande difficulté des patrons à s’associer de manière stable à l’extérieur du clan familial. L’entente se réalise cependant plus aisément et avantageusement pour ceux qui ont une production spécialisée, rare ou brevetée. Les performances et l’organisation des entreprises textiles françaises à l’étranger montrent que le marché national stimulait peu les producteurs à adopter les meilleures conditions de production possibles. Ces sociétés et celles obtenant des succès à l’exportation sont souvent les plus dynamiques et les plus rentables.

Price, profitability and employment in the handloom industry in kerala

The present study is on the nature, problems and prospects of the handloom industry in Kerala. The problems of the industry are mostly in the nature of low earnings of the workers, underutilisation of the existing capacity and low profit in its various sectors. The majority of the handloom co-operative societies are either dormant or facing liquidation. The income and employment of weavers are so pitiably low that they are living in utter poverty and starvation. Frequent price fluctuations of yarns, dyes and chemicals increase the cost of production and reduce the profitability. Consequently handloom fabrics are not able to compete with mill cloths and powerloom products. Accumulating the unsold stocks in the godowns of co-operative societies and with master weavers has become the practice of the day. Spinning mills in Kerala are producing only lower counts of yarns. S, handloom industry has to depend on textile mills in Tamil Nadu for higher counts of yarn. They create artificial scarcity and increase the prices exflorbitantly. Wage rates prevailing in Kerala are higher than those in Tamil Hadu. So rich master weavers are migrating to Tamil.Nadu and exporting the fabrics. under the label 'Kera1a Handlooms'. Governmental efforts to tackle the crisis by way of rebates and subsidies are found to be futile.

Perceptions of the impacts of genetically modified cotton varieties: a case study of the cotton industry in Gujarat, India

The paper reports the findings of a study designed to consider the impact of the adoption of Bt cotton on markets, businesses, and institutional arrangements in India. Given that evidence to date suggests that widespread adoption of Bt cotton by farmers is likely to increase production, this study aims to assess possible implications for markets (access to inputs, prices of inputs and outputs, etc.) and local industries and to identify potential winners and losers. The results suggest that there are impacts on the cotton industry following from the release of Bt hybrids, and so far the impacts are most noticeable "upstream" (i.e., the input suppliers), where companies are rapidly moving away from the sale of bollworm insecticide and attempting to sell Bt seeds. Seed companies are looking for partnerships with Monsanto, the owner of the Bt gene. One reason that companies are keen to move away from insecticide is so they can avoid the need for credit supply to their customers. Seed purchase is not normally through credit, whereas insecticide purchase is. Issues for companies "downstream" (gins, textile manufacturers) relate more to the better quality of Bt cotton and the need for adequate segregation of Bt and non-Bt cotton.

Fatigue and workability in Brazilian textile companies in different corporate social responsibility score groups

The aim of this study was to evaluate working conditions in the textile industry for different stages of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) development, and workers` perception of fatigue and workability. A cross-sectional study was undertaken with 126 workers in the production areas of five Brazilian textile plants. The corporate executive officers and managers of each company provided their personal evaluations of CSR. Companies were divided into 2 groups (higher and lower) of CSR scores. Workers completed questionnaires on fatigue, workability and working conditions. Ergonomic job analysis showed similar results for working conditions, independent of their CSR score. Multivariate analysis models were developed for fatigue and workability, indicating that they are both associated to factors related to working conditions and individual workers` characteristics and life styles. Work organization, (what, how, when, where and for how long the work is done), is also an associated factor for fatigue. This study suggests that workers` opinions should be taken into greater consideration when companies develop their CSR programs, in particular for those relating to working conditions. Relevance to industry: This paper underlines the importance of considering working conditions and workers` opinions of them, work organization and individual workers` characteristics and life styles in order to restore or to maintain workability and to reduce fatigue, independently of how developed a company may be in the field of Corporate Social Responsibility. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Sistemas de controle de vendas no setor têxtil: um estudo exploratório

Esta dissertação estuda os sistemas de controle de vendas praticados pela indústria têxtil brasileira diante das mudanças ambientais ocorridas nas últimas duas décadas. O pressuposto básico para a utilização de sistemas de controle para a equipe de vendas é que através deles é possível dirigir e influenciar as atitudes e os comportamentos dos empregados para conseguir atingir seus objetivos, havendo uma estreita relação entre a forma como a gerência comercial monitora, dirige, avalia e recompensa as atividades dos seus vendedores e a efetividade da área comercial, sendo diferenciais decisivos para atender a pressão por competitividade e as exigências do mercado quanto ao posicionamento da equipe comercial frente ao novo cenário de negócios. Da revisão teórica foram levantados os oito principais modelos de sistemas de controle e aspectos importantes que devem ser considerados para a composição do sistema de cada empresa. A pesquisa foi conduzida entre os responsáveis por equipes de vendas no segmento têxtil nos elos onde vendas industriais são realizadas. Empregaram-se técnicas empíricas para o levantamento das freqüências de incidência dos aspectos estudados e foi possível constatar que os elos de fibras e filamentos, fiação, tecelagem, malharia e beneficiamento do segmento têxtil possuem sistemas de controle pertinentes com as características de venda industrial. Os controles formais estão ligados a resultados e os controles informais estão relacionados com o acompanhamento das atividades e capacidades do vendedor. Adicionalmente buscou-se captar a percepção dos responsáveis por equipes comerciais sobre sua efetividade nos aspectos de volume de vendas, lucratividade, participação de mercado e também satisfação do cliente.

Extração do corante reactive blue 19 utilizando tensoativo não iônico

The generation of effluent from the finishing process in textile industry is a serious environmental problem and turned into an object of study in several scientific papers. Contamination with dyes and the presences of substances that are toxic to the environment characterize this difficult treatment effluent. Several processes have already been evaluated to remove and even degrade such pollutants are examples: coagulation-flocculation, biological treatment and advanced oxidative processes, but not yet sufficient to enable the recovery of dye or at least of the recovery agent. An alternative to this problem is the cloud point extraction that involves the application of nonionic surfactants at temperatures above the cloud point, making the water a weak solvent to the surfactant, providing the agglomeration of those molecules around the dyes molecules by affinity with the organic phase. After that, the formation of two phases occurred: the diluted one, poor in dye and surfactant, and the other one, coacervate, with higher concentrations of dye and surfactants than the other one. The later use of the coacervate as a dye and surfactant recycle shows the technical and economic viability of this process. In this paper, the cloud point extraction is used to remove the dye Reactive Blue from the water, using nonionic surfactant nonyl phenol with 9,5 etoxilations. The aim is to solubilize the dye molecules in surfactant, varying the concentration and temperature to study its effects. Evaluating the dye concentration in dilute phase after extraction, it is possible to analyze thermodynamic variables, build Langmuir isotherms, determine the behavior of the coacervate volume for a surfactant concentration and temperature, the distribution coefficient and the dye removal efficiency. The concentration of surfactant proved itself to be crucial to the success of the treatment. The results of removal efficiency reached values of 91,38%, 90,69%, 89,58%, 87,22% and 84,18% to temperatures of 65,0, 67,5, 70,0, 72,5 and 75,0°C, respectively, showing that the cloud point extraction is an efficient alternative for the treatment of wastewater containing Reactive Blue

Investigation on Surface Finishing of Components Ground with Lapping Kinematics: Lapgrinding Process

Over the last three decades, researchers have responded to the demands of industry to manufacture mechanical components with geometrical tolerance, dimensional tolerance, and surface finishing in nanometer levels. The new lapgrinding process developed in Brazil utilizes lapping kinematics and a flat grinding wheel dressed with a single-point diamond dresser in agreement with overlap factor (U(d)) theory. In the present work, the influences of different U(d) values on dressing (U(d) = 1, 3 e 5) and grain size of the grinding wheel made of silicon carbide (SiC = 800, 600 e 300 mesh) are analyzed on surface finishing of stainless steel AISI 420 flat workpieces submitted to the lapgrinding process. The best results, obtained after 10 minutes of machining, were: average surface roughness (Ra) 1.92 nm; 1.19 mu m flatness deviation of 25.4 mm diameter workpieces and mirrored surface finishing. Given the surface quality achieved, the lapgrinding process can be included among the ultra-precision finishing processes and, depending on the application, the steps of lapping followed by polishing can be replaced by the proposed abrasive process.

Composite materials obtained from textile fiber residue

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Mutagenic and carcinogenic potential of a textile azo dye processing plant effluent that impacts a drinking water source

Recently a textile azo dye processing plant effluent was identified as one of the sources of mutagenic activity detected in the Cristais River, a drinking water source in Brazil [G.A. Umbuzeiro, D.A. Roubicek, C.M. Rech, M.I.Z. Sato, L.D. Claxton, Investigating the sources of the mutagenic activity found in a river using the Salmonella assay and different water extraction procedures, Chemosphere 54 (2004) 1589-1597]. Besides presenting high mutagenic activity in the Salmonella/microsome assay, the mutagenic nitro-aminoazobenzenes dyes CI Disperse Blue 373, Cl Disperse Violet 93, and CI Disperse Orange 37 [G.A. Umbuzeiro, H.S. Freeman, S.H. Warren, D.P Oliveira, Y. Terao, T. Watanabe, L.D. Claxton, the contribution of azo dyes in the mutagenic activity of the Cristais river, Chemosphere 60 (2005) 55-64] as well as benzidine, a known carcinogenic compound [T.M. Mazzo, A.A. Saczk, G.A. Umbuzeiro, M.V.B. Zanoni, Analysis of aromatic amines in surface waters receiving wastewater from textile industry by liquid chromatographic with eletrochemical detection, Anal. Lett., in press] were found in this effluent. After similar to 6 km from the discharge of this effluent, a drinking water treatment plant treats and distributes the water to a population of approximate 60,000. As shown previously, the mutagens in the DWTP intake water are not completely removed by the treatment. The water used for human consumption presented mutagenic activity related to nitro-aromatics and aromatic amines compounds probably derived from the cited textile processing plant effluent discharge [G.A. Umbuzeiro, D.A. Roubicek, C.M. Rech, M.I.Z.. Sato, L.D. Claxton, Investigating the sources of the mutagenic activity found in a river using the Salmonella assay and different water extraction procedures, Chemosphere 54 (2004) 1589-1597; G.A. Umbuzeiro, H.S. Freeman, S.H. Warren, D.P. Oliveira, Y. Terao, T. Watanabe, L.D. Claxton, the contribution of azo dyes in the multagenic activity of the Cristais river, Chemosphere 60 (2005) 55-64]. Therefore, it is important to evaluate the possible risks involved in the human consumption of this contaminated water. With that objective, one sample of the cited industrial effluent was tested for carcinogenicity in the aberrant crypt foci medium-term assay in colon of Wistar rats. The rats received the effluent in natura through drinking water at concentrations of 0.1%, 1%, and 10%. The effluent mutagenicity was also confirmed in the Salmonella/microsome assay with the strains TA98 and YG1041. There was an increased number of preneoplastic lesions in the colon of rats exposed to concentrations of 1% and 10% of the effluent, and a positive response for both Salmonella strains tested. These results indicate that the discharge of the effluent should be avoided in waters used for human consumption and show the sensitivity of the ACF crypt foci assay as an important tool to evaluate the carcinogenic potential of environmental complex mixtures. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Textile Dye Treated Photoelectrolytically and Monitored by Winogradsky Columns

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

Assessment of water contamination caused by a mutagenic textile effluent/dyehouse effluent bearing disperse dyes

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

The photoelectrocatalytic oxidative treatment of textile wastewater containing disperse dyes

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Acid Black 48 dye biosorption using Saccharomyces cerevisiae immobilized with treated sugarcane bagasse

The textile industry consumes large quantities of water and chemicals, especially in dyeing and finishing processes. Textile dye adsorption can be accomplished with natural or synthetic compounds. Cell immobilization using biomaterials allows the reduction of toxicity and mechanical resistance and opens spaces within the matrix for cell growth. The use of natural materials, such as sugarcane bagasse, is promising due to the low costs involved. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the use of sugarcane bagasse treated with either polyethyleneimine (PEI), NaOH or distilled water in the cell immobilization of Saccharomyces cerevisiae for textile dye removal. Three different adsorption tests were conducted: treated sugarcane bagasse alone, free yeast cells and bagasse-immobilized yeast cells. Yeast immobilization was 31.34% with PEI-treated bagasse, 8.56% with distilled water and 22.54% with NaOH. PEI-treated bagasse exhibited the best removal rates of the dye at all pH values studied (2.50, 4.50 and 6.50). The best Acid Black 48 adsorption rates were obtained with use of free yeast cells. At pH 2.50, 1 mg of free yeast cells was able to remove 5488.49 g of the dye. The lowest adsorption capacity rates were obtained using treated bagasse alone. However, the use of bagasse-immobilized cells increased adsorption efficiency from 20 to 40%. The use of immobilized cells in textile dye removal is very attractive due to adsorbed dye precipitation, which eliminates the industrial need for centrifugation processes. Dye adsorption using only yeast cells or sugarcane bagasse requires separation methods.