Mohair research update 17 : wearer comfort of mohair textiles - does mohair have an allergy problem?

Many aspects of textiles affect the comfort or discomfort experienced by people. The effects of variations in thermal, moisture transmission, air permeability, size, fit, aesthetics and static electrical properties on textiles have been known for many years (Slater, 1977). Problems experienced with wearer comfort, both sensory and functional, have increased in commercial importance for all animal fibres. Surveys have shown that consumers report that prickle discomfort from wearing wool next to the skin is a negative market attribute for wool (IWS, 1993; Millard Brown, 2007).

Effect of fibre, yarn and knitted fabric attributes associated with wool comfort properties

In this replicated experiment, we investigated the comfort properties of single jersey fabrics composed of cashmere in blends with superfine wools of different fibre curvature (crimp) where the fibre diameter of the wool and cashmere were tightly controlled. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) which has been calibrated using wearer trials of wool knitwear. General linear modelling determined the best prediction models for log10 transformed fabric WCM values using 27 fibre, 16 yarn and 30 fabric attributes. Tighter fabrics were less comfortable. Progressively blending cashmere with wool progressively increased comfort assessment. The WCM was able to detect differences between fabrics which were more supple and springy, thinner and lighter, and were composed of more elastic, uniform and stronger yarns. Together these attributes explained 82% of the variance in WCM value.

Predicting comfort properties of knitted fabrics by assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter

This study examined the feasibility of assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) to predict the comfort properties of the corresponding single jersey-knitted fabrics. The optimum yarn arrangement to predict the comfort value of a corresponding control fabric was determined using nine wool and wool/nylon-blended yarns (mean fibre diameter range 16.5–24.9 μm) knitted into 34 different fabrics. Using a notched template, yarn winding frequencies of 1, 3, 6, 12, 25 and 50 parallel yarns were tested on the WCM. The best predictor of fabric WCM values was using 25 parallel yarns. Inclusion of knitting gauge and cover factor slightly improved predictions. This indicates that evaluation at the yarn stage would be a reliable predictor of knitted fabric comfort, and thus yarn testing would avoid the time and expense of fabric construction.

Recyclable textiles functionalized with reduced graphene Oxide@ZnO for removal of oil spills and dye pollutants

A novel recyclable and flexible membrane was prepared for the removal of oil spills and organic dye pollutants, by functionalizing polyester textiles with reduced graphene oxide@ZnO nanocomposites using a layer-by-layer technique. The membrane showed efficient water/oil separation, and the amount of oil adsorbed by the membrane could be up to 23 times its own weight. The adsorption capacity was largely retained during many adsorption recycling cycles. The membrane also displayed highly efficient removal of a dye pollutant from water under simulated sunlight. The membrane maintained a near-original removal efficiency after five cycles of dye removal. This new type of membrane may find practical applications in the large-scale separation of organic pollutants from water, particularly in the field of oil spills clean-up and dye removal from industrial effluent.

Scalable One-Step Wet-Spinning of Graphene Fibers and Yarns from Liquid Crystalline Dispersions of Graphene Oxide: Towards Multifunctional Textiles

Key points in the formation of liquid crystalline (LC) dispersions of graphene oxide (GO) and their processability via wet-spinning to produce long lengths of micrometer-dimensional fibers and yarns are addressed. Based on rheological and polarized optical microscopy investigations, a rational relation between GO sheet size and polydispersity, concentration, liquid crystallinity, and spinnability is proposed, leading to an understanding of lyotropic LC behavior and fiber spinnability. The knowledge gained from the straightforward formulation of LC GO “inks” in a range of processable concentrations enables the spinning of continuous conducting, strong, and robust fibers at concentrations as low as 0.075 wt%, eliminating the need for relatively concentrated spinning dope dispersions. The dilute LC GO dispersion is proven to be suitable for fiber spinning using a number of coagulation strategies, including non-solvent precipitation, dispersion destabilization, ionic cross-linking, and polyelectrolyte complexation. One-step continuous spinning of graphene fibers and yarns is introduced for the first time by in situ spinning of LC GO in basic coagulation baths (i.e., NaOH or KOH), eliminating the need for post-treatment processes. The thermal conductivity of these graphene fibers is found to be much higher than polycrystalline graphite and other types of 3D carbon based materials.

A review on the application of photocatalytic materials on textiles

Incorporation of functional additives is one of the most important ways of functionalizing textiles. Among the additives, photocatalyst has been used extensively in recent years. This paper reviews the current research status on application of photocatalysts in fibrous materials. The review concentrates on novel methods for coating various photocatalysts on textiles and properties of the photocatalyst-modified textiles. The fundamental limitations and future prospects of this research are also discussed.

Recycling textiles : The use of ionic liquids in the separation of cotton polyester blends

Textiles are commonly made from intimate blends of polyester and cotton, which makes recycling very difficult. We report for the first time the use of ionic liquid in the separation of polyester cotton blends. By selective dissolution of the cotton component, the polyester component can be separated and recovered in high yield. This finding presents an environmentally benign approach to recycling textile waste. © 2014 The Royal Society of Chemistry.

Reducing photoyellowing of wool fabrics with silica coated ZnO nanoparticles

Though ZnO nanoparticles (NPs) are an excellent UV absorber, their photocatalytic activity greatly limits the application areas of these particles. Under sunlight exposure, ZnO NPs used as a UV absorber can accelerate the wool yellowing process by generating free radicals. To reduce this photocatalysis effect, a physical barrier has been fabricated by coating the ZnO NPs with a silica layer (ZnO@SiO2), hence providing good UV-shielding with low photocatalytic activity. The structure and optical properties of ZnO and ZnO@SiO2 NPs were characterized by transmission electron microscope (TEM) and UV–Vis spectrum. The photocatalytic activity of ZnO and ZnO@SiO2 NPs was evaluated by photo-degradation of Rhodamine B. The ZnO and ZnO@SiO2 NPs were applied to knitted wool fabrics using the dip coating method. The treated wool fabrics were characterized by a scanning electron microscope (SEM) and the photoyellowing level of treated fabrics after exposure under simulated sunlight was evaluated by a Datacolor Spectraflash spectrophotometer. The ZnO@SiO2 NPs demonstrated excellent protection of wool against photoyellowing.

Core-spun carbon nanotube yarn supercapacitors for wearable electronic textiles

Linear (fiber or yarn) supercapacitors have demonstrated remarkable cyclic electrochemical performance as power source for wearable electronic textiles. The challenges are, first, to scale up the linear supercapacitors to a length that is suitable for textile manufacturing while their electrochemical performance is maintained or preferably further improved and, second, to develop practical, continuous production technology for these linear supercapacitors. Here, we present a core/sheath structured carbon nanotube yarn architecture and a method for one-step continuous spinning of the core/sheath yarn that can be made into long linear supercapacitors. In the core/sheath structured yarn, the carbon nanotubes form a thin surface layer around a highly conductive metal filament core, which serves as current collector so that charges produced on the active materials along the length of the supercapacitor are transported efficiently, resulting in significant improvement in electrochemical performance and scale up of the supercapacitor length. The long, strong, and flexible threadlike supercapacitor is suitable for production of large-size fabrics for wearable electronic applications.

Physical properties of novel co-woven-knitted fabrics

 Co-woven-knitted (CWK) fabrics have been reported previously. Historically these unique structures have been used to develop composite and shielding fabrics. In this study, novel CWK structures with unique appearances was developed with a modified machine using wool and polyester yarns. The physical properties of these fabrics were compared with conventional woven and knitted fabrics. The thickness of the CWK fabrics was similar to knits. The fabrics showed a unique tensile strength, with higher bending rigidity, and performed better in abrasion resistance.

Relationships between wearer assessment and the instrumental measurement of the handle and prickle of knitted wool fabrics

The relationships between wearer-assessed comfort and objectively measured comfort and handle parameters were investigated using 19 pure wool single jersey garments made of single ply yarns. Wearer trials were used to determine prickle discomfort, and whether wearers “liked” the garments. Fabrics then were objectively evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes; and the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM), to predict a wearer's perception of fabric-evoked prickle. Wearer responses and the relationships within and between objective measurements and the effect of fibre, yarn and fabrics attributes were analysed by general linear modelling. Mean fibre diameter, fibre diameter coefficient of variation, yarn count, fabric thickness, fabric density, fabric mass per unit area and decatising affected one or more handle parameters. The best model for predicting wearer prickle discomfort accounted for 90.9% of the variance and included only terms for the WCM and WCM2. The WCM was a good predictor whereas mean fibre diameter was a poor predictor of whether wearers “liked” garments. Wearer assessment of prickle and whether or not wearers “liked” fabrics were independent of fabric handle assessment. The results indicate that the handle and comfort properties of lightweight, wool jersey fabrics can be quantified accurately using the Wool HandleMeter and the Wool ComfortMeter. For fabric handle, fibre and yarn characteristics were less important than changes in the properties of the fabric.

High-performance multifunctional graphene yarns: toward wearable all-carbon energy storage textiles

The successful commercialization of smart wearable garments is hindered by the lack of fully integrated carbon-based energy storage devices into smart wearables. Since electrodes are the active components that determine the performance of energy storage systems, it is important to rationally design and engineer hierarchical architectures atboth the nano- and macroscale that can enjoy all of the necessary requirements for a perfect electrode. Here we demonstrate a large-scale flexible fabrication of highly porous high-performance multifunctional graphene oxide (GO) and rGO fibers and yarns by taking advantage of the intrinsic soft self-assembly behavior of ultralarge graphene oxide liquid crystalline dispersions. The produced yarns, which are the only practical form of these architectures for real-life device applications, were found to be mechanically robust (Young's modulus in excess of 29 GPa) and exhibited high native electrical conductivity (2508 ± 632 S m(-1)) and exceptionally high specific surface area (2605 m(2) g(-1) before reduction and 2210 m(2) g(-1) after reduction). Furthermore, the highly porous nature of these architectures enabled us to translate the superior electrochemical properties of individual graphene sheets into practical everyday use devices with complex geometrical architectures. The as-prepared final architectures exhibited an open network structure with a continuous ion transport network, resulting in unrivaled charge storage capacity (409 F g(-1) at 1 A g(-1)) and rate capability (56 F g(-1) at 100 A g(-1)) while maintaining their strong flexible nature.

Ultrafine wools: comfort and handle properties for next-to-skin knitwear and manufacturing performance

This study aimed to quantify the skin comfort and handle properties of a range of wool fabrics produced from ultrafine wool (13.7–15.1 µm) and in doing so determine if differences in fiber diameter and staple crimp frequency (5.3–7.1 crimps/cm) were important in these properties. The fabrics were evaluated using a range of subjective and objective measurement techniques, including the Wool ComfortMeter, the Wool HandleMeter and in wearer trials. This work indicated that single jersey fabrics made from ultrafine wool are approaching the limit of objective and subjective evaluation of next-to-skin comfort. The results from the Wool ComfortMeter, Wool HandleMeter and the wearer trial show that there were no significant effects that can be attributed to wool staple crimp (fiber curvature) in these ultrafine wool fabrics. The work also demonstrated a difference in the manufacturing response when knitted fabric made from wools of different fiber diameter (13.7–23.7 µm), and using yarns of the same count, resulted in a progressively higher fabric mass per unit area as mean fiber diameter was progressively reduced.