The effect of pH on wool fiber diameter and fabric dimensions

Wool fabrics are often treated under conditions of varying pH in dyeing and finishing processes. It is known that in air the dimensions of wool fabrics change with the amount of fiber swelling at different regain. In this work, it has been shown that a similar relationship between fiber swelling and fabric dimensions existed in water at different pH values. The diameters of Merino and Corriedale wool fibers in water at different pH values were measured with an OFDA 2000 fiber diameter analyzer, fitted with a specially constructed accessory liquid cell. The results showed that the mean diameters of swollen wool fibers in water varied with pH. Minimum swelling was obtained in the range pH 5-7. It was found that the dimensions of wool fabric in water were dependent on the pH. The changes in fiber diameter in water could be attributed to changes in ionic interactions between charged acid and basic groups in wool protein with variations in pH.

The characterization and chemical reactivity of powdered wool

Wool powders with various particle sizes have been produced using different milling techniques. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) showed gradual breakdown of the fibre as it was progressively converted into powder form. Chlorination enhanced the effectiveness of subsequent air-jet milling. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) revealed an increase in the surface concentrations of oxygen and nitrogen, and a decrease in carbon and sulphur on conversion of the fibres into powders, as the cortex became exposed on the powder surface. An increased surface concentration of cysteic acid was observed for the chlorinated powder. Rapid uptake of dye by wool powders was observed in situations where there was virtually no uptake by the original fibre. Hydrophobic dyes were more readily sorbed than were hydrophilic dyes. The chlorination treatment led to a decrease in the sorption of acid dyes. Confocal microscopy, used in conjunction with a fluorescent stain, showed that chemicals were able to penetrate wool particles, even at room temperature. The rate and extent of uptake of dye by the finer powders were comparable to that obtained with activated charcoal, even though the surface area of the charcoal was 100 times greater.

Wear attributes of cashmere single jersey knitted fabrics blended with high and low crimp superfine merino wool

In a replicated experiment, we investigated the impact of cashmere in blends with superfine wools on the wear attributes of single jersey knitted fabrics. We also investigated the relative performance of low crimp/low fiber curvature superfine wool when compared with cashmere and also when compared with traditional high crimp/high fiber curvature superfine wool in pure and blended knitted fabrics. Wool type, blend ratio and fabric structure affected fabric air permeability, resistance to pilling and change in appearance, relaxation shrinkage, hygral expansion, and dimensional stability during laundering. The responses to variation in fiber crimp were much greater than previously reported. The fabric properties of low crimp wool differed significantly from those made from high crimp wool, and low crimp wool fabric properties differed significantly from, but were closer to, the fabric properties of cashmere, compared with high curvature wool.

Assessment of the pilling propensity of wool knitwear

This study addresses a major issue facing the wool industry - the formation of entangled fibres or pills on wool knitwear. By examining the factors that contribute to the inconsistent pilling results, ways of improving the test procedures have been identified. This will have practical implications for the textile industry.

Photochromic wool fabric by sol-gel coating

This thesis investigates the possibility of producing photochromic wool fabrics using a silica sol-gel coating method. Silicas made from sol-gel methods are uniquely suited to host photochromic dyes for developing colour-changing wool. The achieved photochromic effects have opened a new product area for fashion effects on wool textiles.

Controlling and predicting the pilling propensity of knitted wool fabrics

This thesis tackles an important quality issue in the wool industry - the pilling of wool knitwear. Through artificial neural network modelling, the important fibre, yarn and fabric attributes that affect fabric pilling have been identified. A predictive model on fabric pilling has been developed, which will assist the wool industry in the management and control of fabric pilling.

A study of dimensional changes in wool fibres and fabrics

Wool fabric dimensional properties were found to be influenced by the temperature and pH of the fabric, and on the fabric tension during pressure steaming. The results show that improvements can be made to standard methods for measuring fabric dimensional properties, and to the design of commercial finishing steaming equipment.

A study on within-fibre diameter variation of wool

This work established and experimentally validated several models for accurately predicting wool fibre and yarn properties. The results will be useful in fibre selection, and will help predict fibre processing performance and end-product quality.