A comparison of the ICI Pillbox and the Random Tumble Methods is assessing pilling and appearance change of worsted spun cashmere and cashmere-wool blend knitwear

This study evaluated the differences between two international test methods on the assessment of pilling and appearance change of worsted spun cashmere and superfine wool knitwear and their blends. Differences between the standard ICI Pill Box Method and the Random Tumble Method were found in both the significance and magnitude of resistance to pilling and appearance change and the amount of fabric mass loss of worsted spun cashmere and cashmere superfine wool blend knit fabrics. The ICI Pill Box Method differentiated to a greater extent the effects of wool type and blend ratio of cashmere and wool compared with the Random Tumble Method. Generally the addition of cashmere or low crimp superfine wool resulted in fabrics being more resistance to pilling and appearance change compared with fabrics made from high crimp superfine wool. This was associated with increased fabric mass loss when assessed by the ICI Pill Box Method but not with the Random Tumble Method. KEYWORDS: Cashmere, crimp, wool, pilling, appearance change, knitwear

Functional fabrics with controlled wettability

In this study, fabrics with novel super water-repellent and unidirectional water-transfer functions have been prepared using one-step wet-chemical coating processes. The mechanism of directional water transport across the fabrics having gradient superhydrophobicity to hydrophilicity has been elucidated.

Characterization and sorption ability of wool powder

This work focused on the characterisation of wool powders and their sorption capacity for dyes and metal ions. It provides new information to the field of wool and the potential use of wool to sorb contaminants from wastewater. It also suggests a new use for inferior and waste wool.

Objective pilling evaluation of nonwoven fabrics

A pilled nonwoven fabric image consists of brightness variations caused by high frequency noise, randomly distributed fibers, fuzz and pills, fabric surface unevenness, and background illumination variance. They have different frequency and space distributions and thus can be separated by the two-dimensional dual-tree complex wavelet transform reconstructed detail and approximation images. The energies of the six direction detail sub-images, which capture brightness variation caused by fuzz and pills of different sizes, quantitatively characterize the pilling volume distribution at different directions and scales. They are used as pilling features and inputs of neural network supervised classifier. The initial results based on a nonwoven wool fabric standard pilling test image set, the Woolmark®‚ SM 50 Blanket set, suggest that this objective pilling evaluation method developed by the combination of pilling identification, characterization method and neural network supervised classifier is feasible.

Improving wool/polyester yarn quality by transposal spinning with movable balloon control ring

To improve yarn quality in ring spinning frame, this paper examines transposal spinning with the movable balloon control ring. The left-transposal spinning and the right-transposal spinning were experimented to spin two yarns; after installing the movable balloon control ring, the two methods were respectively used to spin two other yarns again. All the experiments were on the same ring frame and the raw material was wool/polyester blend roving with a ration of 30/70. The main quality indexes of the four yarns were tested and analyzed, including hairiness, tensile property, evenness and usual faults. The results show that the yarn spun by the left-transposal spinning has a better quality than the right-transposal spinning, and after adding the movable balloon control ring, the improvement of yarn hairiness strength and evenness, as well usual faults, is very obvious. So, in the advantage of transposal spinning, the method of installing the movable balloon control ring can improve some deteriorative problems and make yarn quality better. In addition, the method gives new insight into energy efficiency. The research in this field in on the way and the result is in accord with the Low-carbon Economy.

Study into the ultrasonic cleaning of wool

This research studied the use of ultrasonic irradiation during wool cleaning with an aim to improve the cleaning process and reduce its impact on the environment. The research found that ultrasonic cleaning reduced energy, detergent and chemicals consumption, reduced fibre entanglement and had no significant effect on fibre properties.

Prediction of wool knitwear pilling propensity using data mining techniques

This thesis examined the application of data mining techniques to the issue of predicting pilling propensity of wool knitwear. Using real industrial data, a pilling propensity prediction tool with embedded trained support vector machines is developed to provide high accuracy prediction to wool knitwear even before the yarn is spun!

Evolution of moisture management behavior of high-wicking 3D warp knitted spacer fabrics

Moisture management behavior is a vital factor in evaluating thermal and physiological comfort of functional textiles. This research work studies functional 3 dimensional (3D) warp knitted spacer fabrics containing high-wicking materials characterized by their profiled cross section. These spacer fabrics can be used for protective vest to absorb a user’s sweat, to reduce the humidity and improve user’s thermal comfort. For this reason, different 3D warp knitted spacer fabrics were produced with functional fiber yarns in the back layer of the fabric (close to the body) and polyester in the front and middle layers (outer surface). Comfort properties such as air and water vapor permeability and wicking and other moisture management properties (MMP) of different fabric samples were measured. It is demonstrated that by using profiled fibers such as Coolmax fiber, moisture management properties of spacer fabrics can be improved, enabling them to be use as a snug-fitting shirt worn under protective vests with improved comfort.

Properties, processing and performance of rare and natural fibres : a review and interpretation of existing research results

A substantial up-to-date reference manual has been prepared which documents important issues for the supply chain of rare natural animal fibres. New developments in textiles have been included. Cashmere, mohair and camelid fibres have special properties of softness, smoothness and lustre, when compared with sheep wool. They also have other attributes which affect market prices and consumer perceptions, such as being rare and exotic luxuries, and are associated with expensive, comfortable and exclusive garments. These fibres add to the range of wool processing, and add value to wool textiles. Generally, knowledge about these animal fibres is limited, and research effort small compared with research into wool and other natural and man-made fibres. Compared with wool, rare natural animal fibres are more difficult and costly to process. Knowledge about processing these fibres is kept guarded as industrial knowledge. There are problems with clearly identifying rare natural animal fibres when goods are traded or fibres are blended, and fraud is a major concern for textile manufacturers and industry groups. Prickle discomfort in mohair and alpaca next-to-skin wear is a major concern for consumers and textile manufacturers. Natural colours, whiteness and yellowness of rare natural animal fibres are important fibre attributes for dyers and consumers, and the current products have both positive and negative colour attributes for processors. Past investments by RIRDC have made substantial gains in knowledge about fundamental and applied areas of knowledge on the properties, testing and processing performance of rare natural animal fibres.

Mohair research update 17 : wearer comfort of mohair textiles - does mohair have an allergy problem?

Many aspects of textiles affect the comfort or discomfort experienced by people. The effects of variations in thermal, moisture transmission, air permeability, size, fit, aesthetics and static electrical properties on textiles have been known for many years (Slater, 1977). Problems experienced with wearer comfort, both sensory and functional, have increased in commercial importance for all animal fibres. Surveys have shown that consumers report that prickle discomfort from wearing wool next to the skin is a negative market attribute for wool (IWS, 1993; Millard Brown, 2007).

Effect of fibre, yarn and knitted fabric attributes associated with wool comfort properties

In this replicated experiment, we investigated the comfort properties of single jersey fabrics composed of cashmere in blends with superfine wools of different fibre curvature (crimp) where the fibre diameter of the wool and cashmere were tightly controlled. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) which has been calibrated using wearer trials of wool knitwear. General linear modelling determined the best prediction models for log10 transformed fabric WCM values using 27 fibre, 16 yarn and 30 fabric attributes. Tighter fabrics were less comfortable. Progressively blending cashmere with wool progressively increased comfort assessment. The WCM was able to detect differences between fabrics which were more supple and springy, thinner and lighter, and were composed of more elastic, uniform and stronger yarns. Together these attributes explained 82% of the variance in WCM value.

Relationship between wearer prickle response with fibre and garment properties and Wool ComfortMeter assessment

The prickle evoked by 48 knitted fabrics was assessed by wearers under a defined evaluation protocol. The relationship between the average wearer prickle score and known properties of constituent fibre, yarns and fabrics and fabric evaluation using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) was determined using linear modelling. After log transformation, the best model accounted for 87.7% of the variance. The major share of variation could be attributed to differences between mean fibre diameter (MFD) and WCM values. Low prickle scores were linearly associated with lower MFD, lower WCM and lower yarn linear density. There was an indication that yarn twist affected prickle scores and that fabrics composed of cotton evoked less prickle. Measures of fibre diameter distribution or coarse fibre incidence and other fabric properties were not significant. The analysis indicates that wool garments can be constructed to keep wearer assessed prickle to barely detectable levels and textile designers can manipulate a range of parameters to achieve similar wearer comfort responses.