Characterization and application of objective pilling classification to patterned fabrics

Previously, the authors proposed a new, simple method of frequency domain analysis based on the two-dimensional discrete wavelet transform to objectively measure the pilling intensity in sample fabric images. The method was further characterized, and the results obtained indicate that standard deviation and variance are the most appropriate measures of the dispersion of wavelet details coefficients for analysis, that the relationship between wavelet analysis scale and fabric inter-yarn pitch was empirically confirmed, and, that fabrics with random patterns do not appear to impact on the effectiveness of the analysis method.

Improvement of adhesion of conductive polypyrrole coating on wool and polyester fabrics using atmospheric plasma treatment

In this paper wool and polyester fabrics were pretreated with atmospheric plasma glow discharge (APGD) to improve the ability of the substrate to bond with anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid doped conducting polypyrrole coating. A range of APGD gas mixtures and treatment times were investigated. APGD treated fabrics were tested for surface contact angle, wettability and surface energy change. Effect of the plasma treatment on the binding strength was analyzed by studying abrasion resistance, surface resistivity and reflectance. Investigations showed that treated fabrics exhibited better hydrophilicity and increased surface energy. Surface treatment by an APGD gas mixture of 95% helium/5% nitrogen yielded the best results with respect to coating uniformity, abrasion resistance and conductivity.

Characterization of conducting polymer coated fabrics at microwave frequencies

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate microwave reflection, transmission, and complex permittivity of p-toluene-2-sulfonic acid doped conducting polypyrrole coated nylon-lycra textiles in the 1-18?GHz frequency with a view to potential applications in the interaction of electromagnetic radiation with such coated fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach – The chemical polymerization of pyrrole is achieved by an oxidant, ferric chloride and doped with p-toluene sulfonic acid (pTSA) to enhance the conductivity and improve stability. Permittivity of the conducting textile substrates is performed using a free space transmission method accompanied by a mathematical diffraction reduction method.

Findings – The real part of permittivity increases with polymerization time and dopant concentration, reaching a plateau at certain dopant concentration and polymerization time. The imaginary part of permittivity shows a frequency dependent change throughout the test range. All the samples have higher values of absorption than reflection. The total electromagnetic shielding effectiveness exceeds 80 percent for the highly pTSA doped samples coated for 3?h.

Originality/value – A non-contact, non-destructive free space method thin flexible specimens to be tested with high accuracy across large frequency range. The non-destructive nature of the experiments enables investigation of the stability of the microwave transmission, reflection, absorption and complex permittivity values. Moreover, mathematical removal of the diffraction enables higher accuracy.

Short-term heating tests on doped polypyrrole-coated polyester fabrics

Polyethyleneterephtalate–polypyrrole (PET–PPy) textile complexes incorporating different anionic dopants have been heat treated at 60 °C, 80 °C, 105 °C, 125 °C and 150 °C to investigate effects of short-term heating on conductivity and stability. In most cases heat treatments below 80 °C did not significantly change the final resistance of the conducting textiles. Only the anionic dye-dopant Indigo Carmine acted in a heat-stabilizing manner during treatment at 150 °C, while all samples containing other anionic dopant underwent some degradation. A treatment temperature of 125 °C was the most effective for lowering the final resistance, with sulphonic group containing dopants being particularly effective in improving conductivity and stability. A 29% decrease in the final resistance of a PET–PPy/para-toluene-2-sulphonic acid (pTSA) sample was achievable after 900 s at 125 °C.

A comparative study on accelerated weathering tests of wool fabrics

This work has used two lightboxes with Philips 500 W MBTF lamps for a comparative trial on the photoyellowing evaluation of untreated wool fabrics under dry and wet conditions. An investigation was made to account for different trends of photoyellowing of the same wool fabric when irradiated by the two lightboxes. The fabric specimens irradiated in one lamp experienced increasing yellowing with irradiation time while specimens from the same wool fabric but irradiated under the other lamp manifested no noticeable color change. These differences are attributed to the susceptibility of wool to small spectral differences between the two MBTF lamps. Furthermore, the color fading results obtained from the commonly used blue wool standard (BWS) references from L1 to L3 show that these reference materials could not effectively reveal changes caused by the spectral differences in two MBTF lamps. These results have important implications for conducting accelerated weathering tests on spectrum-sensitive textile materials, and considerable care should be taken when using BWSs to ensure reliable and consistent irradiation results.

Wear attributes of cashmere single jersey knitted fabrics blended with high and low crimp superfine merino wool

In a replicated experiment, we investigated the impact of cashmere in blends with superfine wools on the wear attributes of single jersey knitted fabrics. We also investigated the relative performance of low crimp/low fiber curvature superfine wool when compared with cashmere and also when compared with traditional high crimp/high fiber curvature superfine wool in pure and blended knitted fabrics. Wool type, blend ratio and fabric structure affected fabric air permeability, resistance to pilling and change in appearance, relaxation shrinkage, hygral expansion, and dimensional stability during laundering. The responses to variation in fiber crimp were much greater than previously reported. The fabric properties of low crimp wool differed significantly from those made from high crimp wool, and low crimp wool fabric properties differed significantly from, but were closer to, the fabric properties of cashmere, compared with high curvature wool.

Polymer coatings containing nano particles of zinc oxide for the UV protection of dyed polyester fabrics

The useful life of many outdoor textile products is limited by degradation caused by exposure to sunlight, in particular by the ultra violet component (below 400 nm). The degradation results in fading of colours and also loss of physical properties, such as tear strength and abrasion resistance. Degradation can be decreased with UV absorbers, often used in conjunction with antioxidants or free radical quenchers. The protection afforded by these organic compounds is, however, limited as they are ultimately destroyed by the UV radiation they absorb.
An alternative approach is to coat fabrics with a polymer containing an inorganic UV absorber, such as zinc oxide. The inherent stability of zinc oxide would be expected to provide a protective effect over a much longer period than can be achieved with an organic UV absorber. A possible disadvantage of zinc oxide when applied in a polymer film is that absorption and scattering of visible light can produce hazy films and, hence, an unacceptable change in fabric appearance.
This poster paper examines the possibility of using nano particles of zinc oxide dispersed in acrylic polymers for protecting dyed polyester fabrics against sunlight fading. Factors affecting both UV absorbance and film clarity will be discussed. The possibility will also be examined that the protective effect may be reduced in some circumstances by reactive oxygen species, generated by the interaction of UV with zinc oxide in the presence of air and water.

A study of the photodegradation of protein fibres and fabrics

The photodegradation of protein fibres such as wool and silk has become a serious issue for both the fibre research community and the textile industry. This PhD project has used several novel techniques to tackle this challenging research topic. The results provide significant new insights into the mechanism of photodegradation.

Stimulus determinants and receptor mechanisms involved in the tactual perception of woollen fabrics

The dimensions of touch sensations were investigated in a series of human psychophysical experiments using woollen fabrics as stimuli and words from the textile industry literature as verbal descriptors of touch sensations. Roughness was shown to be an important dimension and was found to be encoded by two out of the four receptors in the skin that respond to specific frequencies of mechanical vibration.

Super water repellent fabrics produced by silica nanoparticle-containing coating

In this paper, we report on superhydrophobic fabrics (polyester, wool and cotton) produced by a wet-chemical coating technique. The coating solutions were synthesized by the co-hydrolysis of two silane precursors, tetraethyl orthosilicate (TEOS) and an alkylsilane, in an alkaline condition. Without any purification, the as-hydrolyzed solutions were directly used to treat fabrics, and the treated fabrics had water contact angles (CA) as high as 170º and sliding angles (SA) as low as 5º. Three alkylsilanes have been used for the synthesis of the coating solutions, and all contain three hydrolysable alkoxyl groups and one non-hydrolysable alkyl, but with different chain lengths (C1, C8 and C16). It was found that the CA value increased with an increase in the alkyl chain length, while the SA showed a reverse trend. When the functional group had a C16 alkyl, the treated fabric surfaces were highly superhydrophobic, with the CA not being affected much by the fabric type, while the SA values were slightly affected by the original wettability of the fabric substrates. The superhydrophobic feature was attributed to a highly rough surface formed by the particulate coating. Aside from the superhydrophobicity, the influence of the coating on the fabric softness was also examined.

A correlation study of subjective sensorial evaluation and objective softness measurement of wool fabrics

Comfort is one of the most important aspects of clothing, especially for next-to-skin garments such as shirts and trousers for summer. Sensorial comfort has a strong relationship with both the mechanical and surface properties of apparel fabric. A comfortable textile material should have properties of softness, smooth surface or texture, be pleasant to touch and very flexible. When assessing fabric handle subjectively, the assessor usually strokes the fabric surface with one or several fingers and squash the fabric gently in hand. Thus, the perception of such handle includes complex parameters of compression, tactile sensation and textural effect. In this work, we attempted to use a simple technique of objectively evaluating fabric softness related properties, by measuring the force required to pull a fabric strip through a series of parallel pins (the pulling force). We also subjectively rated the fabric handle. The correlation analysis showed very good agreement between the fabric pulling force and subjective hand rating.

A study on the photostability of photochromic fabrics from hybrid organosilica coatings

Photochromic fabrics were prepared using a coating solution containing photochromic dyes and silica sol-gel. The photochromic effect was rapid. The effect of three different post treatments on the optical and durability of the photochromic fabrics was evaluated. These included incorporating a UV stabilizer, increasing the surface hydrophobicity by fluorinating the pores, and blockading the dye-containing pores with additional silica coating. All the treatments improved photostability, without significantly affecting response/fading speeds.

Transport properties of multi-layer fabric based on electrospun nanofiber mats as a breathable barrier textile material

Layered fabric systems with an electrospun nanofiber web layered onto a sandwich of woven fabric were developed toexamine the feasibility of developing breathable barrier textile materials. Some parameters of nanofiber mats, including thetime of electrospinning and the polymer solution concentration, were designed to change and barrier properties ofspecimens were compared. Air permeability, water vapor transmission, and water repellency (Bundesmann and hydrostaticpressure tests) were assessed as indications of comfort and barrier performance of different samples. These performancesof layered nanofiber fabrics were compared with a well-known water repellent breathable multi-layered fabric(Gortex).Multi-layered electrospun nanofiber mats equipped fabric (MENMEF) showed better performance in windproof propertythan Gortex fabric. Also, water vapor permeability of MENMEF was in a range of normal woven sport and work clothing.Comparisons of barrier properties of MENMEF and the currently available PTFE coated materials showed that, thoseproperties could be achieved by layered fabric systems with electrospun nanofiber mats.

The effect of humidity and temperature on Wool Comfort Meter assessment of single jersey wool fabrics

The Wool ComfortMeter provides an objective measurement of the fabric-evoked prickle discomfort rating provided by wearers. This work aimed to quantify the sensitivity of the Wool ComfortMeter over a range of different temperature and humidity conditions to determine the recommended test conditions for its operation. The design was: three temperatures (notionally 20, 25 and 30°C) at three relative humidities (RHs, notionally 50, 65 and 80%) each with two replicates, using six different wool single jersey knits (mean fibre diameter 19.5–27.0 µm). As it was difficult to achieve exactly some of the extreme combinations of temperature and RH, some combinations were repeated, providing a total of 23 different assessment conditions. Data were analysed using restricted maximum likelihood mixed model analysis. The best fixed model included RH, RH2, temperature and the interaction of temperature and RH, accounting for 95% of the variation in Wool ComfortMeter readings. Wool ComfortMeter values were almost constant at 55–60% RH. Generally, the Wool ComfortMeter value reduced with increasing RH > 60% at temperatures of 25°C and 28.5°C as the regain of the fabric increased. However, at 20°C little change was detected as RH was increased from 50 to 80% as there were only small changes in fabric regain. The observed effects were in a good agreement with existing knowledge on the effect of regain on the mechanical properties of wool fibre. Wool ComfortMeter is best operated under standard conditions for textile testing of 65% RH and 20°C.

Physical properties of novel co-woven-knitted fabrics

 Co-woven-knitted (CWK) fabrics have been reported previously. Historically these unique structures have been used to develop composite and shielding fabrics. In this study, novel CWK structures with unique appearances was developed with a modified machine using wool and polyester yarns. The physical properties of these fabrics were compared with conventional woven and knitted fabrics. The thickness of the CWK fabrics was similar to knits. The fabrics showed a unique tensile strength, with higher bending rigidity, and performed better in abrasion resistance.