Shrinking Violets

Description of the work Shrinking Violets is comprised of two half scale garments in laser cut silk organza, developed with a knotting device to allow for disassembly and reassembly. The first is a jacket in layered red organza including black storm flap details. The second is a vest in jade organza with circles of pink organza attached through a pattern of knots. Research Background This practice-led fashion design research sits within the field of Design for Sustainability (DfS) in fashion that seeks to mitigate the environmental and ethical impacts of fashion consumption and production. The research explores new systems of garment construction for DfS, and examines how these systems may involve ‘designing’ new user interactions with the garments. The garments’ construction system allows them to be disassembled and recycled or reassembled by users to form a new garment. Conventional garment design follows a set process of cutting and construction, with pattern pieces permanently machine-stitched together. Garments typically contain multiple fibre types; for example a jacket may be constructed from a shell of wool/polyester, an acetate lining, fusible interlinings, and plastic buttons. These complex inputs mean that textile recycling is highly labour intensive, first to separate the garment pieces and second to sort the multiple fibre types. This difficulty results in poor quality ‘shoddy’ comprised of many fibre types and unsuitable for new apparel, or in large quantities of recyclable textile waste sent to landfill (Hawley 2011). Design-led approaches that consider the garment’s end of life in the design process are a way of addressing this problem. In Gulich’s (2006) analysis, use of single materials is the most effective way to ensure ease of recycling, with multiple materials that can be detached next in effectiveness. Given the low rate of technological innovation in most apparel manufacturing (Ruiz 2011), a challenge for effective recycling is how to develop new manufacturing methods that allow for garments to be more easily disassembled at end-of-life. Research Contribution This project addresses the research question: How can design for disassembly be considered within the fashion design process? I have employed a practice-led methodology in which my design process leads the research, making use of methods of fashion design practice including garment and construction research, fabric and colour research, textile experimentation, drape, patternmaking, and illustration as well as more recent methods such as laser cutting. Interrogating the traditional approaches to garment construction is necessarily a technical process; however fashion design is as much about the aesthetic and desirability of a garment as it is about the garment’s pragmatics or utility. This requires a balance between the technical demands of designing for disassembly with the aesthetic demands of fashion. This led to the selection of luxurious, semi-transparent fabrics in bold floral colours that could be layered to create multiple visual effects, as well as the experimentation with laser cutting for new forms of finishing and fastening the fabrics together. Shrinking Violets makes two contributions to new knowledge in the area of design for sustainability within fashion. The first is in the technical development of apparel modularity through the system of laser cut holes and knots that also become a patterning device. The second contribution lies in the design of a system for users to engage with the garment through its ability to be easily reconstructed into a new form. Research Significance Shrinking Violets was exhibited at the State Library of Queensland’s Asia Pacific Design Library, 1-5 November 2015, as part of The International Association of Societies of Design Research’s (IASDR) biannual design conference. The work was chosen for display by a panel of experts, based on the criteria of design innovation and contribution to new knowledge in design. References Gulich, B. (2006). Designing textile products that are easy to recycle. In Y. Wang (Ed.), Recycling in Textiles (pp. 25-37). London: Woodhead. Hawley, J. M. (2011). Textile recycling options: exploring what could be. In A. Gwilt & T. Rissanen (Eds.), Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the way we make and use clothes (pp. 143 - 155). London: Earthscan. Ruiz, B. (2014). Global Apparel Manufacturing. Retrieved 10 August 2014, from http://clients1.ibisworld.com/reports/gl/industry/default.aspx?entid=470

Creative Labor in Cinema and Media Industries

Introduction The rapidly burgeoning popularity of cinema at the beginning of the 20th century favored industrialized modes of creativity organized around large production studios that could churn out a steady stream of narrative feature films. By the mid-1910s, a handful of Hollywood studios became leaders in the production, distribution, and exhibition of popular commercial movies. In order to serve incessant demand for new titles, the studios relied on a set of conventions that allowed them to regularize production and realize workplace efficiencies. This entailed a socialized mode of creativity that would later be adopted by radio and television broadcasters. It would also become a model for cinema and media production around the world, both for commercial and state-supported institutions. Even today the core tenets of industrialized creativity prevail in most large media enterprises. During the 1980s and 1990s, however, media industries began to change radically, driven by forces of neoliberalism, corporate conglomeration, globalization, and technological innovation. Today, screen media are created both by large-scale production units and by networked ensembles of talent and skilled labor. Moreover, digital media production may take place in small shops or via the collective labor of media users or fans who have attracted attention due to their hyphenated status as both producers and users of media (i.e., “prosumers”). Studies of screen media labor fall into five conceptual and methodological categories: historical studies of labor relations, ethnographically inspired investigations of workplace dynamics, critical analyses of the spatial and social organization of labor, and normative assessments of industrialized creativity.

Participation in Urban Interaction Design for Civic Engagement

The future of civic engagement is characterised by both technological innovation as well as new technological user practices that are fuelled by trends towards mobile, personal devices; broadband connectivity; open data; urban interfaces; and cloud computing. These technology trends are progressing at a rapid pace, and have led global technology vendors to package and sell the “Smart City” as a centralised service delivery platform predicted to optimise and enhance cities’ key performance indicators – and generate a profitable market. The top-down deployment of these large and proprietary technology platforms have helped sectors such as energy, transport, and healthcare to increase efficiencies. However, an increasing number of scholars and commentators warn of another “IT bubble” emerging. Along with some city leaders, they argue that the top-down approach does not fit the governance dynamics and values of a liberal democracy when applied across sectors. A thorough understanding is required, of the socio-cultural nuances of how people work, live, play across different environments, and how they employ social media and mobile devices to interact with, engage in, and constitute public realms. Although the term “slacktivism” is sometimes used to denote a watered down version of civic engagement and activism that is reduced to clicking a “Like” button and signing online petitions, we believe that we are far from witnessing another Biedermeier period that saw people focus on the domestic and the non-political. There is plenty of evidence to the contrary, such as post-election violence in Kenya in 2008, the Occupy movements in New York, Hong Kong and elsewhere, the Arab Spring, Stuttgart 21, Fukushima, the Taksim Gezi Park in Istanbul, and the Vinegar Movement in Brazil in 2013. These examples of civic action shape the dynamics of governments, and in turn, call for new processes to be incorporated into governance structures. Participatory research into these new processes across the triad of people, place and technology is a significant and timely investment to foster productive, sustainable, and liveable human habitats. With this article, we want to reframe the current debates in academia and priorities in industry and government to allow citizens and civic actors to take their rightful centrepiece place in civic movements. This calls for new participatory approaches for co-inquiry and co-design. It is an evolving process with an explicit agenda to facilitate change, and we propose participatory action research (PAR) as an indispensable component in the journey to develop new governance infrastructures and practices for civic engagement. We do not limit our definition of civic technologies to tools specifically designed to simply enhance government and governance, such as renewing your car registration online or casting your vote electronically on election day. Rather, we are interested in civic media and technologies that foster citizen engagement in the widest sense, and particularly the participatory design of such civic technologies that strive to involve citizens in political debate and action as well as question conventional approaches to political issues. The rationale for this approach is an alternative to smart cities in a “perpetual tomorrow,” based on many weak and strong signals of civic actions revolving around technology seen today. It seeks to emphasise and direct attention to active citizenry over passive consumerism, human actors over human factors, culture over infrastructure, and prosperity over efficiency. First, we will have a look at some fundamental issues arising from applying simplistic smart city visions to the kind of a problem a city poses. We focus on the touch points between “the city” and its civic body, the citizens. In order to provide for meaningful civic engagement, the city must provide appropriate interfaces.

Innovación, financiación pública y tamaño empresarial

[ES] A partir de los microdatos de la "encuesta sobre innovación tecnológica 1998-2000" se construye una base de datos con las empresas manufactureras españolas que realizan actividades de innovación. Posteriormente, mediante las pruebas Chi-cuadrado de Pearson y Mann-Whitney, contrastamos si el tamaño condiciona la participación de las empresas manufactureras innovadoras en los sistemas de ayuda pública a la innovación; asimismo, a través de los índices de Kendall y Spearman evaluamos la dirección de dicho condicionamiento. Al respecto, los contrastes realizados nos indican que la variable tamaño se encuentra relacionada con la variable financiación pública, y que son las empresas de mayor tamaño las que más se benefician de las ayudas públicas a la innovación.

Patrones de innovación en las empresas hosteleras: el caso español

[ES] El objetivo de este trabajo es contribuir a la mejora del conocimiento existente sobre los patrones de innovación en las empresas hosteleras. Para ello, se ha utilizado una muestra representativa de 443 empresas hosteleras españolas pertenecientes al CNAE-55, que forman parte de la Tercera Encuesta de Innovación Tecnológica elaborada por la Comisión Europea (CIS-3) la cual se basa en una versión revisada del Manual de Oslo.

Augmented Peter Pan: un cuento multilingüe con Realidad Aumentada

[SPA] El objetivo de este Trabajo de Fin de Grado ha sido diseñar un cuento multilingüe que incorpora una innovación tecnológica, la Realidad Aumentada, para favorecer el proceso de enseñanza-aprendizaje lingüístico en la escuela. Para ello, hemos analizado algunos cuentos con Realidad Aumentada que se pueden encontrar en el mercado. Al no encontrar ningún cuento que cumpliese nuestras expectativas, hemos creado un cuento multilingüe con Realidad Aumentada adaptando el cuento clásico “Peter Pan”, que cumple los objetivos de fomentar el aprendizaje de diferentes idiomas y el gusto por la lectura, valorar las lenguas inmigrantes en las aulas y promover el uso de las TIC.

Lessons from History for Transitions to a Low Carbon Economy

4 p.

Divergences in the Long Run Trends in the Price of Energy and of Energy Services

32 p.

The Slow Search for Solutions: Lessons from Historical Energy Transitions by Sector and Service

28 p.

The Long Run Demand for Lighting: Elasticities and Rebound Effects in Different Phases of Economic Development

25 p.

La mujer investigadora en el País Vasco: análisis de la presencia de la mujer en actividades de I+D y el gasto en I+D

[ES]La apuesta por la igualdad en cualquier ámbito de nuestro entorno es un aspecto clave para la mejora de él. La igualdad en la investigación científica y desarrollo tecnológico es todavía un reto entre las instituciones que componen el sistema. En el País Vasco, existe un potente sistema y estructura de apoyo institucional a la ciencia, la tecnología y la innovación, y es imprescindible su correcto funcionamiento para un adecuado desarrollo de la I+D en todas sus vertientes. Para conocer la situación actual del País Vasco, este trabajo de investigación tiene como objetivo estudiar la relación existente entre la evolución del gasto en I+D y la evolución de la presencia de la mujer investigadora en actividades de I+D en el País Vasco. En general, el estudio nos permite concluir que la presencia de la mujer investigadora y el gasto en I+D han evolución de manera similar en los últimos veinte años.

Informazio-iturrien garrantzia berrikuntza teknologikoko jardueretarako

[EU]Gaur egunean bizi dugun krisi ekonomiko, produkzio ereduen transformazio eta globalizazioko testuinguruan, ikerketa, garapena eta berrikuntza (I+G+b) ezinbesteko faktoreak bilakatu dira herrialdeen hazkunde eta enpresen lidergo zein biziraupenerako. Berritasunaren bilatze horretan, egungo merkatuan enpresek etengabe egin beharreko egokitzapen teknologikoak direla eta, berrikuntza teknologikoak, hau da, produktuan edo prozesuan berritzeak, berebiziko garrantzia du. Gainera, oro har, lehiakortasunik ez galtzeko informazio estrategikoaren jabe izatea enpresentzat funtsezkoa bada ere, berrikuntza jarduerak aurrera eramateko oraindik ere gailentasun handiagoa dauka. Informazio estrategikoa iturri ezberdinetatik jaso daiteke eta horietako bakoitzari ematen zaion garrantzia ezberdina da. Lan honen helburua erlazio hori aztertzearena izanik, ondoriozta dezakegu, alde batetik, produktuan zein prozesuan berritzen duten enpresek, berrikuntza teknologikoak aurrera eramateko garaian, enpresa barnetik jasotako informazioari ematen diotela garrantzi gehien. Eta bestaldetik, instituzio publikoetatik, hau da, unibertsitate edo goi-ikasketetako zentroetatik, ikerketako erakunde publikoetatik edota zentro teknologikoetatik jasotako informazioari garrantzi gutxi ematen zaiola.

Sistemas fotovoltaicos integrados ao perfil de uso da edificação

Nos últimos anos, o consumo de energia vem crescendo mundialmente nos grandes centros urbanos, e esforços na área de eficiência energética estão sendo implantados, a fim de reduzir o consumo no horário da ponta e interrupções da rede. O aproveitamento das fontes renováveis, como o fotovoltaico em uma edificação se torna um atrativo a mais para a matriz energética num momento em que o país prima pela universalização dos serviços de energia e a classificação de edifícios comerciais, de serviço e públicos, além dos residenciais quanto à eficiência energética através do Procel Edifica (RTQ-C e RTQ-R). Os sistemas fotovoltaicos podem configurar perfis de uso nas edificações de modo a gerar energia para consumo próprio ou ligado à rede e ainda ter influência na arquitetura do prédio com revestimento: os perfis podem está em telhados, fachadas ou janelas, amenizando em alguns casos a carga térmica no prédio com sombreamento arquitetônico. Hoje, com o avanço da tecnologia no setor de armazenagem é possível, o atendimento com segurança e eficiência a uma edificação ou direcionar esta armazenagem a uma demanda específica como o atendimento à demanda de ciclo profundo, tais como, iluminação externa e recarga de veículos elétricos. Partindo da premissa de sistemas interruptos de energia, UPS, uso de fonte secundária como FV, baterias e Flywheel é apresentado uma forma de melhor gerenciar a energia armazenada, podendo estender a vida útil da bateria e conseqüentemente de todo o sistema fotovoltaico na edificação. Esta forma de armazenar energia proporciona um serviço de uso contínuo sem percepção das interrupções da rede com garantia de 20 anos, tal qual o módulo fotovoltaico, com esta proposta as perdas de energia elétrica na edificação serão atenuadas, pois a eletricidade será utilizada de forma eficiente e inteligente. O ponto de partida do estudo de caso no prédio do IBAM são os sistemas fotovoltaicos com geração distribuída (mini-redes) conectados à rede que são instalados para fornecer energia ao consumidor, complementando a quantidade de energia demandada, caso haja algum aumento do consumo de energia na edificação, ou ainda utilizar o sistema fotovoltaico na hora da ponta e interrupções do sistema da rede no período fora da ponta. A estocagem inercial por meio do Flywheel tem um papel fundamental nesta mini-rede (Flywheel, bateria VRLA, UPS, inversor e STS), pois a sua utilização pode ser apontada como uma inovação tecnológica quanto à regulação de tensão no sistema de energia elétrica, além de preparar a edificação para o smart-grid. Esta configuração de acumulação de energia permitiu a analise do deslocamento desta energia armazenada para o consumo no horário de ponta, mudando o conceito de sistemas fotovoltaicos autônomos no meio urbano e rural no país. Este conceito de armazenagem se confirma então como um aporte na eficiência de energia na edificação, podendo carrear economia de energia substancial, além de proporcionar uma confiabilidade no serviço de energia, com um baixo retorno do investimento e com uma garantia de funcionamento com pequena ou nenhuma manutenção durante o período de vida de 20 anos.

Análisis de la innovación tecnológica en las empresas del País Vasco

[ES]La innovación tecnológica es una estrategia por la que han apostado muchas de las empresas vascas en los últimos años, ya que aporta muchos beneficios tanto para las empresas, como para el sistema económico de la región. Además, las administraciones públicas han apoyado estas estrategias desde hace más de 30 años impulsando distintas medidas en cada fase. Con el fin de conocer cuál ha sido la evolución de la innovación tecnológica y su tendencia para los siguientes años, el presente trabajo analiza los factores relacionados con la innovación tecnológica en el País Vasco.

Innovaciones organizativas en las empresas españolas: Análisis del comportamiento de las empresas.

[ES]La innovación organizativa es un fenómeno relativamente nuevo, del que existen menos estudios de los necesarios, y por lo tanto, es importante analizarlo. La innovación en el ámbito organizativo consiste en la introducción de nuevas prácticas empresariales en la organización del trabajo o de los procedimientos de la empresa, nuevos métodos de organización en los lugares de trabajo y nuevos métodos de gestión de las relaciones externas con otras empresas o instituciones públicas, una acción muy útil en la difícil situación socio-económica que se vive actualmente en España. El objetivo de este trabajo es conocer cuál es el comportamiento de las empresas españolas innovadoras en las actividades de innovación organizativa, según su número de empleados, su gasto en innovación, su facturación y su año de creación, y también, analizar cuál es el grado de importancia de distintos objetivos de las innovaciones organizativas que se han introducido en las empresas, mediante el análisis de los datos procedentes del panel de innovación tecnológica (PITEC).