Sustainable fashion textiles design : value adding through technological enhancement

A key concern in the field of contemporary fashion/textiles design is the emergence of ‘fast fashion’: best explained as "buy it Friday, wear it Saturday and throw it away on Sunday" (O'Loughlin, 2007). In this contemporary retail atmosphere of “pile it high: sell it cheap” and “quick to market”, even designer goods have achieved a throwaway status. This modern culture of consumerism is the antithesis of sustainability and is proving a dilemma surrounding sustainable practice for designers and producers in the disciplines (de Blas, 2010). Design researchers including those in textiles/fashion have begun to explore what is a key question in the 21st century in order to create a vision and reason for their disciplines: Can products be designed to have added value to the consumer and hence contribute to a more sustainable industry? Fashion Textiles Design has much to answer for in contributing to the problems of unsustainable practices on a global scale in design, production and waste. However, designers within this field also have great potential to contribute to practical ‘real world’ solutions. ----- ----- This paper provides an overview of some of the design and technological developments from the fashion/textiles industry, endorsing a model where designers and technicians use their transferrable skills for wellbeing rather than desire. Smart materials in the form of responsive and adaptive fibres and fabrics combined with electro active devices, and ICT are increasingly shaping many aspects of society particularly in the leisure industry and interactive consumer products are ever more visible in healthcare. Combinations of biocompatible delivery devices with bio sensing elements can create analyse, sense and actuate early warning and monitoring systems which can be linked to data logging and patient records via intelligent networks. Patient sympathetic, ‘smart’ fashion/textiles applications based on interdisciplinary expertise utilising textiles design and technology is emerging. An analysis of a series of case studies demonstrates the potential of fashion textiles design practitioners to exploit the concept of value adding through technological garment and textiles applications and enhancement for health and wellbeing and in doing so contribute to a more sustainable future fashion/textiles design industry.

A new and efficient intelligent collaboration scheme for fashion design

Technology-mediated collaboration process has been extensively studied for over a decade. Most applications with collaboration concepts reported in the literature focus on enhancing efficiency and effectiveness of the decision-making processes in objective and well-structured workflows. However, relatively few previous studies have investigated the applications of collaboration schemes to problems with subjective and unstructured nature. In this paper, we explore a new intelligent collaboration scheme for fashion design which, by nature, relies heavily on human judgment and creativity. Techniques such as multicriteria decision making, fuzzy logic, and artificial neural network (ANN) models are employed. Industrial data sets are used for the analysis. Our experimental results suggest that the proposed scheme exhibits significant improvement over the traditional method in terms of the time–cost effectiveness, and a company interview with design professionals has confirmed its effectiveness and significance.

Near infrared optical materials from polymeric amorphous carbon synthesized by collisional plasma process

The synthesis of polymerlike amorphous carbon(a-C:H) thin-films by microwave excited collisional hydrocarbon plasma process is reported. Stable and highly aromatic a-C:H were obtained containing significant inclusions of poly(p-phenylene vinylene) (PPV). PPV confers universal optoelectronic properties to the synthesized material. That is a-C:H with tailor-made refractive index are capable of becoming absorption-free in visible (red)-near infrared wavelength range. Production of large aromatic hydrocarbon including phenyl clusters and/or particles is attributed to enhanced coagulation of elemental plasma species under collisional plasma conditions. Detailed structural and morphological changes that occur in a-C:H during the plasma synthesis are also described.

Intelligent distribution planning and control incorporating microgrids

This paper proposes a comprehensive approach to the planning of distribution networks and the control of microgrids. Firstly, a Modified Discrete Particle Swarm Optimization (MDPSO) method is used to optimally plan a distribution system upgrade over a 20 year planning period. The optimization is conducted at different load levels according to the anticipated load duration curve and integrated over the system lifetime in order to minimize its total lifetime cost. Since the optimal solution contains Distributed Generators (DGs) to maximize reliability, the DG must be able to operate in islanded mode and this leads to the concept of microgrids. Thus the second part of the paper reviews some of the challenges of microgrid control in the presence of both inertial (rotating direct connected) and non-inertial (converter interfaced) DGs. More specifically enhanced control strategies based on frequency droop are proposed for DGs to improve the smooth synchronization and real power sharing minimizing transient oscillations in the microgrid. Simulation studies are presented to show the effectiveness of the control.

Refining animal models in fracture research: Seeking consensus in optimising both animal welfare and scientific validity for appropriate biomedical use

Background In an attempt to establish some consensus on the proper use and design of experimental animal models in musculoskeletal research, AOVET (the veterinary specialty group of the AO Foundation) in concert with the AO Research Institute (ARI), and the European Academy for the Study of Scientific and Technological Advance, convened a group of musculoskeletal researchers, veterinarians, legal experts, and ethicists to discuss, in a frank and open forum, the use of animals in musculoskeletal research. Methods The group narrowed the field to fracture research. The consensus opinion resulting from this workshop can be summarized as follows: Results & Conclusion Anaesthesia and pain management protocols for research animals should follow standard protocols applied in clinical work for the species involved. This will improve morbidity and mortality outcomes. A database should be established to facilitate selection of anaesthesia and pain management protocols for specific experimental surgical procedures and adopted as an International Standard (IS) according to animal species selected. A list of 10 golden rules and requirements for conduction of animal experiments in musculoskeletal research was drawn up comprising 1) Intelligent study designs to receive appropriate answers; 2) Minimal complication rates (5 to max. 10%); 3) Defined end-points for both welfare and scientific outputs analogous to quality assessment (QA) audit of protocols in GLP studies; 4) Sufficient details for materials and methods applied; 5) Potentially confounding variables (genetic background, seasonal, hormonal, size, histological, and biomechanical differences); 6) Post-operative management with emphasis on analgesia and follow-up examinations; 7) Study protocols to satisfy criteria established for a "justified animal study"; 8) Surgical expertise to conduct surgery on animals; 9) Pilot studies as a critical part of model validation and powering of the definitive study design; 10) Criteria for funding agencies to include requirements related to animal experiments as part of the overall scientific proposal review protocols. Such agencies are also encouraged to seriously consider and adopt the recommendations described here when awarding funds for specific projects. Specific new requirements and mandates related both to improving the welfare and scientific rigour of animal-based research models are urgently needed as part of international harmonization of standards.

Formation of nanoporous materials via mild retro-Diels–Alder chemistry

Poly(styrene)-block-poly(ethylene oxide) copolymers synthesized via the combination of reversible addition fragmentation chain transfer (RAFT) polymerization and hetero Diels–Alder (HDA) cycloaddition can be cleaved in the solid state by a retro-HDA reaction occurring at 90 °C. Nanoporous films can be prepared from these polymers using a simple heating and washing procedure.

Microwave curing of non-traditional polymer materials used in manufacture of injection moulds

Microwave heating technology is a cost-effective alternative way for heating and curing of used in polymer processing of various alternate materials. The work presented in this paper addresses the attempts made by the authors to study the glass transition temperature and curing of materials such as casting resins R2512, R2515 and laminating resin GPR 2516 in combination with two hardeners ADH 2403 and ADH 2409. The magnetron microwave generator used in this research is operating at a frequency of 2.45 GHz with a hollow rectangular waveguide. During this investigation it has been noted that microwave heated mould materials resulted with higher glass transition temperatures and better microstructure. It also noted that Microwave curing resulted in a shorter curing time to reach the maximum percentage cure. From this study it can be concluded that microwave technology can be efficiently and effectively used to cure new generation alternate polymer materials for manufacture of injection moulds in a rapid and efficient manner. Microwave curing resulted in a shorter curing time to reach the maximum percentage cure.

The flammability of metallic materials in normal and reduced gravity

Metallic materials exposed to oxygen-enriched atmospheres – as commonly used in the medical, aerospace, aviation and numerous chemical processing industries – represent a significant fire hazard which must be addressed during design, maintenance and operation. Hence, accurate knowledge of metallic materials flammability is required. Reduced gravity (i.e. space-based) operations present additional unique concerns, where the absence of gravity must also be taken into account. The flammability of metallic materials has historically been quantified using three standardised test methods developed by NASA, ASTM and ISO. These tests typically involve the forceful (promoted) ignition of a test sample (typically a 3.2 mm diameter cylindrical rod) in pressurised oxygen. A test sample is defined as flammable when it undergoes burning that is independent of the ignition process utilised. In the standardised tests, this is indicated by the propagation of burning further than a defined amount, or „burn criterion.. The burn criterion in use at the onset of this project was arbitrarily selected, and did not accurately reflect the length a sample must burn in order to be burning independent of the ignition event and, in some cases, required complete consumption of the test sample for a metallic material to be considered flammable. It has been demonstrated that a) a metallic material.s propensity to support burning is altered by any increase in test sample temperature greater than ~250-300 oC and b) promoted ignition causes an increase in temperature of the test sample in the region closest to the igniter, a region referred to as the Heat Affected Zone (HAZ). If a test sample continues to burn past the HAZ (where the HAZ is defined as the region of the test sample above the igniter that undergoes an increase in temperature of greater than or equal to 250 oC by the end of the ignition event), it is burning independent of the igniter, and should be considered flammable. The extent of the HAZ, therefore, can be used to justify the selection of the burn criterion. A two dimensional mathematical model was developed in order to predict the extent of the HAZ created in a standard test sample by a typical igniter. The model was validated against previous theoretical and experimental work performed in collaboration with NASA, and then used to predict the extent of the HAZ for different metallic materials in several configurations. The extent of HAZ predicted varied significantly, ranging from ~2-27 mm depending on the test sample thermal properties and test conditions (i.e. pressure). The magnitude of the HAZ was found to increase with increasing thermal diffusivity, and decreasing pressure (due to slower ignition times). Based upon the findings of this work, a new burn criterion requiring 30 mm of the test sample to be consumed (from the top of the ignition promoter) was recommended and validated. This new burn criterion was subsequently included in the latest revision of the ASTM G124 and NASA 6001B international test standards that are used to evaluate metallic material flammability in oxygen. These revisions also have the added benefit of enabling the conduct of reduced gravity metallic material flammability testing in strict accordance with the ASTM G124 standard, allowing measurement and comparison of the relative flammability (i.e. Lowest Burn Pressure (LBP), Highest No-Burn Pressure (HNBP) and average Regression Rate of the Melting Interface(RRMI)) of metallic materials in normal and reduced gravity, as well as determination of the applicability of normal gravity test results to reduced gravity use environments. This is important, as currently most space-based applications will typically use normal gravity information in order to qualify systems and/or components for reduced gravity use. This is shown here to be non-conservative for metallic materials which are more flammable in reduced gravity. The flammability of two metallic materials, Inconel® 718 and 316 stainless steel (both commonly used to manufacture components for oxygen service in both terrestrial and space-based systems) was evaluated in normal and reduced gravity using the new ASTM G124-10 test standard. This allowed direct comparison of the flammability of the two metallic materials in normal gravity and reduced gravity respectively. The results of this work clearly show, for the first time, that metallic materials are more flammable in reduced gravity than in normal gravity when testing is conducted as described in the ASTM G124-10 test standard. This was shown to be the case in terms of both higher regression rates (i.e. faster consumption of the test sample – fuel), and burning at lower pressures in reduced gravity. Specifically, it was found that the LBP for 3.2 mm diameter Inconel® 718 and 316 stainless steel test samples decreased by 50% from 3.45 MPa (500 psia) in normal gravity to 1.72 MPa (250 psia) in reduced gravity for the Inconel® 718, and 25% from 3.45 MPa (500 psia) in normal gravity to 2.76 MPa (400 psia) in reduced gravity for the 316 stainless steel. The average RRMI increased by factors of 2.2 (27.2 mm/s in 2.24 MPa (325 psia) oxygen in reduced gravity compared to 12.8 mm/s in 4.48 MPa (650 psia) oxygen in normal gravity) for the Inconel® 718 and 1.6 (15.0 mm/s in 2.76 MPa (400 psia) oxygen in reduced gravity compared to 9.5 mm/s in 5.17 MPa (750 psia) oxygen in normal gravity) for the 316 stainless steel. Reasons for the increased flammability of metallic materials in reduced gravity compared to normal gravity are discussed, based upon the observations made during reduced gravity testing and previous work. Finally, the implications (for fire safety and engineering applications) of these results are presented and discussed, in particular, examining methods for mitigating the risk of a fire in reduced gravity.