Modellazione bidimensionale della propagazione nell'entroterra della inondazione da mare negli scenari dei previsti cambiamenti climatici

Le ricerche di carattere eustatico, mareografico, climatico, archeologico e geocronologico, sviluppatesi soprattutto nell’ultimo ventennio, hanno messo in evidenza che gran parte delle piane costiere italiane risulta soggetta al rischio di allagamento per ingressione marina dovuta alla risalita relativa del livello medio del mare. Tale rischio è la conseguenza dell’interazione tra la presenza di elementi antropici e fenomeni di diversa natura, spesso difficilmente discriminabili e quantificabili, caratterizzati da magnitudo e velocità molto diverse tra loro. Tra le cause preponderanti che determinano l’ingressione marina possono essere individuati alcuni fenomeni naturali, climatici e geologici, i quali risultano fortemente influenzati dalle attività umane soprattutto a partire dal XX secolo. Tra questi si individuano: - la risalita del livello del mare, principalmente come conseguenza del superamento dell’ultimo acme glaciale e dello scioglimento delle grandi calotte continentali; - la subsidenza. Vaste porzioni delle piane costiere italiane risultano soggette a fenomeni di subsidenza. In certe zone questa assume proporzioni notevoli: per la fascia costiera emiliano-romagnola si registrano ratei compresi tra 1 e 3 cm/anno. Tale subsidenza è spesso il risultato della sovrapposizione tra fenomeni naturali (neotettonica, costipamento di sedimenti, ecc.) e fenomeni indotti dall’uomo (emungimenti delle falde idriche, sfruttamento di giacimenti metaniferi, escavazione di materiali per l’edilizia, ecc.); - terreni ad elevato contenuto organico: la presenza di depositi fortemente costipabili può causare la depressione del piano di campagna come conseguenza di abbassamenti del livello della falda superficiale (per drenaggi, opere di bonifica, emungimenti), dello sviluppo dei processi di ossidazione e decomposizione nei terreni stessi, del costipamento di questi sotto il proprio peso, della carenza di nuovi apporti solidi conseguente alla diminuita frequenza delle esondazioni dei corsi d’acqua; - morfologia: tra i fattori di rischio rientra l’assetto morfologico della piana e, in particolare il tipo di costa (lidi, spiagge, cordoni dunari in smantellamento, ecc. ), la presenza di aree depresse o comunque vicine al livello del mare (fino a 1-2 m s.l.m.), le caratteristiche dei fondali antistanti (batimetria, profilo trasversale, granulometria dei sedimenti, barre sommerse, assenza di barriere biologiche, ecc.); - stato della linea di costa in termini di processi erosivi dovuti ad attività umane (urbanizzazione del litorale, prelievo inerti, costruzione di barriere, ecc.) o alle dinamiche idro-sedimentarie naturali cui risulta soggetta (correnti litoranee, apporti di materiale, ecc. ). Scopo del presente studio è quello di valutare la probabilità di ingressione del mare nel tratto costiero emiliano-romagnolo del Lido delle Nazioni, la velocità di propagazione del fronte d’onda, facendo riferimento allo schema idraulico del crollo di una diga su letto asciutto (problema di Riemann) basato sul metodo delle caratteristiche, e di modellare la propagazione dell’inondazione nell’entroterra, conseguente all’innalzamento del medio mare . Per simulare tale processo è stato utilizzato il complesso codice di calcolo bidimensionale Mike 21. La fase iniziale di tale lavoro ha comportato la raccolta ed elaborazione mediante sistema Arcgis dei dati LIDAR ed idrografici multibeam , grazie ai quali si è provveduto a ricostruire la topo-batimetria di dettaglio della zona esaminata. Nel primo capitolo è stato sviluppato il problema del cambiamento climatico globale in atto e della conseguente variazione del livello marino che, secondo quanto riportato dall’IPCC nel rapporto del 2007, dovrebbe aumentare al 2100 mediamente tra i 28 ed i 43 cm. Nel secondo e terzo capitolo è stata effettuata un’analisi bibliografica delle metodologie per la modellazione della propagazione delle onde a fronte ripido con particolare attenzione ai fenomeni di breaching delle difese rigide ed ambientali. Sono state studiate le fenomenologie che possono inficiare la stabilità dei rilevati arginali, realizzati sia in corrispondenza dei corsi d’acqua, sia in corrispondenza del mare, a discapito della protezione idraulica del territorio ovvero dell’incolumità fisica dell’uomo e dei territori in cui esso vive e produce. In un rilevato arginale, quale che sia la causa innescante la formazione di breccia, la generazione di un’onda di piena conseguente la rottura è sempre determinata da un’azione erosiva (seepage o overtopping) esercitata dall’acqua sui materiali sciolti costituenti il corpo del rilevato. Perciò gran parte dello studio in materia di brecce arginali è incentrato sulla ricostruzione di siffatti eventi di rottura. Nel quarto capitolo è stata calcolata la probabilità, in 5 anni, di avere un allagamento nella zona di interesse e la velocità di propagazione del fronte d’onda. Inoltre è stata effettuata un’analisi delle condizioni meteo marine attuali (clima ondoso, livelli del mare e correnti) al largo della costa emiliano-romagnola, le cui problematiche e linee di intervento per la difesa sono descritte nel quinto capitolo, con particolare riferimento alla costa ferrarese, oggetto negli ultimi anni di continui interventi antropici. Introdotto il sistema Gis e le sue caratteristiche, si è passati a descrivere le varie fasi che hanno permesso di avere in output il file delle coordinate x, y, z dei punti significativi della costa, indispensabili al fine della simulazione Mike 21, le cui proprietà sono sviluppate nel sesto capitolo.

Medem Channel profiles based on stand-alone model simulation and corrections with nudging

State-of-the-art process-based models have shown to be applicable to the simulation and prediction of coastal morphodynamics. On annual to decadal temporal scales, these models may show limitations in reproducing complex natural morphological evolution patterns, such as the movement of bars and tidal channels, e.g. the observed decadal migration of the Medem Channel in the Elbe Estuary, German Bight. Here a morphodynamic model is shown to simulate the hydrodynamics and sediment budgets of the domain to some extent, but fails to adequately reproduce the pronounced channel migration, due to the insufficient implementation of bank erosion processes. In order to allow for long-term simulations of the domain, a nudging method has been introduced to update the model-predicted bathymetries with observations. The model-predicted bathymetry is nudged towards true states in annual time steps. Sensitivity analysis of a user-defined correlation length scale, for the definition of the background error covariance matrix during the nudging procedure, suggests that the optimal error correlation length is similar to the grid cell size, here 80-90 m. Additionally, spatially heterogeneous correlation lengths produce more realistic channel depths than do spatially homogeneous correlation lengths. Consecutive application of the nudging method compensates for the (stand-alone) model prediction errors and corrects the channel migration pattern, with a Brier skill score of 0.78. The proposed nudging method in this study serves as an analytical approach to update model predictions towards a predefined 'true' state for the spatiotemporal interpolation of incomplete morphological data in long-term simulations.

Storm evolution characterization for analysing stone armour damage progression

Storm evolution is fundamental for analysing the damage progression of the different failure modes and establishing suitable protocols for maintaining and optimally sizing structures. However, this aspect has hardly been studied and practically the whole of the studies dealing with the subject adopt the Equivalent triangle storm. As against this approach, two new ones are proposed. The first is the Equivalent Triangle Magnitude Storm model (ETMS), whose base, the triangular storm duration, D, is established such that its magnitude (area describing the storm history above the reference threshold level which sets the storm condition),HT, equals the real storm magnitude. The other is the Equivalent Triangle Number of Waves Storm (ETNWS), where the base is referred in terms of the real storm's number of waves,Nz. Three approaches are used for estimating the mean period, Tm, associated to each of the sea states defining the storm evolution, which is necessary to determine the full energy flux withstood by the structure in the course of the extreme event. Two are based on the Jonswap spectrum representativity and the other uses the bivariate Gumbel copula (Hs, Tm), resulting from adjusting the storm peaks. The representativity of the approaches proposed and those defined in specialised literature are analysed by comparing the main armour layer's progressive loss of hydraulic stability caused by real storms and that relating to theoretical ones. An empirical maximum energy flux model is used for this purpose. The agreement between the empirical and theoretical results demonstrates that the representativity of the different approaches depends on the storm characteristics and point towards a need to investigate other geometrical shapes to characterise the storm evolution associated with sea states heavily influenced by swell wave components.

Analysis of the influence of the different variables involved in a damage progression probability model

Motivated by these difficulties, Castillo et al. (2012) made some suggestions on how to build consistent stochastic models avoiding the selection of easy to use mathematical functions, which were replaced by those resulting from a set of properties to be satisfied by the model.

Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves

Stereo video techniques are effective for estimating the space-time wave dynamics over an area of the ocean. Indeed, a stereo camera view allows retrieval of both spatial and temporal data whose statistical content is richer than that of time series data retrieved from point wave probes. To prove this, we consider an application of the Wave Acquisition Stereo System (WASS) for the analysis of offshore video measurements of gravity waves in the Northern Adriatic Sea. In particular, we deployed WASS at the oceanographic platform Acqua Alta, off the Venice coast, Italy. Three experimental studies were performed, and the overlapping field of view of the acquired stereo images covered an area of approximately 1100 m2. Analysis of the WASS measurements show that the sea surface can be accurately estimated in space and time together, yielding associated directional spectra and wave statistics that agree well with theoretical models. From the observed wavenumber-frequency spectrum one can also predict the vertical profile of the current flow underneath the wave surface. Finally, future improvements of WASS and applications are discussed.

Lugares adecuados para la utilización de nuevos materiales y formas con geotextiles en la gestión integral de la zona litoral como protección ambiental

La erosión costera es un fenómeno que ha cobrado importancia durante los últimos años, debido a sus repercusiones tanto en el turismo, como en el incremento de riesgo para las infraestructuras y para la población allí ubicada. Se define como el retroceso progresivo de la línea de costa cuyas causas pueden ser de origen natural o antropogénicas. La costa merece la máxima protección, y su gestión debe asegurar su integridad física y su libre acceso, al igual que un uso público por parte de todos. En este horizonte, la reducción de costes, la facilidad de construcción y velocidad de realización, las obras de geotextil se han mostrado como una alternativa muy seria a las obras duras u obras clásicas, tradicionalmente realizadas a lo largo de las costas. Pero esta alternativa de uso conlleva un mayor conocimiento en el comportamiento de éstas, su diseño y durabilidad. Las obras de geotextil, como su nombre indica, se realizan con elementos tridimensionales de geotextil (cosidos o no cosidos) rellenos de arena. Estos elementos se pueden considerar innovadores, económicos, ecológicos y alternativos frente a los tradicionales. Se distinguen tres tipos denominados: sacos, tubos y contenedores. El principal objetivo de esta tesis se centra en la determinación de las zonas de la costa apropiados para la utilización de estructuras compuestas de elementos de geotextil rellenos de arena, como obras de defensa de costas, con el fin de facilitar su uso en la ingeniería de costas. Para ello se ha clasificado tanto las distintas zonas del perfil longitudinal de una playa, como los tipos de costa en función de la variable altura de ola significante. Se han determinado las limitaciones de esta variable en las distintas fórmulas de estabilidad de estas estructuras. Y finalmente, en función de la máxima limitación de altura de ola significante y de sus posibles valores en las zonas y tipos de costa, se han determinado las zonas más apropiadas para el uso de las estructuras compuestas por elementos de geotextil. Finalmente se han redactado las conclusiones de la investigación y se han propuesto nuevas líneas de investigación relacionadas con esta Tesis Doctoral. Coastal erosion is a phenomenon that has become more important in recent years because of its impact on both on tourism, and increased risk to infrastructure and the population located there. It is defined as the gradual decline in the coastline whose causes may be natural or anthropogenic origin. The coast deserves maximum protection, and management should ensure their physical integrity and their free access, as well as public use by all. In this line, cost reduction, ease of construction and completion rate, geotextile works have been shown as a very serious to hard works or classics alternative, traditionally performed along the coasts. But this alternative use entails greater insight into the behaviour of these, design and durability. Works of geotextile, as its name suggests, are made with three-dimensional elements of geotextile (sewn or stitched) filled with sand. These items can be considered innovative, economic, and ecological alternative compared to traditional. Bags, tubes and containers, three known types are distinguished. The main objective of this thesis focuses on determining the appropriate areas of the coast for the use of composite structures of elements filled geotextile sand as coastal defence works, in order to facilitate their use, in coastal engineering. For it, has been classified by both the different areas of the longitudinal profile of a beach as the shoreline types depending on the variable significant wave height. We have determined the limitations of this variable in the different formulas stability of these structures. And finally, depending on the maximum limitation of significant wave height and its possible values in the areas and types of coastline, have determined the most appropriate for use in structures composed of elements of geotextile areas. Finally, the conclusions of the research have been addressed and the proposal of new lines of work related to the topic has been made.

Improvement of theoretical storm characterization for different climate conditions

The different theoretical models related with storm wave characterization focus on determining the significant wave height of the peak storm, the mean period and, usually assuming a triangle storm shape, their duration. In some cases, the main direction is also considered. Nevertheless, definition of the whole storm history, including the variation of the main random variables during the storm cycle is not taken into consideration. The representativeness of the proposed storm models, analysed in a recent study using an empirical maximum energy flux time dependent function shows that the behaviour of the different storm models is extremely dependent on the climatic characteristics of the project area. Moreover, there are no theoretical models able to adequately reproduce storm history evolution of the sea states characterized by important swell components. To overcome this shortcoming, several theoretical storm shapes are investigated taking into consideration the bases of the three best theoretical storm models, the Equivalent Magnitude Storm (EMS), the Equivalent Number of Waves Storm (ENWS) and the Equivalent Duration Storm (EDS) models. To analyse the representativeness of the new storm shape, the aforementioned maximum energy flux formulation and a wave overtopping discharge structure function are used. With the empirical energy flux formulation, correctness of the different approaches is focussed on the progressive hydraulic stability loss of the main armour layer caused by real and theoretical storms. For the overtopping structure equation, the total volume of discharge is considered. In all cases, the results obtained highlight the greater representativeness of the triangular EMS model for sea waves and the trapezoidal (nonparallel sides) EMS model for waves with a higher degree of wave development. Taking into account the increase in offshore and shallow water wind turbines, maritime transport and deep vertical breakwaters, the maximum wave height of the whole storm history and that corresponding to each sea state belonging to its cycle's evolution is also considered. The procedure considers the information usually available for extreme waves' characterization. Extrapolations of the maximum wave height of the selected storms have also been considered. The 4th order statistics of the sea state belonging to the real and theoretical storm have been estimated to complete the statistical analysis of individual wave height

Floating breakwater field experience, West Coast /

Mode of access: Internet.

Bank erosion control with vegetation, San Francisco Bay, California /

Cover title.

The history of the Beach Erosion Board, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, 1930 -63 /

Issued August 1977.

Mathematical modeling of shoreline evolution /

"October 1977."

Sand resources on the Inner Continental Shelf of the Cape Fear region, North Carolina /

"November 1977."

Beach erosion and accretion at Virginia Beach, Virginia, and vicinity /

"December 1977."

Shoreline plant establishment and use of a wave-stilling device /

"January 1978."

Ecological effects of an artificial island, Rincon Island, Punta Gorda, California /

This study documents marine ecological conditions at Rincon Island, located approximately 0.8 kilometer offshore between Ventura and Santa Barbara, California, in a depth of 14 meters. The island, which was constructed between 1957 and 1958 to serve as a permanent platform for oil and gas production, is particularly suitable for ecological study. Habitat features associated with the armor rock and concrete tetrapods surrounding the island support a 'microecosystem' which differs in biotic composition from surrounding natural bottom areas. A major part of the study was devoted to analysis of seasonal dynamics in biotic composition. Permanent transects extending from the high intertidal to natural bottom were established normal to each of the four cardinal sides of the island. All macrobiota were censused in duplicate 1-square meter quadrats along each transect during each of the four seasons. Data analysis indicated that many species exhibit significant variability in abundance from one season to the next. In general, the findings indicate a rich and varied fauna and flora associated with the high-relief solid substrate of Rincon Island which differs substantially from the more depauperate natural bottom habitats in the area.