Influence of mean water depth and a subsurface sandbar on the onset and strength of wave breaking

Wave breaking in the open ocean and coastal zones remains an intriguing yet incompletely understood process, with a strong observed association with wave groups. Recent numerical study of the evolution of fully nonlinear, two-dimensional deep water wave groups identified a robust threshold of a diagnostic growth-rate parameter that separated nonlinear wave groups that evolved to breaking from those that evolved with recurrence. This paper investigates whether these deep water wave-breaking results apply more generally, particularly in finite-water-depth conditions. For unforced nonlinear wave groups in intermediate water depths over a flat bottom, it was found that the upper bound of the diagnostic growth-rate threshold parameter established for deep water wave groups is also applicable in intermediate water depths, given by k(0) h greater than or equal to 2, where k(0) is the mean carrier wavenumber and h is the mean depth. For breaking onset over an idealized circular arc sandbar located on an otherwise flat, intermediate-depth (k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) environment, the deep water breaking diagnostic growth rate was found to be applicable provided that the height of the sandbar is less than one-quarter of the ambient mean water depth. Thus, for this range of intermediate-depth conditions, these two classes of bottom topography modify only marginally the diagnostic growth rate found for deep water waves. However, when intermediate-depth wave groups ( k(0) h greater than or equal to 2) shoal over a sandbar whose height exceeds one-half of the ambient water depth, the waves can steepen significantly without breaking. In such cases, the breaking threshold level and the maximum of the diagnostic growth rate increase systematically with the height of the sandbar. Also, the dimensions and position of the sandbar influenced the evolution and breaking threshold of wave groups. For sufficiently high sandbars, the effects of bottom topography can induce additional nonlinearity into the wave field geometry and associated dynamics that modifies the otherwise robust deep water breaking-threshold results.

Joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied. (C) 2003 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Statistical distribution of depth-integrated local horizontal momentum for second-order random ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth- integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.

Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram-Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram-Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

On the western boundary currents in the Philippine Sea

In this study we describe the velocity structure and transport of the North Equatorial Current (NEC), the Kuroshio, and the Mindanao Current (MC) using repeated hydrographic sections near the Philippine coast. A most striking feature of the current system in the region is the undercurrent structure below the surface flow. Both the Luzon Undercurrent and the Mindanao Undercurrent appear to be permanent phenomena. The present data set also provides an estimate of the mean circulation diagram (relative to 1500 dbar) that involves a NEC transport of 41 Sverdrups (Sv), a Kuroshio transport of 14 Sv, and a MC transport of 27 Sv, inducing a mass balance better than 1 Sv within the region enclosed by stations. The circulation diagram is insensitive to vertical displacements of the reference level within the depth range between 1500 and 2500 dbar. Transport fluctuations are, in general, consistent with earlier observations; that is, the NEC and the Kuroshio vary in the same phase with a seasonal signal superimposed with interannual variations, and the transport of the MC is dominated by a quasi-biennial oscillation. Dynamic height distributions are also examined to explore the dynamics of the current system.

Depth inversion in coastal water based on SAR image of waves

Wave-number spectrum technique is proposed to retrieve coastal water depths by means of Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) image of waves. Based on the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, the wavelength changes of a surface wave over varying water depths can be derived from SAR. Approaching the analysis of SAR images of waves and using the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, this indirect technique of remote sensing bathymetry has been applied to a coastal region of Xiapu in Fujian Province, China. Results show that this technique is suitable for the coastal waters especially for the near-shore regions with variable water depths.

Role of snow depth in spring of Tibetan Plateau in onset of South China Sea summer monsoon

The role of snow depth of Tibetan Plateau in the onset of South China Sea summer monsoon and the influence of ENSO on snow depth of Tibetan Plateau are investigated with use of data from ECMWF reanalysis and NCEP/NCAR reanalysis. The results are as follows: (1) The snow depth data from ECMWF reanalysis are tested and reliable, and can be used to study the influence of snow depth of Tibetan Plateau on the onset of South China Sea summer monsoon; (2) Anomaly of snow depth of Tibetan Plateau causes anomaly in air temperature and its contrast between the Indian Ocean and the continent resulting in easterly wind anomaly over 500 hPa and hence as well as in the atmospheric circulation in the lower layer. For the year of negative anomaly of snow depth a westerly wind anomaly with a cyclone pair takes place, while for positive anomaly of snow depth an easterly anomaly occurs with an anticyclone pair; (3) While positive anomaly of SST occurs in the eastern Pacific Ocean, positive anomaly of air pressure also takes place over the eastern Indian Ocean and the South China Sea, causing stronger meridional pressure gradient between the ocean and continent and then westerly wind anomaly. At the same time, the atmospheric pressure increases in the northern Tibetan Plateau, northerly wind gets stronger, and subtropical front strengthens. All of these are favorable for snowfall over Tibetan Plateau.

A new method for the estimation of oceanic mixed-layer depth using shipboard X-band radar images

Shipboard X-band radar images acquired on 24 June 2009 are used to study nonlinear internal wave characteristics in the northeastern South China Sea. The studied images show three nonlinear internal waves in a packet. A method based on the Radon Transform technique is introduced to calculate internal wave parameters such as the direction of propagation and internal wave velocity from backscatter images. Assuming that the ocean is a two-layer finite depth system, we can derive the mixed-layer depth by applying the internal wave velocity to the mixed-layer depth formula. Results show reasonably good agreement with in-situ thermistor chain and conductivity-temperature-depth data sets.

Factors influencing the climatological mixed layer depth in the South China Sea: numerical simulations

The mixed layer depth (MLD) in the upper ocean is an important physical parameter for describing the upper ocean mixed layer. We analyzed several major factors influencing the climatological mixed layer depth (CMLD), and established a numerical simulation in the South China Sea (SCS) using the Regional Ocean Model System (ROMS) with a high-resolution (1/12A degrees x1/12A degrees) grid nesting method and 50 vertical layers. Several ideal numerical experiments were tested by modifying the existing sea surface boundary conditions. Especially, we analyzed the sensitivity of the results simulated for the CMLD with factors of sea surface wind stress (SSWS), sea surface net heat flux (SSNHF), and the difference between evaporation and precipitation (DEP). The result shows that of the three factors that change the depth of the CMLD, SSWS is in the first place, when ignoring the impact of SSWS, CMLD will change by 26% on average, and its effect is always to deepen the CMLD; the next comes SSNHF (13%) for deepening the CMLD in October to January and shallowing the CMLD in February to September; and the DEP comes in the third (only 2%). Moreover, we analyzed the temporal and spatial characteristics of CMLD and compared the simulation result with the ARGO observational data. The results indicate that ROMS is applicable for studying CMLD in the SCS area.

潮波模型的优化开边界方法研究

数值模式是潮波研究的一种有利手段，但在研究中会面临各种具体问题，包括开边界条件的确定、底摩擦系数和耗散系数的选取等。数据同化是解决这些问题的一种途径，即利用有限数量的潮汐观测资料对潮波进行最优估计，其根本目的是迫使模型预报值逼近观测值，使模式不要偏离实际情况太远。本文采用了一种优化开边界方法，沿着数值模型的开边界优化潮汐水位信息，目的是设法使数值解在动力约束的意义下接近观测值，获得研究区域的潮汐结果。边界值由指定优化问题的解来定，以提高模拟区域的潮汐精度，最优问题的解是基于通过开边界的能量通量的变化，处理开边界处的观测值与计算值之差的最小化。这里提供了辐射型边界条件，由Reid 和Bodine（本文简称为RB）推导，我们将采用的优化后的RB方法（称为ORB）是优化开边界的特殊情况。 本文对理想矩形海域（ E- E， N- N， 分辨率 ）进行了潮波模拟，有东部开边界，模式采用ECOM3D模式。对数据结果的误差分析采用，振幅平均偏差，平均绝对偏差，平均相对误差和均方根偏差四个值来衡量模拟结果的好坏程度。 需要优化入开边界的解析潮汐值本文采用的解析解由方国洪《海湾的潮汐与潮流》（1966年）方法提供，为验证本文所做的解析解和方文的一致，本文做了其第一个例子的关键值a,b,z,结果与其结果吻合的相当好。但略有差别，分析的可能原因是两法在具体迭代方案和计算机保留小数上有区别造成微小误差。另外，我们取m=20，得到更精确的数值，我们发现对前十项的各项参数值，取m=10,m=20各项参数略有改进。当然我们可以获得m更大的各项参数值。 同时为了检验解析解的正确性讨论m和l变化对边界值的影响，结果指出，增大m，m=20时，u的模最大在本身u1或u2的模的6%；m=100时，u的模最大在本身u1或u2的模的4%；m再增大，m=1000时，u的模最大在本身u1或u2的模的4%，改变不大。当l<1时， =0处u的模最大为2。当l=1时， =0处u的模最大为0.1，当l>1时，l越大，u的模越小，当l=10时，u的模最大为0.001，可以认为为0。 为检验该优化方法的应用情况，我们对理想矩形区域进行模拟，首先将本文所采用的优化开边界方法应用于30m的情况，在开边界优化入开边界得出模式解，所得模拟结果与解析解吻合得相当好，该模式解和解析解在整个区域上，振幅平均绝对偏差为9.9cm,相位平均绝对偏差只有4.0 ，均方根偏差只有13.3cm，说明该优化方法在潮波模型中有效。 为验证该优化方法在各种条件下的模拟结果情况，在下面我们做了三类敏感性试验： 第一类试验：为证明在开边界上使用优化方法相比于没有采用优化方法的模拟解更接近于解析解，我们来比较ORB条件与RB条件的优劣，我们模拟用了两个不同的摩擦系数，k分别为：0,0.00006。 结果显示，针对不同摩擦系数，显示在开边界上使用ORB条件的解比使用RB条件的解无论是振幅还是相位都有显著改善，两个试验均方根偏差优化程度分别为84.3%，83.7%。说明在开边界上使用优化方法相比于没有采用优化方法的模拟解更接近于解析解，大大提高了模拟水平。上述的两个试验得出， k=0.00006优化结果比k=0的好。 第二类试验，使用ORB条件确定优化开边界情况下，在东西边界加入出入流的情况，流考虑线性和非线性情况，结果显示，加入流的情况，潮汐模拟的效果降低不少，流为1Sv的情况要比5Sv的情况均方根偏差相差20cm,而不加流的情况只有0.2cm。线性流和非线性流情况两者模式解相差不大，振幅，相位各项指数都相近, 说明流的线性与否对结果影响不大。 第三类试验，不仅在开边界使用ORB条件，在模式内部也使用ORB条件，比较了内部优化和不优化情况与解析解的偏差。结果显示，选用不同的k,振幅都能得到很好的模拟，而相位相对较差。另外，在内部优化的情况下，考虑不同的k的模式解， 我们选用了与解析解相近的6个模式解的k,结果显示，不同的k,振幅都能得到很好的模拟，而相位较差。 总之，在开边界使用ORB条件比使用RB条件好，振幅相位都有大幅度改进，在加入出入流情况下，流的大小对模拟结果有影响，但线形流和非线性流差别不大。内部优化的结果显示，模式采用不同的k都能很好模拟解析解的振幅。

Effects of body size and water temperature on food consumption and growth in the sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicus (Selenka) with special reference to aestivation

To investigate the effects of body size and water temperature on feeding and growth in the sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicus (Selenka), the maximum rate of food consumption in terms of energy (C-maxe; J day(-1)) and the specific growth rate in terms of energy (SGRe; % day(-1)) in animals of three body sizes (mean +/- SE) - large (134.0 +/- 3.5 g), medium (73.6 +/- 2.2 g) and small (36.5 +/- 1.2 g) - were determined at water temperatures of 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 degrees C. Maximum rate of food consumption in terms of energy increased and SGRe decreased with increasing body weight at 10, 15 and 20 degrees C. This trend, however, was not apparent at 25 and 30 degrees C, which could be influenced by aestivation. High water temperatures (above 20 degrees C) were disadvantageous to feeding and growth of this animal; SGRe of A. japonicus during aestivation was negative. The optimum temperatures for food consumption and for growth were similar and were between 14 and 15 degrees C, and body size seemed to have a slight effect on the optimal temperature for food consumption or growth. Because aestivation of A. japonicus was temperature dependent, the present paper also documented the threshold temperatures to aestivation as indicated by feeding cessation. Deduced from daily food consumption of individuals, the threshold temperature to aestivation for large and medium animals (73.3-139.3 g) was 24.5-25.5 degrees C, while that for small animals (28.9-40.7 g) was between 25.5 and 30.5 degrees C. These values are higher than previous reports; differences in sign of aestivation, experimental condition and dwelling district of test animals could be the reasons.

Effect of water temperature on digestive enzyme activity and gut mass in sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicus (Selenka), with special reference to aestivation

The effect of water temperature on gut mass and digestive enzyme activity in sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicus, including relative gut mass (RGM), amylase, lipase, pepsin and trypsin activities were studied at temperatures of 7, 14, 21, and 28A degrees C over a period of 40 days. Results show that RGM significantly decreased after 40 days at 21A degrees C and markedly decreased over the whole experiment period at 28A degrees C; however, no significant effect of duration was observed at 7 or 14A degrees C. At 14A degrees C, trypsin activity significantly decreased over 10 and 20 days, then increased; amylase and trypsin activity significantly decreased after 40 days at 28A degrees C. However, no significant effect of duration was found on amylase, pepsin or trypsin activities in the other temperature treatment groups. At 28A degrees C, lipase activity peaked in 20 days and then markedly decreased to a minimum at the end of the experiment. On the other hand, pepsin activity at 28A degrees C continuously increased over the whole experimental period. Principle component analysis showed that sea cucumbers on day 40 in the 21A degrees C group and in the previous 20 days in the 28A degrees C group were in the prophase of aestivation. At 28A degrees C, sea cucumbers aestivated at 30-40 days after the start of the experiment. It is concluded that the effect of temperature on the digestion of A. japonicus is comparatively weak within a specific range of water temperatures and aestivation behavior is accompanied by significant changes in RGM and digestive enzyme activities.

Fourier有限差分法深度偏移与正演模拟

With the development of seismic exploration, the target becomes more and more complex, which leads to a higher demand for the accuracy and efficiency in 3D exploration. Fourier finite-difference (FFD) method is one of the most valuable methods in complex structure exploration, which keeps the ability of finite-differenc method in dealing with laterally varing media and inherits the predominance of the phase-screen method in stablility and efficiency. In this thesis, the accuracy of the FFD operator is highly improved by using simulated annealing algorithm. This method takes the extrapolation step and band width into account, which is more suitable to various band width and discrete scale than the commonely-used optimized method based on velocity contrast alone. In this thesis, the FFD method is extended to viscoacoustic modeling. Based on one-way wave equation, the presented method is implemented in frequency domain; thus, it is more efficient than two-way methods, and is more convenient than time domain methods in handling attenuation and dispersion effects. The proposed method can handle large velocity contrast and has a high efficiency, which is helpful to further research on earth absorption and seismic resolution. Starting from the frequency dispersion of the acoustic VTI wave equation, this thesis extends the FFD migration method to the acoustic VTI media. Compared with the convetional FFD method, the presented method has a similar computational efficiency, and keeps the abilities of dealing with large velocity contrasts and steep dips. The numerical experiments based on the SEG salt model show that the presented method is a practical migration method for complex acoustical VTI media, because it can handle both large velocity contrasts and large anisotropy variations, and its accuracy is relatively high even in strong anisotropic media. In 3D case, the two-way splitting technique of FFD operator causes artificial azimuthal anisotropy. These artifacts become apparent with increasing dip angles and velocity contrasts, which prevent the application of the FFD method in 3D complex media. The current methods proposed to reduce the azimuthal anisotropy significantly increase the computational cost. In this thesis, the alternating-direction-implicit plus interpolation scheme is incorporated into the 3D FFD method to reduce the azimuthal anisotropy. By subtly utilizing the Fourier based scheme of the FFD method, the improved fast algorithm takes approximately no extra computation time. The resulting operator keeps both the accuracy and the efficiency of the FFD method, which is helpful to the inhancements of both the accuracy and the efficiency for prestack depth migration. The general comparison is presented between the FFD operator and the generalized-screen operator, which is valuable to choose the suitable method in practice. The percentage relative error curves and migration impulse responses show that the generalized-screen operator is much sensiutive to the velocity contrasts than the FFD operator. The FFD operator can handle various velocity contrasts, while the generalized-screen operator can only handle some range of the velocity contrasts. Both in large and weak velocity contrasts, the higher order term of the generalized-screen operator has little effect on improving accuracy. The FFD operator is more suitable to large velocity contrasts, while the generalized-screen operator is more suitable to middle velocity contrasts. Both the one-way implicit finite-difference migration and the two-way explicit finite-differenc modeling have been implemented, and then they are compared with the corresponding FFD methods respectively. This work gives a reference to the choosen of proper method. The FFD migration is illustrated to be more attractive in accuracy, efficiency and frequency dispertion than the widely-used implicit finite-difference migration. The FFD modeling can handle relatively coarse grids than the commonly-used explicit finite-differenc modeling, thus it is much faster in 3D modeling, especially for large-scale complex media.