Decisionmaking in a glass house : mass media, public opinion, and American and European foreign policy in the 21st century

"Decisionmaking in a Glass House: Mass Media, Public Opinion, and American and European Foreign Policy in the 21st Century" edited by Brigitte L. Nacos, Robert Y. Shapiro and Pierangelo Isernia is reviewed.

A new method of evaluating the fineness and residual gum content of hemp fibres

The demand for eco-friendly apparel and technical textiles has led to a resurgence of interests in bast fibres such as hemp. The lack of fast and objective evaluation of the quality attributes of bast fibres has been a major barrier to the advancement of the bast fibre industry. One of the most important quality attributes of a fibre is its fineness. For bast fibres, the fibre fineness measurement can also reflect the degree of fibre separation during retting or degumming. The traditional method of evaluating the fineness and residual gum content of bast fibres is a very tedious process. In this paper, degummed hemp fibres have been measured for fineness on an Optical Fibre Diameter Analyser (OFDA), and the results have been co-related with the residual gum content in the fibre samples. Since hemp fibres do not have a circular cross section, it is the width of the fibre that gets measured by the OFDA instrument, and this width has been used as an indication of the fibre fineness in this paper. The findings from this study suggest that the optical method can provide a fast and objective way of evaluating the fineness of hemp fibres, and that there is a good correlation between the fibre „width‟ measurement and the residual gum content.

The softness of alpaca fibres

Softness is a unique selling point for luxury fibres such as alpaca. However, there is very little objective data on the softness of animal fibres. This study first establishes that the resistance to compression (RtC) behaviour of alpaca and wool fibres is quite different, and that the RtC method can not be used to examine the softness of different animal fibres. It then reports a new method for evaluating fibre softness. This method is based on the measurement of the force required to pull a fibre bundle through a series of parallel pins. This force, reflecting the combined effect of fibre surface properties, fibre diameter and rigidity, can achieve reasonable discrimination between fibres of varying levels of softness, such as alpaca and wool. Mechanisms responsible for the superior softness of alpaca fibres are discussed also.

Determining residual gum content of bast fibres

The measurement of fibre quality in bast fibres is related to the amount of gum (lignin, hemicellulose, wax and pectin) left in the fibre after the retting process. Large amounts of gums present represent poor separation of fibre. Efficiency of retting can be monitored by measuring the residual gum content of the retted fibre.

This paper investigated the use of ultrasonic vibration combined with chemical retting as a pre-treatment to improve accuracy of traditional residual gum content test. Work was conducted on chemically retted hemp fibre. Pre-treatment conditions were analysed by determining the best chemical combination, chemical concentration and treatment time. Fibres were examined for successful separation using optical microscopy and optical fibre diameter analysis (OFDA). The work proposed a new method for determining the residual gum content of hemp fibre.

Changes in fibre curvature during the processing of wool and alpaca fibres and their blends

This paper studied the wool and alpaca fibre curvature and its variation during the fibre processing. It revealed the effect of wool fibre crimp on the cohesion properties of alpaca and wool blended slivers. Different wool and alpaca tops were blended via a number of gillings, and the role of wool fibre curvature in alpaca/wool blend processing has also been investigated. During the wool fibre processing, fibre curvature tended to diminish gradually from scoured fibre to top. Blending wool with alpaca fibres improved the cohesion properties of the blended sliver, compared with pure alpaca slivers. For a high ratio of alpaca component in the blend, a high-crimp wool should be used to achieve good sliver cohesion.

High technology nanocomposite fibres: Development of melt spun semi-aromatic polyamide nanocomposite fibres

Novel polyamide nanocomposite fibres have been produced by compounding semi aromatic Poly (m-xylene adipamide) (MXD6) and organophilic Montmorillonite (MMT). Partially orientated fibres (POF) of MXD6 nanocomposite were obtained by melt spinning on a multifilament fibre extrusion system at three different speeds. The effect of the drawing velocity
on the mechanical properties of the filaments has been determined. Tensile measurements indicated that the introduction of the nanoparticies by melt intercalation improves the tenacity and toughness of the resulting polyamide fibres. The microstructure of the nanocomposites was examined by X-ray diffraction and Transmission Electron Microscope (TEM) and shown to
be an exfoliated disordered structure. The thermal stability of MXD6 nanocomposites was analysed by thermo gravimetric analysis (TGA) suggesting stabilisation of the clay and the polymer systems above 450°C.

A comparative study of the mechanical properties of wool and alpaca fibres

This study reports the latest research into alpaca and wool fibres. In particular, those properties that have received little attention in research literature have been examined. They include single fibre abrasion and bending fatigue, single fibre tensile properties, as well as resistance to compression behaviour. These properties are important because they affect the softness and pilling propensity of these fibres and the resultant fabrics. Clean wool and alpaca fibres were used in this study. Fibre abrasion/bending fatigue measurements were carried out using a Textechno FIBRESTRESS instrument. The resistance to compression (RtC) tests were carried out according to Australian Standard AS3535-1988. The results indicate that wool and alpaca fibres behave quite differently, even though both fibre types are of animal origin. Wool fibre resistance to compression decreases as fibre diameter increases while the opposite appears to occur for alpaca fibres. For both wool and alpaca the number of abrasion/bending cycles at fibre break increases with an increase in fibre diameter, it takes longer to break the alpaca fibres. Reasons for these differences have been postulated based on differences in fibre surface and structure between alpaca and wool.