Strongly nonlinear long interfacial waves in uniform basic flows and their dispersion relationship

In this paper, long interfacial waves of finite amplitude in uniform basic flows are considered with the assumption that the aspect ratio between wavelength and water depth is small. A new model is derived using the velocities at arbitrary distances from the still water level as the velocity variables instead of the commonly used depth-averaged velocities. This significantly improves the dispersion properties and makes them applicable to a wider range of water depths. Since its derivation requires no assumption on wave amplitude, the model thus can be used to describe waves with arbitrary amplitude.

Second-order Stokes solutions for internal waves in three-layer density-stratified fluid

In this paper, internal waves in three-layer stratified fluid are investigated by using a perturbation method, and the second-order asymptotic solutions of the velocity potentials and the second-order Stokes solutions of the associated elevations of the interfacial waves are presented based on the small amplitude wave theory. As expected, the first-order solutions are consistent with ordinary linear theoretical results, and the second-order solutions describe the second-order modification on the linear theory and the interactions between the two interfacial waves. Both the first-order and second-order solutions derived depend on the depths and densities of the three-layer fluid. It is also noted that the solutions obtained from the present work include the theoretical results derived by Umeyama as special cases.

Second-order solutions for random interfacial waves under steady uniform currents

In the present research, the study of Song (2004) for random interfacial waves in two-layer fluid is extended to the case of fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds. The equations describing the random displacements of the density interface and the associated velocity potentials in two-layer fluid are solved to the second order, and the wave-wave interactions of the wave components and the interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the extended solutions include those obtained by Song (2004) as one special case where the steady uniform currents of the two fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions reduce to those derived by Sharma and Dean (1979) for random surface waves if the density of the upper fluid and the current of the lower fluid are both taken as zero.

Statistical distribution of depth-integrated local horizontal momentum for second-order random ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth- integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.

Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram-Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram-Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

NONLINEAR GRAVITY-WAVES IN DEEP-WATER

In consideration of the problem on the boundary condition of nonlinear free water wave, coordinate transform is used to handle the free boundary. Supposing the solution form be the traveling wave, the ordinary differential equations of the one-order autonomous system with two variables are caused, then expanding the nonlinear terms at the equilibrium point with the Taylor expansion, we obtained the solution to traveling wave. The linear approximate equation near the equilibrium point is the small amplitude wave. A new nonlinear periodic traveling wave and nonlinear dispersion relation are shown when expanding to the second-order terms. A conclusion that the expansion of dispersion relation does not contain any odd-power terms of wave steepness and because of the nonlinear effort an oscillate structure is produced in the vertical direction is drawn.

Second-order solutions for random interfacial waves in N-layer density-stratified fluid with steady uniform currents

In the present paper, the random inter facial waves in N-layer density-stratified fluids moving at different steady uniform speeds are researched by using an expansion technique, and the second-order a symptotic solutions of the random displacements of the density interfaces and the associated velocity potentials in N-layer fluid are presented based on the small amplitude wave theory. The obtained results indicate that the wave-wave second-order nonlinear interactions of the wave components and the second-order nonlinear interactions between the waves and currents are described. As expected, the solutions include those derived by Chen (2006) as a special case where the steady uniform currents of the N-layer fluids are taken as zero, and the solutions also reduce to those obtained by Song (2005) for second-order solutions for random interfacial waves with steady uniform currents if N=2.

Depth inversion in coastal water based on SAR image of waves

Wave-number spectrum technique is proposed to retrieve coastal water depths by means of Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) image of waves. Based on the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, the wavelength changes of a surface wave over varying water depths can be derived from SAR. Approaching the analysis of SAR images of waves and using the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, this indirect technique of remote sensing bathymetry has been applied to a coastal region of Xiapu in Fujian Province, China. Results show that this technique is suitable for the coastal waters especially for the near-shore regions with variable water depths.

Numerical Simulation of Waves Generated by Seafloor Movements

Waves generated by vertical seafloor movements are simulated by use of a fully nonlinear two-dimensional numerical wave tank. In the source region, the seafloor lifts to a designated height by a generation function. The numerical tests show that file linear theory is only valid for estimating the wave behaviors induced by the seafloor movements with a small amplitude, and the fully nonlinear numerical model should be adopted in the simulation of the wave generation by the large amplitude seafloor movements. Without the background surface waves, many numerical tests on the stable maximum elevations eta(max)(0) are carried out by both the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. The results of two models are compared and analyzed. For the fully nonlinear model, the influences of the amplitudes and the horizontal lengths on eta(max)(0) are stronger than that of the characteristic duration times. Furthermore, results reveal that there are significant differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. When the influences of the background surface waves are considered, the corresponding numerical analyses reveal that with the fully nonlinear model the eta(max)(0) near-linearly varies with the wave amplitudes of the surface waves, and the eta(max)(0) has significant dependences on the wave lengths and the wave phases of the surface waves. In addition, the differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model are still obvious, aid these differences are significantly affected by The wave parameters of the background surface waves, such as the wave amplitude, the wave length and the wave phase.

Rossby waves with linear topography in barotropic fluids

Rossby waves are the most important waves in the atmosphere and ocean, and are parts of a large-scale system in fluid. The theory and observation show that, they satisfy quasi-geostrophic and quasi-static equilibrium approximations. In this paper, solitary Rossby waves induced by linear topography in barotropic fluids with a shear flow are studied. In order to simplify the problem, the topography is taken as a linear function of latitude variable y, then employing a weakly nonlinear method and a perturbation method, a KdV (Korteweg-de Vries) equation describing evolution of the amplitude of solitary Rossby waves induced by linear topography is derived. The results show that the variation of linear topography can induce the solitary Rossby waves in barotropic fluids with a shear flow, and extend the classical geophysical theory of fluid dynamics.

Numerical simulation and validation of ocean waves measured by an Along-Track Interferometric Synthetic Aperture Radar

A new nonlinear integral transform of ocean wave spectra into Along-Track Interferometric Synthetic Aperture Radar (ATI-SAR) image spectra is described. ATI-SAR phase image spectra are calculated for various sea states and radar configurations based on the nonlinear integral transform. The numerical simulations show that the slant range to velocity ratio (R/V), significant wave height to ocean wavelength ratio (H-s/lambda), the baseline (2B) and incident angle (theta) affect ATI-SAR imaging. The ATI-SAR imaging theory is validated by means of Two X-band, HH-polarized ATI-SAR phase images of ocean waves and eight C-band, HH-polarized ATI-SAR phase image spectra of ocean waves. It is shown that ATI-SAR phase image spectra are in agreement with those calculated by forward mapping in situ directional wave spectra collected simultaneously with available ATI-SAR observations. ATI-SAR spectral correlation coefficients between observed and simulated are greater than 0.6 and are not sensitive to the degree of nonlinearity. However, the ATI-SAR phase image spectral turns towards the range direction, even if the real ocean wave direction is 30 degrees. It is also shown that the ATI-SAR imaging mechanism is significantly affected by the degree of velocity bunching nonlinearity, especially for high values of R/V and H-s/lambda.

Effects of winds, tides and storm surges on ocean surface waves in the Sea of Japan

Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyo, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions.

Characteristics of nonlinear internal waves observed in the northern South China Sea

The South China Sea (SCS) is one of the most active areas of internal waves. We undertook a program of physical oceanography in the northern South China Sea from June to July of 2009, and conducted a 1-day observation from 15:40 of June 24 to 16:40 of June 25 using a chain of instruments, including temperature sensors, pressure sensors and temperature-pressure meters at a site (117.5A degrees E, 21A degrees N) northeast of the Dongsha Islands. We measured fluctuating tidal and subtidal properties with the thermistor-chain and a ship-mounted Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler, and observed a large-amplitude nonlinear internal wave passing the site followed by a number of small ones. To further investigate this phenomenon, we collected the tidal constituents from the TPXO7.1 dataset to evaluate the tidal characteristics at and around the recording site, from which we knew that the amplitude of the nonlinear internal wave was about 120 m and the period about 20 min. The horizontal and vertical velocities induced by the soliton were approximately 2 m/s and 0.5 m/s, respectively. This soliton occurred 2-3 days after a spring tide.