Conceptual fashion : design, practice and process

While Conceptual fashion design practices have been a pervasive influence in fashion since the early 1980s, there is little academic analysis that might explain how they are distinct from conventional fashion design practices. In addition, fashion practitioners have not historically contributed to fashion research. As a result, contemporary fashion practitioners have difficulty setting critical contexts and expanding their creative work as there is little relevant literature available from practitioner perspectives. This project uses practice-led research to develop a discourse for understanding Conceptual fashion design process and how it relates to more conventional fashion design practices. In this exegesis I use Conceptual art as a lens to expand understandings of Conceptual fashion and my own creative practice. This analysis demonstrates that there are valuable connections to be drawn between Conceptual art and Conceptual fashion practice. In particular, these connections reveal the differences between the way Conceptual and more conventional fashion designers relate to the conceptual and the visual in their design process. This exploration demonstrates that while fashion is a visual field, Conceptual fashion designers produce a more ‘intellectual’ type of fashion that uses the visual to communicate ideas that question the nature of fashion. I explore the relevance of these ideas through application and experimentation in my creative practice projects by drawing from systems and rules identified in the work of early Conceptual artists and contemporary Conceptual fashion designers.

From strategic design to design integration

Within a growing awareness of design as central to the strategic success and the sustained competitive advantage of firms, this paper examines how companies pursue design driven innovation (Verganti, 2008, 2009) and respond to design led innovation initiatives (Matthews & Bucolo 2013). Specifically, this paper reports the findings of a collaborative research project where CEO sponsored senior managers from five multi-national organisations, met regularly over a twelve-month period, to discuss their progress on applying a design led approach in their firms. This longitudinal research project traced the process and progress of change instigated by the senior management representatives, as well as the deeper investigation of the barriers and challenges to re-frame design more strategically in their organisation. Data were collected through workshops and interviews throughout the twelve-month period, regarding the firms’ journeys and also the barriers and challenges firms faced in order to become design led. The findings present a novel set of implications for both designers and management scholars. This paper seeks to contribute to research and practice by investigating the processes and outcomes of a design led innovation program and to propose implications for practice for designers and management.

The role of HRM practices in building intellectual capital in knowledge-based teams

In this paper, we investigate the ways HRM systems support development of intellectual capital in teams in three case studies of knowledge-intensive firms (KIFs) in Denmark. By focusing on team composition and structure, findings build on the rapidly growing body of literature on HRM’s role in supporting intellectual capital development. Specifically, we make a theoretical contribution to this literature by identifying three distinct ways KIFs develop intellectual capital: 1) through HRM development systems that build relationship-centric team-based intellectual capital by targeting development of social capital; 2) through HRM employee relations systems that build human-centric team based intellectual capital by targeting human capital; 3) through a balanced approach to HRM that builds polycentric team-based intellectual capital through focusing on all aspects of intellectual capital. The findings also have managerial implications regarding the need to align team composition and structure, HRM systems, and intellectual capital focus to support development of team-based intellectual capital.

Pedagogy and community engagement in environmental design courses

This article describes an evaluation of student experiences in environmental design courses with a community engagement focus. It aims to identify pedagogical approaches that minimize obstacles faced by students while maximizing learning opportunities. Focus groups composed of undergraduate students in seven classes generated three major findings: (1) learning how to effectively engage with community partners is one of the most beneficial challenges of this type of course; (2) logistical hurdles and course characteristics that limited students’ ability to connect with the community partners or synthesize the social, emotional, technical, and theoretical aspects of the course were perceived as learning obstacles; and (3) social and emotional connections with community partners are the most educationally significant part of the experience for students. The conclusion discusses recommendations for how environmental design instructors can take advantage of the unique social and emotional connections with community partners that facilitated community engagement can foster, while limiting the learning obstacles that students may experience. Areas for future research

Design LED innovation to rejuvenate local food systems and healthy communities : an emerging research agenda

Food Sovereignty (food freedom) is about empowering people to develop their own local food system. Food Sovereignty challenges designers to enable people to innovate the local food system, rather than having a food system which is dictated by corporate interests and failed business ethics. Communities are realising the potential for design to assist in the innovation process, and add strategic value to potentially localise the food system. Design Led Innovation (DLI) offers a strategic framework to address large-scale cultural, systemic and economic changes. The DLI approach empowers communities to take organised action to achieve a healthy, prosperous and happy way of life. DLI can assist with business models in the business world and it is evident this approach can assist with creating social change too. This paper presents on an emerging research agenda aimed to assist designer’s focus from individuals and systems to communities and urban problems. This paper also presents the research proposition that DLI and service design coupled with social entrepreneurial ventures such as local food projects and creative community inventions, have the potential to enable social innovation for healthy and happy communities.

Selecting rainfall events for effective Water Sensitive Urban Design (WSUD) implementation

The current approach for protecting the receiving water environment from urban stormwater pollution is the adoption of structural measures commonly referred to as Water Sensitive Urban Design (WSUD). The treatment efficiency of WSUD measures closely depends on the design of the specific treatment units. As stormwater quality can be influenced by rainfall characteristics, the selection of appropriate rainfall events for treatment design is essential to ensure the effectiveness of WSUD systems. Based on extensive field investigation of four urban residential catchments and computer modelling, this paper details a technically robust approach for the selection of rainfall events for stormwater treatment design using a three-component model. The modelling outcomes indicate that selecting smaller average recurrence interval (ARI) events with high intensity-short duration as the threshold for the treatment system design is the most feasible since these events cumulatively generate a major portion of the annual pollutant load compared to the other types of rainfall events, despite producing a relatively smaller runoff volume. This implies that designs based on small and more frequent rainfall events rather than larger rainfall events would be appropriate in the context of efficiency in treatment performance, cost-effectiveness and possible savings in land area needed.

Design of a gust-attenuation controller for landing operations of Unmanned Autonomous Helicopters

This paper presents an innovative and practical approach to controlling heave motion in the presence of acute stochastic atmospheric disturbances during landing operations of an Unmanned Autonomous Helicopter (UAH). A heave motion model of an UAH is constructed for the purpose of capturing dynamic variations of thrust due to horizontal wind gusts. Additionally, through construction of an effective observer to estimate magnitudes of random gusts, a promising and feasible feedback-feedforward PD controller is developed, based on available measurements from onboard equipment. The controller dynamically and synchronously compensates for aerodynamic variations of heave motion resulting from gust influence, to increase the disturbance-attenuation ability of the UAH in a windy environment. Simulation results justify the reliability and efficiency of the suggested gust observer to estimate gust levels when applied to the heave motion model of a small unmanned helicopter, and verify suitability of the recommended control strategy to realistic environmental conditions.

Natural and engineered plasmin inhibitors : applications and design strategies

Plasmin is the primary enzyme responsible for dissolution of fibrin in the circulatory system. Plasminogen, the zymogen of plasmin is expressed ubiquitously in the human body [1], with the predominant source being the liver [2, 3]. Plasminogen is produced as an 810 amino acid protein with a 19 amino acid leader peptide, which is cleaved during secretion to produce the mature 791 amino acid one-chain zymogen. This is converted to plasmin by cleavage of the Arg561 - Val562 scissile bond [4], resulting in an active protease consisting of two disulfide linked chains. The amino-terminal heavy chain (residues Glu1-Arg561) is comprised of a plasminogen/apple/nematode (PAN) domain [5] and five kringle domains of approximately equal size [6] while the light chain (residues Val562-Asn791) contains a serine protease domain homologous to trypsin with a catalytic triad comprising His603, Asp646 and Ser741 [7]. Both plasmin and plasminogen occur in two forms, full length and a Lys77-Lys78 activated variant produced through self catalysis (Figure 1). The former exists in a tight conformation through binding of Lys50 and/or Lys62 to kringle domain 5 [8, 9] while Lys78-plasminogen assumes a more relaxed conformation rendering it more susceptible to plasmin conversion [10, 11].