Hadleigh Castle, The Mouth of the Thames--Morning after a Stormy Night

John Constable; 3 ft. 11 63/64 in.x 5 ft. 4 49/64 in.; oil on canvas

Sarah Campbell

Joshua Reynolds; 4 ft. 2 15/64 in.x 3 ft. 4 in.; oil on canvas

Self-Portrait

Joshua Reynolds; 2 ft. 2 in.x 1 ft. 6 47/64 in.; oil on canvas

Calculating a yearly limit depth to the active beach profile /

Issued September 1977.

Transport of dredged sediment placed in the nearshore zone--Currituck sand-bypass study (phase I) /

New dredge-disposal techniques may serve the dual role of aiding sand by-passing across coastal inlets, and beach nourishment, provided the dredged sediments placed seaward of the surf zone move shoreward into that zone. During the summer of 1976, 26,750 cubic meters of relatively coarse sediment was dredged from New River Inlet, North Carolina, moved down coast by a split-hull barge, and placed in a 215-meter coastal reach between the 2- and 4-meter depth contours. Bathymetric changes on the disposal piles and in the adjacent beach and nearshore area were studied for a 13-week period (August to November 1976) to determine the modification of the surrounding beach and nearshore profile, and the net transport direction of the disposal sediment. The sediment piles initially created a local shoal zone with minimum depths of 0.6 meter. Disposal sediment was coarser (Mn = 0.49 millimeter) than the native sand at the disposal site (Mn = 0.14 millimeter) and coarser than the composite mean grain size of the entire profile (Mn = 0.21 millimeter). Shoaling and breaking waves caused rapid erosion of the pile tops and a gradual coalescing of the piles to form a disposal bar located seaward (= 90 meters) of a naturally occurring surf zone bar. As the disposal bar relief was reduced, the disposal bar-associated breaker zone was restricted to low tide times or periods of high wave conditions.

Sampling variation in sandy beach littoral and nearshore meiofauna and macrofauna /

"September 1976."

Coastal changes, eastern Lake Michigan, 1970-1973 /

"October 1976."

Sand ripple growth in an oscillatory-flow water tunnel /

The development of sand ripples in an oscillatory-flow water tunnel was observed in 104 laboratory experiments approximating conditions at the seabed under steady progressive surface waves. The period, T, and amplitude, a, of the water motion were varied over wide ranges. Three quartz sands were used, with mean grain diameters, D = 0.55, 0.21, and 0.18 millimeter. In 24 experiments, with the bed initially leveled, T was reduced until ripples appeared, and their development to final equilibrium form was observed without further change in T. The remaining 80 experiments investigated the response of previously established bed forms to changes in T or a or both. The ripple length, lambda, and height, eta, were measured from photos, except when bed forms were three dimensional.

Report.

Report of the director also issued in the Station's Bulletin no. 136, 142, 149, 162, 171, 176, 181, 192, 199, 207, 214, 221.

Frontier dust,

Mode of access: Internet.