Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f(w)=0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Discussion of "Hydrodynamic loading on river bridges" by Stefano Malavasi and Alberto Guadagnini

Abstract not available.

Wave-generated flow on coral reefs - an analysis for two-dimensional horizontal reef-tops with steep faces

Waves breaking on the seaward rim of a coral reef generate a flow of water from the exposed side of the reef to the sheltered side and/or to either channels through the reef-rim or lower sections of the latter. This wave-generated flow is driven by the water surface gradient resulting from the wave set-up created by the breaking waves. This paper reviews previous approaches to modelling wave-generated flows across coral reefs and discusses the influence of reef morphology and roughness upon these flows. Laboratory measurements upon a two-dimensional horizontal reef platform with a steep reef face provide the basis for extending a previous theoretical analysis for wave set-up on a reef in the absence of a flow [Gourlay, M.R., 1996b. Wave set-up on coral reefs. 2. Set-up on reefs with various profiles. Coastal Engineering 28, 1755] to include the interaction between a unidirectional flow and the wave set-up. The laboratory model results are then used to demonstrate that there are two basic reef-top flow regimes-reef-top control and reef-rim control. Using open channel flow theory, analytical relationships are derived for the reef-top current velocity in terms of the offreef wave conditions, the reef-top water depth and the physical characteristics of the reef-top topography. The wave set-up and wave-generated flow relationships are found to predict experimental values with reasonable accuracy in most cases. The analytical relationships are used to investigate wave-generated flows into a boat harbour channel on Heron Reef in the southern Great Barrier Reef. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Analytical solutions of linear finite- and small-strain one-dimensional consolidation

Analytical solutions are presented for linear finite-strain one-dimensional consolidation of initially unconsolidated soil layers with surcharge loading for both one- and two-way drainage. These solutions complement earlier solutions for initially unconsolidated soil layers without surcharge and initially normally consolidated soil layers with surcharge. Small-strain solutions for the consolidation of initially unconsolidated soil layers with surcharge loading are also presented, and the relationship between the earlier solutions for initially unconsolidated soil without surcharge and the corresponding small-strain solutions, which was not addressed in the earlier work, is clarified. The new solutions for initially unconsolidated soil with surcharge loading can be applied to the analysis of low stress consolidation tests and to the partial validation of numerical solutions of non-linear finite-strain consolidation. They also clarify a formerly perplexing aspect of finite-strain solution charts first noted in numerical solutions. Copyright (C) 2004 John Wiley Sons, Ltd.

Suctions, fracture energy, and plastic cracking of cement mortar and concrete

Plastic cracking of cement mortar and concrete is primarily attributable to desiccation by evaporation from unprotected surfaces. This causes high suctions (negative pressures) to develop in the pore water adjacent to these surfaces. Dissolved salts in the pore water can also contribute significantly to suctions. Quantitative expressions are available for all of the components of the total suction. The development of suctions over time is illustrated by the results of desiccation tests conducted on cement mortars, supplemented by data from the literature. It is shown that ambient conditions conducive to plastic cracking can arise almost anywhere, but that the extremely high suctions that develop in mature cement mortar and concrete do not imply that compression failures should occur A high value of fracture energy is derived from data from the desiccation tests that implies that plastic cracking is characterized by a significant zone of plastic straining or microcracking.

Hindered settling of sand grains

The sedimentation rate of sand grains in the hindered settling regime has been considered to assess particle shape effects. The behaviour of various particulate systems involving sand has been compared with the widely used Richardson-Zaki expression. The general form of the expression is found to hold, in as much as remaining as a suitable means to describe the hindered settling of irregular particles. The sedimentation exponent n in the Richardson-Zaki expression is found to be significantly larger for natural sand grains than for regular particles. The hindered settling effect is therefore greater, leading to lower concentration gradients than expected. The effect becomes more pronounced with increasing particle irregularity. At concentrations around 0.4, the hindered settling velocity of fine and medium natural sands reduces to about 70% of the value predicted using existing empirical expressions for n. Using appropriate expressions for the fluidization velocity and the clear water settling velocity, a simple method is discussed to evaluate the sedimentation exponent and to determine the hindered settling effect for sands of various shapes.

Atoll lagoon flushing forced by waves

Water level and current measurements from two virtually enclosed South Pacific atolls, Manihiki and Rakahanga, support a new lagoon flushing mechanism which is driven by waves and modulated by the ocean tide for virtually enclosed atolls. This is evident because the lagoon water level remains above the ocean at all tidal phases (i.e., ruling out tidal flushing) and because the average lagoon water level rises significantly during periods with large waves. Hence, we develop a model by which the lagoons are flushed by waves pumping of ocean water into the lagoon and gravity draining water from the lagoon over the reef rim. That is, the waves on the exposed side push water into the lagoon during most of the tidal cycle while water leaves the lagoon on the protected side for most of the tidal cycle. This wave-driven through flow flushing is shown to be more efficient than alternating tidal flushing with respect to water renewal. Improved water quality should therefore be sought through enhancement of the natural wave pumping rather than by blasting deep channels which would change the system to an alternating tide-driven one.

Numerical solutions of the sediment conservation law: A review and improved formulation for coastal morphological modelling

Numerical solutions of the sediment conservation law are reviewed in terms of their application to bed update schemes in coastal morphological models. It is demonstrated that inadequately formulated numerical techniques lead to the introduction of diffusion, dispersion and the bed elevation oscillations previously reported in the literature. Four different bed update schemes are then reviewed and tested against benchmark analytical solutions. These include a first order upwind scheme, two Lax-Wendroff schemes and a non-oscillating centred scheme (NOCS) recently applied to morphological modelling by Saint-Cast [Saint-Cast, F., 2002. Modelisation de la morphodynamique des corps sableux en milieu littoral (Modelling of coastal sand banks morphodynamics), University Bordeaux 1, Bordeaux, 245 pp.]. It is shown that NOCS limits and controls numerical errors while including all the sediment flux gradients that control morphological change. Further, no post solution filtering is required, which avoids difficulties with selecting filter strength. Finally, NOCS is compared to a recent Lax-Wendroff scheme with post-solution filtering for a longer term simulation of the morphological evolution around a trained river entrance. (C) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Application of a coupled ground-surface water flow model to simulate periodic groundwater flow influenced by a sloping boundary, capillarity and vertical flows

Theoretical developments as well as field and laboratory data have shown the influence of the capillary fringe on water table fluctuations to increase with the fluctuation frequency. The numerical solution of a full, partially saturated flow equation can be computationally expensive. In this paper, the influence of the capillary fringe on water table fluctuations is simplified through its parameterisation into the storage coefficient of a fully-saturated groundwater flow model using the complex effective porosity concept [Nielsen, P., Perrochet, P., 2000. Water table dynamics under capillary fringes: experiments and modelling. Advances in Water Resources 23 (1), 503-515; Nielsen, P., Perrochet, P., 2000. ERRATA: water table dynamics under capillary fringes: experiments and modelling (Advances in Water Resources 23 (2000) 503-515). Advances in Water Resources 23, 907-908]. The model is applied to sand flume observations of periodic water table fluctuations induced by simple harmonic forcing across a sloping boundary, analogous to many beach groundwater systems. While not providing information on the moisture distribution within the aquifer, this approach can reasonably predict the water table fluctuations in response to periodic forcing across a sloping boundary. Furthermore, he coupled ground-surface water model accurately predicts the extent of the seepage face formed at the sloping boundary. (C) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Sheet flow sediment transport under waves with acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming

The effect of acceleration skewness on sheet flow sediment transport rates (q) over bar (s) is analysed using new data which have acceleration skewness and superimposed currents but no boundary layer streaming. Sediment mobilizing forces due to drag and to acceleration (similar to pressure gradients) are weighted by cosine and sine, respectively, of the angle phi(.)(tau)phi(tau) = 0 thus corresponds to drag dominated sediment transport, (q) over bar (s)similar to vertical bar u(infinity)vertical bar u(infinity), while phi(tau) = 90 degrees corresponds to total domination by the pressure gradients, (q) over bar similar to du(infinity)/dt. Using the optimal angle, phi = 51 degrees based on that data, good agreement is subsequently found with data that have strong influence from boundary layer streaming. Good agreement is also maintained with the large body of U-tube data simulating sine waves with superimposed currents and second-order Stokes waves, all of which have zero acceleration skewness. The recommended model can be applied to irregular waves with arbitrary shape as long as the assumption negligible time lag between forcing and sediment transport rate is valid. With respect to irregular waves, the model is much easier to apply than the competing wave-by-wave models. Issues for further model developments are identified through a comprehensive data review.

Large scale experiments on gravel and mixed beaches: Experimental procedure, data documentation and initial results

This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions. The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols. (C) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Hydraulics of skimming flows on stepped chutes: The effects of inflow conditions?

Modern stepped spillways are typically designed for large discharge capacities corresponding to a skimming flow regime for which flow resistance is predominantly form drag. The writer demonstrates that the inflow conditions have some effect on the skimming flow properties. Boundary layer calculations show that the flow properties at inception of free-surface aeration are substantially different with pressurized intake. The re-analysis of experimental results highlights that the equivalent Darcy friction factor is f similar to 0.2 in average on uncontrolled stepped Chute and f similar to 0.1 on stepped chute with pressurized intake. A simple design chart is presented to estimate the residual flow velocity, and the agreement of the calculations with experimental results is deemed satisfactory for preliminary design.

Dam break wave of thixotropic fluid

Thixotropy is the characteristic of a fluid to form a gelled structure over time when it is not subjected to shearing, and to liquefy when agitated. Thixotropic fluids are commonly used in the construction industry (e.g., liquid concrete and drilling fluids), and related applications include some forms of mud flows and debris flows. This paper describes a basic study of dam break wave with thixotropic fluid. Theoretical considerations were developed based upon a kinematic wave approximation of the Saint-Venant equations down a prismatic sloping channel. A very simple thixotropic model, which predicts the basic theological trends of such fluids, was used. It describes the instantaneous state of fluid structure by a single parameter. The analytical solution of the basic flow motion and theology equations predicts three basic flow regimes depending upon the fluid properties and flow conditions, including the initial degree of jamming of the fluid (related to its time of restructuration at rest). These findings were successfully compared with systematic bentonite suspension experiments. The present work is the first theoretical analysis combining the basic principles of unsteady flow motion with a thixotropic fluid model and systematic laboratory experiments.