How do Chinese fashion designers become global fashion leaders? A new perspective on legitimisation in China’s fashion system

The term fashion system describes inter-relationships between production and consumption, illustrating how the production of fashion is a collective activity. For instance, Yuniya Kawamura (2011) notes systems for the production of fashion differ around the globe and are subject to constant change, and Jennifer Craik (1994, 6) draws attention to an ‘array of competing and intermeshing systems cutting across western and non-western cultures. In China, Shanghai’s nascent fashion system seeks to emulate the Eurocentric system of Fashion Weeks and industry support groups. It promises designers a platform for global competition, yet there are tensions from within. Interaction with a fashion system inevitably means becoming validated or legitimised. Legitimisation in turn depends upon gatekeepers who make aesthetic judgments about the status, quality, and cultural value of a designers work (Becker 2008). My paper offers a new perspective on legitimisation that is drawn mainly from my PhD research. I argue that some Chinese fashion designers are on the path to becoming global fashion designers because they have embraced a global aesthetic that resonates with the human condition, rather than the manufactured authenticity of a Eurocentric fashion system that perpetuates endless consumption. In this way, they are able to ‘self-legitimise’. I contend these designers are ‘designers for humans’, because they are able to look beyond the mythology of fashion brands, and the Eurocentric fashion system, where they explore the tensions of man and culture in their practice. Furthermore, their design ethos pursues beauty, truth and harmony in the Chinese philosophical sense, as well as incorporating financial return in a process that is still enacted through a fashion system. Accordingly, cultural tradition, heritage and modernity, while still valuable, have less impact on their practice.

Investigation into the bond between CFRP and steel tubes

CFRP material has been widely used to strengthen concrete structures. There is an increasing trend of using CFRP in strengthening steel structures. The bond between steel and CFRP is a key issue. Relatively less work has been done on the bond between CFRP and a curved surface which is often found in tubular structures. This paper reports a study on the bond between CFRP and steel tubes. A series of tensile tests were conducted with different bond lengths and number of layers. The types of adhesive and specimen preparation methods varied in the testing program. High modulus CFRP was used. Tests were carried out to measure the modulus and tensile strength of CFRP. Strain gages were mounted on different layers of CFRP. The stress distributions across the layers of the CFRP were established. Models were developed to estimate the maximum load for a given CFRP arrangement.

Crime, justice and social democracy : proceedings of the second international conference, 2013, volume 1

The refereed papers contained in this set of conference proceedings were presented at the 2nd International Conference on Crime, Justice and Social Democracy, hosted by the Crime and Justice Research Centre, Faculty of Law, QUT. The conference attracted an impressive list of internationally distinguished keynote and panel speakers from the United Kingdom, United States, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and this time Latin America, as well as high quality paper submissions.

Re-imagining youth justice

Persistent high levels of recidivism among young offenders (Luke and Lind 2002; Weatherburn et al. 2012) and the over‐representation of Indigenous young people (Cunneen and White 2011; Snowball 2008; Tauri 2012) have long been features of youth justice in Australia. Other problems – such as the increased rates of young people committing sex offences (Dwyer 2011; O’Brien 2010), increasing numbers of young people criminalised for new offences such as ‘sexting’ (Lee and McGovern 2013), and increasing numbers of young female offenders being drawn into youth justice systems (Carrington 2006; Carrington and Pereira 2009) – have emerged more recently. In this paper, we draw on the concept of ‘imaginary penalities’ (Carlen 2010) to argue these chronic problems are partly informed by ‘imaginary’ understandings of how and why young people (re)offend; reflect ‘imaginary’ understandings of what works to address young people’s (re)offending; and reflect ‘imaginary’ ideals about the primary purposes of the youth justice system. We acknowledge up front that answers to these questions require a great deal of new empirical research. This paper is only a beginning that sets out exactly what such an ambitious project might look like.

‘Time for a change in direction’ : using Indigenous knowledges as the driving force for change

We live in a time of change, of rapid change in some cases. Regardless of where we live as Indigenous peoples we see this, feel this, know this and understand this. Yet how do we manage this? At times Indigenous knowledge and Western knowledge are aligned and at other times diametrically opposed. This is also the case when examining how Indigenous knowledges are viewed, accessed and used even when politicians, governments and institutions are searching for answers and solutions for Indigenous people and for broader Australian society. Sometimes we have witnessed Indigenous knowledges too far down the back, at the bottom of the list and even disregarded. In some cases Indigenous peoples and our knowledges have been positioned as the victims of modernity. Imagine if we could draw on the strength of Indigenous knowledges as the driving force to change direction or for change. We can do this. This paper will explore some of the ways we might do this and bring about an improved society for all peoples.

A methodology for estimating exposure-controlled crash risk using traffic Police crash data

Exposure control or case-control methodologies are common techniques for estimating crash risks, however they require either observational data on control cases or exogenous exposure data, such as vehicle-kilometres travelled. This study proposes an alternative methodology for estimating crash risk of road user groups, whilst controlling for exposure under a variety of roadway, traffic and environmental factors by using readily available police-reported crash data. In particular, the proposed method employs a combination of a log-linear model and quasi-induced exposure technique to identify significant interactions among a range of roadway, environmental and traffic conditions to estimate associated crash risks. The proposed methodology is illustrated using a set of police-reported crash data from January 2004 to June 2009 on roadways in Queensland, Australia. Exposure-controlled crash risks of motorcyclists—involved in multi-vehicle crashes at intersections—were estimated under various combinations of variables like posted speed limit, intersection control type, intersection configuration, and lighting condition. Results show that the crash risk of motorcycles at three-legged intersections is high if the posted speed limits along the approaches are greater than 60 km/h. The crash risk at three-legged intersections is also high when they are unsignalized. Dark lighting conditions appear to increase the crash risk of motorcycles at signalized intersections, but the problem of night time conspicuity of motorcyclists at intersections is lessened on approaches with lower speed limits. This study demonstrates that this combined methodology is a promising tool for gaining new insights into the crash risks of road user groups, and is transferrable to other road users.

Governing young people’s drug use: Crime, harm and contemporary drug use practices

Since the nineteenth century, drug use has been variously understood as a problem of epidemiology, psychiatry, physiology, and criminality. Consequently drug research tends to be underpinned by assumptions of inevitable harm, and is often directed towards preventing drug use or solving problems. These constructions of the drug problem have generated a range of law enforcement responses, drug treatment technologies and rehabilitative programs that are intended to prevent drug related harm and resituate drug users in the realm of neo-liberal functional citizenship. This paper is based on empirical research of young people’s illicit drug use in Brisbane. The research rejects the idea of a pre-given drug problem, and seeks to understand how drugs have come to be defined as a problem. Using Michel Foucault’s conceptual framework of governmentality, the paper explores how the governance of illicit drugs, through law, public health and medicine, intersects with self-governance to shape young people’s drug use practices. It is argued that constructions of the drug problem shape what drug users believe about themselves and the ways in which they use drugs. From this perspective, drug use practices are ‘practices of the self’, formed through an interaction of the government of illicit drugs and the drug users own subjectivity.

Review Essay: John Pratt and Anna Eriksson (2013) 'Contrasts in Punishment: An Explanation of Anglophone Excess and Nordic Exceptionalism'

This review essay combines the comments made by David Brown, Russell Hogg and Mark Finanne at the Crime, Justice and Social Democracy: 2nd International Conference July 2013. It is followed by a rejoinder by the two authors John Pratt and Anna Eriksson.

Bearing Fault Diagnostics Using the Spectral Pattern Recognition

In the field of diagnostics of rolling element bearings, the development of sophisticated techniques, such as Spectral Kurtosis and 2nd Order Cyclostationarity, extended the capability of expert users to identify not only the presence, but also the location of the damage in the bearing. Most of the signal-analysis methods, as the ones previously mentioned, result in a spectrum-like diagram that presents line frequencies or peaks in the neighbourhood of some theoretical characteristic frequencies, in case of damage. These frequencies depend only on damage position, bearing geometry and rotational speed. The major improvement in this field would be the development of algorithms with high degree of automation. This paper aims at this important objective, by discussing for the first time how these peaks can draw away from the theoretical expected frequencies as a function of different working conditions, i.e. speed, torque and lubrication. After providing a brief description of the peak-patterns associated with each type of damage, this paper shows the typical magnitudes of the deviations from the theoretical expected frequencies. The last part of the study presents some remarks about increasing the reliability of the automatic algorithm. The research is based on experimental data obtained by using artificially damaged bearings installed in a gearbox.

Stored blood products augment inflammation in a two-event model of Transfusion Related Acute Lung Injury (TRALI)

Aim/Background TRALI is hypothesised to develop via a two-event mechanism involving both the patieint's underlying morbidity and blood product factors. The storage of cellular products has been implicated in cases of non-antibody mediated TRALI, however the pathophysiological mechanisms are undefined. We investigated blood product storage-related modulation of inflmmatory cells and medicators involved in TRALI. Methods In an in vitro mode, fresh human whole blood was mixed with culture media (control) or LPS as a 1st event and "transfused" with 10% (v/v) pooled supernatant (SN) from Day 1 (d1, n=75) or Day 42 (D42, n=113) packed red blood cells (PRBCs) as a 2nd event. Following 6hrs, culture SN was used to assess the overall inflammatory response (cytometric bead array) and a duplicate assay containing protein transport inhibitor was used to assess neutrophil- and monocyte-specific inflmamatory responses using multi-colour flow cytometry. Panels: IL-6, IL-8, IL-10, IL-12, IL-1, TNF, MCP-1, IP-10, MIP-1. One-way ANOVA 95% CI. Results In the absence of LPS, exposure to D1 or D42 PRBC-SN reduced monocyte expression of IL-6, IL-8 and Il-10. D42 PRBC-SN also reduced monocyte IP-10, and the overall IL-8 production was increased. In the presence of LPS, D1-PRBC SN only modified overall IP-10 levels which were reduced. However, cf LPS alone, the combination of LPS and D42 PRBC-SN resulted in increased neutrophil and monocyte productionof IL-1 and IL-8 as well as reduced monocyte TNF production. Additionally, LPS and D42 PRBC-SN resulted in overall inflmmatory changes: elevated IL-8,

Inelastic finite element analysis of composite beams on the basis of the plastic hinge approach

This paper emphasizes material nonlinear effects on composite beams with recourse to the plastic hinge method. Numerous combinations of steel and concrete sections form arbitrary composite sections. Secondly, the material properties of composite beams vary remarkably across its section from ductile steel to brittle concrete. Thirdly, concrete is weak in tension, so composite section changes are dependent on load distribution. To this end, the plastic zone approach is convenient for inelastic analysis of composite sections that can evaluate member resistance, including material nonlinearities, by routine numerical integration with respect to every fiber across the composite section. As a result, many researchers usually adopt the plastic zone approach for numerical inelastic analyses of composite structures. On the other hand, the plastic hinge method describes nonlinear material behaviour of an overall composite section integrally. Consequently, proper section properties for use in plastic hinge spring stiffness are required to represent the material behaviour across the arbitrary whole composite section. In view of numerical efficiency and convergence, the plastic hinge method is superior to the plastic zone method. Therefore, based on the plastic hinge approach, how to incorporate the material nonlinearities of the arbitrary composite section into the plastic hinge stiffness formulation becomes a prime objective of the present paper. The partial shear connection in this paper is by virtue of the effective flexural rigidity as AISC 1993 [American Institute of Steel Construction (AISC). Load and resistance factor design specifications. 2nd ed., Chicago; 1993]. Nonlinear behaviour of different kinds of composite beam is investigated in this paper, including two simply supported composite beams, a cantilever and a two span continuous composite beam.