Inspiration sources for Australian fast fashion design: Tapping into consumer desire

Purpose The research purpose was to identify both the inspiration sources used by fast fashion designers and ways the designers sort information from the sources during the product development process. Design/methodology/approach This is a qualitative study, drawing on semi-structured interviews conducted with the members of the in-house design teams of three Australian fast fashion companies. Findings Australian fast fashion designers rely on a combination of trend data, sales data, product analysis and travel for design development ideas. The designers then use the consensus and embodiment methods to interpret and synthesise information from those inspiration sources. Research limitations/implications The empirical data used in the analysis were limited by interviewing fashion designers within only three Australian companies. Originality/value This research augments knowledge of fast fashion product development, in particular designers’ methods and approaches to product design within a volatile and competitive market.

Discursos y prácticas queer en los movimientos feministas vascos

108 p.

Compulsory heterosexuality and Caribbean queer identities: an investigation of Achy Obejas's Memory mambo and Shani Mootoo's Valmiki's daughter

Esta dissertação pretende investigar de que forma idéias construídas socialmente impõem a heterossexualidade e afetam indivíduos não heterosexuais das ilhas Caribenhas, conforme ilustrado nos romances Memory Mambo, da Cubana-Americana Achy Obejas e Valmikis Daughters, da Trinitária-Canadense Shani Mootoo. Este trabalho se concentra na análise de políticas sexuais ligadas à homossexualidade tanto nas ilhas do Caribe quanto nos Estados Unidos da América. Em Memory Mambo, a protagonista Juani Casas deseja entender como sua condição de exilada cubana molda sua identidade sexual e como seu lesbianismo afeta seus relacionamentos familiares e amorosos. Reconstruindo sua história através de uma memória não confiável, Juani procura descobrir como sua sexualidade e sua nacionalidade estão ligadas, para que ela possa conciliar as duas. Em Valmikis Daughter, Viveka Krishnu e seu pai Valmiki Krishnu tentam esconder seus verdadeiros desejos por causa dos comportamentos supostamente corretos que foram designados tanto para homens quanto para mulheres em Trinidad, e mais especificamente na sociedade indo-caribenha. Pai e filha sofrem com a opressão e tentam não se tornarem vítimas de homofobia constante, ele escondendo sua sexualidade e ela deixando a ilha. Assim, através da representação literária, Obejas e Mootoo participam de uma discussão necessária sobre as consequencias das políticas sexuais na construção identitária de Caribenhos que vivem nas ilhas ou em destinos diaspóricos

Desire Amongst the Dodgems: Alain Platel and the Scene of Seduction

Kear, Adrian, 'Desire Amongst the Dodgems: Alain Platel and the Scene of Seduction', In: Contemporary Theatres in Europe: A Critical Companion, Joe Kelleher and Nicholas Ridout (eds), (New York: Routledge), pp.106-119, 2006 RAE2008

From the demise of theory to its resurgence. A retrospective on the postmodern turn to rethink the 'desire for narrative' and the sublime untimeliness of emancipation

Cultural Marxist Theory, commonly known as theory, enjoyed a moment of extraordinary success in the 1970s, when the works of leading post-war French philosophers were published in English. After relocating to Anglophone academia, however, theory disavowed its original concerns and lost its ambition to understand the world as a whole, becoming the play of heterogeneities associated with postcolonialism, multiculturalism and identity politics, commonly referred to as postmodern theory. This turn, which took place during a period that seemed to have spelt the death of Marxism, the 1990s, induced many of its supporters to engage in an ongoing funeral wake designating the merits of theory and dreaming its resurgence. According to them, had theory been resurrected in historical circumstances completely different from those which had led to its rise, it would have never reacquired the significance that had originally connoted it. This thesis demonstrates how theory has survived its demise and entirely regained its prominence in our socio-political context marked by the effects of the latest crisis of capitalism and by the global threat of terrorisms rooted in messianic eschatologies. In its current form theory does no longer need to show allegiance to certain intellectual stances or political groupings in order to produce important reformulations of the projects it once gave life to. Though less overtly radical and epistemologically bounded, theory remains a necessary form of enquiry justified by the political commitment which originated it in the first place. Its voice continues to speak to us about justice ‘where it is not yet, not yet there, where it is no longer’ (Derrida, 1993, XVIII).

Longing and (un)belonging: desire and displacement in the cinematic city

This paper explores the spatial conceptualisation of the themes of diaspora, displacement and desire in cinema, particularly in the work of Nuri Bilge Ceylan (Uzak) , Fatih Akin (Gegen Die Wand) and Michael Winterbottom (Code 46). All three directors explore the imagined cinematic city as a site of multiple (un)belongings and interrogate how notions of identity are displaced and disrupted by geopolitics, by the city and by cinema itself. Both Ceylan and Akin’s visions of Istanbul are haunted by Beyoglu, both as the site of Istanbul’s contemporary cultural regeneration and by unspoken histories repressed by the Republic’s offical rhetoric of Turkish identity. In contrast Akin and Winterbottom’s heterotopias of the hotel and the hospital provide possible metaphors for these dislocated global identities. This paper will engage with a series of questions. What is the (imagined) place created between the viewer and the screen, or is it a non-place? Do the identities/ memories created there produce a ‘third space’? This paper uses Winnicot, Soja and Bhabha to ask what that third space might be and its consequences for a contemporary global Turkish identity. If these films depict a (Freudian) screen memory of dislocated subjectivities then what is being suppressed and sutured?

Spank [at Queer in Europe, Exeter University, September 08]

Spank follows the journeys of two women as they reveal stories from private and public sources set apart by two centuries. It investigates notions of 'faction' and what is filtered out historically within a theme of female trauma and the body. [ABSTRACT BY THE AUTHOR]

(Un)veiling desire: re-defining relationships between gendered adult education subjects and adult education programmes

My underlying argument, in this paper, is that conceptualisations of power as a commodity, through which the 'disempowered-as-illiterate' subject moves towards becoming an 'empowered-as-literate' subject, forces constructs of identities into a powerful/powerless dichotomy which does not always do justice to diverse experiences. The claimed 'empowering' intentions of adult education programme and policy practice may, in reality, contribute to the dominance of restrictive disciplining and regulatory discursive practices. Moving away from emancipatory trajectories of adult education programmes that allege only liberation from domination, through 'literacy', can promise freedom points to another position of hope. Drawing on Foucauldian analysis, I explore sites of resistance as possibilities of transforming 'structures of understanding' at different levels. Officially validated and recognised transformations, in adult education programme as well as policy understandings, of the 'illiterate' subject may also hope to include choices in postures of autonomy (see Spivak 1996) made by programme participants in other 'fields' of socio-cultural practice linked to their material realities. Subsequently, 'empowerment' of the 'illiterate Indian village woman' cannot solely be imagined as a product of laws, policies and institutional discursive practices (see, for example, Gouws 2005; Rai 2003 on gender mainstreaming and Mosse 2005 on aid policy and practice). The 'illiterate Indian village woman' represented as a site of resistance, throughout this paper, displaces homogeneous representations of the 'illiterate' which situate her in the role of 'dependent' or 'victim', as failed attempts to rob her of her historical and political agency (Mohanty 1996). Through narrating other 'images' of refusal in my ethnographic vignettes, I hope to recognise different individuals' sense of agency, at all levels, as embedded in and evolving through forms of collective action that activate differences in order to develop possibilities and sustain hope for transforming historically rooted discursive practices of inequality. I provide ethnographic accounts of resisting 'literacy' programme participants, based in different villages in Bihar (Northern India), as accounts of resistance impacted on by notions of norms, translating and interpreting Others, networks and empowerment.

Hide and seek with rebels: tracing contemporary queer art in cracks and rips

This Article does not have an abstract.