Modern changes of tidal troughs among the radial sand ridges in northern Jiangsu coastal zone

Using satellite images taken on different dates, GIS analysis of aerial photos, bathymetric maps and other field survey data, tidal troughs and major sand ridges in the northern Jiangsu coastal area were contrasted. The results show that there have been three types of movement or migration of tidal trough in this area: (1) Periodic and restricted, this type of trough usually developed along the beaches with immobile gully head as a result of the artificial dams and the swing range increased from gully head to the low reaches, so they have been obviously impacted by human activity and have longer swing periods; (2) Periodic and actively, this kind of trough, which swung with a fast rate and moved periodically on sand ridges, were mainly controlled by the swings of the host tidal troughs and hydrodynamic forces upon tidal sand ridge and influenced slightly by human constructions; (3) Steadily and slowly, they are the main tidal troughs with large scale and a steady orientation in this area and have slow lateral movement. The differences in migration mode of tidal trough shift result in different rates of migration and impact upon tidal sand ridges. Lateral accumulation on current tidal trough and deposition on abandoned tidal troughs are the two types of sedimentation of the tidal sand ridges formation. The whole radial sand ridge was generally prone to division and retreat although sand ridges fluctuated by the analysis of changes in talwegs of tidal troughs and shorelines of sand ridges.

On the relationships between the radial tidal current field and the radial sand ridges in the southern Yellow Sea: a numerical simulation

The ori-in of the radial sand ridges (RSRs) in the southern Yellow Sea has been a controversial problem since they were discovered in the early 1960s. To resolve the problem, two key questions need to be answered: (1) was the radial tidal current field in the RSR area generated by the submarine topography, or (2) did it exist before the RSRs occurred? In this study, the M-2 tide and tidal currents in the RSR area were simulated with a two-dimensional tidal model using a flat bottom and a shelving slope topography, the results being then compared with the field data. It is demonstrated that the radial tidal current field in the southern Yellow Sea is independent of bottom topography, and may thus be the controlling factor generating the RSRs. The radial tidal current field probably existed before the RSRs were formed.

Genesis of Th-230 excess in basalts from mid-ocean ridges and ocean islands: Constraints from the global U-series isotope database and major and rare earth element geochemistry

Based on Th-230-U-238 disequilibrium and major element data from mid-ocean ridge basalts (MORBs) and ocean island basalts (OIBs), this study calculates mantle melting parameters, and thereby investigates the origin of Th-230 excess. (Th-230/U-238) in global MORBs shows a positive correlation with Fe-8, P (o), Na-8, and F-melt (Fe-8 and Na-8 are FeO and Na2O contents respectively after correction for crustal fractionation relative to MgO = 8 wt%, P (o)=pressure of initial melting and F (melt)=degree of melt), while Th-230 excess in OIBs has no obvious correlation with either initial mantle melting depth or the average degree of mantle melting. Furthermore, compared with the MORBs, higher (Th-230/U-238) in OIBs actually corresponds to a lower melting degree. This suggests that the Th-230 excess in MORBs is controlled by mantle melting conditions, while the Th-230 excess in OIBs is more likely related to the deep garnet control. The vast majority of calculated initial melting pressures of MORBs with excess Th-230 are between 1.0 and 2.5 GPa, which is consistent with the conclusion from experiments in recent years that D (U)> D (Th) for Al-clinopyroxene at pressures of > 1.0 GPa. The initial melting pressure of OIBs is 2.2-3.5 GPa (around the spinel-garnet transition zone), with their low excess Ra-226 compared to MORBs also suggesting a deeper mantle source. Accordingly, excess Th-230 in MORBs and OIBs may be formed respectively in the spinel and garnet stability field. In addition, there is no obvious correlation of K2O/TiO2 with (Th-230/U-238) and initial melting pressure (P (o)) of MORBs, so it is proposed that the melting depth producing excess Th-230 does not tap the spinel-garnet transition zone. OIBs and MORBs in both (Th-230/U-238) vs. K2O/TiO2 and (Th-230/U-238) vs. P (o) plots fall in two distinct areas, indicating that the mineral phases which dominate their excess Th-230 are different. Ce/Yb-Ce curves of fast and slow ridge MORBs are similar, while, in comparison, the Ce/Yb-Ce curve for OIBs shows more influence from garnet. The mechanisms generating excess Th-230 in MORBs and OIBs are significantly different, with formation of excess Th-230 in the garnet zone only being suitable for OIBs.

Sea surface height and transport stream function of the South China Sea from a variable-grid global ocean circulation model

A fine-grid model (1/6degrees) covering the South China Sea (SCS), East China Sea and Japan/East Sea, which is embedded into a coarse-grid (3degrees) global model, was established to study the SCS circulation. In the present paper, we report the model-produced monthly and annual mean transport stream functions and sea surface heights(SSH) and their anomalies of the SCS. Comparison to the TOPEX/Poseidon data shows that the model-produced monthly sea surface height anomalies (SSHA) are in good agreement with altimeter measurements. Based on the results, the circulation of the SCS, especially the upper layer circulation, is discussed. In the surface layer, the western Philippine Sea water intrudes into the SCS through the Luzon Strait in autumn, winter and spring, but not in summer. However, as far as the whole water column is concerned, the water intrudes into the SCS through the Luzon Strait all the year round. This indicates that in summer the water still intrudes into the SCS in the subsurface and intermediate layers. The area near the northern continental slope of the SCS is dominated by a cyclonic circulation all the year round. The SCS Southern Anticyclonic Gyre, SE Vietnam Off-Shore Current in summertime and SCS Southern Cyclonic Gyre in wintertime are reproduced reasonably. The difference between the monthly averaged SSH and SSHA is significant, indicating the importance of the mean SSH in the SCS circulation.

Comparison of nonlinear and linear PCA on surface wind, surface height, and SST in the South China Sea

We compared nonlinear principal component analysis (NLPCA) with linear principal component analysis (LPCA) with the data of sea surface wind anomalies (SWA), surface height anomalies (SSHA), and sea surface temperature anomalies (SSTA), taken in the South China Sea (SCS) between 1993 and 2003. The SCS monthly data for SWA, SSHA and SSTA (i.e., the anomalies with climatological seasonal cycle removed) were pre-filtered by LPCA, with only three leading modes retained. The first three modes of SWA, SSHA, and SSTA of LPCA explained 86%, 71%, and 94% of the total variance in the original data, respectively. Thus, the three associated time coefficient functions (TCFs) were used as the input data for NLPCA network. The NLPCA was made based on feed-forward neural network models. Compared with classical linear PCA, the first NLPCA mode could explain more variance than linear PCA for the above data. The nonlinearity of SWA and SSHA were stronger in most areas of the SCS. The first mode of the NLPCA on the SWA and SSHA accounted for 67.26% of the variance versus 54.7%, and 60.24% versus 50.43%, respectively for the first LPCA mode. Conversely, the nonlinear SSTA, localized in the northern SCS and southern continental shelf region, resulted in little improvement in the explanation of the variance for the first NLPCA.

Statistical distribution of nonlinear random wave height

A statistical model of random wave is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. A new nonlinear probability distribution function of wave height is presented. The results indicate that wave steepness not only could be a parameter of the distribution function of wave height but also could reflect the degree of wave height distribution deviation from the Rayleigh distribution. The new wave height distribution overcomes the problem of Rayleigh distribution that the prediction of big wave is overestimated and the general wave is underestimated. The prediction of small probability wave height value of new distribution is also smaller than that of Rayleigh distribution. Wave height data taken from East China Normal University are used to verify the new distribution. The results indicate that the new distribution fits the measurements much better than the Rayleigh distribution.

Nutrient enrichment effects on mangrove sediments from differing tree height zones in Bocas del Toro, Panama

Red mangrove (Rhizophora mangle L.) forests have distinct tree-height zones, with tall trees fringing the ocean and shorter trees in interior stands. A long-term nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) fertilization experiment in Almirante Bay, Bocas del Toro Province, Panama has shown that tree-height zonation is primarily related to nutrient limitation. This experiment was used to test the effects of in-situ nutrient additions and tree zonation on mangrove sediments. The sediments underlying the experimental R. mangle trees were sampled and N₂ fixation, ¹⁵N, chlorophyll a, percent N and P, and percent organic biomass were quantified. Both N and P additions significantly affected almost every parameter measured in both zones within this experiment. These results are likely to have implications for management since N and P inputs are predicted to increase throughout the tropics and subtropics worldwide.

Bivariate distribution modeling with tree diameter and height data

The Logit-Logistic (LL), Johnson's SB, and the Beta (GBD) are flexible four-parameter probability distribution models in terms of the (skewness-kurtosis) region covered, and each has been used for modeling tree diameter distributions in forest stands. This article compares bivariate forms of these models in terms of their adequacy in representing empirical diameter-height distributions from 102 sample plots. Four bivariate models are compared: SBB, the natural, well-known, and much-used bivariate generalization of SB; the bivariate distributions with LL, SB, and Beta as marginals, constructed using Plackett's method (LL-2P, etc.). All models are fitted using maximum likelihood, and their goodness-of-fits are compared using minus log-likelihood (equivalent to Akaike's Information Criterion, the AIC). The performance ranking in this case study was SBB, LL-2P, GBD-2P, and SB-2P

Relating sardine recruitment in the Northern Benguela to satellite-derived sea surface height using a neural network pattern recognition approach

Processes of enrichment, concentration and retention are thought to be important for the successful recruitment of small pelagic fish in upwelling areas, but are difficult to measure. In this study, a novel approach is used to examine the role of spatio-temporal oceanographic variability on recruitment success of the Northern Benguela sardine Sardinops sagax. This approach applies a neural network pattern recognition technique, called a self-organising map (SOM), to a seven-year time series of satellite-derived sea level data. The Northern Benguela is characterised by quasi-perennial upwelling of cold, nutrient-rich water and is influenced by intrusions of warm, nutrient-poor Angola Current water from the north. In this paper, these processes are categorised in terms of their influence on recruitment success through the key ocean triad mechanisms of enrichment, concentration and retention. Moderate upwelling is seen as favourable for recruitment, whereas strong upwelling, weak upwelling and Angola Current intrusion appear detrimental to recruitment success. The SOM was used to identify characteristic patterns from sea level difference data and these were interpreted with the aid of sea surface temperature data. We found that the major oceanographic processes of upwelling and Angola Current intrusion dominated these patterns, allowing them to be partitioned into those representing recruitment favourable conditions and those representing adverse conditions for recruitment. A marginally significant relationship was found between the index of sardine recruitment and the frequency of recruitment favourable conditions (r super(2) = 0.61, p = 0.068, n = 6). Because larvae are vulnerable to environmental influences for a period of at least 50 days after spawning, the SOM was then used to identify windows of persistent favourable conditions lasting longer than 50 days, termed recruitment favourable periods (RFPs). The occurrence of RFPs was compared with back-calculated spawning dates for each cohort. Finally, a comparison of RFPs with the time of spawning and the index of recruitment showed that in years where there were 50 or more days of favourable conditions following spawning, good recruitment followed (Mann-Whitney U-test: p = 0.064, n = 6). These results show the value of the SOM technique for describing spatio-temporal variability in oceanographic processes. Variability in these processes appears to be an important factor influencing recruitment in the Northern Benguela sardine, although the available data time series is currently too short to be conclusive. Nonetheless, the analysis of satellite data, using a neural network pattern-recognition approach, provides a useful framework for investigating fisheries recruitment problems.

Shore height and differentials between macrobenthic assemblages in vegetated and unvegetated areas of an intertidal sandflat

Intertidal macrobenthic faunal assemblages of a dual seagrass/callianassid-structured sandflat system were investigated in subtropical Moreton Bay, Queensland. Consistently across all 20 stations, the gastropod-dominated seagrass supported greater abundance (2.5×) and species richness (2×) than the amphipod-dominated sandflat. There was no evidence of along-shore or up-shore variation in the overall assemblage properties such as total abundance, species richness or diversity within either habitat type, except for variation in sandflat abundance between sites. But seagrass and sandflat assemblages both varied significantly in composition from site to site, and seagrass assemblage composition also varied with shore height. Shore height and site, however, only accounted for ≤41% of total variation. The two faunal assemblages showed a Bray–Curtis dissimilarity of 97.7% and within-habitat similarities of <20%. There was no consistency in distribution of greater diversity, dominance or evenness. No differential between any assemblage features in adjacent sandflat and seagrass samples changed with shore height, supporting hypotheses that such differentials are not maintained by predation. Macrofaunal species richness and diversity were closely coupled within sandflat stations but were uncoupled within seagrass ones, questioning the value of diversity as a comparative measure.

Wave height analysis from 10 years of observations in the Norwegian Sea

Large waves pose risks to ships, offshore structures, coastal infrastructure and ecosystems. This paper analyses 10 years of in-situ measurements of significant wave height (Hs) and maximum wave height (Hmax) from the ocean weather ship Polarfront in the Norwegian Sea. During the period 2000 to 2009, surface elevation was recorded every 0.59 s during sampling periods of 30 min. The Hmax observations scale linearly with Hs on average. A widely-used empirical Weibull distribution is found to estimate average values of Hmax/H s and Hmax better than a Rayleigh distribution, but tends to underestimate both for all but the smallest waves. In this paper we propose a modified Rayleigh distribution which compensates for the heterogeneity of the observed dataset: the distribution is fitted to the whole dataset and improves the estimate of the largest waves. Over the 10-year period, the Weibull distribution approximates the observed Hs and Hmax well, and an exponential function can be used to predict the probability distribution function of the ratio Hmax/Hs. However, the Weibull distribution tends to underestimate the occurrence of extremely large values of Hs and Hmax. The persistence of Hs and Hmax in winter is also examined. Wave fields with Hs > 12 m and Hmax > 16 m do not last longer than 3 h. Low-to-moderate wave heights that persist for more than 12 h dominate the relationship of the wave field with the winter NAO index over 2000–2009. In contrast, the inter-annual variability of wave fields with Hs > 5.5 m or Hmax > 8.5 m and wave fields persisting over ~2.5 days is not associated with the winter NAO index.

Drivers of euphausiid species abundance and numerical abundance in the Atlantic Ocean

Mid-ocean ridges are common features of the world’s oceans but there is a lack of understanding as to how their presence affects overlying pelagic biota. The Mid-Atlantic Ridge (MAR) is a dominant feature of the Atlantic Ocean. Here, we examined data on euphausiid distribution and abundance arising from several international research programmes and from the continuous plankton recorder. We used a generalized additive model (GAM) framework to explore spatial patterns of variability in euphausiid distribution on, and at either side of, the MAR from 60°N to 55°S in conjunction with variability in a suite of biological, physical and environmental parameters. Euphausiid species abundance peaked in mid-latitudes and was significantly higher on the ridge than in adjacent waters, but the ridge did not influence numerical abundance significantly. Sea surface temperature (SST) was the most important single factor influencing both euphausiid numerical abundance and species abundance. Increases in sea surface height variance, a proxy for mixing, increased the numerical abundance of euphausiids. GAM predictions of variability in species abundance as a function of SST and depth of the mixed layer were consistent with present theories, which suggest that pelagic niche availability is related to the thermal structure of the near surface water: more deeply-mixed water contained higher euphausiid biodiversity. In addition to exposing present distributional patterns, the GAM framework enables responses to potential future and past environmental variability including temperature change to be explored.

Prograded Holocene beach-ridges with superimposed dunes in north-east Ireland: mechanisms and timescales of fine and coarse beach sediment decoupling and deposition

Two depositional models to account for Holocene gravel-dominated beach ridges covered by dunes, occurring on the northern coast of Ireland, are considered in the light of infrared-stimulated luminescence ages of sand units within beach ridges, and 14C ages from organic horizons in dunes. A new chronostratigraphy obtained from prograded beach ridges with covering dunes at Murlough, north-east Ireland, supports a model of mesoscale alternating sediment decoupling (ASD) on the upper beach, rather than macroscale sequential sediment sourcing to account for prograded beach ridges and covering dunes. The ASD model specifies storm or fair-weather sand beach ridges forming at high-tide positions (on an annual basis at minimum), which acted as deflationary sources for landward foredune development. Only a limited number of such late-Holocene beach ridges survive in the observed prograded series. Beach ridges only survive when capped by storm-generated gravel beaches that are deposited on a mesoscale time spacing of 50–130 years. The morphodynamic shift from a dissipative beach face for dune formation to a reflective beach face for gravel capping appears to be controlled by the beach sand volume falling to a level where reflective conditions can prevail. Sediment volume entering the beach is thought to have fluctuated as a function of a forced regression associated with the falling sea level from the mid-Holocene highstand (ca. 6000 cal. yr BP) identified in north-east Ireland. The prograded beach ridges dated at ca. 3000 to 2000 cal. yr BP indicate that the Holocene highstand’s regressive phase may have lasted longer than previously specified.