Gulf of Mexico hindcast wave information /

"May 1989."

Prediction of nearshore wave transformation /

"December 1982."

Development of a method for numerical calculation of wave refraction /

"October 1964."

Analysis of wave forces on a 30-inch diameter pile under confused sea conditions /

"October 1965."

Tables of the statistical distribution of ocean wave forces and methods of estimating drag and mass coefficients /

"October 1967."

Evaluation of the computation of wave direction with three-gage arrays /

Issued July 1977.

Phase of the low radiofrequency ground wave

Bibliography: p. 10.

Atoll lagoon flushing forced by waves

Water level and current measurements from two virtually enclosed South Pacific atolls, Manihiki and Rakahanga, support a new lagoon flushing mechanism which is driven by waves and modulated by the ocean tide for virtually enclosed atolls. This is evident because the lagoon water level remains above the ocean at all tidal phases (i.e., ruling out tidal flushing) and because the average lagoon water level rises significantly during periods with large waves. Hence, we develop a model by which the lagoons are flushed by waves pumping of ocean water into the lagoon and gravity draining water from the lagoon over the reef rim. That is, the waves on the exposed side push water into the lagoon during most of the tidal cycle while water leaves the lagoon on the protected side for most of the tidal cycle. This wave-driven through flow flushing is shown to be more efficient than alternating tidal flushing with respect to water renewal. Improved water quality should therefore be sought through enhancement of the natural wave pumping rather than by blasting deep channels which would change the system to an alternating tide-driven one.

Sheet flow sediment transport under waves with acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming

The effect of acceleration skewness on sheet flow sediment transport rates (q) over bar (s) is analysed using new data which have acceleration skewness and superimposed currents but no boundary layer streaming. Sediment mobilizing forces due to drag and to acceleration (similar to pressure gradients) are weighted by cosine and sine, respectively, of the angle phi(.)(tau)phi(tau) = 0 thus corresponds to drag dominated sediment transport, (q) over bar (s)similar to vertical bar u(infinity)vertical bar u(infinity), while phi(tau) = 90 degrees corresponds to total domination by the pressure gradients, (q) over bar similar to du(infinity)/dt. Using the optimal angle, phi = 51 degrees based on that data, good agreement is subsequently found with data that have strong influence from boundary layer streaming. Good agreement is also maintained with the large body of U-tube data simulating sine waves with superimposed currents and second-order Stokes waves, all of which have zero acceleration skewness. The recommended model can be applied to irregular waves with arbitrary shape as long as the assumption negligible time lag between forcing and sediment transport rate is valid. With respect to irregular waves, the model is much easier to apply than the competing wave-by-wave models. Issues for further model developments are identified through a comprehensive data review.

A mathematical model of integrin-mediated haptotactic cell migration

Haptotactic cell migration, a directed response to gradients of cell—extracellular matrix adhesion, is an important process in a number of biological phenomena such as wound healing and tumour cell invasion. Previously, mathematical models of haptotaxis have been developed on the premise that cells migrate in response to gradients in the density of the extracellular matrix. In this paper, we develop a novel mathematical model of haptotaxis which includes the adhesion receptors known as integrins and a description of their functional activation, local recruitment and protrusion as part of lamellipodia. Through the inclusion of integrins, the modelled cell matter is able to respond to a true gradient of cell–matrix adhesion, represented by functionally active integrins. We also show that previous matrix-mediated models are in fact a subset of the novel integrin-mediated models, characterised by specific choices of diffusion and haptotaxis coefficients in their model equations. Numerical solutions suggest the existence of travelling waves of cell migration that are confirmed via a phase plane analysis of a simplified model.

Swash-aquifer interaction in the vicinity of the water table exit point on a sandy beach

The coupling of sandy beach aquifers with the swash zone in the vicinity of the water table exit point is investigated through simultaneous measurements of the instantaneous shoreline (swash front) location, pore pressures and the water table exit point. The field observations reveal new insights into swash-aquifer coupling not previously gleaned from measurements of pore pressure only. In particular, for the case where the exit point is seaward of the observation point, the pore pressure response is correlated with the distance between the exit point and the shoreline in that when the distance is large the rate of pressure drop is fast and when the distance is small the rate decreases. The observations expose limitations in a simple model describing exit point dynamics which is based only on the force balance on a particle of water at the sand surface and neglects subsurface pressures. A new modified form of the model is shown to significantly improve the model-data comparison through a parameterization of the effects of capillarity into the aquifer storage coefficient. The model enables sufficiently accurate predictions of the exit point to determine when the swash uprush propagates over a saturated or a partially saturated sand surface, potentially an important factor in the morphological evolution of the beach face. Observations of the shoreward propagation of the swash-induced pore pressure waves ahead of the runup limit shows that the magnitude of the pressure fluctuation decays exponentially and that there is a linear increase in time lags, behavior similar to that of tidally induced water table waves. The location of the exit point and the intermittency of wave runup events is also shown to be significant in terms of the shore-normal energy distribution. Seaward of the mean exit point location, peak energies are small because of the saturated sand surface within the seepage face acting as a "rigid lid'' and limiting pressure fluctuations. Landward of the mean exit point the peak energies grow before decreasing landward of the maximum shoreline position.

Carbon14 ages of surface sediment samples from ther Persian Gulf

A simplified classification of the Holocene sediments based on textures and grain type results in fourteen major units, twelve of which are essentially carbonate in composition. A brief description and photographic illustration of these units, together with the sedimentary and diagenetic processes which have contributed to their formation, is designed to give the reader a broad but valid impression of Persian Gulf sediments. The distribution of the fourteen sediment units throughout the Arabian parts of the basin, although complicated by numerous local bathymetric highs and depressions, is relatively simple. Because the Arabian sea floor slopes progressively from a windward shoreline to the basin center there is increasing protection from wave action towards the center of the basin. As a result sediments grade from skeletal, oolitic and pelletoidal sands (and muds in coastal lagoons) and fringing reefs, through an irregular zone of compound grain sands,into widespread skeletal muddy sands, and finally into basin center muds. These simple relationships vary laterally around the Arabian side of the gulf. Lateral variation is dependant upon orientation of the regional slope with respect to the prevailing NW wind-driven waves, angle of slope, and presence or absence of regional, structurally based barriers.

Aged embankment imaging and assessment using surface waves

Rapid, non-intrusive surface wave surveys provide depth profiles from which ground models can be generated for use in earthwork condition assessment. Stiffness throughout earthworks controls the behaviour under static and dynamic loads, and characterising heterogeneity is of interest in relation to the stability of engineered backfill and life-cycle deterioration in aged utility and transportation infrastructure. Continuous surface wave methods were used to identify interfaces between fine- and coarse-grained fill in an end-tipped embankment along the Great Central Railway in Nottinghamshire, UK. Multichannel analysis of surface wave (MASW) methods were used to characterise subsurface voiding in a canal embankment along the Knottingley and Goole canal near Eggborough, Yorkshire. MASW methods are currently being used to study extreme weather impacts on the stability of a highplasticity clay embankment along the Gloucestershire–Warwickshire railway near Laverton. Optimal results were obtained using equipment capable of generating and detecting over wide frequency ranges.

Receptors, sparks and waves in a fire-diffuse-fire framework for calcium release

Calcium ions are an important second messenger in living cells. Indeed calcium signals in the form of waves have been the subject of much recent experimental interest. It is now well established that these waves are composed of elementary stochastic release events (calcium puffs or sparks) from spatially localised calcium stores. The aim of this paper is to analyse how the stochastic nature of individual receptors within these stores combines to create stochastic behaviour on long timescales that may ultimately lead to waves of activity in a spatially extended cell model. Techniques from asymptotic analysis and stochastic phase-plane analysis are used to show that a large cluster of receptor channels leads to a release probability with a sigmoidal dependence on calcium density. This release probability is incorporated into a computationally inexpensive model of calcium release based upon a stochastic generalization of the Fire-Diffuse-Fire (FDF) threshold model. Numerical simulations of the model in one and two dimensions (with stores arranged on both regular and disordered lattices) illustrate that stochastic calcium release leads to the spontaneous production of calcium sparks that may merge to form saltatory waves. Illustrations of spreading circular waves, spirals and more irregular waves are presented. Furthermore, receptor noise is shown to generate a form of array enhanced coherence resonance whereby all calcium stores release periodically and simultaneously.