Desenvolvimento de um material têxtil termosenssível com micro/nanocápsulas imobilizadas em fibras regeneradas

Intelligent and functional Textile Materials have been widely developed and researched with the purpose of being used in several areas of science and technology. These fibrous materials require different chemical and physical properties to obtain a multifunctional material. With the advent of nanotechnology, the techniques developed, being used as essential tools to characterize these new materials qualitatively. Lately the application of micro and nanomaterials in textile substrates has been the objective of many studies, but many of these nanomaterials have not been optimized for their application, which has resulted in increased costs and environmental pollution, because there is still no satisfactory effluent treatment available for these nanomaterials. Soybean fiber has low adsorption for thermosensitive micro and nanocapsules due to their incompatibility of their surface charges. For this reason, in this work initially chitosan was synthesized to functionalise soybean fibres. Chitosan is a natural polyelectrolyte with a high density of positive charges, these fibres have negative charges as well as the micro/nanocápsules, for this reason the chitosan acts as auxiliary agent to cationize in order to fix the thermosensitive microcapsules in the textile substrate. Polyelectrolyte was characterized using particle size analyses and the measurement of zeta potential. For the morphological analysis scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and x-Ray Diffraction (XRD) and to study the thermal properties, thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Near Infrared Spectroscopy analysis in the Region of the Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR), colourimetry using UV-VIS spectrum were simultaneously performed on the substrate. From the measurement of zeta potential and in the determination of the particle size, stability of electrostatic chitosan was observed around 31.55mV and 291.0 nm respectively. The result obtained with (GD) for chitosan extracted from shrimp was 70 %, which according to the literature survey can be considered as chitosan. To optimize the dyeing process a statistical software, Design expert was used. The surface functionalisation of textile substrate with 2% chitosan showed the best result of K/S, being the parameter used for the experimental design, in which this showed the best response of dyeing absorbance in the range of 2.624. It was noted that soy knitting dyed with the thermosensitive micro andnanocapsules property showed excellent washing solidity, which was observed after 25 home washes, and significant K/S values.

Conceção de produtos de design de malhas sustentáveis e inovadores

Dissertação para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Design de Moda, apresentada na Universidade de Lisboa - Faculdade de Arquitetura.

Towards the knittability of graphene oxide fibres

Recent developments in graphene oxide fibre (GO) processing include exciting demonstrations of hand woven textile structures. However, it is uncertain whether the fibres produced can meet the processing requirements of conventional textile manufacturing. This work reports for the first time the production of highly flexible and tough GO fibres that can be knitted using textile machinery. The GO fibres are made by using a dry-jet wet-spinning method, which allows drawing of the spinning solution (the GO dispersion) in several stages of the fibre spinning process. The coagulation composition and spinning conditions are evaluated in detail, which led to the production of densely packed fibres with near-circular cross-sections and highly ordered GO domains. The results are knittable GO fibres with Young's modulus of ~7.9 GPa, tensile strength of ~135.8 MPa, breaking strain of ~5.9%, and toughness of ~5.7 MJ m(-3). The combination of suitable spinning method, coagulation composition, and spinning conditions led to GO fibres with remarkable toughness; the key factor in their successful knitting. This work highlights important progress in realising the full potential of GO fibres as a new class of textile.

A biomechanically optimized knitted stent using a bio-inspired design approach

Vascular implants have always been a key area of research in medical textiles. Knitted structures have been proven to be suitable for stent applications on the basis of their looped mesh geometry, structural flexibility and ease of manufacturing. However, there are biomechanical constraints of plain knit constructions that can result in clinical complications after implantation and hence cannot be ignored. This study reports a new segmented knit design inspired by structural metamerism observed in the body design of some invertebrate animals. Metamerism is the phenomenon of having a linear series of body segments fundamentally similar in structure, but assigned to perform different functions. It was hypothesized that utilization of this simple and yet effective biological design approach in stent construction could improve the degree of control for optimizing stent biomechanical properties. The proposed segmented stent was constructed by incorporating an elastic filament component into a polyethylene terephthalate knitted stent at specific intervals along its length, also known as the ‘Plating Technique’. This technique generates a structure with alternately arranged stiff and elastic knitted sections which equip the stent with vital structural support and volumetric compliance properties, respectively. The stent design parameters (filament diameter, loop length, segmentation plan) were optimized to achieve significantly better biomechanical performance (bending flexibility, compression resistance, volumetric expansion, longitudinal extensibility) than a plain knit stent.

Online stretching of directly electrospun nanofiber yarns

Nanofiber yarns are important building blocks for making three-dimensional nanostructures, e.g. through a knitting or weaving process, with better mechanical properties than nanofiber nonwovens and well-controlled fibrous construction. However, it still remains challenging to produce quality nanofiber yarns in a sufficient rate. In this study, we have proven that online stretching during electrospinning of nanofiber yarns can considerably improve fiber alignment and molecular orientation within the yarn and increase yarn tensile strength, but reduce fiber/yarn diameters. By compensating twist during online stretching, the device can prepare nanofiber yarns with different stretch levels, but maintaining the same twist multiplier. This allows us to examine the effect of stretching on fiber and yarn morphology. It was interesting to find that on increasing the stretching ratio from 0% to 95%, the yarn diameter reduced from 135.1 ± 20.3 μm to 46.2 ± 10.2 μm, and the fiber diameter reduced from 998 ± 141 nm to 631 ± 98 nm, whereas the yarn tensile strength increased from 48.2 ± 5.6 MPa to 127.7 ± 5.4 MPa. Such an advanced yarn electrospinning technique can produce nanofiber yarn with an overall yarn production rate as high as 10 m min−1. This may be useful for production of nanofiber yarns for various applications.

A tissue of denials: film retrospective (1979-2016)

My abstract moving image making has provided a foundation for my practice since I first started processing and solarizing my own 16mm film in one of those LOMO Russian processing tanks in 1973. Feyers, Zoomfilm (1976) and Running (1976) rework some of those early strips of black and white film. Whenever funding dried up I always fell back on my abstract direct on film work. It was cheap. Like knitting, it gave me a space to process the dilemmas and incongruities of daily life and to escape its clutches. I also began to understand that these forces were still there, embedded implicitly in the work. Now, more than ever, I understand this as a survival response to corporate doublespeak. I would never throw anything away. New scratching, painting, taping or bleaching strategies could be added later. Intensive cluster editing of single frames became an obsession. The translated difference between what you saw over a light-box and what was projected drew me in. Like the migrant position I was allocated from childhood I survived in the space between these two territories. As well as an archive of images and movement I collect optical effects. The flash frame. The trail of afterimages resulting from flickering between positive and negative images. At their liveliest these images float above the screen. Now the digital allows me to amplify the material presence of 16m and 35mm film and a whole new world opens up before me. I cobble together found footage films from my own archive of discarded data and unfinished sentences.

Ciudad Verde: una mirada desde el reconocimiento social hasta la diferenciación a través de los espacios

La presente monografía se refiere a la vida cotidiana de los residentes del macroproyecto de vivienda de interés social Cuidad Verde en el municipio de Soacha para comprender las formas de reconocimiento que se tejen entre los residentes, transeúntes y visitantes de la ciudadela. Asimismo, analiza los imaginarios espaciales para entender las relaciones sociales entre unos y otros, abordando al macroproyecto no sólo como un lugar físico sino como un espacio que permite reproducir estereotipos sociales, crear mecanismos de distinción, transformar las maneras de apropiación de la vivienda y tejer nociones de progreso a partir del lugar donde se vive.

Mathematics and fiber arts

Mathematics can be found all over the world, even in what could be considered an unrelated area, like fiber arts. In knitting, crochet, and counted-thread embroidery, we can find concepts of algebra, graph theory, number theory, geometry of transformations, and symmetry, as well as computer science. For example, many fiber art pieces embody notions related with groups of symmetry. In this work, we focus on two areas of Mathematics associated with knitting, crochet, and cross-stitch works – number theory and geometry of transformations.