864 resultados para Fashion and sustainability


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Part 10: Sustainability and Trust

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Doutoramento em Engenharia Florestal e dos Recursos Naturais - Instituto Superior de Agronomia - UL

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The challenge for wastewater professionals is to design and operate treatment processes that support human well being and are environmentally sensitive throughout the life-cycle. This research focuses on one technology for small-scale wastewater treatment: the vertical flow constructed wetland (VFCW), which is herein investigated for the capacity to remove ammonium and nitrate nitrogen from wastewater. Hydraulic regime and presence/absence of vegetation are the basis for a three-phase bench scale experiment to determine oxygen transfer and nitrogen fate in VFCWs. Results show that 90% NH4+-N removal is achieved in aerobic downflow columns, 60% NO3--N removal occurs in anaerobic upflow columns, and 60% removal of total nitrogen can be achieved in downflow-upflow in-series. The experimental results are studied further using a variably saturated flow and reactive transport model, which allows a mechanistic explanation of the fate and transport of oxygen and nitrogen. The model clarifies the mechanisms of oxygen transport and nitrogen consumption, and clarifies the need for readily biodegradable COD for denitrification. A VFCW is then compared to a horizontal flow constructed wetland (HFCW) for life cycle environmental impacts. High areal emissions of greenhouse gases from VFCWs compared to HFCWs are the driver for the study. The assessment shows that because a VFCW is only 25% of the volume of an HFCW designed for the same treatment quality, the VFCW has only 25-30% of HFCW impacts over 12 impact categories and 3 damage categories. Results show that impacts could be reduced by design improvements. Design recommendations are downflow wetlands for nitrification, upflow wetlands for denitrification, series wetlands for total nitrogen removal, hydraulic load of 142 L/m2d, 30 cm downflow wetland depth, 1.0 m upflow wetland depth, recycle, vegetation and medium-grained sand. These improvements will optimize nitrogen removal, minimize gaseous emissions, and reduce wetland material requirements, thus reducing environmental impact without sacrificing wastewater treatment quality.

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Regular physical activity (PA) during childhood is associated with physical, mental, emotional and social health benefits. The constant practice of PA is considered one of the best buys available in public health. The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends to perform at least 60 minutes per day of moderate to vigorous PA for children and adolescents in order to obtain health benefits. However, globally, this level of PA is hardly achieved. Children and adolescent who do not reach the recommended levels of PA are defined as physically inactive and nowadays physical inactivity constitutes a new type of pandemic. For this reason, the WHO launched a global action plan addressing physical activity with a goal of reducing physical inactivity in children and youth. The plan also included recommendation to improve individual and community health and contribute to the social, cultural and economic development of all nations. Worldwide, children and adolescents spend a significant amount of time in school and for this reason the school represents a fundamental educational setting that can play a pivotal role increasing students’ PA. Opportunities to be physically active should not be considered purely in relation to when children attend physical education classes but also making physical activity available during the school day, such as physically active lessons, and multicomponent PA interventions. Since school-based PA interventions are quite numerous, the present thesis focused on interventions delivered during school hours and that integrate small doses of PA as part of routine instruction. This type of intervention is called “Active Breaks.” Active Breaks consists of brief 5–15 minutes sessions of PA led by teachers who introduce short bursts of PA into the academic lesson. In light of this the present thesis aims to evaluate the feasibility, efficacy and sustainability of an Active Breaks intervention targeting children to promote PA.

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Due to the interest of general public and the industrial stakeholders, new challenges and demands are rising in aircraft design. The sustainability is taking its place amongst more traditional design factors, such as safety, performances and costs. Sustainability is both environmental and economic, and among the factors contributing to economic sustainability, there is also passengers' comfort. In order to win these two challenges, they must be considered in the early stages of aircraft design. In this work, the focus is on emissions generation and acoustic comfort, aiming at reducing pollution and internal noise in the preliminary design phases. These results can be achieved with both unconventional aircraft configurations and advanced materials, which also require new numerical formulations to be assessed. In this research, on one hand, the windowless configuration for a commercial aircraft is studied with traditional preliminary design methods in order to achieve a weight reduction and consequently a return in terms of emissions and costs. On the other hand, a new class of insulating materials, the acoustic metamaterials, is applied on the passenger cabin lining panels. The complex kinematic behaviour of these advanced materials is studied through the Carrera's Unified Formulation, that enhances a wide class of powerful refined shell and beam theories with a unique formulation.

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Northwestern Adriatic Sea Mediterranean mussels are exposed to fluctuating environmental parameters and to natural and anthropogenic stressors. Today is well known that mussels can be defined as holobiont, even if remains a lot to elucidate about how an organism and its microbial component response to environmental stress. This PhD dissertation aims to investigate microbiome possible adaptive patters exploiting the organism physiology response to stress, using the NGS sequencing method. The experimental approach consisted of two phases to first determine (i) the microbiome at a tissue scale level, (ii) the microbiome and physiological response to natural and anthropogenic stress environment and the chemical assessment of the microecosystem the Northwestern Adriatic Sea Mediterranean Mussel lives in. Results revealed firstly a robust microbiome well differentiated from seawater microecosystem, with compositional variations at the organ level. Thanks to those findings, digestive gland, the organ in which digestive and detoxification processes allow animal to tolerate and accumulate xenobiotics of natural and anthropogenic origin, was the selected tissue for the second phase of the project. The second phase of the project evaluated the putative physiological variations and the compositional changes in microbiome of digestive gland. I then manage to assess microbiome region trends across the north Adriatic, with each sampling site well differentiated from the others. Finally, a chemical method able to a powerful tool for the analytical detection of the major pollutants in mussels were validated. These first results may provide baseline information for future studies approaches of seasonal and region trends of microbiota profiles and physiological responses in terms of metabolism.

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The newly inaugurated Navile District of the University of Bologna is a complex created along the Navile canal, that now houses various teaching and research activities for the disciplines of Chemistry, Industrial Chemistry, Pharmacy, Biotechnology and Astronomy. A Building Information Modeling system (BIM) gives staff of the Navile campus several ways to monitor buildings in the complex throughout their life cycle, one of which is the ability to access real-time environmental data such as room temperature, humidity, air composition, and more, thereby simplifying operations like finding faults and optimizing environmental resource usage. But smart features at Navile are not only available to the staff: AlmaMap Navile is a web application, whose development is documented in this thesis, that powers the public touch kiosks available throughout the campus, offering maps of the district and indications on how to reach buildings and spaces. Even if these two systems, BIM and AlmaMap, don't seem to have many similarities, they share the common intent of promoting awareness for informed decision making in the campus, and they do it while relying on web standards for communication. This opens up interesting possibilities, and is the idea behind AlmaMap Navile 2.0, an app that interfaces with the BIM system and combines real-time sensor data with a comfort calculation algorithm, giving users the ability not just to ask for directions to a space, but also to see its comfort level in advance and, should they want to, check environmental measurements coming from each sensor in a granular manner. The end result is a first step towards building a smart campus Digital Twin, that can support all the people who are part of the campus life in their daily activities, improving their efficiency and satisfaction, giving them the ability to make informed decisions, and promoting awareness and sustainability.

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Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

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This qualitative inquiry explored 7 undergraduate students' attitudes, habits, and knowledge of consumerism, fashion design, and sustainability. The postmodern study employed crystallization as its methodological framework to gain insight into how participants' knowledge is manifested in their daily habits, and used 4 methods of data gathering: semistructured interviews, visual exercises, journal entries, and the researcher's own reflections. Four major themes emerged: Knowledge-Concepts Linked and Fragmented; Dissonance Between Knowledge Versus Attitudes and Consumer Habits; Surrendering to the Unsustainable Structures; Design Process and Caring Attitude. Findings indicate that participants possessed some knowledge of sustainability but lacked a well-rounded understanding of environmental and humanitarian implications of Western consumer society. Findings also reveal a dissonance between participants' knowledge and attitudes-affecting how their knowledge influences their behaviour-and how reflection, creative thinking, and drawing initiate change in participants' underlying attitudes. Recommendations are made to merge a variety of theoretical frameworks into the educational system in order to create curricula that offer a holistic overview and unique insights into sustainability challenges, particularly in specialized areas of the fashion industry.

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Consumers worldwide are increasingly concerned with sustainable production and consumption. Recently, a comprehensive study ranked 17 countries in regard to their environmentally friendly behaviour among consumers. Brazil was one of the top countries in the list. Yet, several studies highlight significant differences between consumers` intentions to consume ethically, and their actual purchase behaviour: the so-called `Attitude-Behaviour Gap`. In developing countries, few studies have been conducted on this issue. The objective of this study is therefore to investigate the gap between citizens` sustainability-related attitudes and food purchasing behaviour using empirical data from Brazil. To this end, Brazilian citizens` attitudes towards pig production systems were mapped through conjoint analysis and their coexistence with relevant pork product-related purchasing behaviour of consumers was investigated through cluster analysis. The conjoint experiment was carried Out with empirical data collected from 475 respondents surveyed in the South and Center-West regions of Brazil. The results of the conjoint analysis were used for a subsequent cluster analysis in order to identify clusters of Brazilian citizens with diversified attitudes towards pig production systems, using socio-demographics, attitudes towards sustainability-related themes that are expected to influence the way they evaluate pig production systems, and consumption frequency of various pork products as clusters` background information. Three clusters were identified as `indifferent`, `environmental conscious` and `sustainability-oriented` citizens. Although attitudes towards environment and nature had indeed an influence on citizens` specific attitudes towards pig farming at the cluster level, the relationship between `citizenship` and consumption behaviour was found to be weak. This finding is similar to previous research conducted with European consumers: what people (in their role of citizens) think about pig production systems does not appear to significantly influence their pork consumption choices. Improvements in the integrated management of this chain would better meet consumers` sustainability-related expectations towards pig production systems.

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In the business world, there are issues such as globalisation, environmental awareness, and the rising expectations of public opinion which have a specific role in what is required from companies as providers of information to the market. This chapter refers to the current state of corporate reporting (financial reporting and sustainability reporting) and demonstrates the need for evolution to a more integrated method of reporting which meets the stakeholders’ needs. This research offers a reflection on how this development can be achieved, which notes the ongoing efforts by international organisations in implementing the diffusion and adoption, as well as looking at the characteristics which are needed for this type of reporting. It also makes the link between an actual case of a company that is one of the world references in sustainable development and integrated reporting. Whether or not the integrated reporting is the natural evolution of the history of financial and sustainability reporting, it still cannot yet claim to be infallible. However, it may definitely be concluded that a new approach is necessary to meet the needs which are continuously developing for a network of stakeholders.

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A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

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Zara was founded in 1975 by Amancio Ortega Gaona, soon becoming the largest and most successful chain of the Galician group Inditex (Industria de Diseño Textil) and a pioneer of the rising fashion category of Fast Fashion. Its innovative vertically-integrated strategies, combined with its emphasis on quality and demand-based offer have shaped the world of fashion and brought forth many questions on its future sustainability and growth. Zara has always relied on its store network for advertising its product offer; allowing its garments to “speak for themselves”. With the continued pressure felt in the industry, management has pressed some concerns about future company growth and creative, innovating solutions must be implemented to guarantee Zara’s future growth. The case-study narrative focuses on these issues and leaves readers with an open question regarding what decision to implement.

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Dans les sphères du développement durable, des modèles d’affaires et du design de produit, certains leviers rendent le croisement de ces trois sphères de plus en plus pertinent. Au croisement de ces trois sphères se trouve une opportunité de comprendre les relations existantes entre le design de produit et les modèles d’affaires afin d’aider les décideurs à développer des solutions davantage durables. L’approche méthodologique de cette recherche utilise un système complexe et est basée sur un paradigme pragmatique. En vue de répondre à la question « Dans quelle mesure des modèles d’affaires et le design de produit sont liés dans un contexte de développement durable? », cette recherche a soigneusement analysé trois cas: Better Place, une compagnie californienne ayant développé une infrastructure permettant le chargement des voitures électriques; Interface Inc., un manufacturier mondial de tuiles de tapis commerciales établi à Atlanta; et Métacycle, un concept d’entreprise développé par une équipe de chercheurs en design à Montréal. Chaque cas a été analysé en corrélant des aspects du design de produit à des éléments de leur modèle d’affaires. Les résultats montrent que dans le contexte du développement durable, le design de produit et les modèles d’affaires sont interdépendants. Les résultats peuvent être résumés en six points: il existe des relations applicables universellement; les innovations de design substantielles jouent un rôle important dans le développement durable; la « durabilité » peut être une qualité émergente d’un modèle d’affaires; les partenariats peuvent être vitaux pour l’intégration des systèmes; un modèle de services a des bénéfices et des limitations considérables; le design peut agir comme levier à l’utilisation d’énergies renouvelables. Pratiquer simultanément l’innovation du modèle d’affaires et du produit peut apporter une valeur ajoutée, susciter des opportunités et augmenter l’efficience sur plusieurs facettes. Toutefois, les risques et les coûts de tels procédés sont souvent très élevés. En aidant à comprendre et définir comment les trois sphères mentionnées plus tôt sont interdépendantes, cette recherche pourrait idéalement inspirer des recherches supplémentaires sur le sujet. L’application par des organisations de la méthodologie et des apprentissages résultant de cette recherche peut permettre à d’autres d’utiliser le croisement entre l’innovation de produit et l’innovation du modèle d’affaires afin de résoudre des enjeux sociaux et environnementaux complexes.

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Bossel's (2001) systems-based approach for deriving comprehensive indicator sets provides one of the most holistic frameworks for developing sustainability indicators. It ensures that indicators cover all important aspects of system viability, performance, and sustainability, and recognizes that a system cannot be assessed in isolation from the systems upon which it depends and which in turn depend upon it. In this reply, we show how Bossel's approach is part of a wider convergence toward integrating participatory and reductionist approaches to measure progress toward sustainable development. However, we also show that further integration of these approaches may be able to improve the accuracy and reliability of indicators to better stimulate community learning and action. Only through active community involvement can indicators facilitate progress toward sustainable development goals. To engage communities effectively in the application of indicators, these communities must be actively involved in developing, and even in proposing, indicators. The accuracy, reliability, and sensitivity of the indicators derived from local communities can be ensured through an iterative process of empirical and community evaluation. Communities are unlikely to invest in measuring sustainability indicators unless monitoring provides immediate and clear benefits. However, in the context of goals, targets, and/or baselines, sustainability indicators can more effectively contribute to a process of development that matches local priorities and engages the interests of local people.