In Vitro Evaluation Of Sun Protection Factor And Stability Of Commercial Sunscreens Using Mass Spectrometry.

Sunlight exposure causes several types of injury to humans, especially on the skin; among the most common harmful effects due to ultraviolet (UV) exposure are erythema, pigmentation and lesions in DNA, which may lead to cancer. These long-term effects are minimized with the use of sunscreens, a class of cosmetic products that contains UV filters as the main component in the formulation; such molecules can absorb, reflect or diffuse UV rays, and can be used alone or as a combination to broaden the protection on different wavelengths. Currently, worldwide regulatory agencies define which ingredients and what quantities must be used in each country, and enforce companies to conduct tests that confirm the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and the UVA (Ultraviolet A) factor. Standard SPF determination tests are currently conducted in vivo, using human subjects. In an industrial mindset, apart from economic and ethical reasons, the introduction of an in vitro method emerges as an interesting alternative by reducing risks associated to UV exposure on tests, as well as providing assertive analytical results. The present work aims to describe a novel methodology for SPF determination directly from sunscreen formulations using the previously described cosmetomics platform and mass spectrometry as the analytical methods of choice.

Contaminação de produtos de higiene e cosméticos por n-nitrosaminas

N-nitrosamines are carcinogenic compounds that have been found during the last three decades in a variety of consumer products, including cosmetic and personal care products, and their raw materials. These compounds are formed from amine precursors and nitrosating agents present in the formulations. This paper reviews the formation and occurrence of N-nitrosamines in cosmetic products, as well as presents considerations about analytical, toxicological and regulatory aspects.

Absorption of metals and characterization of chemical elements present in three species of Gracilaria (Gracilariaceae) Greville: a genus of economical importance

Gracilaria Greville is a genus of seaweed that is economically explored by the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food industries. One of the biggest problems associated with growing Gracilaria is the discharge of heavy metals into the marine environment. The absorption of heavy metals was investigated with the macroalga Gracilaria tenuistipitata Zhang et Xia, cultivated in a medium containing copper (Cu) and cadmium (Cd). In biological samples, EC50 concentrations of 1 ppm for cadmium and 0.95 ppm for copper were used. These concentrations were based on seaweed growth curves obtained over a period of six days in previous studies. ICP-AES was used to determine the amount of metal that seaweeds absorbed during this period. G. tenuistipitata was able to bioaccumulate both metals, about 17% of copper and 9% of cadmium. Basal natural levels of Cu were found in control seaweeds and in G. tenuistipitata exposed to Cd. In addition, the repertoire of other important chemical elements, as well as their concentrations, was determined for G. tenuistipitata and two other important seaweeds, G. birdiae Plastino & Oliveira and G. domingensis (Kützing) Sonder ex Dickie, collected in natural environments on the Brazilian shore.

INFLUENCE OF ALTITUDE, AGE AND DIAMETER ON YIELD AND ALPHA-BISABOLOL CONTENT OF CANDEIA TREES (Eremanthus erythropappus)

The heartwood of candeia tree is a source of essential oil rich in alpha-bisabolol, a substance widely used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry. Bearing in mind the economic importance of alpha-bisabolol, this work aimed to evaluate the influence of tree age on the yield and content of alpha-bisabolol present in essential oil from candeia, considering two distinct reliefs and three diameter classes, in Aiuruoca region, south Minas Gerais state. The two distinct reliefs correspond respectively to one section of the stand growing at 1,000m of altitude (Area 1) and another section growing at 1,100m of altitude (Area 2). In each section, 15 trees were felled from among 3 different diameter classes. Discs were removed from the base of each tree to estimate their age by doing growth ring count. Soil samples were taken and Subjected to physical and chemical analysis. The logs were reduced into chips and random samples were taken for distillation to extract essential oil. The method used was steam distillation at a pressure of 2 kgf/cm(2)/2.5 h. The chemical analysis was performed in a gas chromatograph (GC) based on the alpha-bisabolol standard reference. The yield of essential oil from trees in Area I was higher than that from trees in Area 2, with the same pattern of influence for older trees. In Area 2, the alpha-bisabolol content was higher in younger trees. No differences were found between the relevant parameters in relation to diameter classes.

Seasonality Role on the Phenolics from Cultivated Baccharis dracunculifolia

Baccharis dracunculifolia is the source of Brazilian green propolis (BGP). Considering the broad spectrum of biological activities attributed to green proplis, B. dracunculifolia has a great potential for the development of new cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. In this work, the cultivation of 10 different populations of native B. dracunculifolia had been undertaken aiming to determine the role of seasonality on its phenolic compounds. For this purpose, fruits of this plant were collected from populations of 10 different regions, and 100 individuals of each population were cultivated in an experimental area of 1800 m(2). With respect to cultivation, the yields of dry plant, essential oil and crude extract were measured monthly resulting in mean values of 399 +/- 80 g, 0.6 +/- 0.1% and 20 +/- 4%, respectively. The HPLC analysis allowed detecting seven phenolic compounds: caffeic acid, ferulic acid, aromadendrin-4'-methyl ether (AME), isosakuranetin, artepillin C, baccharin and 2-dimethyl-6-carboxyethenyl-2H-1-benzopyran acid, which were the major ones throughout the 1-year monthly analysis. Caffeic acid was detected in all cultivated populations with mean of 4.0%. AME displayed the wide variation in relation to other compounds showing means values of 0.65 +/- 0.13% at last quarter. Isosakuranetin and artepillin C showed increasing concentrations with values between 0% and 1.4% and 0% and 1.09%, respectively. The obtained results allow suggesting that the best time for harvesting this plant, in order to obtain good qualitative and quantitative results for these phenolic compounds, is between December and April.

Factitious thyrotoxicosis induced by mesotherapy: A case report

Context: Mesotherapy consists of cutaneous injections of a mixture of compounds and has recently been used for cosmetic purposes to reduce local fat and cellulite. To date, several reports have described only local adverse events related to this therapy. We describe the first report of a female patient who developed thyrotoxicosis due to cosmetic mesotherapy with triiodothyroacetic acid in its formulation. Apart from mechanical rupture of the epidermal barrier, a disturbance of type III deiodinase activity or skin fibroblast paracrine function and vascular alterations related to simultaneously injected vasoactive compounds were observed. These findings could be related to thyroid hormone metabolite absorption and systemic consequences in the reported case. Conclusion: We describe factitious thyrotoxicosis induced by mesotherapy, to raise awareness of a systemic adverse effect resulting from this widespread cosmetic practice.

Standardization and determination of photostability of leaf extracts of Pothomorphe umbellata L. Miq (pariparoba) and evaluation of the inhibition in vitro of metalloproteinases 2 and 9 in skin

Most researches that have been done until today about the beneficial effects of hariparoha (Pothomorphe umbellata L. Miq) have been done with root extract of this species, but the use in large scale would compromise the sustainable exploration of this natutral resource. In this sense, the utilization of pariparoha leaves, substituting the roots, in the cosmetic industry does not put in risk the existence of the species. In this work the concentration of 4-nerolidyl-cathecol (4-NC) in leaf extract was determined by the analytical methodology validated in our laboratory. The concentration of 4-NC in leaf extract was around 30% less than that of root extract, obtained in the same way. Concerning the study of the photostability of a leaves extract solution containing 4-NC did not demonstrate meaningful alterations in the spectrometry, profile after 2 hours of exposure under UVB radiation, showing its stability under this conditions. Metalloproteinases (MMPs) cure endopeptidases that are zinc-dependent, involved in remodeling extracellular matrix (ECM), that are important in the appearance of typical photoaging wrinkles. In this work the capacity of leaf extract of P. umbellata to inhibit MMP-2 and 9 activities of hairless mouse skin in vitro by zymography gel was also evalutated. The leaf extract (0,1 mg/mL) inhibit in 80% activity of this enzymes, according to the densitometric zymography evaluation.

Study of sunless tanning formulas using molted snake skin as an alternative membrane model

Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin cancer. Most sunless tanners currently on the market contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a keto sugar with three carbons. The temporary pigment provided by these formulasis designed to resemble a UV-induced tan. This study evaluated the effectiveness of carbomer gels and cold process self emulsifying bases on skin pigmentation, using different concentrations of a chemical system composed of DHA and N-acetyl tyrosine, which are found in moulted snake skins and their effectiveness was tested by Mexameter (R) MX 18. Eight different sunless tanning formulas were developed, four of which were gels and four of which were emulsions (base, base plus 4.0%, 5.0% and 6.0% (w/w) of a system of DHA and N-acetyl tyrosine). Tests to determine the extent of artificial tanning were done by applying 30 mg cm(-2) of each formula onto standard sizes of moulted snake skin (2.0 cm x 3.0 cm). A Mexameter (R) MX 18 was used to evaluate the extent of coloration in the moulted snake skin at T(0) (before the application) and after 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 and 216 h. The moulted snake skins can be used as an alternative membrane model for in vitro sunless tanning efficacy tests due to their similarity to the human stratum corneum. The DHA concentration was found to influence the initiation of the pigmentation in both sunless tanning systems (emulsion and gel) as well as the time required to increases by a given amount on the tanning index. In the emulsion system, the DHA concentration also influenced the final value on the tanning index. The type of system (emulsion or gel) has no influence on the final value in the tanning index after 216 h for samples with the same DHA concentration.

Rubus rosaefolius Extract as a Natural Preservative Candidate in Topical Formulations

Even though the synthetic preservatives may offer a high antimicrobial efficacy, they are commonly related to adverse reactions and regarded as having potentially harmful effects caused by chronic consumption. The development of natural preservatives provides a way of reducing the amount of synthetic preservatives normally used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In addition, these agents have less toxic effects and represent a possible natural and safer alternative of the preservatives. The purpose of this research was to evaluate the Rubus rosaefolius Smith extract efficiency as a natural preservative in base formulations. Of the extract, 0.2% (w/w) was assayed for its effectiveness of antimicrobial protection in two different base formulations (emulsion and gel). The microbial challenge test was performed following the standard procedures proposed by The United States Pharmacopoeia 33nd, European Pharmacopoeia 6th, Japanese Pharmacopoeia 15th, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association using standardized microorganisms. The results demonstrated that R. rosaefolius extract at the studied concentration reduced the bacterial inocula, satisfying the criterion in all formulations, even though it was not able to present an effective preservative behavior against fungi. Thus, the investigation of new natural substances with preservative properties that could be applied in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products is relevant due to the possibility of substituting or decreasing the concentration of synthetic preservatives, providing a way for the development of safer formulas for the use of consumers.

Prospective ultramorphological characterization of human hair by optical coherence tomography

Background/purpose The continuous advancement in cosmetic science has led to an increasing demand for the development of non-invasive, reliable scientific techniques directed toward claim substantiation, which is of utmost relevance, to obtain data regarding the efficacy and safety of cosmetic products. Methods In this work, we used the optical coherence tomography (OCT) technique to produce in vitro transversal section-images of human hair. We also compared the OCT signal before and after chemical treatment with an 18% w/w ammonium thioglycolate solution. Results The mean diameter of the medulla was 29 +/- 7 mu m and the hair diameter was 122 +/- 16 mu m in our samples of standard Afro-ethnic hair. A three-dimensional (3D) image was constructed starting from 601 cross-sectional images (slices). Each slice was taken in steps of 6.0 mu m at eight frames per second, and the entire 3D image was constructed in 60 s. Conclusion It was possible to identify, using the A-scan protocol, the principal structures: the cuticle, cortex and medulla. After chemical treatment, it was not possible to identify the main structures of hair fiber due to index matching promoted by deleterious action of the chemical agent.

In vitro safety assessment of papain on human skin: A qualitative Light and Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) study

Papain is a thiol proteolytic enzyme widely used in dermatology that found applications in wound treatment. Recently, papain was also used as absorption enhancer which can modify the peptide/ protein material in the bilayer domain. We investigated papain safety using human skin that was exposed to papain in vitro at different times: 4, 24 and 48 hours. The samples were examined using Light and Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM) to study of the mechanisms involved in enhancer-skin interaction. After 24 hours, changes occurred in corneosomes. However, samples of 48 hours did not show major changes in agreement with the control. These findings indicated that papain could be used safely onto the skin.

Production of a collagenase from Candida albicans URM3622

Culture conditions (pH, time, temperature, inoculum size, orbital agitation speed and substrate concentration) for an extracellular collagenase produced by Candida albicans URM3622 were studied using three experimental designs (one 2(6-2) fractionary factorial and two 2(3) full factorial). The analysis of the 2(6-2) fractionary design data indicated that agitation speed and substrate concentration had the most significant effect on collagenase production. Based on these results, two successive 2(3) full factorial design experiments were run in which the effects of substrate concentration, orbital agitation speed and pH were further studied. These two sets of experiments showed that all variables chosen were significant for the enzyme production, with the maximum collagenolytic activity of 6.8 +/- 0.4 U achieved at pH 7.0 with an orbital agitation speed of 160 rpm and 2% substrate concentration. Maximum collagenolytic activity was observed at pH 8.2 and 45 degrees C. The collagenase was stable within a pH range of 7.2-8.2 and over a temperature range of 28-45 degrees C. These results clearly indicate that C. albicans URM3622 is a potential resource for collagenase production and could be of interest for pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food industry. Crown Copyright (C) 2008 Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

A Validated Reverse-phase HPLC Analytical Method for the Quantification of Phenolic Compounds in Baccharis dracunculifolia

Introduction - Baccharis dracunculifolia, which has great potential for the development of new phytotherapeutic medicines, is the most important botanical source of the southeastern Brazilian propolis, known as green propolis on account of its color. Objective - To develop a reliable reverse-phase HPLC chromatographic method for the analysis of phenolic compounds in both B. dracunculifolia raw material and its hydroalcoholic extracts. Methodology - The method utilised a C(18) CLC-ODS (M) (4.6 x 250 mm) column with nonlinear gradient elution and UV detection at 280 nm. A procedure for the extraction of phenolic compounds using aqueous ethanol 90%, with the addition of veratraldehyde as the internal standard, was developed allowing the quantification of 10 compounds: caffeic acid, coumaric acid, ferulic acid, cinnamic acid, aromadendrin-4`-methyl ether, isosakuranetin, drupanin, artepillin C, baccharin and 2,2-dimethyl-6-carboxyethenyl-2H-1-benzopyran acid. Results - The developed method gave a good detection response with linearity in the range 20.83-800 mu g/mL and recovery in the range 81.25-93.20%, allowing the quantification of the analysed standards. Conclusion - The method presented good results for the following parameters: selectivity, linearity, accuracy, precision, robustness, as well as limit of detection and limit of quantitation. Therefore, this method could be considered as an analytical tool for the quality control of B. dracunculifolia raw material and its products in both cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies. Copyright (C) 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo efficacy of topical formulations containing vitamin C and its derivatives studied by non-invasive methods

Background/purpose: Vitamins C and its derivatives, mainly due to their antioxidant properties, are being used in cosmetic products to protect and to reduce the signs of ageing. However, there are no studies comparing the effects of vitamin C [ascorbic acid (AA)] and its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate (ATIP), when vehiculated in topical formulations, mainly using objective measurements, which are an important tool in clinical efficacy studies. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of AA and its derivatives, MAP and ATIP, as well as their in vivo efficacy on human skin, when vehiculated in topical formulations. Methods: The study of antioxidant activity in vitro was performed with an aqueous and a lipid system. The in vivo methodology consisted of the application of these formulations on human volunteers` forearm skin and the analysis of the skin conditions after 4-week period daily applications in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum moisture content and viscoelasticity using a Tewameter (R), Corneometer (R) and Cutometer (R), respectively. Results: In vitro experiments demonstrated that in an aqueous system, AA had the best antioxidant potential, and MAP was more effective than ATIP, whereas in the lipid system ATIP was more effective than MAP. In in vivo studies, all formulations enhanced stratum corneum moisture content after a 4-week period daily applications when compared with baseline values; however, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values. The formulations containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio, which suggested its action in the deeper layers of the skin. Conclusion: AA and its derivates presented an in vitro antioxidant activity but AA had the best antioxidant effect. In in vivo efficacy studies, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values and the formulation containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio. This way, vitamin C derivatives did not present the same effects of AA on human skin; however, MAP showed other significant effect-improving skin hydration, which is very important for the normal cutaneous metabolism and also to prevent skin alterations and early ageing.

A simple analysis of the changes during evaporation of a commercial emulsion of unknown composition

Optical microscopy and centrifugation were used to observe the Structural changes during evaporation of a commercial skin lotion of unknown composition. The degree of evaporation was determined from the changed weight of a microscope slide with the emulsion on a defined area and thickness, the evaporation loss versus time being measured by a balance under an infrared lamp. The results revealed not only which parts of the emulsion were most prone to evaporation without chemical analysis, but also gave surprising information as to which kind of structures would appear after extensive evaporation. The importance of these changes for the action of a skin lotion is briefly discussed.