A queen of indiscretions; the tragedy of Caroline of Brunswick, queen of England,

Mode of access: Internet.

Fadrique Álvarez de Toledo, II Duque de Alba y su inventario de libros (1531): Una biblioteca patrimonial

Fadrique Álvarez de Toledo, que nació hacia 1460 y murió en 1531, lidera en Castilla el linaje de la casa de Alba en el tránsito de la Edad Media al Renacimiento. Primo carnal de Fernando el Católico, y colaborador íntimo de los Reyes, desarrolla una amplia labor de mecenazgo artístico y literario, de la cual son ejemplos relevantes los apoyos a poetas como Juan del Encina, Juan Boscán o Garcilaso de la Vega. A pesar de esta actividad, la crítica no se ha ocupado con detalle de este personaje por haberle eclipsado un tanto su nieto, el Gran Duque de Alba. Este artículo reproduce el inventario de la biblioteca de Don Fadrique (formado por los libros que fueron catalogados a su muerte), inédito hasta ahora y que nos muestra una rica biblioteca patrimonial de ciento ochenta y seis obras. Entre los libros religiosos encontramos biblias, tratados de oración y libros de horas; se hallan también algunos títulos indispensables de las tradiciones franciscana y dominica, que nos muestran a un personaje interesado en las nuevas corrientes devocionales de finales del siglo XV, en el escolasticismo y en las mujeres santas y visionarias del Medievo.

National Myths and Heroes: a Case of Vytautas the Great in Lithuania

The main focus of the thesis concentrates on nationalism and how it is expressed through national myth and a hero. As a case study for Lithuania the cult of Vytautas the Great is used. Theses present how the myth of Vytautas the Great was created and why particularly the Grand duke became a national symbol. It also examines how main nationalism theories are reflected in this case. The main purpose of the thesis is to find out how this myth matches the needs of the current Lithuanian society – the last year schoolchildren (eighteen – nineteen years old) in particular. The main method used in the empirical part of the thesis is qualitative analysis: primary source material was gathered by using semi – structured interviews and the results were analyzed by employing thematic analysis. The theoretical part of the study presents the core nationalism and ethnic identity theories and describes the concepts of national myth and hero as well as their connection and influence for the society and Lithuanians precisely. In this study nationalism is understood as a phenomenon that holds a nation together and is reflected via certain national symbols such as national myths and heroes by forming a national identity the meaning of which is different for each generation. The analysis of the results in this study has showed that the idea of Vytautas the Great as a national hero – symbol, created in the interwar Lithuanian society has lost its significance for the current schoolchildren and has been replaced by other images. However, at the same time the Grand duke is still perceived as an embodiment of the main national Lithuanian virtues.

The lifecycle of the fashion garment : voices of mass market designers

For the Australian fashion industry to move towards a more socially and environmentally ethical industry, change to existing processes would need to occur in all market levels. Change is particularly needed in the mass market, where larger volumes inevitably lead to greater environmental impact. Recent trends in eco fashion have waxed and waned, with only minor impact on the methodology of the mass market design process, with greenwashing and confusion of concepts being common problems. In the mass market, the product lifecycle begins in the design room and ends on the retail floor. A design process for sustainability necessarily expands this lifecycle, assessing the impact of every stage in the life of a fashion garment from the fibre and textiles through to consumer use, to eventual disposal and beyond disposal to fibre recycling and reuse or resale. However, how easy is it for designers to consider a wider view of the product lifecycle in their design process? How much autonomy do they have over their design process, and where do they believe their responsibility begins and ends for the garments they design? This paper will present some preliminary findings from interviews with designers in the Australian women’s wear mass market, revealing their concerns and views on the challenges of a sustainability for their industry.

The story of … the military jacket

Fashion and war don’t seem an obvious pairing, but the military jacket is a fashion staple. It may take the form of a double-breasted dress uniform with brass buttons and epaulettes, trimmed in rock star braid, or it may be a khaki combat jacket, worn with Doc Martens and a scowl. Here I explore how these two forms of the military jacket were frogmarched into fashion...

The story of … the top hat

Throughout the 19th century, the top hat was a mainstay of Victorian life: a man in a topper was well-to-do, respectable, a man of industry. But now the top hat is only a caricature of the upper class privilege it once represented. Its history traces a line through dandies, beavers, silk, and madness...

Portrait of Elisabeth, Queen of Belgium Portraits Women

Autographed dedication: An Margot Einstein in innigem Gedenken an ihrem Vater, meinem grossen and teueren Freund Albert Einstein. Herzlichst Elisabeth April 1956

Garden of Shrinking Violets

Description of the work Garden of Shrinking Violets is a collection of six half scale garments and three illustrations, continuing the practice-led research project into design for disassembly, developed in the work Shrinking Violets (2015). All garments are constructed in laser cut modules that enable the items to be reassembled in new combinations. The project extended the materials used to include ahimsa (peace) silk, silk organza and silk twill. The pattern pieces have internal laser cut grids of 5mm circles, allowing the textiles to be layered, threaded and knotted to achieve rich embellished surfaces that play with the transparencies and colour overlays of the sheer and opaque silks. Research Background Conceptually grounded in design for sustainability, the aim of the work is to develop approaches to garment construction that could allow users to engage with the garments by adding, removing and reconfiguring elements. This approach to design considers the use and end-of-life phases of the transient fashion garment through considering how the garments can be later disassembled. Research Contribution This construction process is unique in being not only a patterning device but also integral to the garment’s construction. This work sits at the intersection of technical design and craft: the laser cutting and technical approach to developing new forms of garment construction is coupled with the artisanal approach of hand-knotting, a reference to traditional quilting techniques, as a method to layer and pattern the textiles. The technique developed in Shrinking Violets was extended to experiment with different grid structures, knotting devices, and decorative fringing. The result is a proposed construction system in which the laser cut grid and knotting form a decorative patterning device, but are also integral to the garments’ construction. Research Significance Garden of Shrinking Violets was exhibited at artisan gallery’s Ivory Street window, Brisbane, January 18 – February 28 2016. The work was selected by artisan gallery exhibition curators. As part of artisan gallery’s public programming, the author participated in a panel discussion: ‘Constructive conversations: deconstruction and reconstruction in contemporary craft and design’ with jeweller Elizabeth Shaw and visual arts lecturer Courtney Pedersen, 20 February 2016. Photography used in illustrations by Jonathan Rae

Das moderne Buch: Harry Graf Kesslers Ästhetik der Lebenskunst im Spiegel der Großherzog Wilhelm Ernst Ausgabe deutscher Klassiker

Die Großherzog Wilhelm Ernst Ausgabe deutscher Klassiker wurde seit 1904 bis in die Zwanziger Jahre hinein im Insel Verlag in Leipzig publiziert. Die Buchreihe hat nicht nur für den Verlag und die Druckerei Poeschel in der sie gedruckt wurde eine ganze Reihe von Neuerungen nach sich gezogen, auch für den deutschen Buchmarkt hat die Klassikerausgabe einen Meilenstein bedeutet. Sie hat einige Eigenschaften des Taschenbuches vorweggenommen. Sie orientierte sich an der Qualität bibliophiler Buchpublikationen, aber war dennoch preislich erschwinglich. Zeitgenössische Klassikerausgaben erschienen zumeist mit einem Kommentar. Nicht so die Großherzog Wilhelm Ernst Ausgabe. Der Text wurde zwar von führenden Wissenschaftlern editiert, aber sie war dennoch unkommentiert. Der Text war in einer Jenson-Antiqua gesetzt obwohl die Debatte um individuell gestaltete Künstlerschriften und die Diskussion um die als deutsche Schrift begriffene Fraktur unter den wichtigsten Protagonisten des deutschen Buchgewerbes ihren Höhepunkt noch nicht erreicht hatte. Ziel für die Klassikerausgabe war darüber hinaus, das zur Jahrhundertwende leicht angestaubte Image der Stadt Weimar aufzupolieren. Über das Patronat des Großherzogs hinaus hätte man die Gewinne aus dem Verkauf der Bücher der Permanenten Ausstellung für die Anschaffung von modernen Kunstobjekten zur Verfügung stellen wollen, die unter der Leitung von Harry Graf Kessler stand. Sieht man den Inhalt der Werke der in der Klassikerreihe erschienen Dichter Goethe, Schiller und Körner in einem ästhetischen Kontext mit dem der Philosophen Schopenhauer und Kant, wird im Spiegel der Formalästhetik der Klassikerausgabe Graf Kesslers Bildungs- und Kulturbegriff erkennbar, der sich in den Jahren nach der Jahrhundertwende zu seinem Lebenskunstideal verdichtete. Der zerrütteten Existenz der Zeitgenossen, wie Friedrich Nietzsche sie beschrieben hatte, sollte der Inhalt der Ausgabe in seiner modernen Form eine moderne Wertehaltung entgegensetzen. Die Lektüre der Klassiker sollte den deutschen Philister „entkrampfen“ und ihm ein Stück der verloren geglaubten Lebensfreude wieder zurück bringen, in dem dieser auch die Facetten des Lebensleids als normal hinnehmen und akzeptieren lernte. Die Klassikerausgabe repräsentierte aus diesem Grund auch den kulturellen und politischen Reformwillen und die gesellschaftlichen Vorstellungen die der Graf für ein modernes Deutschland als überfällig erachtete. Die Buchreihe war aus diesem Grund auch ein politisches Statement gegen die Beharrungskräfte im deutschen Kaiserreich. Die Klassikerreihe wurde in der buchhistorischen Forschung zwar als bedeutender Meilenstein charakterisiert und als „wichtiges“ oder gar „revolutionäres“ Werk der Zeit hervorgehoben, die Ergebnisse der Forschung kann man überspitzt aber in der Aussage zusammenfassen, dass es sich bei der Großherzog Wilhelm Ernst Ausgabe um einen „zufälligen Glückstreffer“ deutscher Buchgestaltung zu handeln scheint. Zumindest lassen die Aussagen, die bisher in dieser Hinsicht gemacht wurden, keine eindeutige Einordnung zu, außer vielleicht der, dass die Klassiker von der englischen Lebensreform inspiriert wurden und Henry van de Velde und William Morris einen Einfluss auf ihre äußere Form hatten. Gerade die Gedankenansätze dieser Beiden nutzte Graf Kessler aber für eigene Überlegungen, die ihn schließlich auch zu eigenen Vorstellungen von idealer Buchgestaltung brachten. Da für Kessler auch Gebrauchsgegenstände Kunst sein konnten, wird das Konzept der Klassikerausgabe bis zur Umsetzung in ihrer `bahnbrechenden´ Form in das ideengeschichtliche und ästhetische Denken des Grafen eingeordnet. Die Klassiker werden zwar in buchhistorischen Einzeluntersuchungen bezüglich ihrer Komponenten, dem Dünndruckpapier, ihrem Einband oder der Schrifttype exponiert. In buchwissenschaftlichen Überblicksdarstellungen wird ihr Einfluss hingegen weniger beachtet, denn verschiedene Kritiker bezogen sie seit ihrem ersten Erscheinen nicht als deutsches Kulturgut mit ein, denn sie lehnten sowohl die englischen Mitarbeiter Emery Walker, Edward Johnston, Eric Gill und Douglas Cockerell wie auch ihre Gestaltung als „welsche“ Buchausgabe ab. Richtig ist, die Großherzog Wilhelm Ernst Ausgabe hatte dieselbe Funktion wie die von Graf Kessler in Weimar konzipierten Kunstausstellungen und die dortige Kunstschule unter der Leitung seines Freundes Henry van de Velde. Auch das für Weimar geplante Theater, das unter der Leitung von Hugo von Hofmannsthal hätte stehen sollen und die Großherzog Wilhelm Ernst Schule, hätten dieselben Ideen der Moderne mit anderen Mitteln transportieren sollen, wie die Großherzog Wilhelm Ernst Ausgabe deutscher Klassiker.

The Perception of American Adolescent Culture Through the Dubbing and Fansubbing of a Selection of US Teen Series from 1990 to 2013

The present dissertation aims at analyzing the construction of American adolescent culture through teen-targeted television series and the shift in perception that occurs as a consequence of the translation process. In light of the recent changes in television production and consumption modes, largely caused by new technologies, this project explores the evolution of Italian audiences, focusing on fansubbing (freely distributed amateur subtitles made by fans for fan consumption) and social viewing (the re-aggregation of television consumption based on social networks and dedicated platforms, rather than on physical presence). These phenomena are symptoms of a sort of ‘viewership 2.0’ and of a new type of active viewing, which calls for a revision of traditional AVT strategies. Using a framework that combines television studies, new media studies, and fandom studies with an approach to AVT based on Descriptive Translation Studies (Toury 1995), this dissertation analyzes the non-Anglophone audience’s growing need to participation in the global dialogue and appropriation process based on US scheduling and informed by the new paradigm of convergence culture, transmedia storytelling, and affective economics (Jenkins 2006 and 2007), as well as the constraints intrinsic to multimodal translation and the different types of linguistic and cultural adaptation performed through dubbing (which tends to be more domesticating; Venuti 1995) and fansubbing (typically more foreignizing). The study analyzes a selection of episodes from six of the most popular teen television series between 1990 and 2013, which has been divided into three ages based on the different modes of television consumption: top-down, pre-Internet consumption (Beverly Hills, 90210, 1990 – 2000), emergence of audience participation (Buffy the Vampire Slayer, 1997 – 2003; Dawson’s Creek, 1998 – 2003), age of convergence and Viewership 2.0 (Gossip Girl, 2007 – 2012; Glee, 2009 – present; The Big Bang Theory, 2007 - present).

Selective oxidation of 5-hydroxymethylfurfural using monometallic and bimetallic supported nanoparticles

This work deals with the oxidation of 5-hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF) to 2,5-furandicarboxylic acid (FDCA) using metal supported catalysts. Catalysts were prepared from the immobilisation of preformed monometallic (Au, Pd) and bimetallic (AuCu, AuPd) nanoparticles on commercial oxides (TiO2, CeO2). Au-TiO2 catalyst was found to be very active for HMF oxidation; however, this system deactivated very fast. For this reason, we prepared bimetallic gold-copper nanoparticles and an increase in the catalytic activity was observed together with an increase in catalyst stability. In order to optimise the interaction of the metal active phase with the support, Au and AuCu nanoparticles were supported onto CeO2. Au-CeO2 catalyst was found to be more active than the bimetallic one, leading to the conclusion that in this case the most important feature is the interaction between gold and the support. Catalyst pre-treatments (calcination and washing) were carried out to maximise the contact between the metal and the oxide and an increase in the FDCA production could be observed. The presence of ceria defective sites was crucial for FDCA formation. Mesoporous cerium oxide was synthesised with the hard template method and was used as support for Au nanoparticles to promote the catalytic activity. In order to study the role of active phase in HMF oxidation, PdAu nanoparticles were supported onto TiO2. Au and Pd monometallic catalysts were very active in the formation of HMFCA (5-hydroxymethyl-2-furan carboxylic acid), but Pd was not able to convert it, leading to a low FDCA yield. The calcination of PdAu catalysts led to Pd segregation on the particles surface, which changed the reaction pathway and included an important contribution of the Cannizzaro reaction. PVP protected PdAu nanoparticles, synthesised with different morphologies (core-shell and alloyed structure), confirmed the presence of a different reaction mechanism when the metal surface composition changes.

Electrochemical imaging of living cell metabolism: investigation on Warburg effect in cancer

Cancer is one of the principal causes of death in the world; almost 8.2 million of deaths were counted in 2012. Emerging evidences indicate that most of the tumors have an increased glycolytic rate and a detriment of oxidative phosphorylation to support abnormal cell proliferation; this phenomenon is known as aerobic glycolysis or Warburg effect. This switching toward glycolysis implies that cancer tissues metabolize approximately tenfold more glucose to lactate in a given time and the amount of lactate released from cancer tissues is much greater than from normal ones. In view of these fundamental discoveries alterations of the cellular metabolism should be considered a crucial hallmark of cancer. Therefore, the investigation of the metabolic differences between normal and transformed cells is important in cancer research and it might find clinical applications. The aim of the project was to investigate the cellular metabolic alterations at single cell level, by monitoring glucose and lactate, in order to provide a better insight in cancer research. For this purpose, electrochemical techniques have been applied. Enzyme-based electrode biosensors for lactate and glucose were –ad hoc- optimized within the project and used as probes for Scanning Electrochemical Microscopy (SECM). The UME biosensor manufacturing and optimization represented a consistent part of the work and a full description of the sensor preparation protocols and of the characterization methods employed is reported. This set-up (SECM used with microbiosensor probes) enabled the non-invasive study of cellular metabolism at single cell level. The knowledge of cancer cell metabolism is required to design more efficient treatment strategies.

Organic d13C values, kerogen atomic C/N ratios and relative weights of some kerogen pyrolysis products of ODP Hole 112-682A (Table 1)

Carbon isotopic composition of predominantly marine kerogen in latest Oligocene mudstones of the Peru Margin ODP 682A Hole shows an about 3.5? increase with decreasing age. Py-GC and elemental (C=N ratio) analysis of the kerogen plus sulphur isotopic study together with earlier knowledge on geological setting and organic geochemistry results in a better understanding of depositionary environment and allows to separation of the influence of concentration of water dissolved carbon dioxide (ce) on kerogen delta13C from that of other factors (bacterial degradation, sea surface temperature, DIC delta13C, productivity, and admixture of land plant OM). Based on this analysis, the major part of the kerogen shift is considered as a result of the latest Oligocene decrease of marine photosynthetic carbon isotopic fractionation in the Peru Margin photic zone, which in turn possibly reflects a simultaneous drop in atmospheric CO2 level. Uncertainties in the evaluation of the factors affecting the marine photosynthetic carbon isotopic fractionation and the extent of ocean-atmosphere disequilibrium do not permit calculation of the decrease of the atmospheric CO2.

Marie Antoinette and the end of the old régime;

Covers period 1781-October 1789. Continued by "Marie Antoinette at the Tuilleries" and "Marie Antoinette and the downfall of royalty".