Guararapes confecções S.A da Empresa familiar ao Grupo Econômico

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior

Vocabulário técnico e formação dos profissionais da área têxtil: necessidade, elaboração e avaliação de um dicionário de terminologia do vestuário

This research work deals with the compilation of a dictionary on clothing terminology intended to be used as a pedagogic tool as part of the teaching and learning process in the Textile Engineering Course at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte. The main terms were selected and assessed by a team of textile teachers and students with the objective to be structured as a conceptual body of information on the following sub-areas of clothing terminology: materials (fabrics and trimmings) and products (garments). This research comprises three main steps: (a) characterization and understanding of the technical vocabulary in the clothing area as well as the identification of a pedagogic demand for a dictionary on clothing terminology, clearly expressed by the textile lecturers and students involved in the assessment of the need and validation of this project development; (b) a proposal for a specific methodology for the compilation of the dictionary which could help the communication process in the lecturing of clothing terminology and (c) based on the terminological principles and the technique of focal groups the dictionary was assessed. The technique of focal groups was used in the first step. In the second step the technique used was that of the terminological methodology adapted to the teaching approach in the Textile Course. In the third step the technique of focal groups was again utilized. It was observed that the main concern of lecturers and students is the lack of a standardized vocabulary, which renders difficult the communication process in both the teaching and learning activities as well as the professional ones in the textile industries. Various aspects, which can overlap, cause this lack of standardization. The main ones pointed out by the study team in the focal groups are: usage of regional words or expressions, usage of foreign words or expressions, analogies, and the low level of formal education, mainly among the industry workers. Another aspect to be considered is the lack of textile literature written in the Portuguese language of Brazil. This evidence shows the importance of a clothing terminology dictionary which will benefit both the education and professional activties in this field of knowledge. This dictionary will also give a substantial contribution to terminological standardization in our research field. With view to fulfill this demand, a dictionary of clothing terminology was compiled with 760 main entries, according to the modern practice in terminology with the necessary modifications concerning our needs. The result of the dictionary assessment was very assertive regarding its structure, contents and possible use in various contexts. The team work emphasized their contribution to the standardization process of the terms that proved to be one of the most important and difficult aspects of this researh work. The significance of this structured terminological dictionary was confirmed by the focal group participants relating to its use for teaching and learning activities, as a reference book, as a source of technical information and also as a tool for pedagogic studies and planning, as well as a significant collaboration to the pedagogic practices in the textile engineering course at University or any other educational institution. Besides, this dictionary can also be used to supply information within the textile field. We are aware that the present work will not exhaust the objectives of this research due to its limitations in opposition to the vast complexity demanded by the compilation of a complete work including all the areas and sub-areas of textile engineering. However, it is an important source for dissemination of concepts on the field of clothing terminology and a tool to effective standardization of the terms used in this subject field

A Produção mais Limpa como ferramenta em busca da sustentabilidade empresarial: um estudo de múltiplos casos em empresas do Estado do Rio Grande do Norte

This study aimed to assess the Cleaner Production CP as corporate sustainable tool, through the multiple case studies within companies from Rio Grande do Norte State. In order to achieve this goal a research methodology approach was set. The initial stage of the research methodology was based on a literature review on which it was observed that the CP can be linked with corporate sustainable once it prevents pollution and reduces the operational risks among employees, community and environment. In addition, CP can useful for companies position within competitive position as well as being applied to process, products and services. In order to observe these factors, CP was used within food industry (Company 1), textile industry (Company 2) and in a car dealer (Company 3). Regarding the results, Company 1 changed its raw material as well as implementing housekeeping (control use of water, energy and condensed milk). In Company 2, it was observed the three levels of CP. In other words, housekeeping (e.g. cutting process and manipulation of chemical products), changing technology (high pressure washing machine) and internal and external recycling. In addition, Company 3 considered only level 3 external recycling. As consequence, it was observed that can be applied either within industry as well as service sector. Unfortunately, it was not possible to observe any social gains on a monetary basis. This is due to limitations of the CP methodology and study complexity. Therefore, it was observed improvements regarding to social, environmental and economic areas. Nevertheless, it is necessary more commitment from top level management in order to consider CP like effective sustainable tool

Aplicação da metodologia seis sigma em uma empresa de médio porte do setor têxtil

The Six Sigma methodology has received considerable attention in the last two decades. This is due to its great potencial to reduce processes variability, through the use of accurate data, facts and statistical techniques. The methodology seeks to improve the quality of products and services, maximizing the company s financial performance. Specifically, its implementation and results in medium-sized textile enterprises is unknow, although there are signs that the methodology can be applied with success. Considering this scenario, the goal of this research is to describe the application of the Six Sigma methodology in a médium-sized textile company specialized in the production of male shirts in the satate of Rio Grande do Norte, Brazil. First, we present a literature review, seeking to highlight the themes of quality, Six Sigma and its methodology for improvement. Then, we show the implementation of the project selected, depicting the steps and procedures that must be performed. The results confirm the efficiency of Six Sigma in providing significant gains to companies. It is observed substantial improvements in the speed of product development and the flexibility of the parts produced, reducing the process lead time from 12.5 to 6.2 days, which means a performance improvement of over 50%. This leads also to cultural and behaviour change, creating motivation for implementation of new projects and a continuous search for knowledge

Desenvolvimento de circuitos planares sobre substratos têxteis

The use of flexible materials for the development of planar circuits is one of the most desired and studied characteristics, lately, by researchers. This happens because the flexibility of the substrate can provide previously impracticable applications, due to the rigidity of the substrates normally used that makes it difficult to fit into the circuits in irregular surfaces. The constant interest in recent years for more lighter devices, increasingly more compacts, flexible and with low cost, led to a new line of research of great interest from both academic and technological views, that is the study and development of textile substrates that can be applied in the development of planar circuits, for applications in the areas of security, biomedical and telecommunications. This paper proposes the development of planar circuits, such as antennas , frequency selective surfaces (FSS) and planar filters, using textile (cotton ticking, jeans and brim santista) as the dielectric substrate and the Pure Copper Polyester Taffeta Fabric, a textile of pure copper, highly conductive, lightweight and flexible, commercially sold as a conductive material. The electrical characteristics of textiles (electric permittivity and loss tangent) were characterized using the transmission line method (rectangular waveguide) and compared with those found in the literature. The structures were analyzed using commercial software Ansoft Designer and Ansoft HFSS, both from the company Ansys and for comparison we used the Iterative Method of Waves (WCIP). For the purpose of validation were built and measured several prototypes of antennas, planar filters and FSS, being possible to confirm an excellent agreement between simulated and measured results

Caracterização do efluente líquido no processo de beneficiamento do índigo têxtil

The great diversity of the textile industries activities causes the formation of wastewaters with high complex characteristics during the productive process, according to the industrial process used. The principal aim of the present work is the characterization of the wastewater from the textile industry that process the indigo, located in the Industrial District of Natal-RN, to know the contaminante load of each stage of the process and the framing of the wastewater with the standards of act of receiving of the System of Treatment of Wastewater of the Industrial District of Natal-RN SITEL-DIN, operated for the Company of Waters and Sewers of the RN CAERN. It was analyzed the following properties and pollutants agents: temperature; pH; alcalinity; color; COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand); total and suspended solids; heavy metals, thermotolerants coliformes, turbidity, dissolved oxygen and electrical conductivity. As conclusion it is distinguished that the wastewater did not get resulted satisfactory, according to comparisons with other sources, in only three parameters: turbidity, dissolved oxygen and electrical conductivity, however none of these parameters is criteria of acts of receiving of the SITEL-DIN,therefore the wastewater if finds inside of normality. After the analysis of the obtained results it was verified that SITEL-DIN is indispensable for completing the wastewater treatment

Fabricação de malha de trama utilizada como pré-formas na indústria de compósitos e avaliação das propriedades mecânicas

In the manufacture of composite, textile materials are being used as reinforcement. Generally, the combination of the matrix with the textile material in the form of fibres or yarns is used depending on their distribution in the web. In the present work, in place of fibres or yarns, a knitted structure in the form of the final product which is defined as preform. The preform is weft knit manufactured with polyester filaments. In the manufacture of composite, polyester resin was used as matrix. The physical and mechanical properties as well as the formability of the weft knit were analysed. The physical and mechanical properties as well as the formability of the knitted structure were analysed. The results obtained on the analysis show that the courses and wales of the weft knit structure and the tensile properties help the formability of the structure and the impregnation of the resin. It could be clearly observed that composite structure in the direction of the courses support more tension than in the direction of the wales. In relation to the three points flexural tests it was possible to note that there was more flexion in the direction of wales, what was expected. It was also possible to note that there are other advantages such as reduction in the loss of materials used, homogeneity in the distribution of the knitted structure in the mould, reduction in the preparation time and also in the reduction in the cost of manufacture

Análise tribológica das malhas multifuncionais obtidas por multicamadas

The present work consists in the analysis of tribologycal properties of basic and multifunctional knitted fabrics. This knowledge has fundamental importance for the textile industry since it can quantify, in an objective way, the tactil. The fabrics used were characterized by friction and mechanical tests for determining the viscoelastic region, wear resistance and friction coefficient of the fabrics used. The stress-strain curve was obtained by the method Kawabata, KES-FB1. Wear tests performed with the aid of equipment Martindale. The measurement of friction coefficient, two methods were used and analyzed comparatively. The first was a method already established worldwide known as KES-FB4 and the second was an innovative method called FRICTORQ, developed by the University of Minho. These two methods were compared taking into account the relative motion between the tribologycal pairs are different from each method. While the first motion is translational, the second is rotational. It was formal that the knitted had a multifunctional fabrics tribologycal performance which was better than the basic knitted fabrics, as the viscoelastic region, was laager highlighting a multifunctional structure, with greater wear resistance mainly on the back side of the knitted fabrics and lower friction coefficient. Performing a comparative analysis between two methods used to measure the friction coefficient, it was formal that both methods were consistent in terms of results. In operational terms, the FRICTORQ showed ease of operation and increased reproducibility of results

Eletrofiação e caracterização de membranas biopoliméricas a base de quitosana extraídas dos exoesqueletos de crustáceos

Chitin and chitosan are nontoxic, biodegradable and biocompatible polymers produced by renewable natural sources with applications in diverse areas such as: agriculture, textile, pharmaceutical, cosmetics and biomaterials, such as gels, films and other polymeric membranes. Both have attracted greater interest of scientists and researchers as functional polymeric materials. In this context, the objective of this study was to take advantage of the waste of shrimp (Litopenaeus vannamei and Aristeus antennatus) and crabs (Ucides cordatus) from fairs, beach huts and restaurant in Natal/RN for the extraction of chitin and chitosan for the production of membranes by electrospinning process. The extraction was made through demineralization, deproteinization, deodorization and deacetylation. Morphological analyzes (SEM and XRD), Thermal analysis (TG and DTG), Spectroscopy in the Region of the Infrared with Transformed of Fourier (FTIR) analysis Calorimetry Differential Scanning (DSC) and mechanical tests for traction were performed. In (XRD) the semicrystalline structure of chitosan can be verified while the chitin had higher crystallinity. In the thermal analysis showed a dehydration process followed by decomposition, with similar behavior of carbonized material. Chitosan showed temperature of maximum degradation lower than chitin. In the analysis by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) the curves were coherent to the thermal events of the chitosan membranes. The results obtained with (DD) for chitosan extracted from Litopenaeus vannamei and Aristeus antennatus shrimp were (80.36 and 71.00%) and Ucides cordatus crabs was 74.65%. It can be observed that, with 70:30 solutions (v/v) (TFA/DCM), 60 and 90% CH3COOH, occurred better facilitate the formation of membranes, while 100:00 (v/v) (TFA/DCM) had formation of agglomerates. In relation to the monofilaments diameters of the chitosan membranes, it was noted that the capillary-collector distance of 10 cm and tensions of 25 and 30 kV contributed to the reduction of the diameters of membranes. It was found that the Young s modulus decreases with increasing concentration of chitosan in the membranes. 90% CH3COOH contributed to the increase in the deformation resulting in more flexible material. The membranes with 5% chitosan 70:30 (v/v) (TFA/DCM) had higher tensile strength

Estudo da flamabilidade e resistência à chama de compósito de poliéster insaturado e fibra da folha do abacaxizeiro (PALF)

In the present research work, composites were prepared using pine apple leaf fibres (PALF) as reinforcement with unsaturated polyester resin as matrix, incorporating with fire retardant at different compositions. The PALF was obtained from the decortication of pine apple leaves obtained from Ramada 4 from Ielmo Marinho in the State of Rio Grande do Norte. The unsaturated polyester resin and the catalyzer were bought from the local establishment. The fire retardant, aluminium tri-hydroxide - Al(OH)3 was donated by Alcoa Alumínio S.A and was used in the proportions of 20%, 40% and 60% w/w. Initially the fibres were treated with 2% NaOH for 1 hour, to remove any impurities present on the fibre surface, such as wax, fat, pectin and pectate, in order to have a better adsorption of the fibres with the matrix as well as the flame retardant. The fibre mat was prepared in a mat preparator by immersion, developed in the Textile Engineering Laboratory, at the UFRN. The composites (300x300x3 mm) were prepared by compression molding and the samples (150x25x3 mm) for analysis of the properties were cut randomly using a laser cutter. Some of the cut samples were used to measure the smoke emission and fire resistance using UL94 standard. Mechanical tension-extension and flexural properties were carried in CTGás RN and the Laboratório de Metais e Ensaios Mecânicos Engenharia de Materiais UFRN , as well as SEM studies were carried out at Núcleo de Estudos em Petróleo e Gás Natural - UFRN . From the observed results, it was noted that, there was no marked influence of the fire retardant on the mechanical properties. Also in the water absorption test, the quantity of water absorbed was less in the sample with higher concentration of fire retardant. It was also observed that the increase in the proportion of the fire retardant increased the time of burning, may be due to the compactness of the composite due to the presence of fire retardant as a filling material even though it was meant to reduce the rate of inflammability of the composite

Desenvolvimento de uma desfribadeira para obtenção da fibra da folha do abacaxi

In 1998 the first decorticator was developed in the Textile Engineering Laboratory and patented for the purpose of extracting fibres from pineapple leaves, with the financial help from CNPq and BNB. The objective of the present work was to develop an automatic decorticator different from the first one with a semiautomatic system of decortication with automatic feeding of the leaves and collection of the extracted fibres. The system is started through a command system that passes information to two engines, one for starting the beater cylinder and the other for the feeding of the leaves as well as the extraction of the decorticated fibres automatically. This in turn introduces the leaves between a knife and a beater cylinder with twenty blades (the previous one had only 8 blades). These blades are supported by equidistant flanges with a central transmission axis that would help in increasing the number of beatings of the leaves. In the present system the operator has to place the leaves on the rotating endless feeding belt and collect the extracted leaves that are being carried out through another endless belt. The pulp resulted form the extraction is collected in a tray through a collector. The feeding of the leaves as well as the extraction of the fibres is controlled automatically by varying the velocity of the cylinders. The semi-automatic decorticator basically composed of a chassis made out of iron bars (profile L) with 200cm length, 91 cm of height 68 cm of width. The decorticator weighs around 300Kg. It was observed that the increase in the number of blades from 8 to twenty in the beater cylinder reduced the turbulence inside the decorticator, which helped to improve the removal of the fibres without any problems as well as the quality of the fibres. From the studies carried out, from each leaf 2,8 to 4,5% of fibres can be extracted. This gives around 4 to 5 tons of fibres per hectare, which is more than that of cotton production per hectare. This quantity with no doubt could generate jobs to the people not only on the production of the fibres but also on their application in different areas

Compósito reforçado com sisal para aplicação na moda

The objective of this research is the fabrication of a composite reinforced with dyed sisal fiber and polyester matrix for application in the fields such as, fashion, clothing, interior textiles; fashion accessories are some of the examples. For the fabrication of the composite, the sisal fibers were subjected to processes such as: chemical treatment with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) in the removal of impurities; bleaching for removing the yellowish color of the natural fiber and dyeing with direct dyes to confer the colors blue, green and orange. The search for new technologies ecologically correct has become a major concern in recent decades. Studies show that composite polymer reinforced by natural fibers is suitable for a large number of applications, and its use is advantageous in terms of economic and ecological. The dyed fibers were cut to a length of 30 mm, is used in the confection of webs. For this purpose, a web preparer by immersion, developed in the Laboratory of Chemical Textile of UFRN. The composite sheets measuring 300 x 300 x3 mm were molded by compression, with unsaturated orthophthalic polyester as matrix, and the samples in sizes 150 x 25 x 3 mm were cut with the aid of a laser machine, to be subjected to traction and flexion. The mechanical properties of traction and flexion in three points were performed in the Laboratory of metal and mechanical tests of Materials Engineering of UFRN. The resulting samples from the tests were evaluated in scanning electron microscope (SEM) at CTGas RN. On the basis of the analysis of the results from the mechanical tests, it was observed that the composite had good mechanical behavior, both in traction as in flexion. Furthermore, it was observed that in the water absorption test, the samples had a different percentage among themselves, this occurred due to the variation of density found in the fibre webs. The images of the SEM showed the failures from the manufacturing process and the adhesion of fibre/matrix. When the samples were prepared with the dyed fibers to be applied in fashion, the results were positive, and it can be concluded that the main objective of this work was achieved

Estudo comparativo das propriedades mecânicas em compósitos da fibra modal e poliester

In the present work, three composites with distinct reinforcements (polyester, modal e polyester + modal), all if a unsaturated orthophthalic polyester resin as matrix were used, in order to conduct a comparative study by mechanical tests and water absorption. The fibre mats were prepared in a mat preparatory by immersion developed in the Textile Engineering Laboratory. The composites were manufactured using a closed mould process by compression using an unsaturated orthophthalic polyester resin as matrix and 1% MEK (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) as an initiator. In each composite twelve samples with the dimensions of 150x25x3 mm were cut randomly for the mechanical analysis (tension x extension, three points bending and water absorption and Scanning Electron Micsroscopy). The mechanical tests were carried out in the Laboratório de Metais e Ensaios Mecânicos UFRN . All the analyses were carried out according to the ASTM norms. The resultant samples from the mechanical analysis were subjected for the Scanning Electron Microscopy analysis. Based on the results obtained, it was observed that the reinforced composite with two fibres (modal + polyester) presented better results in comparison to the other two composites both in the tension/extension as well on the three point bending tests. In the water absorption test, it was possible to observe an equilibrium in the water absorption by the modal and polyester composite, due to the union of the two fibres. In the SEM images, the regions of rupture in the composites as well as the adsorption between the fiber and the matrix could be observed

Desenvolvimento de têxteis técnicos para reforço de compósitos poliméricos

Materials denominated technical textiles can be defined as structures designed and developed with function to fulfill specific functional requirements of various industrial sectors as are the cases of the automotive and aerospace industries. In this aspect the technical textiles are distinguished from conventional textile materials, in which the aesthetic and of comfort needs are of primordial importance. Based on these considerations, the subject of this dissertation was established having as its main focus the study of development of textile structures from aramid and glass fibers and acting in order to develop the manufacture of composite materials that combine properties of two different structures, manufactured in an identical operation, where each structure contributes to improving the properties of the resulting composite material. Therefore were created in laboratory scale, textile structures with low weight and different composition: aramid (100%), glass (100%) and aramid /glass (65/35%), in order to use them as a reinforcing element in composite materials with polyester matrix. These composites were tested in tension and its fracture surface, evaluated by MEV. Based on the analysis of mechanical properties of the developed composites, the efficiency of the structures prepared as reinforcing element were testified by reason of that the resistance values of the composites are far superior to the polyester matrix. It was also observed that hybridization in tissue structure was efficient, since the best results obtained were for hybrid composites, where strength to the rupture was similar to the steel 1020, reaching values on the order of 340 MPa

Fabricação de eco-composito com a fibra de lã canina

The Sustainability has been evidence in the world today; organizations have sought to be more and more into this philosophy in their processes, whether products or attendance. In the present work were manufactured eco-composites with animal fiber (dog wool) that is currently discarded into the environment without any use. The fibers were characterized and made matting (non-woven). The phases of the project were consisted to develop methods and to convert these fibers (booster) blended with polyester resin (matrix) in different proportions (10%, 20% and 30%) at the composite. Were studied fiber characteristics, mechanical properties of the composites, water absorption and scanning electron microscopy. Initially, the fibers were treated with solution of sodium hydroxide of 0.05 mols, and then taken to matting preparing at the textile engineering laboratory - UFRN. The composites were made by compression molding, using an orthophthalic polyester resin as matrix and 1% MEK (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) as initiator (catalyst). To evaluate the mechanical tests (tensile and flexural) and water absorption were made twelve specimens with dimensions 150x25x3 mm were cut randomly. According to the standard method, tensile tests (ASTM 3039) bending tests (ASTM D790) were performed at the mechanical testing of metals at laboratory UFRN. The results of these tests showed that the composite reinforced with 30% had a better behavior when exposed to tension charge; while on the three points bending test showed that the composite reinforced with 10% had a better behavior. In the water absorption test it was possible to see that the highest absorption happened on the composite reinforced with 30%. In the micrographs, it was possible to see the regions of rupture and behavior of the composite (booster / matrix)