The Fashion Studies Book

The Fashion Book is an exciting, readable and comprehensive, all-in-one resource for students of fashion across the English-speaking world. It is designed as an introduction to fashion studies that can be used in a range of fashion courses from fashion studies degrees to fashion modules, and majors in disciplines including cultural studies, cultural sociology, cultural geography, communications and media, anthropology and cultural history. The book will present current writings and research on major topics debates in fashion studies drawing on the literature on fashion theory and incorporating many global case studies (as easy-to-read boxed material). Graphs, tables and diagrams will add texture to the written material. Approximately 200 colour images are planned to generously illustrate the historical and the contemporary tapestry of fashion. A dedicated interactive website will complement the text and ensure that students are in touch with the latest news, issues and trends.

Computational Identification of Recessive Mutations in Cancers using High Throughput SNP-arrays

This thesis presents a highly sensitive genome wide search method for recessive mutations. The method is suitable for distantly related samples that are divided into phenotype positives and negatives. High throughput genotype arrays are used to identify and compare homozygous regions between the cohorts. The method is demonstrated by comparing colorectal cancer patients against unaffected references. The objective is to find homozygous regions and alleles that are more common in cancer patients. We have designed and implemented software tools to automate the data analysis from genotypes to lists of candidate genes and to their properties. The programs have been designed in respect to a pipeline architecture that allows their integration to other programs such as biological databases and copy number analysis tools. The integration of the tools is crucial as the genome wide analysis of the cohort differences produces many candidate regions not related to the studied phenotype. CohortComparator is a genotype comparison tool that detects homozygous regions and compares their loci and allele constitutions between two sets of samples. The data is visualised in chromosome specific graphs illustrating the homozygous regions and alleles of each sample. The genomic regions that may harbour recessive mutations are emphasised with different colours and a scoring scheme is given for these regions. The detection of homozygous regions, cohort comparisons and result annotations are all subjected to presumptions many of which have been parameterized in our programs. The effect of these parameters and the suitable scope of the methods have been evaluated. Samples with different resolutions can be balanced with the genotype estimates of their haplotypes and they can be used within the same study.

Two-dimensional heat conduction with phase change in a semi-infinite mould

Analytical solution of a 2-dimensional problem of solidification of a superheated liquid in a semi-infinite mould has been studied in this paper. On the boundary, the prescribed temperature is such that the solidification starts simultaneously at all points of the boundary. Results are also given for the 2-dimensional ablation problem. The solution of the heat conduction equation has been obtained in terms of multiple Laplace integrals involving suitable unknown fictitious initial temperatures. These fictitious initial temperatures have interesting physical interpretations. By choosing suitable series expansions for fictitious initial temperatures and moving interface boundary, the unknown quantities can be determined. Solidification thickness has been calculated for short time and effect of parameters on the solidification thickness has been shown with the help of graphs.

Natural frequencies of circumferentially truncated sector plates with simply supported straight edges

The classical Rayleigh-Ritz method in conjunction with suitable co-ordinate transformations is found to be effective for accurate estimation of natural frequencies of circumferentially truncated circular sector plates with simply supported straight edges. Numerical results are obtained for all the nine combinations of clamped, simply supported and free boundary conditions at the circular edges and presented in the form of graphs. The analysis confirms an earlier observation that the plate behaves like a long rectangular strip as the width of the plate in the radial direction becomes small.

Block- and strand-multiplexing for fast computation of a class of transforms

The transforms dealt with in this paper are defined in terms of the transform kernels which are Kroneeker products of the two or more component kernels. The signal flow-graph for the computation of such a transform is obtained with the flow-graphs for the component transforms as building blocks.

Human trafficking heroes and villains: Representing the problem in anti-trafficking awareness campaigns

Since the declaration by the United Nations that awareness raising should be a key part of efforts to combat human trafficking, government and non-government organisations have produced numerous public awareness campaigns designed to capture the public’s attention and sympathy. These campaigns represent the ‘problem’ of trafficking in specific ways, creating heroes and villains by placing the blame for trafficking on some, while obscuring the responsibility of others. This paper adopts Carol Bacchi’s ‘What is the problem represented to be?’ framework for examining the politicisation of problem representation in 18 anti-trafficking awareness campaigns. It is argued that these campaigns construct a narrow understanding of the problem through the depiction of ‘ideal offenders’. In particular, a strong focus on the demand for commercial sex as causative of human trafficking serves to obscure the problematic role of consumerism in a wide range of industries, and perpetuates an understanding of trafficking that fails to draw a necessary distinction between the demand for labour, and the demand for ‘exploitable’ labour. This problem representation also obscures the role governments in destination countries may play in causing trafficking through imposing restrictive migration regimes that render migrants vulnerable to traffickers.

Interaction of DNA with anti-cancer drugs: copper-thiosemicarbazide system

The interaction of copper-thiosemicarbazide complexes with DNA was investigated using ultraviolet and infrared spectroscopy. Evidence for the interaction of the complexes with nucleic acid bases and with the phosphate group is presented.

An ethnobotanical study of traditional anti-inflammatory plants used by the Lohit community of Arunachal Pradesh, India

Aim of the study: Most people especially in rural areas depend on herbal medicines to treat many diseases including inflammation-related ailments such as rheumatism, muscle swelling, cut wound, accidental bone fracture, insect bites, pains and burn by fire and hot water. The objectives of this study were: to catalog ethno-medicinal plants of Lohit community, ecological status, indigenous folk medicinal uses, morphological parts used and to determine their reported pharmacological studies. Materials and methods: The ethnobotanical information on traditional medicinal plants exclusively used for management of inflammation-related ailments by the Khampti community of Arunachal Pradesh, India was based on first-hand field survey work through semi-structured interviews. Results and conclusion: A total of 34 species in 32 genera and 22 families were encountered during the field survey. Botanical families such as Asteraceae, Euphorbiaceae, Zingiberaceae and Lamiaceae were represented by the highest numbers of species reported in this study. Thirteen plant species, namely: Bombax ceiba, Canarium strictum, Chloranthus erectus, Xanthium indicum, Lycopodium clavatum, Coleus blumei, Batrachospermum atrum, Chlorella vulgaris, Marchantia palmata, Marchantia polymorpha, Eria pannea, Sterculia villosa and Alpinia galanga are reported for the first time for the treatment of inflammation-related diseases.

Synthesis of neoglycoconjugates and oligosaccharides with potential anti-Helicobacter pylori activity

The significance of carbohydrate-protein interactions in many biological phenomena is now widely acknowledged and carbohydrate based pharmaceuticals are under intensive development. The interactions between monomeric carbohydrate ligands and their receptors are usually of low affinity. To overcome this limitation natural carbohydrate ligands are often organized as multivalent structures. Therefore, artificial carbohydrate pharmaceuticals should be constructed on the same concept, as multivalent carbohydrates or glycoclusters. Infections of specific host tissues by bacteria, viruses, and fungi are among the unfavorable disease processes for which suitably designed carbohydrate inhibitors represent worthy targets. The bacterium Helicobacter pylori colonizes more than half of all people worldwide, causing gastritis, gastric ulcer, and conferring a greater risk of stomach cancer. The present medication therapy for H. pylori includes the use of antibiotics, which is associated with increasing incidence of bacterial resistance to traditional antibiotics. Therefore, the need for an alternative treatment method is urgent. In this study, four novel synthesis procedures of multivalent glycoconjugates were created. Three different scaffolds representing linear (chondroitin oligomer), cyclic (γ-cyclodextrin), and globular (dendrimer) molecules were used. Multivalent conjugates were produced using the human milk type oligosaccharides LNDFH I (Lewis-b hexasaccharide), LNnT (Galβ1-4GlcNAcβ1-3Galβ1-4Glc), and GlcNAcβ1-3Galβ1-4GlcNAcβ1-3Galβ1-4Glc all representing analogues of the tissue binding epitopes for H. pylori. The first synthetic method included the reductive amination of scaffold molecules modified to express primary amine groups, and in the case of dendrimer direct amination to scaffold molecule presenting 64 primary amine groups. The second method described a direct procedure for amidation of glycosylamine modified oligosaccharides to scaffold molecules presenting carboxyl groups. The final two methods that were created both included an oxime-linkage on linkers of different length. All the new synthetic procedures synthesized had the advantage of using unmodified reducing sugars as starting material making it easy to synthesize glycoconjugates of different specificity. In addition, the binding activity of an array of neoglycolipids to H. pylori was studied. Consequently, two new neolacto-based structures, Glcβ1-3Galβ1-4GlcNAcβ1-3Galβ1-4Glcβ1-Cer and GlcAβ1-3Galβ1-4GlcNAcβ1-3Galβ1-4Glcβ1-Cer, with binding activity toward H. pylori were discovered. Interestingly, N-methyl and N-ethyl amide modification of the GlcAβ1-3Galβ1-4GlcNAcβ1-3Galβ1-4Glcβ1-Cer glucuronic acid residue resulted in more effective H. pylori binding epitopes than the parent molecule.

Realities on the ground: Human trafficking constructs in Thailand and the implications on NGO anti-trafficking prevention strategies

This thesis is a qualitative study that examines how participating staff from Thai based non-governmental organisations interpret and construct the notion of human trafficking; and how this impacts prevention methods. The research examined the impact of different socio-cultural, political and religious ideologies on anti-trafficking prevention and programme implementation. Findings highlighted that while a 'raid and rescue' approach to human trafficking was widely recognised by donors and the media; it was not suitable or complementary to sustainable and community focused anti-trafficking models. Rather, a holistic approach that considers contextual factors and inter-agency collaboration is essential for effective anti-trafficking prevention strategies.

Using a glow graph to represent data flow and dependency in event logs

The idea of extracting knowledge in process mining is a descendant of data mining. Both mining disciplines emphasise data flow and relations among elements in the data. Unfortunately, challenges have been encountered when working with the data flow and relations. One of the challenges is that the representation of the data flow between a pair of elements or tasks is insufficiently simplified and formulated, as it considers only a one-to-one data flow relation. In this paper, we discuss how the effectiveness of knowledge representation can be extended in both disciplines. To this end, we introduce a new representation of the data flow and dependency formulation using a flow graph. The flow graph solves the issue of the insufficiency of presenting other relation types, such as many-to-one and one-to-many relations. As an experiment, a new evaluation framework is applied to the Teleclaim process in order to show how this method can provide us with more precise results when compared with other representations.

Tryst with a molecular and supramolecular oddity: an anti-Furst-Plattner epoxide opening product as a designer additive for accessing an elusive polymorph

Additive induced polymorphism of a conformationally locked tetraacetate 3 in presence of its diastereomer 4 is described. The ester 3 was specially crafted on a trans-decalin backbone to relegate the O-H center dot center dot center dot O H-bond donors to the molecular interior and have the peripheral H-bond acceptors in 1,3-syndiaxial relationship. The supramolecular assembly of 3 was destined to evolve along two mutually exclusive pathways, namely one, which employs intermolecular O-H center dot center dot center dot O H-bonds (pathway 1) and the other that sacrifices these for intramolecular O-H center dot center dot center dot O H-bonds and settles for a crystal packing dictated by weak intermolecular interactions alone (pathway 2). Exploiting the similarity between the self-assemblies of 4 and the two recently reported dimorphs of 3, the ester 3 has been stimulated to follow the elusive non-hierarchical pathway 2 through preferential inhibition of pathway 1. Interestingly, the inhibitor 4 was obtained serendipitously en route 3 via an apparent breakdown of Furst-Plattner rule.

Evaluation of anti-inflammatory potential of Chloranthus erectus (Buch.-Ham.) Verd. leaf extract in rats

Aim of the study: Chloranthus erectus (Buch.-Ham.) Verdcourt (Chloranthaceae) is a shrub native to tropical and temperate zone of Eastern Himalaya of India and South-East Asia and have traditionally been used as a folklore medicine to treat localised swelling, joint pain, skin inflammation, fever and bodyache. In this study, an attempthas been made to demonstrate the anti-inflammatory activity of methanol extract obtained from Chloranthus erectus leaves (MECEL) in acute, sub-acute and chronic mouse models. Materials and methods: Inflammation in the hind paw of Wistar albino rat was induced by carrageenan, histamine and serotonin, and tissue granuloma pouch was induced by cotton pellet method. Antiinflammatory drug-phenylbutazone was used as standard drug for comparison. Results: In acute carrageenan-induced rat hind paw edema, oral administration of MECEL at 200 mg/kg produced significant inhibition of edema by 38.34 % (p<0.01) while the histamine- and serotonin-induced sub-acute model, the inhibition of paw edema reached 52.54 % (p < 0.001) and 25.5 % (p < 0.01), respectively. in a 7-day study, MECEL at 20 and 50 mg/kg produced significant suppression of cotton pellet-induced tissue granuloma formation in rats. Conclusions: This preliminary study revealed that the methanol extract of Chloranthus erectus exhibited significant anti-inflammatory activity in the tested models, and may provide the scientific rationale for its popular folk medicine as anti-inflammatory agent.

Temperature independent mixing rules to correlate the solubilities of antibiotics and anti-inflammatory drugs in SCCO2

The accurate experimental determination of the solubilities of antibiotics and anti-inflammatory drugs in supercritical fluids (SCFs) and correlations are essential for the development of supercritical technologies for the pharmaceuticals industry. In this work, the solubilities of penicillinG, penicillinV, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, naproxen, ibuprofen, aspirin and diflunisal in supercritical carbon dioxide (SCCO2) were correlated using Peng-Robinson equation of state (PR EOS) with the modified Kwak and Mansoori mixing rules (mKM) and with Bartle model. The ability of mKM rules was compared against the conventional mixing rules of van der Waals in correlating the solubilities. In the present model, vapor pressure was considered as an adjustable parameter along with binary interactions parameters. In the proposed model, the constants used in the mixing rule, and vapor pressure expression coefficients are temperature independent. The optimization of these constants with experimental data gives binary interaction parameters along with vapor pressure correlations. Sublimation enthalpies were estimated with both the models compared with literature reported experimental values.