One-way water-transport cotton fabrics with enhanced cooling effect

Two types of directional water transport fabrics are prepared by using cotton fabric as substrate and an electrospraying technique to apply a hydrophobic coating on one side of the fabric. The main difference between the two electrosprayed fabrics is that one of them was precoated with a hydrophilic thermoconductive resin over the fiber surface prior to electrospraying. As a result, the precoated fabric has a much higher thermoconductivity than the other, while they are similar in water transport and fibrous structure. In the wet state, the directional water-transport fabrics generate a temperature difference between the two fabric sides while drying naturally. The fabric with higher thermal conductivity shows smaller temperature difference, better thermal transfer within the fabric, stronger evaporation cooling effect, and accelerated moisture evaporation. Directional water transport fabrics with high thermal conductivity may be used to mitigate thermal burden in sportswear, summer clothing, medical fabrics, and workwear.

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Natural Disasters and Comparative State-Formation and Nation-Building: Earthquakes in Argentina and Chile (1822-1939)

Natural disasters in Argentina and Chile played a significant role in the state-formation and nation-building process (1822-1939). This dissertation explores state and society responses to earthquakes by studying public and private relief efforts reconstruction plans, crime and disorder, religious interpretations of catastrophes, national and transnational cultures of disaster, science and technology, and popular politics. Although Argentina and Chile share a political border and geological boundary, the two countries provide contrasting examples of state formation. Most disaster relief and reconstruction efforts emanated from the centralized Chilean state in Santiago. In Argentina, provincial officials made the majority of decisions in a catastrophe’s aftermath. Patriotic citizens raised money and collected clothing for survivors that helped to weave divergent regions together into a nation. The shared experience of earthquakes in all regions of Chile created a national disaster culture. Similarly, common disaster experiences, reciprocal relief efforts, and aid commissions linked Chileans with Western Argentine societies and generated a transnational disaster culture. Political leaders viewed reconstruction as opportunities to implement their visions for the nation on the urban landscape. These rebuilding projects threatened existing social hierarchies and often failed to come to fruition. Rebuilding brought new technologies from Europe to the Southern Cone. New building materials and systems, however, had to be adapted to the South American economic and natural environment. In a catastrophe’s aftermath, newspapers projected images of disorder and the authorities feared lawlessness and social unrest. Judicial and criminal records, however, show that crime often decreased after a disaster. Finally, nineteenth-century earthquakes heightened antagonism and conflict between the Catholic Church and the state. Conservative clergy asserted that disasters were divine punishments for the state’s anti-clerical measures and later railed against scientific explanations of earthquakes.

Emergency and Transitional Shelters [Literature Review]

Over the past two decades the number of recorded disasters has doubled from approximately 200 to over 400 disasters per year. Such an increase in the frequency of disasters has not been without consequence, producing ever-greater waves of population displacements throughout the developing world. The United Nation’s Inter-Agency Standing Committee (IASC) responsible for the coordination of international humanitarian responses states unequivocally that populations displaced by disaster have a right to protection and the provision of basic necessities such as adequate food, water, clothing, sanitation, and essential health services (IASC, 2006 and The Sphere Project, 2011). Shelter responses are often a vital node around which many of these humanitarian concerns are addressed. This document is a review of 3 case studies, 6 field reports, 1 concept paper, 16 guidelines, 1 call for proposals, and 4 strategic framework documents prepared by organizations active in the humanitarian shelter sector on emergency and transitional shelters. While emergency shelter response is focused primarily on protection and relief during and immediately after a disaster has occurred, the transitional shelter approach emphasizes integrating disaster response into an immediate transition towards reconstruction, recovery, and sustainable development.

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Work, class and conflict: a comparative study of three Cork factories, incorporating oral testimony

This dissertation presents a comparative study of three factories in Cork Harbour area, Sunbeam Wolsey (1927-90), Irish Steel (1939-2001) and the Ford Marina Plant (1917-84). All three factories were significant industrial employers in both a domestic (Irish) and a local (Cork) context and are broadly representative of the Irish manufacturing industry that was developed under the policies of tariff protection introduced in the 1930s and gradually phased out between the late 1950s and the mid-1980s. Sunbeam Wolsey was a textile and clothing concern located on the north side of Cork City that possessed a borderline monopoly within its economic sector and was among the largest private employers of female labour in twentieth century Ireland. Irish Steel was the country’s only steel mill, located on Haulbowline island, a brief ferry-ride from the seaside town of Cobh, and was unusual in being one of the few manufacturing concerns operated as a nationalised industry under the auspices of the state. The Ford Marina plant predated the introduction of protectionism by more than a decade and began as the centre of the Ford empire’s tractor manufacturing business, before switching to the production of private motor vehicles for the Irish market in 1932. All three industries were closed or sold off when the state withdrew support, either in the form of tariff protection (Ford, Sunbeam) or direct funding (Irish Steel). While devoting much attention to the three firms, the central concern of this dissertation is not the companies themselves (though the economic history portion of the dissertation is substantial), but the workers they employed, examining the lives of these individuals both as members of the Irish working class, and, more specifically, as employees of the three factories under consideration. The project can be best described as a comparative factory study, comparing and contrasting the three workforces, focusing primarily on industrial relation and the experience of work. This dissertation utilises both documentary evidence and a significant quantity of oral testimony, breaking new ground by making the workplace the central focus of its investigation. The principal aims of the study are: 1. To document the lives of those who worked in these factories, capturing through oral testimony their subjective experiences of social class and factory life, as well as differences among narrators in terms of gender and status. In achieving this aim, the study will provide a broader social context for its detailed analysis of work and industrial relations in each firm. 2. To analyse the three workplaces and determine how and why each developed such distinct systems of industrial relations at the factory level, as well as to compare and contrast these systems. 3. To examine the nature of work in each factory and to determine how work and industrial relations in each firm developed over time, relating these changes both to internal and external factors. Additionally, the project will provide a comparative analysis of these changes.

Heat and moisture transfer through silkworm cocoon walls.

A silkworm cocoon is a biological porous structure which provides multiple protective functions. The knowledge from this natural protective system could contribute to develop advanced materials and structures with superior performances and meet the human demanding of novel breathable materials for enhanced thermal protection and comfort.

Bifacial fabric structures and properties.

Novel bifacial fabrics, with a woven structure on one face and a knitted structure on the other, were developed and produced on a purpose-built machine using conventional fibres. Bifacial fabrics have two breakages in warp and weft directions, and better thermal comfort properties than traditional woven and knitted fabrics.

Hygienic practices among food vendors in educational institutions in Ghana: the case of Konongo

With the booming street food industry in the developing world there is an urgent need to ensure food vendors adhere to hygienic practices to protect public health. This study assessed the adherence to food hygiene practices by food vendors in educational institutions in Konongo, Ghana. Structured questionnaires, extensive observation and interviews were used for the study involving 60 food vendors from 20 basic schools. Attributable to the influence of school authorities and the level of in-training of food vendors, the study points out that food vendors in educational institutions generally adhered to good food hygiene practices, namely, regular medical examination (93%), protection of food from flies and dust (55%); proper serving of food (100%); good hand hygiene (63%); and the use of personal protective clothing (52%). The training of food vendors on food hygiene, instead of the level of education had a significant association (p < 0.05) with crucial food hygiene practices such as medical examination, hand hygiene and protection of food from flies and dust. Further, regulatory bodies legally mandated to efficiently monitor the activities of food vendors lacked the adequate capacity to do so. The study proposes that efforts should be geared towards developing training programmes for food vendors as well as capacity building of the stakeholders.

2016 Eastern Equine Encephalitis Activity

Eastern equine encephalitis virus (EEEV) is transmitted to humans by the bite of an infected mosquito. Eastern equine encephalitis (EEE) is a rare illness in humans, and only a few cases are reported in the United States each year. Most cases occur in the Atlantic and Gulf Coast states. Most people infected with EEEV have no apparent illness. Severe cases of EEE (involving encephalitis, an inflammation of the brain) begin with the sudden onset of headache, high fever, chills, and vomiting. The illness may then progress into disorientation, seizures, or coma. EEE virus is one of the most severe mosquito transmitted diseases in the United States with approximately 33% mortality and significant brain damage in most survivors. There is no specific treatment for EEE; care is based on symptoms. You can reduce your risk of being infected with EEEV by using insect repellent, wearing protective clothing, and staying indoors while mosquitoes are most active.

El futuro de la ropa ecológica en Colombia a partir de las tendencias desarrolladas en Reino Unido y Suecia y su impacto ambiental

Durante los últimos años, los consumidores han tomado conciencia acerca del cuidado medio ambiental, obligando a las empresas a realizar modificaciones tanto en sus procesos como en los insumos empleados. Un claro ejemplo de ello es la ropa ecológica, esta industria busca promover la fabricación de prendas de vestir a partir de insumos orgánicos y/o reciclados, minimizando desperdicios e impacto durante su proceso de producción. Actualmente, hay varias empresas que han empezado a fabricar este tipo de prendas, especialmente en Europa, siendo Suecia y Reino Unido los más representativos. El presente trabajo estudió la factibilidad de la ropa ecológica en Colombia, tomando como punto de referencia los países mencionados. Para lograrlo, se realizaron encuestas a una muestra representativa, al igual que un análisis detallado sobre la producción y tendencias de consumo de la ropa ecológica en Bogotá, Colombia. Además, mediante las encuestas aplicadas, se estudió el comportamiento del consumidor colombiano y se realizó un comparativo frente a estudios desarrollados en países europeos en los últimos años. En conclusión, se encontró que a pesar de la ausencia de empresas y tiendas enfocadas en dicha industria, el consumidor colombiano estaría dispuesto a comprar ropa ecológica. A lo largo del documento, se explica con detalle las características que buscan los colombianos al momento de comprar estas prendas, el lugar en donde prefieren hacerlo, el valor que están dispuestos a pagar y las razones o motivos por los cuales realizan estas acciones.

As imagens de vestir da Procissão dos Terceiros: história, conceitos, e tradições. Um legado patrimonial franciscano na ilha de S. Miguel, Açores, nos séculos XVII a XIX

A temática proposta como objeto de estudo na presente tese, é o resultado de uma investigação dedicada ao fenómeno de utilização da imaginária processional nos cortejos de penitência de pendor franciscano, nos séculos XVII a XX na ilha de S. Miguel, Açores. Este tipo de manifestações religiosas, particularmente característico no espaço Iberoamericano, evidencia-se pela originalidade cenográfica, na qual são utilizados vestuário e adereços cénicos como complementos dos respetivos conjuntos escultóricos, as denominadas imagens de vestir. No arquipélago dos Açores, a Venerável Ordem Terceira da Penitência teve um papel de grande importância na organização destes eventos processionais, sendo que as ilhas de S. Miguel e da Terceira representam atualmente um dos últimos redutos na organização de procissões penitenciais, com recurso à utilização de imagens de vestir. No caso especifíco de S. Miguel, este tipo de imaginária pode ser ainda observada nos acervos de algumas das antigas igrejas conventuais da Ordem dos Frades Menores existentes nesta ilha, bem como na única procissão oriunda do espírito penitencial da Ordem Terceira, que se realiza anualmente na cidade da Ribeira Grande. O estudo agora apresentado pretende compreender as diversas componentes da utilização deste tipo de imaginária, bem como o registo do legado patrimonial que os seculares franciscanos perpetuaram até à atualidade, materializado num processo de patrimonialização das suas imagens de vestir, expresso na dicotomia entre os objetos, enquanto matéria, e as suas realidades biográficas, ligadas às comunidades de Terceiros que estiveram por detrás do uso destas imagens processionais; ABSTRACT: Religious sculptures for dressing of the Third Procession: history, concepts, typologies and traditions - A Franciscan heritage legacy in the island of S. Miguel, Azores, between the 17th and 19th centuries. The theme proposed as object of study in this thesis is the result of a research dedicated to the custom of adorning religious sculptures and displaying them in Franciscan penitential processions between the seventeenth and twentieth centuries, in the island of S. Miguel, Azores. This type of religious expression, particularly characteristic in the Ibero-American space, featuring up by scenic originality, in which clothing and scenic props are used to complement the respective sculptural groups, called religious sculptures for dressing. In the Azores, the Venerable Third Order of Penance had a major role in organizing these processional events, and the islands of S. Miguel and Terceira currently represents one of the last holdouts in organizing penitential processions, with the use of religious sculptures for dressing. In the case of S. Miguel, this type of imaginary can still be seen in the collections of some of the ancient Order of the convent churches of the Friars Minor existing on this island, and the only procession coming from the penitential spirit of the Third Order, which is held annually in the city of Ribeira Grande. The study now being presented aims to understand the various components of the use of such imaginary, and the recording of heritage legacy that the Franciscan secular perpetuated to the present day, materialized in a patrimonialization process of their dress images, expressed in the dichotomy between objects, as matter, and their biographical realities, linked to third-party communities that were behind the use of these processional images.

Quality of life in people with leg ulcer, integrative review

Objective: To identify the main changes in the daily life of people with leg ulcer and how that affects the person’s life’s quality. Methodology: We used the methodology PI [C] OD and were selected four research articles, taken from EBSCO, PubMed, and EWMA. Results: The main changes identified in the people’s daily live with leg’s ulcers are physical (pain, decreased mobility, presence of exudate, bad smell from the wound and change in the style of clothing), psychological (sleep disorders, depression, anxiety, feelings of rejection and low self-esteem), social (isolation, restriction in leisure activities, inability to perform household chores). Conclusions: The literature about person’s life’s quality with leg ulcer reported a significant impact in the daily life of that person. The care provided by nurses should be centred on the person itself, integrating all the kind of needs and the leg ulcer mustn’t be the sole focus of care.

EL TURISMO Y LA CONVIVENCIA COMUNAL EN UN ÁREA RURAL-COSTERA

En el presente artículo el lector podrá encontrar algunos aspectos  relacionados  con el turismo como actividad económica y su expresión concreta en las comunidades de Tambor y Montezuma de Cóbano, provincia de Puntarenas, Costa Rica. Pero además y es la parte fundamental del mismo se hace referencia aquí al impacto que ha tenido este sector en la convivencia comunal y cotidianidad de esas comunidades. Este impacto se analiza en tres dimensiones específicas: la socioeconómica, la cultural y la ambiental. En síntesis y como producto de los efectos del turismo, la zona analizada sufre una transformación importante que engloba la convivencia comunal; convivencia que en sus manifestaciones generales coincide en cierta medida con el contexto nacional y mundial, pero que también tiene su particularidad. En este sentido, se nota una re-dimensión en la individualidad de actor y sector social, pero además en la totalidad de la convivencia comunal. Esta re-dimensión, si bien es producto de actividades económicas  de sistemas productivos y de nuevas estrategias de desarrollo globalizantes, se manifiesta en lo social, en lo cultural y en la relación sociedad naturaleza ó ambiente a nivel local, como un producto más divertido de la actividad turística.   Abstract: This paper discusses the effects of the tourism industry in the communities of Tambor and Montezuma, Cobano, province of Puntarenas, Costa Rica. If focuses in the impact and tourism in peoples everyday life from on three- fold perspective: socio-economic, cultural and evironmental. Regarding the impact of tourism in the socioeconomic dimensión the study revels an important change in the labor market, which was traditionally related to farming and fishing, now oriented to the production of goods and services for tourists and other economic activities take place in medium and small scales and involve men and women, Young  and adults. They generate different social and interpersonal relations, which contribute to change comunal daily coexistence. In the cultural discussion tourism had changed daily like in these communities and patterns of social coexistence. Among the most significant changes are customs and holidays, clothing styles, the loss of traditional forms of communication, the beginning of different ways of dialoging and new relationships among neighbors, and even of the way people talk and how and whit they eat. In relation to the environment the new ways to relate to nature and of trying to manage and handle the natural resources the awareness and the new attitude in regard to the environmental situation, as well as the wormiest for conservation. For having clean and healthy surroundings, among others, had the collective levels. To summarize as a result of the effects of tourism an important transformation is talking place in the communities under study that coincides with the national and global context to a certain extent, but to also has its own particularities. In this sense, it is noticeable a re-definition of the individuality of each actor and social sector and in the totality of the communal identify as well. Eventhough that redefinition is the result of economic activities, of economic systems and new globalized developmental strategies, also effects in the social and cultural aspects and in the relation men-nature in a local level.