946 resultados para wave aberration


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Seafloor sediment mobilization on the inner Northwest Iberian continental shelf is caused largely by ocean surface waves. The temporal and spatial variability in the wave height, wave period, and wave direction has a profound effect on local sediment mobilization, leading to distinct sediment mobilization scenarios. Six grain-size specific sediment mobilization scenarios, representing seasonal average and storm conditions, were simulated with a physics-based numerical model. Model inputs included meteorological and oceanographic data in conjunction with seafloor grain-size and the shelf bathymetric data. The results show distinct seasonal variations, most importantly in wave height, leading to sediment mobilization, specifically on the inner shelf shallower than 30 m water depth where up to 49% of the shelf area is mobilized. Medium to severe storm events are modeled to mobilize up to 89% of the shelf area above 150 m water depth. The frequency of each of these seasonal and storm-related sediment mobilization scenarios is addressed using a decade of meteorological and oceanographic data. The temporal and spatial patterns of the modeled sediment mobilization scenarios are discussed in the context of existing geological and environmental processes and conditions to assist scientific, industrial and environmental efforts that are directly affected by sediment mobilization. Examples, where sediment mobilization plays a vital role, include seafloor nutrient advection, recurrent arrival of oil from oil-spill-laden seafloor sediment, and bottom trawling impacts.

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Prior to the Deep Sea Drilling Project the composition of the oceanic crust could only be inferred from seismic-refraction and gravity data and the recovery of a wide variety of dredged rocks. Through the success of the Deep Sea Drilling Project, it is now clear that the top of oceanic Layer 2 usually consists of basalt. Several laboratory studies (e.g., Fox et al., 1972; Christensen and Shaw, 1970; Hyndman and Drury, 1976) have demonstrated that the seismic velocities of oceanic basalt are similar to velocities reported from refraction studies of Layer 2 and that the variability in Layer 2 velocities has many causes, the most important being fracturing and sea-floor alteration produced by the interaction of basalt and sea water (Christensen and Salisbury, 1973). To date, most reported measurements of velocities in oceanic basalts are from samples obtained from the main ocean basins. With the exception of an earlier study of velocities and related elastic properties of a suite of rocks from DSDP Sites 292, 293, 294, and 296 located in the Philippine Sea (Christensen et al., 1975; Fountain et al., 1975), elastic properties have not been determined for oceanic rocks from marginal basins. In this chapter compressional- and shear-wave velocities and elastic constants are reported at elevated confining pressures for basalt and volcanic breccias from Holes 447A, 448, and 448A.