Noise robust voice activity detection using normal probability testing and time-domain histogram analysis

This paper presents a method of voice activity detection (VAD) suitable for high noise scenarios, based on the fusion of two complementary systems. The first system uses a proposed non-Gaussianity score (NGS) feature based on normal probability testing. The second system employs a histogram distance score (HDS) feature that detects changes in the signal through conducting a template-based similarity measure between adjacent frames. The decision outputs by the two systems are then merged using an open-by-reconstruction fusion stage. Accuracy of the proposed method was compared to several baseline VAD methods on a database created using real recordings of a variety of high-noise environments.

Rethinking global media : creative diversity and media dispersal

Communications media have been central to globalizing processes in modern societies. As technological forms, communication media have long extended the transmission of messages across space in ways that challenge the socio-cultural dimensions of the nation-state and national cultures, and the global communications infrastructure that has developed rapidly since the 1980s has further promoted global information flows and cross-border commercial activity. As institutional and organisational forms through which information and content is produced and distributed, media corporations have been at the forefront of international expansion of their market reach and the development of new sites of production and distribution, and media industries are highly dynamic on a global scale. Finally, as cultural forms, or providers of the informational and symbolic content that is received and used by consumers/audiences/users, global media constitute a core means through which people make sense of events in distant places, and the information and images that they carry are central to the existence of common systems of meaning and understanding across nations, regions and cultures.

Diversity management for innovation in social enterprises in the UK

This paper examines the linkages between diversity management (DM), innovation and high performance in social enterprises. These linkages are explicated beyond traditional framing of DM limited to workforce composition, to include discussions of innovation through networked diversity practices; reconciliation; and funding options. The paper draws upon a UK-based national survey and the case study data. Multiple data collection methods were used, including semi-structured interviews, questionnaires and workshops with participant observation. NVivo and SPSS software packages were utilized in order to analyse the qualitative and quantitative data, respectively. We used thematic coding and cropping techniques in analysing the case studies in the paper. A broad range of conflicting and supporting literature was enfolded into the conversations and discussion. The paper demonstrates that social enterprises exhibit unique characteristics in terms of size and location, as well as their double remit to add value both economically and socially. As a conclusion, we argue for social enterprises to consider options for DM in the interests of maximization of innovation and business performance. We contend that further research is needed to describe how social entrepreneurs draw upon their various ‘diversity resources’ in the process of innovation

Comparison between maximal lengthening and shortening contractions for biceps brachii muscle oxygenation and hemodynamics

Eccentric contractions (ECC) require lower systemic oxygen (O2) and induce greater symptoms of muscle damage than concentric contractions (CON); however, it is not known if local muscle oxygenation is lower in ECC than CON during and following exercise. This study compared between ECC and CON for changes in biceps brachii muscle oxygenation [tissue oxygenation index (TOI)] and hemodynamics [total hemoglobin volume (tHb) = oxygenated-Hb + deoxygenated-Hb], determined by near-infrared spectroscopy over 10 sets of 6 maximal contractions of the elbow flexors of 10 healthy subjects. This study also compared between ECC and CON for changes in TOI and tHb during a 10-s sustained and 30-repeated maximal isometric contraction (MVC) task measured immediately before and after and 1–3 days following exercise. The torque integral during ECC was greater (P < 0.05) than that during CON by ∼30%, and the decrease in TOI was smaller (P < 0.05) by ∼50% during ECC than CON. Increases in tHb during the relaxation phases were smaller (P < 0.05) by ∼100% for ECC than CON; however, the decreases in tHb during the contraction phases were not significantly different between sessions. These results suggest that ECC utilizes a lower muscle O2 relative to O2 supply compared with CON. Following exercise, greater (P < 0.05) decreases in MVC strength and increases in plasma creatine kinase activity and muscle soreness were evident 1–3 days after ECC than CON. Torque integral, TOI, and tHb during the sustained and repeated MVC tasks decreased (P < 0.01) only after ECC, suggesting that muscle O2 demand relative to O2 supply during the isometric tasks was decreased after ECC. This could mainly be due to a lower maximal muscle mass activated as a consequence of muscle damage; however, an increase in O2 supply due to microcirculation dysfunction and/or inflammatory vasodilatory responses after ECC is recognized.

HapMap tag-SNP analysis confirms a role for COMT in schizophrenia risk and reveals a novel association

Catechol-O-methyl transferase (COMT) encodes an enzyme involved in the metabolism of dopamine and maps to a commonly deleted region that increases schizophrenia risk. A non-synonymous polymorphism (rs4680) in COMT has been previously found to be associated with schizophrenia and results in altered activity levels of COMT. Using a haplotype block-based gene-tagging approach we conducted an association study of seven COMT single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) in 160 patients with a DSM-IV diagnosis of schizophrenia and 250 controls in an Australian population. Two polymorphisms including rs4680 and rs165774 were found to be significantly associated with schizophrenia. The rs4680 results in a Val/Met substitution but the strongest association was shown by the novel SNP, rs165774, which may still be functional even though it is located in intron five. Individuals with schizophrenia were more than twice as likely to carry the GG genotype compared to the AA genotype for both the rs165774 and rs4680 SNPs. This association was slightly improved when males were analysed separately possibly indicating a degree of sexual dimorphism. Our results confirm that COMT is a good candidate for schizophrenia risk, by replicating the association with rs4680 and identifying a novel SNP association.

Animateur : participatory studio-based learning in computer graphics animation

The impact of digital technology within the creative industries has brought with it a range of new opportunities for collaborative, cross-disciplinary and multi-disciplinary practice. Along with these opportunities has come the need to re-evaluate how we as educators approach teaching within this new digital culture. Within the field of animation, there has been a radical shift in the expectations of students, industry and educators as animation has become central to a range of new moving image practices. This paper interrogates the effectiveness of adopting a studio-based collaborative production project as a method for educating students within this new moving-image culture. The project was undertaken, as part of the Creative Industries Transitions to New Professional Environments program at Queensland University of Technology (QUT) in Brisbane Australia. A number of students studying across the Creative Industries Faculty and the Faculty of Science and Technology were invited to participate in the development of a 3D animated short film. The project offered students the opportunity to become actively involved in all stages of the creative process, allowing them to experience informal learning through collaborative professional practice. It is proposed that theoretical principles often associated with andragogy and constructivism can be used to design and deliver programs that address the emerging issues surrounding the teaching of this new moving image culture.

Recent advances in cancer therapy targeting proteins involved in DNA double-strand break repair

Damage to genetic material represents a persistent and ubiquitous threat to genomic stability. Once DNA damage is detected, a multifaceted signaling network is activated that halts the cell cycle, initiates repair, and in some instances induces apoptotic cell death. In this article, we will review DNA damage surveillance networks, which maintain the stability of our genome, and discuss the efforts underway to identify chemotherapeutic compounds targeting the core components of DNA double-strand breaks (DSB) response pathway. The majority of tumor cells have defects in maintaining genomic stability owing to the loss of an appropriate response to DNA damage. New anticancer agents are exploiting this vulnerability of cancer cells to enhance therapeutic indexes, with limited normal tissue toxicity. Recently inhibitors of the checkpoint kinases Chk1 and Chk2 have been shown to sensitize tumor cells to DNA damaging agents. In addition, the treatment of BRCA1- or BRCA2-deficient tumor cells with poly(ADP-ribose) polymerase (PARP) inhibitors also leads to specific tumor killing. Due to the numerous roles of p53 in genomic stability and its defects in many human cancers, therapeutic agents that restore p53 activity in tumors are the subject of multiple clinical trials. In this article we highlight the proteins mentioned above and catalog several additional players in the DNA damage response pathway, including ATM, DNA-PK, and the MRN complex, which might be amenable to pharmacological interventions and lead to new approaches to sensitize cancer cells to radio- and chemotherapy. The challenge is how to identify those patients most receptive to these treatments.

hSSB1 interacts directly with the MRN complex stimulating its recruitment to DNA double-strand breaks and its endo-nuclease activity

hSSB1 is a recently discovered single-stranded DNA binding protein that is essential for efficient repair of DNA double-strand breaks (DSBs) by the homologous recombination pathway. hSSB1 is required for the efficient recruitment of the MRN complex to sites of DSBs and for the efficient initiation of ATM dependent signalling. Here we explore the interplay between hSSB1 and MRN. We demonstrate that hSSB1 binds directly to NBS1, a component of the MRN complex, in a DNA damage independent manner. Consistent with the direct interaction, we observe that hSSB1 greatly stimulates the endo-nuclease activity of the MRN complex, a process that requires the C-terminal tail of hSSB1. Interestingly, analysis of two point mutations in NBS1, associated with Nijmegen breakage syndrome, revealed weaker binding to hSSB1, suggesting a possible disease mechanism.

Cultivating Innovation through Social Relationships: A Qualitative Study of Outstanding Australian Innovators in Science, Technology and the Creative Industries

In this chapter, we describe and explore social relationship patterns associated with outstanding innovation. In doing so, we draw upon the findings of 16 in-depth interviews with award-winning Australian innovators from science & technology and the creative industries. The interviews covered topics relating to various influences on individual innovation capacity and career development. We found that for all of the participants, innovation was a highly social process. Although each had been recognised individually for their innovative success, none worked in isolation. The ability to generate innovative outcomes was grounded in certain types of interaction and collaboration. We outline the distinctive features of the social relationships which seem to be important to innovation, and ask which ‘social network capabilities’ might underlie the ability to create an optimal pattern of interpersonal relationships. We discuss the implications of these findings for universities, which we argue play a key role in the development of nascent innovators.

Noise robust voice activity detection using features extracted from the time-domain autocorrelation function

This paper presents a method of voice activity detection (VAD) for high noise scenarios, using a noise robust voiced speech detection feature. The developed method is based on the fusion of two systems. The first system utilises the maximum peak of the normalised time-domain autocorrelation function (MaxPeak). The second zone system uses a novel combination of cross-correlation and zero-crossing rate of the normalised autocorrelation to approximate a measure of signal pitch and periodicity (CrossCorr) that is hypothesised to be noise robust. The score outputs by the two systems are then merged using weighted sum fusion to create the proposed autocorrelation zero-crossing rate (AZR) VAD. Accuracy of AZR was compared to state of the art and standardised VAD methods and was shown to outperform the best performing system with an average relative improvement of 24.8% in half-total error rate (HTER) on the QUT-NOISE-TIMIT database created using real recordings from high-noise environments.

Uncertainty and innovation in fashion design

Generally speaking, psychologists have suggested three traditional views of how people cope with uncertainty. They are the certainty maximiser, the intuitive statistician-economist and the knowledge seeker (Smithson, 2008). In times of uncertainty, such as the recent global financial crisis, these coping methods often result in innovation in industry. Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. An examination of the work of iconic fashion designers, through case study and situational analysis, reveals that coping with uncertainty manifests itself in ways that have resulted in innovations in design, marketing methods, production and consumption. In relation to contemporary fashion, where many garments look the same in style, colour, cut and fit (Finn, 2008), the concept of innovation is an important one. This paper explores the role of uncertainty as a driver of innovation in fashion design. A key aspect of seeking knowledge, as a mechanism to cope with this uncertainty, is a return to basics. This is a problem for contemporary fashion designers who are no longer necessarily makers and therefore do not engage with the basic materials and methods of garment construction. In many cases design in fashion has become digital, communicated to an unseen, unknown production team via scanned image and specification alone. The disconnection between the design and the making of garments, as a result of decades of off-shore manufacturing, has limited the opportunity for this return to basics. The authors argue that the role of the fashion designer has become about the final product and as a result there is a lack of innovation in the process of making: in the form, fit and function of fashion garments. They propose that ‘knowledge seeking’ as a result of uncertainty in the fashion industry, in particular through re-examination of the methods of making, could hold the key to a new era of innovation in fashion design.

The circadian response of intrinsically photosensitive retinal ganglion cells

Intrinsically photosensitive retinal ganglion cells (ipRGC) signal environmental light level to the central circadian clock and contribute to the pupil light reflex. It is unknown if ipRGC activity is subject to extrinsic (central) or intrinsic (retinal) network-mediated circadian modulation during light entrainment and phase shifting. Eleven younger persons (18–30 years) with no ophthalmological, medical or sleep disorders participated. The activity of the inner (ipRGC) and outer retina (cone photoreceptors) was assessed hourly using the pupil light reflex during a 24 h period of constant environmental illumination (10 lux). Exogenous circadian cues of activity, sleep, posture, caffeine, ambient temperature, caloric intake and ambient illumination were controlled. Dim-light melatonin onset (DLMO) was determined from salivary melatonin assay at hourly intervals, and participant melatonin onset values were set to 14 h to adjust clock time to circadian time. Here we demonstrate in humans that the ipRGC controlled post-illumination pupil response has a circadian rhythm independent of external light cues. This circadian variation precedes melatonin onset and the minimum ipRGC driven pupil response occurs post melatonin onset. Outer retinal photoreceptor contributions to the inner retinal ipRGC driven post-illumination pupil response also show circadian variation whereas direct outer retinal cone inputs to the pupil light reflex do not, indicating that intrinsically photosensitive (melanopsin) retinal ganglion cells mediate this circadian variation.

In vitro and in vivo examination of the cell surface glycoprotein CDCP1

A number of reports have demonstrated the importance of the CUB domaincontaining protein 1 (CDCP1) in facilitating cancer progression in animal models and the potential of this protein as a prognostic marker in several malignancies. CDCP1 facilitates metastasis formation in animal models by negatively regulating anoikis, a type of apoptosis triggered by the loss of attachment signalling from cell-cell contacts or cell-extra cellular matrix (ECM) contacts. Due to the important role CDCP1 plays in cancer progression in model systems, it is considered a potential drug target to prevent the metastatic spread of cancers. CDCP1 is a highly glycosylated 836 amino acid cell surface protein. It has structural features potentially facilitating protein-protein interactions including 14 N-glycosylation sites, three CUB-like domains, 20 cysteine residues likely to be involved in disulfide bond formation and five intracellular tyrosine residues. CDCP1 interacts with a variety of proteins including Src family kinases (SFKs) and protein kinase C ä (PKCä). Efforts to understand the mechanisms regulating these interactions have largely focussed on three CDCP1 tyrosine residues Y734, Y743 and Y762. CDCP1-Y734 is the site where SFKs phosphorylate and bind to CDCP1 and mediate subsequent phosphorylation of CDCP1-Y743 and -Y762 which leads to binding of PKCä at CDCP1-Y762. The resulting trimeric protein complex of SFK•CDCP1•PKCä has been proposed to mediate an anti-apoptotic cell phenotype in vitro, and to promote metastasis in vivo. The effect of mutation of the three tyrosines on interactions of CDCP1 with SFKs and PKCä and the consequences on cell phenotype in vitro and in vivo have not been examined. CDCP1 has a predicted molecular weight of ~90 kDa but is usually detected as a protein which migrates at ~135 kDa by Western blot analysis due to its high degree of glycosylation. A low molecular weight form of CDCP1 (LMWCDCP1) of ~70 kDa has been found in a variety of cancer cell lines. The mechanisms leading to the generation of LMW-CDCP1 in vivo are not well understood but an involvement of proteases in this process has been proposed. Serine proteases including plasmin and trypsin are able to proteolytically process CDCP1. In addition, the recombinant protease domain of the serine protease matriptase is also able to cleave the recombinant extracellular portion of CDCP1. Whether matriptase is able to proteolytically process CDCP1 on the cell surface has not been examined. Importantly, proteolytic processing of CDCP1 by trypsin leads to phosphorylation of its cell surface-retained portion which suggests that this event leads to initiation of an intracellular signalling cascade. This project aimed to further examine the biology of CDCP1 with a main of focus on exploring the roles played by CDCP1 tyrosine residues. To achieve this HeLa cells stably expressing CDCP1 or the CDCP1 tyrosine mutants Y734F, Y743F and Y762F were generated. These cell lines were used to examine: • The roles of the tyrosine residues Y734, Y743 and Y762 in mediating interactions of CDCP1 with binding proteins and to examine the effect of the stable expression on HeLa cell morphology. • The ability of the serine protease matriptase to proteolytically process cell surface CDCP1 and to examine the consequences of this event on HeLa cell phenotype and cell signalling in vitro. • The importance of these residues in processes associated with cancer progression in vitro including adhesion, proliferation and migration. • The role of these residues on metastatic phenotype in vivo and the ability of a function-blocking anti-CDCP1 antibody to inhibit metastasis in the chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) assay. Interestingly, biochemical experiments carried out in this study revealed that mutation of certain CDCP1 tyrosine residues impacts on interactions of this protein with binding proteins. For example, binding of SFKs as well as PKCä to CDCP1 was markedly decreased in HeLa-CDCP1-Y734F cells, and binding of PKCä was also reduced in HeLa-CDCP1-Y762F cells. In contrast, HeLa-CDCP1-Y743F cells did not display altered interactions with CDCP1 binding proteins. Importantly, observed differences in interactions of CDCP1 with binding partners impacted on basal phosphorylation of CDCP1. It was found that HeLa-CDCP1, HeLa-CDCP1-Y743F and -Y762F displayed strong basal levels of CDCP1 phosphorylation. In contrast, HeLa-CDCP1-Y734F cells did not display CDCP1 phosphorylation but exhibited constitutive phosphorylation of focal adhesion kinase (FAK) at tyrosine 861. Significantly, subsequent investigations to examine this observation suggested that CDCP1-Y734 and FAK-Y861 are competitive substrates for SFK-mediated phosphorylation. It appeared that SFK-mediated phosphorylation of CDCP1- Y734 and FAK-Y861 is an equilibrium which shifts depending on the level of CDCP1 expression in HeLa cells. This suggests that the level of CDCP1 expression may act as a regulatory mechanism allowing cells to switch from a FAK-Y861 mediated pathway to a CDCP1-Y734 mediated pathway. This is the first time that a link between SFKs, CDCP1 and FAK has been demonstrated. One of the most interesting observations from this work was that CDCP1 altered HeLa cell morphology causing an elongated and fibroblastic-like appearance. Importantly, this morphological change depended on CDCP1- Y734. In addition, it was observed that this change in cell morphology was accompanied by increased phosphorylation of SFK-Y416. This suggests that interactions of SFKs with CDCP1-Y734 increases SFK activity since SFKY416 is critical in regulating kinase activity of these proteins. The essential role of SFKs in mediating CDCP1-induced HeLa cell morphological changes was demonstrated using the SFK-selective inhibitor SU6656. This inhibitor caused reversion of HeLa-CDCP1 cell morphology to an epithelial appearance characteristic of HeLa-vector cells. Significantly, in vitro studies revealed that certain CDCP1-mediated cell phenotypes are mediated by cellular pathways dependent on CDCP1 tyrosine residues whereas others are independent of these sites. For example, CDCP1 expression caused a marked increase in HeLa cell motility that was independent of CDCP1 tyrosine residues. In contrast, CDCP1- induced decrease in HeLa cell proliferation was most prominent in HeLa- CDCP1-Y762F cells, potentially indicating a role for this site in regulating proliferation in HeLa cells. Another cellular event which was identified to require phosphorylation of a particular CDCP1 tyrosine residue is adhesion to fibronectin. It was observed that the CDCP1-mediated strong decrease in adhesion to fibronectin is mostly restored in HeLa-CDCP1-Y743F cells. This suggests a possible role for CDCP1-Y743 in causing a CDCP1-mediated decrease in adhesion. Data from in vivo experiments indicated that HeLa-CDCP1-Y734F cells are more metastic than HeLa-CDCP1 cells in vivo. This indicates that interaction of CDCP1 with SFKs and PKCä may not be required for CDCP1-mediated metastasis formation of HeLa cells in vivo. The metastatic phenotype of these cells may be caused by signalling involving FAK since HeLa-CDCP1- Y734F cells are the only CDCP1 expressing cells displaying constitutive phosphorylation of FAK-Y861. HeLa-CDCP1-Y762F cells displayed a very low metastatic ability which suggests that this CDCP1 tyrosine residue is important in mediating a pro-metastatic phenotype in HeLa cells. More detailed exploration of cellular events occurring downstream of CDCP1-Y734 and -Y762 may provide important insights into the mechanisms altering the metastatic ability of CDCP1 expressing HeLa cells. Complementing the in vivo studies, anti-CDCP1 antibodies were employed to assess whether these antibodies are able to inhibit metastasis of CDCP1 and CDCP1 tyrosine mutants expressing HeLa cells. It was found that HeLa- CDCP1-Y734F cells were the only cell line which was markedly reduced in the ability to metastasise. In contrast, the ability of HeLa-CDCP1, HeLa- CDCP1-Y743F and -Y762F cells to metastasise in vivo was not inhibited. These data suggest a possible role of interactions of CDCP1 with SFKs, occurring at CDCP1-Y734, in preventing an anti-metastatic effect of anti- CDCP1 antibodies in vivo. The proposal that SFKs may play a role in regulating anti-metastatic effects of anti-CDCP1 antibodies was supported by another experiment where differences between HeLa-CDCP1 cells and CDCP1 expressing HeLa cells (HeLa-CDCP1-S) from collaborators at the Scripps Research Institute were examined. It was found that HeLa-CDCP1-S cells express different SFKs than CDCP1 expressing HeLa cells generated for this study. This is important since HeLa-CDCP1-S cells can be inhibited in their metastatic ability using anti-CDCP1 antibodies in vivo. Importantly, these data suggest that further examinations of the roles of SFKs in facilitating anti-metastatic effects of anti-CDCP1 antibodies may give insights into how CDCP1 can be blocked to prevent metastasis in vivo. This project also explored the ability of the serine protease matriptase to proteolytically process cell surface localised CDCP1 because it is unknown whether matriptase can cleave cell surface CDCP1 as it has been reported for other proteases such as trypsin and plasmin. Furthermore, the consequences of matriptase-mediated proteolysis on cell phenotype in vitro and cell signalling were examined since recent reports suggested that proteolysis of CDCP1 leads to its phosphorylation and may initiate cell signalling and consequently alter cell phenotype. It was found that matriptase is able to proteolytically process cell surface CDCP1 at low nanomolar concentrations which suggests that cleavage of CDCP1 by matriptase may facilitate the generation of LWM-CDCP1 in vivo. To examine whether matriptase-mediated proteolysis induced cell signalling anti-phospho Erk 1/2 Western blot analysis was performed as this pathway has previously been examined to study signalling in response to proteolytic processing of cell surface proteins. It was found that matriptase-mediated proteolysis in CDCP1 expressing HeLa cells initiated intracellular signalling via Erk 1/2. Interestingly, this increase in phosphorylation of Erk 1/2 was also observed in HeLa-vector cells. This suggested that initiation of cell signalling via Erk 1/2 phosphorylation as a result of matriptase-mediated proteolysis occurs by pathways independent of CDCP1. Subsequent investigations measuring the flux of free calcium ions and by using a protease-activated receptor 2 (PAR2) agonist peptide confirmed this hypothesis. These data suggested that matriptase-mediated proteolysis results in cell signalling via a pathway induced by the activation of PAR2 rather than by CDCP1. This indicates that induction of cell signalling in HeLa cells as a consequence of matriptase-mediated proteolysis occurs via signalling pathways which do not involve phosphorylation of Erk 1/2. Consequently, it appears that future attempts should focus on the examination of cellular pathways other than Erk 1/2 to elucidate cell signalling initiated by matriptase-mediated proteolytic processing of CDCP1. The data presented in this thesis has explored in vitro and in vivo aspects of the biology of CDCP1. The observations summarised above will permit the design of future studies to more precisely determine the role of CDCP1 and its binding partners in processes relevant to cancer progression. This may contribute to further defining CDCP1 as a target for cancer treatment.

Reinforced hydrogels for silicone copolymer delivery for scar remediation

Hypertrophic scars are formed by collagen overproduction in wounded areas and often occur in victims of severe burns. There are several methods for hypertrophic scar remediation and silicone gel therapy is one of the more successful methods. Research by others has shown that the activity of these gels may be due to migration of amphiphilic silicone oligomers from the gel and into the dermis, down-regulating production of collagen by fibroblasts. Normal silicone oil (PDMS) does not produce the same effect on fibroblasts. The main purpose of this project is the introduction of a particular amphiphilic silicone rake copolymer into an appropriate network which can absorb and release the silicone copolymer on the scarred area. Hydrogels are polymeric crosslinked networks which can swell in water or a drug solution, and gradually release the drug when applied to the skin. The application of gel enhances the effectiveness of the therapy, reduces the period of treatment and can be comfortable for patients to use. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) based networks have been applied in this research, because the amphiphilic silicone rake copolymer to be used as a therapy has polyethylene oxide (PEO) as a side chain. These PEO side chains have very similar chemical structure to a PEG gel chain so enhancing both the compatibility and the diffusion of the amphiphilic silicone rake copolymer into and out of the gel. Synthesis of PEG-based networks has been performed by two methods: in situ silsesquioxane formation as crosslink with a sol-gel reaction under different conditions and UV curing. PEG networks have low mechanical properties which is a fundamental limitation of the polymer backbone. For mechanical properties enhancement, composite networks were synthesized using nano-silica with different surface modification. The chemical structure of in situ silsesquioxane in the dry network has been examined by Solid State NMR, Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and swelling measurements in water. Mechanical properties of dry networks were tested by Dynamic Mechanical Thermal Analysis (DMTA) to determine modulus and interfacial interaction between silica and the network. In this way a family of self-reinforced networks has been produced that have been shown to absorb and deliver the active amphiphilic silicone- PEO rake copolymer.

Luxury fashion: The role of innovation as a key contributing factor in the development of luxury fashion goods and sustainable fashion design

Luxury is a quality that is difficult to define as the historical concept of luxury appears to be both dynamic and culturally specific. The everyday definition explains a ‘luxury’ in relation to a necessity: a luxury (product or service) is defined as something that consumers want rather than need. However, the growth of global markets has seen a boom in what are now referred to as ‘luxury brands’. This branding of products as luxury has resulted in a change in the way consumers understand luxury goods and services. In their attempts to characterize a luxury brand, Fionda & Moore in their article “The anatomy of a Luxury Brand” summarize a range of critical conditions that are in addition to product branding “... including product and design attributes of quality, craftsmanship and innovative, creative and unique products” (Fionda & Moore, 2009). For the purposes of discussing fashion design however, quality and craftsmanship are inseparable while creativity and innovation exist under different conditions. The terms ‘creative’ and ‘innovative’ are often used inter-changeably and are connected with most descriptions of the design process, defining ‘design’ and ‘fashion’ in many cases. Christian Marxt and Fredrik Hacklin identify this condition in their paper “Design, product development, innovation: all the same in the end?”(Marxt & Hacklin, 2005) and suggest that design communities should be aware that the distinction between these terms, whilst once quite definitive, is becoming narrow to a point where they will mean the same thing. In relation to theory building in the discipline this could pose significant problems. Brett Richards (2003) identifies innovation as different from creativity in that innovation aims to transform and implement rather than simply explore and invent. Considering this distinction, in particular relation to luxury branding, may affect the way in which design can contribute to a change in the way luxury fashion goods might be perceived in a polarised fashion market, namely suggesting that ‘luxury’ is what consumers need rather than the ‘pile it high, sell it cheap’ fashion that the current market dynamic would indicate they want. This paper attempts to explore the role of innovation as a key contributing factor in luxury concepts, in particular the relationship between innovation and creativity, the conditions which enable innovation, the role of craftsmanship in innovation and design innovation in relation to luxury fashion products. An argument is presented that technological innovation can be demonstrated as a common factor in the development of luxury fashion product and that the connection between designer and maker will play an important role in the development of luxury fashion goods for a sustainable fashion industry.