Joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied. (C) 2003 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

On the nonlinear integral transform of an ocean wave spectrum into an along-track interferometric synthetic aperture radar image spectrum

We present a new nonlinear integral transform relating the ocean wave spectrum to the along-track interferometric synthetic aperture radar (AT-INSAR) image spectrum. The AT-INSAR, which is a synthetic aperture radar (SAR) employing two antennas displaced along the platform's flight direction, is considered to be a better instrument for imaging ocean waves than the SAR. This is because the AT-INSAR yields the phase spectrum and not only the amplitude spectrum as with the conventional SAR. While the SAR and AT-INSAR amplitude spectra depend strongly on the modulation of the normalized radar cross section (NRCS) by the long ocean waves, which is poorly known, the phase spectrum depends only weakly on this modulation. By measuring the phase difference between the signals received by both antennas, AT-INSAR measures the radial component of the orbital velocity associated with the ocean waves, which is related to the ocean wave height field by a well-known transfer function. The nonlinear integral transform derived in this paper differs from the one previously derived by Bao et al. [1999] by an additional term containing the derivative of the radial component of the orbital velocity associated with the long ocean waves. By carrying out numerical simulations, we show that, in general, this additional term cannot be neglected. Furthermore, we present two new quasi-linear approximations to the nonlinear integral transform relating the ocean wave spectrum to the AT-INSAR phase spectrum.

Effect of Stokes drift on upper ocean mixing

Stokes drift is the main source of vertical vorticity in the ocean mixed layer. In the ways of Coriolis - Stokes forcing and Langmuir circulations, Stokes drift can substantially affect the whole mixed layer. A modified Mellor-Yamada 2.5 level turbulence closure model is used to parameterize its effect on upper ocean mixing conventionally. Results show that comparing surface heating with wave breaking, Stokes drift plays the most important role in the entire ocean mixed layer, especially in the subsurface layer. As expected, Stokes drift elevates both the dissipation rate and the turbulence energy in the upper ocean mixing. Also, influence of the surface heating, wave breaking and wind speed on Stokes drift is investigated respectively. Research shows that it is significant and important to assessing the Stokes drift into ocean mixed layer studying. The laboratory observations are supporting numerical experiments quantitatively.

Application of effective medium approximation theory to ocean remote sensing under wave breaking

Based on the effective medium approximation theory of composites, the empirical model proposed by Pandey and Kakar is remedied to investigate the microwave emissivity of sea surface under wave breaking driven by strong wind. In the improved model, the effects of seawater bubbles, droplets and difference in temperature of air and sea interface (DTAS) on the emissivity of sea surface covered by whitecaps are discussed. The model results indicate that the effective emissivity of sea surface increases with DTAS increasing, and the impacts of bubble structures and thickness of whitecaps layer on the emissivity are included in the model by introducing the effective dielectric constant of whitecaps layer. Moreover, a good agreement is obtained by comparing the model results with the Rose's experimental data.

IMPACTS OF THE TROPICAL PACIFIC COUPLED PROCESS ON THE INTERANNUAL VARIABILITY IN THE INDIAN OCEAN

The basic features of climatology and interannual variations of tropical Pacific and Indian Oceans were analyzed using a coupled general circulation model (CGCM), which was constituted with an intermediate 2.5-layer ocean model and atmosphere model ECHAM4. The CGCM well captures the spatial and temporal structure of the Pacific El Nino-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and the variability features in the tropical Indian Ocean. The influence of Pacific air-sea coupled process on the Indian Ocean variability was investigated carefully by conducting numerical experiments. Results show that the occurrence frequency of positive/negative Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) event will decrease/increase with the presence/absence of the coupled process in the Pacific Ocean. Further analysis demonstrated that the air-sea coupled process in the Pacific Ocean affects the IOD variability mainly by influencing the zonal gradient of thermocline via modulating the background sea surface wind.

Remote sensing of ocean waves by polarimetric SAR

A new method to measure ocean wave slope spectra using fully polarimetric synthetic aperture radar (POLSAR) data was developed without the need for a complex hydrodynamic modulation transform function. There is no explicit use of a hydrodynamic modulation transfer function. This function is not clearly known and is based on hydrodynamic assumptions. The method is different from those developed by Schuler and colleagues or Pottier but complements their methods. The results estimated from NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL) Airborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (AIRSAR) C-band polarimetric SAR data show that the ocean wavelength, wave direction, and significant wave height are in agreement with buoy measurements. The proposed method can be employed by future satellite missions such as RADARSAT-2.

Measurements of ocean wave and current field using dual polarized X-band radar

A new ocean wave and sea surface current monitoring system with horizontally-(HH) and vertically-(VV) polarized X-band radar was developed. Two experiments into the use of the radar system were carried out at two sites, respectively, for calibration process in Zhangzi Island of the Yellow Sea, and for validation in the Yellow Sea and South China Sea. Ocean wave parameters and sea surface current velocities were retrieved from the dual polarized radar image sequences based on an inverse method. The results obtained from dual-polarized radar data sets acquired in Zhangzi Island are compared with those from an ocean directional buoy. The results show that ocean wave parameters and sea surface current velocities retrieved from radar image sets are in a good agreement with those observed by the buoy. In particular, it has been found that the vertically-polarized radar is better than the horizontally-polarized radar in retrieving ocean wave parameters, especially in detecting the significant wave height below 1.0 m.

Dynamics of the cold-water event off the southeast coast of the United States in the summer of 2003

The cold-water event along the southeast coast of the United States in the summer of 2003 is studied using satellite data combined with in situ observations. The analysis suggests that the cooling is produced by wind-driven coastal upwelling, which breaks the thermocline barrier in the summer of 2003. The strong and persistent southwesterly winds in the summer of 2003 play an important role of lifting the bottom isotherms up to the surface and away from the coast, generating persistent surface cooling in July-August 2003. Once the thermocline barrier is broken, the stratification in the nearshore region is weakened substantially, allowing further coastal cooling of large magnitudes by episodic southerly wind bursts or passage of coastally trapped waves at periods of a few days. These short-period winds or waves would otherwise have no effects on the surface temperature because of the strong thermocline barrier in summer if not for the low-frequency cooling produced by the persistent southwesterly winds.

A new empirical model for retrieving sea surface salinity in L band

Sea surface salinity is a key physical parameter in ocean science. It is important in the ocean remote sensing to retrieve sea surface salinity by the microwave probe technology. Based on the in situ measurement data and remote sensing data of the Yellow Sea, we have built a new empirical model in this paper, which can be used to retrieve sea surface salinity of the Yellow Sea by means of the brightness temperature of the sea water at L-band. In this model, the influence of the roughness of the sea surface is considered, and the retrieved result is in good agreement with the in situ measurement data, where the mean absolute error of the retrieved sea surface salinity is about 0.288 psu. This result shows that our model has greater retrieval precision compared with similar models.

Mixed-layer water oscillations in tropical Pacific for ENSO cycle

The main modes of interannal variabilities of thermocline and sea surface wind stress in the tropical Pacific and their interactions are investigated, which show the following results. (1) The thermocline anomalies in the tropical Pacific have a zonal dipole pattern with 160 W as its axis and a meridional seesaw pattern with 6-8 degrees N as its transverse axis. The meridional oscillation has a phase lag of about 90 to the zonal oscillation, both oscillations get together to form the El Nino/La Nina cycle, which behaves as a mixed layer water oscillates anticlockwise within the tropical Pacific basin between equator and 12 degrees N. (2) There are two main patterns of wind stress anomalies in the tropical Pacific, of which the first component caused by trade wind anomaly is characterized by the zonal wind stress anomalies and its corresponding divergences field in the equatorial Pacific, and the abnormal cross- equatorial flow wind stress and its corresponding divergence field, which has a sign opposite to that of the equatorial region, in the off-equator of the tropical North Pacific, and the second component represents the wind stress anomalies and corresponding divergences caused by the ITCZ anomaly. (3) The trade winds anomaly plays a decisive role in the strength and phase transition of the ENSO cycle, which results in the sea level tilting, provides an initial potential energy to the mixed layer water oscillation, and causes the opposite thermocline displacement between the west side and east side of the equator and also between the equator and 12 degrees N of the North Pacific basin, therefore determines the amplitude and route for ENSO cycle. The ITCZ anomaly has some effects on the phase transition. (4) The thermal anomaly of the tropical western Pacific causes the wind stress anomaly and extends eastward along the equator accompanied with the mixed layer water oscillation in the equatorial Pacific, which causes the trade winds anomaly and produces the anomalous wind stress and the corresponding divergence in favor to conduce the oscillation, which in turn intensifies the oscillation. The coupled system of ocean-atmosphere interactions and the inertia gravity of the mixed layer water oscillation provide together a phase-switching mechanism and interannual memory for the ENSO cycle. In conclusion, the ENSO cycle essentially is an inertial oscillation of the mixed layer water induced by both the trade winds anomaly and the coupled ocean-atmosphere interaction in the tropical Pacific basin between the equator and 12 degrees N. When the force produced by the coupled ocean-atmosphere interaction is larger than or equal to the resistance caused by the mixed layer water oscillation, the oscillation will be stronger or maintain as it is, while when the force is less than the resistance, the oscillation will be weaker, even break.

Seasonal changes in the distribution of dissolved organic nitrogen in coastal and open-ocean waters in the North East Pacific: sources and sinks

The distribution of dissolved organic nitrogen (DON) and nitrate were determined seasonally (winter, spring and summer) during three years along line P, i.e. an E-W transect from the coast of British Columbia, Canada, to Station P (50degreesN, 145degreesW) in the subarctic North East Pacific Ocean. In conjunction, DON measurements were made in the Straits of Juan de Fuca and Georgia within an estuarine system connected to the NE Pacific Ocean. The distribution of DON at the surface showed higher values of 4-17 muM in the Straits relative to values of 4-10 muM encountered along line P, respectively. Along line P, the concentration of DON showed an inshore-offshore gradient at the surface with higher values near the coast. The equation for the conservation of DON showed that horizontal transport of DON (inshore-offshore) was much larger than vertical physical mixing. Horizontal advection of DON-rich waters from the coastal estuarine system to the NE Pacific Ocean was likely the cause of the inshore-offshore gradient in the concentration of DON. Although the concentration of DON was very variable in space and time, it increased from winter to summer, with an average build up of 4.3 muM in the Straits and 0.7 muM in the NE subarctic Pacific. This implied seasonal DON sources of 0.3 mmol N m(-2) d(-1) at Station P and 1.5 mmol N m(-2) d(-1) in the Straits, respectively. These seasonal DON accumulation rates corresponded to about 15-20% of the seasonal nitrate uptake and suggested that there was a small seasonal build up of labile DON at the surface. However, the long residence times of 180-1560 d indicated that the most of the DON pool in surface waters was refractory in two very different productivity regimes of the NE Pacific. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

INVESTIGATION OF OCEAN ACOUSTICS USING AUTONOMOUS INSTRUMENTATION TO QUANTIFY THE WATER-SEDIMENT BOUNDARY PROPERTIES

Sound propagation in shallow water is characterized by interaction with the oceans surface, volume, and bottom. In many coastal margin regions, including the Eastern U.S. continental shelf and the coastal seas of China, the bottom is composed of a depositional sandy-silty top layer. Previous measurements of narrow and broadband sound transmission at frequencies from 100 Hz to 1 kHz in these regions are consistent with waveguide calculations based on depth and frequency dependent sound speed, attenuation and density profiles. Theoretical predictions for the frequency dependence of attenuation vary from quadratic for the porous media model of M.A. Biot to linear for various competing models. Results from experiments performed under known conditions with sandy bottoms, however, have agreed with attenuation proportional to f1.84, which is slightly less than the theoretical value of f2 [Zhou and Zhang, J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 117, 2494]. This dissertation presents a reexamination of the fundamental considerations in the Biot derivation and leads to a simplification of the theory that can be coupled with site-specific, depth dependent attenuation and sound speed profiles to explain the observed frequency dependence. Long-range sound transmission measurements in a known waveguide can be used to estimate the site-specific sediment attenuation properties, but the costs and time associated with such at-sea experiments using traditional measurement techniques can be prohibitive. Here a new measurement tool consisting of an autonomous underwater vehicle and a small, low noise, towed hydrophone array was developed and used to obtain accurate long-range sound transmission measurements efficiently and cost effectively. To demonstrate this capability and to determine the modal and intrinsic attenuation characteristics, experiments were conducted in a carefully surveyed area in Nantucket Sound. A best-fit comparison between measured results and calculated results, while varying attenuation parameters, revealed the estimated power law exponent to be 1.87 between 220.5 and 1228 Hz. These results demonstrate the utility of this new cost effective and accurate measurement system. The sound transmission results, when compared with calculations based on the modified Biot theory, are shown to explain the observed frequency dependence.

Heat balances and thermally driven lagoon-ocean exchangeson a tropical coral reef system (Moorea, French Polynesia)

© 2015. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.The role of surface and advective heat fluxes on buoyancy-driven circulation was examined within a tropical coral reef system. Measurements of local meteorological conditions as well as water temperature and velocity were made at six lagoon locations for 2 months during the austral summer. We found that temperature rather than salinity dominated buoyancy in this system. The data were used to calculate diurnally phase-averaged thermal balances. A one-dimensional momentum balance developed for a portion of the lagoon indicates that the diurnal heating pattern and consistent spatial gradients in surface heat fluxes create a baroclinic pressure gradient that is dynamically important in driving the observed circulation. The baroclinic and barotropic pressure gradients make up 90% of the momentum budget in part of the system; thus, when the baroclinic pressure gradient decreases 20% during the day due to changes in temperature gradient, this substantially changes the circulation, with different flow patterns occurring during night and day. Thermal balances computed across the entire lagoon show that the spatial heating patterns and resulting buoyancy-driven circulation are important in maintaining a persistent advective export of heat from the lagoon and for enhancing ocean-lagoon exchange.

Variations of chlorophyll-a in the northeastern Indian Ocean after the 2004 South Asian tsunami

Analysis of satellite remote sensing data has revealed changes in distribution of chlorophyll-a (Chl-a) and sea surface temperature (SST) in the Indian Ocean during the South Asian tsunami in December 2004. Chl-a data derived from Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) and Sea-viewing Wide Field-ofview Sensor (SeaWiFS) images were examined for the period from 1998 to 2005. Around the epicentre of the Sumatra earthquake, the Chl-a concentrationwas found to increase prior to the main event on 26 December 2004 and then decrease during the tsunami event, while a high SST (~30-31°C) was observed in and around the epicentral region. Chl-a concentrations in the coastal waters of the Southeast Asian countries were remarkably low during and after the tsunami. Similar but relatively small variations inChl-a and SST were observed during the second earthquake on 28 March 2005. Analysis of Chl-a, SST, wind and upwelling water has provided information for understanding the changes in Chl-a concentration during the tsunami. A very large offshore phytoplankton bloom (~300 km2) appeared to the southeast of Sri Lanka about 3 weeks after the tsunami; this might have been caused by a tropical storm that could be responsible for the enhancement of nutrients. © 2009 Taylor & Francis.