Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

Introduction - research ethics : women, sex, and gender in biomedical research

The ethical governance of biomedical research is an area of intense international debate. Scholars argue about who should regulate and how, the appropriate role for ethics committees, what kind of research should be included, and who should be involved in monitoring compliance. A particular aspect of these debates concerns the inclusion of women as research participants and the efforts to ensure that researchers consistently investigate questions of sex and gender in health research. There is increasing evidence of the role of sex in the manifestation and course of some illnesses and their treatment. Moreover, evidence suggests that gendered expectations also affect health outcomes. This special issue investigates how researchers are addressing these issues and debates the appropriate roles of policy makers, ethicists, and lawyers in ensuring that sex and gender differences are taken into account in the development, conduct, and reporting of health research.

Review : "Genetic Privacy: A challenge to Medico-Legal Norms" by Laurie, G

The discovery by Watson and Crick of the structure of DNA is one of the great scientific discoveries. In the period since that discovery new areas of genetic research have opened up which hold out the hope of developing treatments or cures for many illnesses and diseases. Yet with these discoveries have also come an array of ethical and legal dilemmas about the use of genetic information and concerns about the potential for those with genetic diseases or conditions to be stigmatised and discriminated against. The discussion about the developments in genetic science has become increasingly, a debate about the use of genetic information within our society. Graeme Laurie’s book, Genetic Privacy: A Challenge to Medico-Legal Norms, guides the reader through the complexities of these debates by considering what we mean by privacy and asking whether our existing concepts are adequate to meet the challenges posed by the new genetics.

Geographic co-distribution of influenza virus subtypes H7N9 and H5N1 in humans, China

Human infection with a novel low pathogenicity influenza A(H7N9) virus in eastern China has recently raised global public health concerns (1). The geographic sources of infection have yet to be fully clarified, and confirmed human cases from 1 province have not been linked to those from other provinces. While some studies have identified epidemiologic characteristics of subtype H7N9 cases and clinical differences between these cases and cases of highly pathogenic influenza A(H5N1), another avian influenza affecting parts of China (2–4), the spatial epidemiology of human infection with influenza subtypes H7N9 and H5N1 in China has yet to be elucidated. To test the hypothesis of co-distribution of high-risk clusters of both types of infection, we used all available data on human cases in mainland China and investigated the geospatial epidemiologic features...

Smart resource control in distribution network to improve the integration level of PV

This project was an innovative approach in developing smart coordination of available energy resources to improve the integration level of PV in distribution network. Voltage and loading issues are considered as the main concerns for future electricity grid which need to be avoided using such resources. A distributed control structure was proposed for the resources in distribution network to avoid noted power quality issues.

Predicting positive and negative impacts of cancer among long-term endometrial cancer survivors

OBJECTIVE Although the survival outcomes among women diagnosed with endometrial cancer are very favorable, little is known about the long-term impact of their cancer experience. This study identifies the extent of positive and negative impacts of cancer and factors associated with this, amongst long-term survivors of endometrial cancer. METHODS Australian women diagnosed with endometrial cancer (N=632) were sent questionnaires at the time of diagnosis and 3-5 years later. Hierarchical multiple regression models were used to examine whether a range of variables at diagnosis/treatment predicted subsequent scores on the Impact of Cancer Scale, which examines positive (e.g. health awareness) and negative (e.g. appearance concerns) impacts amongst cancer survivors. RESULTS Overall, women had a higher mean score for the positive than negative impact scales (M=3.5 versus M=2.5, respectively). An intermediate grade of endometrial cancer, a prior diagnosis of cancer and lower levels of education were significant, but weak, predictors of higher scores on the positive impact scale. Higher scores on the negative impact scale were predicted by a higher grade of cancer, poor physical and mental health, a younger age, being single or having lower levels of education. CONCLUSIONS The study demonstrates that factors that predict positive impact in cancer survivors differ to those that predict negative impact, suggesting that interventions to optimize cancer survivors' quality of life will need to be multi-dimensional, and this supports the need for tailored intervention.

Validity and reliability of the 3-day physical activity recall in Singaporean adolescents

Childhood obesity and physical inactivity are major health concerns for the Singaporean government (Ministry of Health, Singapore [MOH], 2001). Data from the 1998 Singaporean National Health Survey indicate that 10.8–14.7% of Singaporean children ages 6–16 years are either overweight or obese (MOH, 2001). Although true population estimates of youth physical activity are not available, descriptive epidemiological studies conducted in the 1990s suggest that a large percentage of school-aged children in Singapore fail to meet established guidelines for participation in physical activity...

Coal seam gas water : potential hazards and exposure pathways in Queensland

The extraction of coal seam gas (CSG) produces large volumes of potentially contaminated water. It has raised concerns about the environmental health impacts of the co-produced CSG water. In this paper, we review CSG water contaminants and their potential health effects in the context of exposure pathways in Queensland’s CSG basins. The hazardous substances associated with CSG water in Queensland include fluoride, boron, lead and benzene. The exposure pathways for CSG water are: (1) water used for municipal purposes, (2) recreational water activities in rivers, (3) occupational exposures, (4) water extracted from contaminated aquifers, and; (5) indirect exposure through the food chain. We recommend mapping of exposure pathways into communities in CSG regions to determine the potentially exposed populations in Queensland. Future efforts to monitor chemicals of concern and consolidate them into a central database will build the necessary capability to undertake a much needed environmental health impact assessment.

Encouragement of physical activity for weight loss may lead to negative psychological outcomes among girls

PURPOSE To examine correlates and consequences of parents' encouragement of girls' physical activity (PA) for weight loss (ENCLOSS). METHODS Data were collected for 181 girls, mothers and fathers when girls were 9, 11, and 13 years old. Mothers and fathers completed a self-report questionnaire of ENCLOSS (e.g., “I have talked to my daughter about how to exercise to lose weight”). Correlates of ENCLOSS that were assessed include girls' Body Mass Index (BMI) z-score and parents' modeling of and logistic support for PA. Dependent variables assessed at age 13 include girls' self-reported and objectively-measured PA, enjoyment of physical activity, and weight concerns. Associations between ENCLOSS, girls' BMI, and parent's support for PA were assessed using spearman rank correlations. To examine links between ENCLOSS and the outcome variables, scores for ENCLOSS were divided into tertiles at each age. Three groups were created including girls who were in the highest tertile at each age (high ENCLOSS), girls who were in the lowest tertile at each age (low ENCLOSS), and girls who varied in their tertile ranking (mid ENCLOSS). Group differences in the outcome variables were assessed using regression analysis (referent group: low ENCLOSS), controlling for girls' BMI and the outcome variable at age 9. RESULTS Girls' with higher BMI had mothers and fathers who reported higher ENCLOSS (r = .61-. 69, p<. 0001). Parents'reports of ENCLOSS were not associated with modeling of or logistic support for PA. Girls in the high ENCLOSS group reported significantly lower enjoyment of PA and higher weight concerns at age 13, independent of covariates. No differences in PA were noted. CONCLUSION Parents who encourage their daughters to be active for weight loss do not model PA or facilitate girls' PA. Persistent encouragement of PA for weight loss may lead to low enjoyment of PA and higher weight concerns among adolescent girls.

An analysis of dispute review boards and settlement mediation as used in the Australian construction industry

If there is a silver lining to the adversarial, dispute-prone nature of the building and construction industry, it can be found in the concomitant rise of innovative dispute resolution mechanisms. Time, cost and relationship concerns have meant that the formal adversarial system holds little appeal for disputing parties. As these alternative forms of dispute avoidance/resolution have matured in Australia over the last 20 years, attention has turned to the key characteristics of each process and their suitability to the building and construction industry. This article considers the role of dispute review boards (DRBs) and mediation as two alternative methods for avoiding/resolving disputes in the construction industry. Criteria are established for evaluating the efficacy of these procedures and their sensitivity to the needs of construction industry disputants. The ultimate conclusion reached is that DRBs represent a powerful, yet underutilised dispute resolution tool in Australia, and possess many industry-specific advantages that more traditional forms of alternative dispute resolution (particularly mediation) do not provide.

A framework for identifying associations in digital evidence using metadata

Digital forensics concerns the analysis of electronic artifacts to reconstruct events such as cyber crimes. This research produced a framework to support forensic analyses by identifying associations in digital evidence using metadata. It showed that metadata based associations can help uncover the inherent relationships between heterogeneous digital artifacts thereby aiding reconstruction of past events by identifying artifact dependencies and time sequencing. It also showed that metadata association based analysis is amenable to automation by virtue of the ubiquitous nature of metadata across forensic disk images, files, system and application logs and network packet captures. The results prove that metadata based associations can be used to extract meaningful relationships between digital artifacts, thus potentially benefiting real-life forensics investigations.

Embedded creatives in the Australian manufacturing industry

According to 2011 Australian Census figures, embedded creative employees (creative employees not working in the core Creative Industries) make up 2 per cent (or a total of 17 635) of manufacturing industry employees. The average for all industries is 1.6 per cent. In the 2011–2012 financial year the manufacturing industry formed 7.3 per cent of Australia’s gross domestic product (GDP), contributing approximately AU$106.5 billion to the economy (Department of Industry, Innovation, Science, Research and Tertiary Education 2013). Manufacturing is central to innovation, accounting for over one-quarter of all business expenditure in R&D in 2010–2011, representing around AU$4.8 billion invested in R&D (ibid.). Facing challenges such as sustainability concerns, ever-increasing offshore production and the global financial crisis, the Australian manufacturing industry needs to remain relevant and competitive to succeed. Innovation is one way to do this. Given the contribution of the manufacturing industry to the Australian economy, and the above-average portion of embedded creatives in manufacturing, it is important to consider what exactly embedded creatives add to the industry. This chapter, inspired by the Getting Creative in Healthcare report (Pagan, Higgs and Cunningham 2008), examines the contribution of embedded creatives to innovation in the manufacturing industry via case studies and supplemental data.

eHealth-as-a-Service (eHaaS) : towards universal stakeholder engagement

With the introduction of the Personally Controlled Health Record (PCEHR), the Australian public is being asked to accept greater responsibility for their healthcare by taking an active role in the management of personal health information. Although well designed, constructed and intentioned, policy and privacy concerns have resulted in an eHealth model that may impact future health sharing requirements. Hence, as a case study for a consumer eHealth initative in the Australian context, eHealth-as-a-Service (eHaaS) serves as a disruptive step in in the aggregation and transformation of health information for use as real-world knowledge. The strategic value of extending the community Health Record Bank (HRB) model lies in the ability to automatically draw on a multitude of relevant data repositories and sources to create a single source of the truth and to engage market forces to create financial sustainability. The opportunity to transform the beleaguered Australian PCEHR into a realisable and sustainable technology consumption model for patient safety is explored. Moreover, the current clerical focus of healthcare practitioners acting in the role of de facto record keepers is renegotiated to establish a shared knowledge creation landscape of action for safer patient interventions. To achieve this potential however requires a platform that will facilitate efficient and trusted unification of all health information available in real-time across the continuum of care. eHaaS provides a sustainable environment and encouragement to realise this potential.

Catchment-specific element signatures in estuarine crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) from the Alligator Rivers Region, northern Australia

The concentrations of Na, K, Ca, Mg, Ba, Sr, Fe, Al, Mn, Zn, Pb, Cu, Ni, Cr, Co, Se, U and Ti were determined in the osteoderms and/or flesh of estuarine crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) captured in three adjacent catchments within the Alligator Rivers Region (ARR) of northern Australia. Results from multivariate analysis of variance showed that when all metals were considered simultaneously, catchment effects were significant (P≤0.05). Despite considerable within-catchment variability, linear discriminant analysis (LDA) showed that differences in elemental signatures in the osteoderms and/or flesh of C. porosus amongst the catchments were sufficient to classify individuals accurately to their catchment of occurrence. Using cross-validation, the accuracy of classifying a crocodile to its catchment of occurrence was 76% for osteoderms and 60% for flesh. These data suggest that osteoderms provide better predictive accuracy than flesh for discriminating crocodiles amongst catchments. There was no advantage in combining the osteoderm and flesh results to increase the accuracy of classification (i.e. 67%). Based on the discriminant function coefficients for the osteoderm data, Ca, Co, Mg and U were the most important elements for discriminating amongst the three catchments. For flesh data, Ca, K, Mg, Na, Ni and Pb were the most important metals for discriminating amongst the catchments. Reasons for differences in the elemental signatures of crocodiles between catchments are generally not interpretable, due to limited data on surface water and sediment chemistry of the catchments or chemical composition of dietary items of C. porosus. From a wildlife management perspective, the provenance or source catchment(s) of 'problem' crocodiles captured at settlements or recreational areas along the ARR coastline may be established using catchment-specific elemental signatures. If the incidence of problem crocodiles can be reduced in settled or recreational areas by effective management at their source, then public safety concerns about these predators may be moderated, as well as the cost of their capture and removal. Copyright © 2002 Elsevier Science B.V.

The role of core protest group members in sustaining protest against controversial construction and engineering projects

Community-based protests against major construction and engineering projects are becoming increasingly common as concerns over issues such as corporate social accountability, climate change and corruption become more prominent in the public's mind. Public perceptions of risk associated with these projects can have a contagious effect, which mismanaged can escalate into long-term and sometimes acrimonious protest stand-offs that have negative implications for the community, firms involved and the construction industry as a whole. This paper investigates the role of core group members in sustaining community-based protest against construction and engineering projects. Using a thematic story telling approach which draws on ethnographic method and social contagion theories, it presents an in-depth analysis of a single case study - one of Australia's longest standing community protests against a construction project. It concludes that core group members play a critical role, within anarchic structures which provide a high degree of spontaneity and improvisation, in sustaining movement continuity by building collective identity, mobilising resources and a moving interface which developers find hard to communicate with.